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post #29611 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
This is the only thing holding me off from buying a pair of PC2000 (or possibly 1 PB2000 and 1 PC2000) vs a “probably” much more expensive PB3000 pair or PC4000 pair or single.

I will have NAD 758 and DIRAC-is the app control over the sub (which the 2000 series is missing) that much better or more convenient then what can be done through the AVR or room correction software on the fly? I believe DIRAC or the NAD has a phone app...I’m wondering if the price savings will be worth it with no sub management app or as some people say-they set it a few times then mostly forget it...
If you are getting Dirac then that is already the best room correction you can get so you probably won't need the sub's built in eq.
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post #29612 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 10:33 AM
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Morning fellas. My replacement amp for my brand new PB4000 is "out for delivery" via Fedex. Gotta say SVS is great as far as customer service and Jack from SVS took care of me and apologized for the amp issue with my new PB4000. Hope all goes well with the install. Just wanted to ask a quick question. I opted to go with the sound isolation system and bought 12 of the "rubber feet". I have 20" travertine tiles for my floor in my 4500^Foot living room. I have heard that these de-coupling feet help to reduce unwanted vibrations but do I really need them with the floor material that I have? 140$ is a lot of money to spend if they really will not help with my situation.
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post #29613 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Islandborn View Post
Morning fellas. My replacement amp for my brand new PB4000 is "out for delivery" via Fedex. Gotta say SVS is great as far as customer service and Jack from SVS took care of me and apologized for the amp issue with my new PB4000. Hope all goes well with the install. Just wanted to ask a quick question. I opted to go with the sound isolation system and bought 12 of the "rubber feet". I have 20" travertine tiles for my floor in my 4500^Foot living room. I have heard that these de-coupling feet help to reduce unwanted vibrations but do I really need them with the floor material that I have? 140$ is a lot of money to spend if they really will not help with my situation.

Hi,

I'm glad that things went painlessly. Jack is a nice guy, as all of the SVS folks are, from my experience. To be honest, the sound isolation feet will not do anything in your situation. A suspended wood floor transmits vibrations to other things inside the room, and to the surrounding walls. Decoupling a sub with some sort of rubber feet/carpet pad, etc. can sometimes help to reduce the transferred vibrations slightly. On a surface such as concrete, or carpet, tile, or wood, over concrete, there won't be any issue with transferred vibrations to begin with.

The only thing you might want to watch for is whether your subwoofers slide a little on the tiles (which sound nice by the way). Sometimes, when a subwoofer is going full-steam, it can move a little on a slick surface. If it does, putting something like a rubber carpet pad, from Home Depot, under the sub will prevent that. That should save you about $135.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29614 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I'm glad that things went painlessly. Jack is a nice guy, as all of the SVS folks are, from my experience. To be honest, the sound isolation feet will not do anything in your situation. A suspended wood floor transmits vibrations to other things inside the room, and to the surrounding walls. Decoupling a sub with some sort of rubber feet/carpet pad, etc. can sometimes help to reduce the transferred vibrations slightly. On a surface such as concrete, or carpet, tile, or wood, over concrete, there won't be any issue with transferred vibrations to begin with.

The only thing you might want to watch for is whether your subwoofers slide a little on the tiles (which sound nice by the way). Sometimes, when a subwoofer is going full-steam, it can move a little on a slick surface. If it does, putting something like a rubber carpet pad, from Home Depot, under the sub will prevent that. That should save you about $135.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks for the great informative reply as always Mike! Got the amp installed. second sub works now and sounds awesome! Dual PB 4000's rock! I still need to rerun audyssey with the new subs. I think the 4000's will sound awesome once I dial them in. Still am thinking about the 16 Ultras but still don't know if an added 1200$ is worth the +3-4 dB

