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post #29671 of 31861 Old 11-20-2018, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuggles View Post
Pulled the trigger today and am excited to be adding a 2nd PB16 Ultra to my home theater this Christmas. I’ve been waiting for this moment for two years when they first introduced the PB16s as I got my first one for Christmas 2016. Life is good, much to be thankful for including the good folks on this forum that continue to educate and support us on our quest for home theater greatness.

Merry Christmas brother! A nice repeat if 2016. I think you will like what a second sub brings to the game. Be sure to keep us posted on this.
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post #29672 of 31861 Old 11-20-2018, 09:17 AM
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I'm expecting the 3000-series will be rather (for me that is) expensive here in The Netherlands. But, natural born optimistic as I am, maybe the price of the 2000-series will drop a bit by then. Probably wishful thinking though.

Would really love a PC-3000 (for the Bluetooth functionality mainly) but that one will be out of reach as well I guess.

So, for the time being I will just keep on watching all those double PB16-Ultra crates be delivered and installed and wiping some drool from the keyboard.



Hi,

I hope that you are able to get a PC3000! I haven't ever used the smartphone app on my subs, but just having the remote is a big plus in my opinion. If the pricing on the SVS subs you are interested in is just too high, you might want to look at XTZ subwoofers, which are made in Sweden. In Europe, prices on those subwoofers should be pretty reasonable. There are three models with which I am familiar, and the top-of-the-line 3X12 would compare very favorably with the PB4000 from a performance standpoint. In fact, it would actually have a good deal more output below ~14Hz, and above ~ 20Hz. Those are very good subwoofers, although they don't have as many high-tech features as the newer model SVS subs.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29673 of 31861 Old 11-20-2018, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by vpn75 View Post
I'm tempted by the PB12-NSD deal. I currently have an Outlaw LFM-Plus sub that has served me well but I've been thinking of moving to dual-subs now that I've moved into a single-family home with a basement HT setup. Would the PB12 pair well with the Outlaw or should I hold off until I can get two of the same type subs?

Hi,

Looking at the specs on the Outlaw sub, I can't see any reason why the two subs couldn't work together. You could certainly buy a PB12, on a trial basis, to see what you think. And, nothing would prevent you from later upgrading your Outlaw to a second SVS sub. That could be another PB12-NSD, or it could be a PB2000. The PB2000 would be more powerful than the PB12, but the tuning point should be about the same.

As noted a page or so back, you may be able to pair two ported subs with different outputs, as long as the port tune is fairly close--say within ~3Hz or so. When one subwoofer is more powerful than another, you would just want to position the more powerful sub further away, and the less powerful one closer to your listening position. Indoors, each doubling in distance is about a 3db reduction in volume (6db outdoors). So, long-term, you might be starting with your Outlaw and a PB12 paired, and eventually moving to a PB12 and a PB2000 paired. Or, even to dual PB2000's. SVS's upgrade path is one of the real strengths of the company.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29674 of 31861 Old 11-20-2018, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Looking at the specs on the Outlaw sub, I can't see any reason why the two subs couldn't work together. You could certainly buy a PB12, on a trial basis, to see what you think. And, nothing would prevent you from later upgrading your Outlaw to a second SVS sub. That could be another PB12-NSD, or it could be a PB2000. The PB2000 would be more powerful than the PB12, but the tuning point should be about the same.

As noted a page or so back, you may be able to pair two ported subs with different outputs, as long as the port tune is fairly close--say within ~3Hz or so. When one subwoofer is more powerful than another, you would just want to position the more powerful sub further away, and the less powerful one closer to your listening position. Indoors, each doubling in distance is about a 3db reduction in volume (6db outdoors). So, long-term, you might be starting with your Outlaw and a PB12 paired, and eventually moving to a PB12 and a PB2000 paired. Or, even to dual PB2000's. SVS's upgrade path is one of the real strengths of the company.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks, I decided to pull the trigger on the PB12 to pair with my Outlaw sub. I was thinking of swapping out the LFM1-Plus with the SVS and moving the Outlaw more nearfield as I think it is less powerful. I currently have it in configuration with 1 port plugged providing extension down to about 19Hz I believe. Should I keep it in this configuration or remove the plug for added response at the higher frequencies to work best with the PB12.