Still going to enjoy it for my 45 days and then decide. I understand about the isolation feet and my tile floors. I do like the added elevation with the new sound isolation feet as the stock rubber feet really keep the sub low to the floor. I read other threads and people did say that the sound isolation feet helped them even on tile/concrete floor as they stated there still is some sound transference and vibration even through concrete. It's probably more placebo then anything but oh well, I got them on now. Happy thanks giving fellas!
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post #29615 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
You could try something along the lines of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Apoxie-Sculpt...ds=black+epoxy

In deed, it might work, but will require so finest and patience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atx2014 View Post
My sb2000 high gloss piano black finish has some serious damage on the surface at a corner. see attached picture. The black layer peeled off and the wood inside is exposed. Is there any simple way (i'm not very hands on) to somehow fix it? I don't mean to fix it professionally, just somehow to cover it up and make it look less ugly. What's the black material on the surface outside the wood case? I think I need to fill it first then do some painting. Thanks guys.
This is some serious damage

My guess it was done after sales, since you are not mentioning done through shipping, and exchanging-it.
The product mention by Jonas2 in the quote above yours, might work to redo the cabinet, but will require some patience to apply this product. And hopefully it can be sand when cure, like wood filler, that said wood filler would also also require lot of patience and may not adhere as good. Just need to look before buying, if the description mention that-it can be sand.
Quick edit; It can be sand

For re-doing the finish, maybe someone on these threads can help;
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/
I remember a few years ago, a thread that was discussing on how to do a piano gloss finish.

Best of luck


Ray
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post #29616 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 05:42 PM
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Question about dual subwoofer and the app.

How does the app work if you have dual subwoofers? Are both subwoofers listed on the app and you just pick one at a time?
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post #29617 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Twiceborn View Post
Question about dual subwoofer and the app.

How does the app work if you have dual subwoofers? Are both subwoofers listed on the app and you just pick one at a time?
Yes and yes...and you have the flexibility to change their default designations/names to your liking.
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post #29618 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
On the 1500D, the line-out is a loop-back of the line-in. There is no DSP applied to the line-out, so you can use it to daisy-chain if that is convenient.

If this is an AV application, you only need one (1) RCA cable from the AVR to the first subwoofer - there is no need to use two cables. Just connect to LFE in on subwoofer #1 and then daisy-chain from the line-out to LFE in on subwoofer #2 .
Much appreciated. Thanks Ed!
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post #29619 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 08:17 PM
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I just got a pair of PB-4000 delivered today, It took a bit to muscle them into position but I could not be happier with the initial performance. I did some quick comparison from my old Polkaudio PW505 and my 18yr old Optimus Pro PW200, The ability to go deeper in the Hz range was obvious while playing U-571. Playing Music was very nice, even at lower volume you can feel the sonic pressure of the bass hitting harder. My Family room is 15' by 25', moving around the room you get no loss of the fullness of the subs, a matter of fact the further away was better as you lose the localization of the placement of each sub.
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post #29620 of 31234 Old 11-16-2018, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by recoveryone View Post
I just got a pair of PB-4000 delivered today, It took a bit to muscle them into position but I could not be happier with the initial performance. I did some quick comparison from my old Polkaudio PW505 and my 18yr old Optimus Pro PW200, The ability to go deeper in the Hz range was obvious while playing U-571. Playing Music was very nice, even at lower volume you can feel the sonic pressure of the bass hitting harder. My Family room is 15' by 25', moving around the room you get no loss of the fullness of the subs, a matter of fact the further away was better as you lose the localization of the placement of each sub.
First congratulation, on your new subs, and I am sure you will enjoy them

If you don't mind, I like to offer a suggestion. Moving your right sub, where the media rack is, and moving that one where the sub was (switching the right sub, with the media rack positions). would give you a better Right and Left sound stage, for your main speakers.

That said, your bass sound will more likely change. It might be for the better or worst, or might still sound the same to you. Only trying this will tell, and since it is a simple change. It should be done fairly fast, even with the weight of those beasts, if you do not like how it sound, changing it back, should also be fast


Ray
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post #29621 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiceborn View Post
Question about dual subwoofer and the app.

How does the app work if you have dual subwoofers? Are both subwoofers listed on the app and you just pick one at a time?
I was considering getting a PC2000 along with a PB3000 so I’ll have some app control-will I be able to match the speakers easier since they are not the same series if I do it from the app since only the 3000 series will have app control? How would I go about doing this since one speaker is app control and one don’t and what is the main things that need to change if one subwoofer is from a stronger lineup (even if similar specs)

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post #29622 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I was considering getting a PC2000 along with a PB3000 so I’ll have some app control-will I be able to match the speakers easier since they are not the same series if I do it from the app since only the 3000 series will have app control? How would I go about doing this since one speaker is app control and one don’t and what is the main things that need to change if one subwoofer is from a stronger lineup (even if similar specs)
will I be able to match the speakers easier since they are not the same series if I do it from the app since only the 3000 series will have app control?

Why would matching them be easier if they're NOT from the same series?

How would I go about doing this since one speaker is app control and one don’t and what is the main things that need to change if one subwoofer is from a stronger lineup (even if similar specs)

Put the weaker sub nearfield and the stronger sub further away. You'll still need to do some tweaking to get the same SPL from both subs at your listening position.

I'd personally get two of the same model. Either 2 PC2000's or 2 PB3000's.
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post #29623 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gene4ht View Post
Yes and yes...and you have the flexibility to change their default designations/names to your liking.
Wish you could alter both subs are the same time. For example, let's say you have duals and you want to increase the volume, you're going to want to increase both equally and the fact that you have to do them one at a time with the app makes this a little tedious. I hope SVS implements an update so that multiple subs can be controlled at once, if this is possible.

@Ed Mullen is this possible?

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post #29624 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 08:12 AM
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Wish you could alter both subs are the same time. For example, let's say you have duals and you want to increase the volume, you're going to want to increase both equally and the fact that you have to do them one at a time with the app makes this a little tedious. I hope SVS implements an update so that multiple subs can be controlled at once, if this is possible.

@Ed Mullen is this possible?
Not currently possible - but it's a common request and it's on the list for a possible/potential future update. Typical/common BLE protocol is one smart phone connected to one AV device at a time (just like your phone and infotainment system in your car). The software programming engineers think it can be done, but no idea if/when that will become a reality.

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post #29625 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post

If you don't mind, I like to offer a suggestion. Moving your right sub, where the media rack is, and moving that one where the sub was (switching the right sub, with the media rack positions). would give you a better Right and Left sound stage, for your main speakers.

That said, your bass sound will more likely change. It might be for the better or worst, or might still sound the same to you. Only trying this will tell, and since it is a simple change. It should be done fairly fast, even with the weight of those beasts, if you do not like how it sound, changing it back, should also be fast


Ray

I may have to look at that option, due to the lower level in the Hz range, the window next to the left sub was vibrating to the point I had to turn my system down from -24 to -32. I then did some adjustments on the subs themselves. Its nice to have that extra power when needed, even at lower volume. The current placement was tested to keep the sound within the room as I have 2 openings on the right side (entry way from front door & Kitchen 7' away along the same wall.


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post #29626 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Not currently possible - but it's a common request and it's on the list for a possible/potential future update. Typical/common BLE protocol is one smart phone connected to one AV device at a time (just like your phone and infotainment system in your car). The software programming engineers think it can be done, but no idea if/when that will become a reality.

Ed's response is typical of why SVS is a leader among a minority of manufacturers today who provide prompt communication, responsiveness, as well as complete transparency. It would be great if all enterprises would emulate and implement this behavior in their cultures.

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post #29627 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 10:58 AM
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Transpancy

I also appreciate SVS's openness on so many issues. However, they need to be transparent about all the amplifier failures. Lot's of reported failures but no comments from Ed or anyone else from SVS on this important matter.
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post #29628 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by recoveryone View Post
I may have to look at that option, due to the lower level in the Hz range, the window next to the left sub was vibrating to the point I had to turn my system down from -24 to -32. I then did some adjustments on the subs themselves. Its nice to have that extra power when needed, even at lower volume. The current placement was tested to keep the sound within the room as I have 2 openings on the right side (entry way from front door & Kitchen 7' away along the same wall.
Do not worry about that, for the placement of your subs.
When it come to subs, they will try to fill all open area, not just your listening area
Unlike speakers, that only care of there physical locations, to the MLP.


Ray

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post #29629 of 31234 Old 11-17-2018, 07:02 PM
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I recently took delivery of 2 SB16 subs. I also picked up a new Marantz AV8805. Set everything up and ran Audyssey. One of my subs doesn't always turn on no matter the volume and will turn off even with steady loud bass. I was listening to a blu-ray concert at a high volume and the sub turned off. I know there was plenty of bass so it shouldn't have thought there was no input. Anyone else have this issue with a sub shutting off? I know the auto on has been an issue for people. Thanks.
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post #29630 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 02:00 AM
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I recently took delivery of 2 SB16 subs. I also picked up a new Marantz AV8805. Set everything up and ran Audyssey. One of my subs doesn't always turn on no matter the volume and will turn off even with steady loud bass. I was listening to a blu-ray concert at a high volume and the sub turned off. I know there was plenty of bass so it shouldn't have thought there was no input. Anyone else have this issue with a sub shutting off? I know the auto on has been an issue for people. Thanks.
I did have a slight bit of trouble with Auto-on with my PB-16's at first, but found it was the manner in which I calibrated them in Audyssey. The first run with Audyssey I started with the subs too quiet, and worked up on the calibration from the bottom.

My second Audyssey attempt I did the opposite, coming "down" on the calibration from the top and the auto-on problem absolutely disappeared! My completely uneducated guess is that the signal voltage coming from the AVR is sufficiently increased doing it this way.

As far as the subs shutting off in the middle of a song or movie? No, can't say I've experienced that.

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post #29631 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 03:54 AM
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Shutting off during loud scene = faulty amp.

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post #29632 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 06:20 AM
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Shutting off during loud scene = faulty amp.
I guess I'll reach out to SVS. I'll be bummed if that's the case. It will be a pain in the butt for me to get at the sub...
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post #29633 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
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Shutting off during loud scene = faulty amp.

Agree, most likely a faulty amp.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chokurei View Post
I guess I'll reach out to SVS. I'll be bummed if that's the case. It will be a pain in the butt for me to get at the sub...

But just in case, switch the connections on the Marantz with the other sub (I'm assuming you're using individual outputs to each sub?) and make sure the behavior doesn't chase the output. I doubt it will, but if it's easy to check, I'd do it.

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post #29634 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 08:04 AM
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Agree, most likely a faulty amp.





But just in case, switch the connections on the Marantz with the other sub (I'm assuming you're using individual outputs to each sub?) and make sure the behavior doesn't chase the output. I doubt it will, but if it's easy to check, I'd do it.
I did a little more digging. I turned on system. the one sub turned on, the other still didn't. I turned it on with phone app, felt the woofer to see if it was moving - nothing! I'll switch inputs on marantz to make sure, but the other day when I was leveling the subs both were working...
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post #29635 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chokurei View Post
I did a little more digging. I turned on system. the one sub turned on, the other still didn't. I turned it on with phone app, felt the woofer to see if it was moving - nothing! I'll switch inputs on marantz to make sure, but the other day when I was leveling the subs both were working...

Don't worry though, SVS will take care of you in fast order. They actually answer their phones on Sundays too if I remember correctly!

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #29636 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chokurei View Post
I did a little more digging. I turned on system. the one sub turned on, the other still didn't. I turned it on with phone app, felt the woofer to see if it was moving - nothing! I'll switch inputs on marantz to make sure, but the other day when I was leveling the subs both were working...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Don't worry though, SVS will take care of you in fast order. They actually answer their phones on Sundays too if I remember correctly!
Yup. I've called on a Sunday, just be aware that the hours are quite limited: 12PM-4PM Sunday in their time zone.

Regards, Ken (Retired)
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post #29637 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post

But just in case, switch the connections on the Marantz with the other sub (I'm assuming you're using individual outputs to each sub?) and make sure the behavior doesn't chase the output. I doubt it will, but if it's easy to check, I'd do it.
I switched the connections at the Marantz, both subs are working now! Could the amp work intermittently? Could shutting it down completely and restarting it, "re-set" the amp? I guess I''ll turn everything off, and let the subs go into standby and see what happens when I turn it all back on.
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post #29638 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chokurei View Post
I switched the connections at the Marantz, both subs are working now! Could the amp work intermittently? Could shutting it down completely and restarting it, "re-set" the amp? I guess I''ll turn everything off, and let the subs go into standby and see what happens when I turn it all back on.

It could absolutely be intermittent. WHICH SUCKS. So, you'll need to play with the system a bit and see how things go, like you said. Possible that what you did "jogged" something, but if it worked right away like that, I doubt it is the Marantz, and the problem is in the sub. Keep us posted!

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #29639 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
The answer to that question is more complicated than it sounds, because DEQ adds bass to more than just the subwoofers. And, the amount of bass that it adds to the subwoofers is variable, ranging from about +1.1db at 70Hz, and above, to +2.2db at 30Hz and below, for every -5 MV from Reference. So, at -5 MV, DEQ is adding about 3.3db to all of the channels, and a variable amount to the subwoofers, increasing to approximately +6.6db at 30Hz and below. But, of course, there isn't always content below 30Hz--especially with most music and many TV shows.

As stated in my earlier post, at your typical listening level, I would start by adding about 5 or 6db of subwoofer boost, and I might also experiment with adding a few decibels of bass boost to the two front speakers, with the tone control, once you turn off DEQ. But, ultimately, your own preferences need to dictate what you do, and those preferences may change slightly depending on the listening material, including how much deep bass it has. I think that most people would probably add much more bass boost for 5.1 movies, than they would for music.

I would seriously recommend reading the article on DEQ, to understand more about how it works and what it is doing. That will help you to better understand what you are hearing, and also to better understand methods that you might like to use to change what you are hearing. This is a direct link to the section on DEQ:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...rences.html#VA

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike,

Sounds like a math problem. Will have a look at the article on DEQ and see how we go. On a side note using the cascading set up without experimenting with DEQ off yet I watched Transformers 2 and the last 30 min was insane. Nice and deep and clean. Thanks as always.
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post #29640 of 31234 Old 11-18-2018, 11:36 AM
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Sup fellas. Finally after swapping out the bad amp on one of my new PB4000's and running Audyssey x32 the other night (it literally took me 3 hours to dial in the subs to my preference and what audyssey wants to set-Did this all at 1AM when kids were asleep and all external power/noise turned off btw )

Anyways, finally got to enjoy my sytem last night and watched Jurassic Park. What a difference these dual PB 4000's do for my system! Gobs of power even in my 4500 CF living room. I have one sub on back left wall and right sub positioned in the middle of my right wall. My living room is large open floor plan to the kitchen so this is the best I got to work with.

I had to set both subs to -14 to get Audyssey/Denon avr to set their trims at -11 and -11.5. I boosted them about 6 db in my AVR. Sound is large and base hits hard! Little boomy if I crank it to reference but I usually watch at about -10. Before bed, I of course had to play the infamous EOT opening scene and holy hell!!, I didn't know my house had that many rattles? My wife ran downstairs and was like WTF??? Anyways, pretty happy with the PB4000's. I think these are great woofers and for most people pretty much all anyone would ever need.... Happy thanksgiving fellas!

Last edited by Islandborn; 11-18-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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