In any event, I plan to run Audyssey Sub EQ HT on my Denon X440H for proper room correction which will hopefully give me good results.
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post #29675 of 31861 Old 11-21-2018, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
If the pricing on the SVS subs you are interested in is just too high, you might want to look at XTZ subwoofers, which are made in Sweden. In Europe, prices on those subwoofers should be pretty reasonable. There are three models with which I am familiar, and the top-of-the-line 3X12 would compare very favorably with the PB4000 from a performance standpoint.

Regards,
Mike
If one is barely able to get a PC2000, the 3x12 is a little bit above budget (over twice the price) ;-) Don't know how the 1x12 compares to a PB/PC2000 though, I would assume around equal. If so, would still prefer the PC2000 due to positioning restraints.

Do appreciate the advice though!
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post #29676 of 31861 Old 11-21-2018, 05:52 PM
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I finally was able to spent some time diving into REW (Room EQ Wizard) and made a video sharing some side by side comparisons between the Power Sound Audio S3611 and SVS PB16 Ultra using REW measurements. Enjoy and Happy Thanksgiving!
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post #29677 of 31861 Old 11-21-2018, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuggles View Post
Pulled the trigger today and am excited to be adding a 2nd PB16 Ultra to my home theater this Christmas. I’ve been waiting for this moment for two years when they first introduced the PB16s as I got my first one for Christmas 2016. Life is good, much to be thankful for including the good folks on this forum that continue to educate and support us on our quest for home theater greatness.

And special shout out to the amazing folks at SVS (Scott Miller is the shiznit) who truly understand that a company’s customer service is as important as the products they sell.

Happy Thanksgiving to all my fellow AVS Forum Addicts,

Nathan
Life is indeed good, and even better for those who have patience to wait
I see you took the patience way, to do-it over time, instead of rushing into buying two lesser subs. This is where, it will pay off for you

Enjoy your new addition, and do not forget to post some pictures. since we like pictures around here.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 11-21-2018 at 07:24 PM.
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post #29678 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 02:54 PM
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I have a question-I have decided to go with bookshelf surrounds for my upcoming 5.1.4 setup except it appears that the bookshelf stands are only 2 feet high and with the height of the speaker it is only about 3 feet high total. My eat height is about 48 inches at MLP so for the speaker to be as high or higher I need to prop it up. My options are putting the stand and speaker (monitor audio gold 50) on top of a sub or duel ported sub (probably a SVS PB2000) or else build something it can go on considering WAF.

Does anyone have any ideas or history of this and would putting a bookshelf and stand be ok on a ported subwoofer that can go pretty low frequency?

Thanks in advance

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post #29679 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have a question-I have decided to go with bookshelf surrounds for my upcoming 5.1.4 setup except it appears that the bookshelf stands are only 2 feet high and with the height of the speaker it is only about 3 feet high total. My eat height is about 48 inches at MLP so for the speaker to be as high or higher I need to prop it up. My options are putting the stand and speaker (monitor audio gold 50) on top of a sub or duel ported sub (probably a SVS PB2000) or else build something it can go on considering WAF.

Does anyone have any ideas or history of this and would putting a bookshelf and stand be ok on a ported subwoofer that can go pretty low frequency?

Thanks in advance

Hi,

Putting the speakers and stands on top of the subwoofers would be perfectly fine, although I would put something between the stands and the subwoofers to protect the finish of the sub. The only problem I foresee is that you might not (probably will not) want to have both of your subwoofers behind you in precisely those symmetrical locations.

You can certainly try that to see/hear how it works, but if I were you I would not rely on that solution. I would start looking for some taller stands to buy or build, so that you can put the subs wherever they really belong, from both a frequency response standpoint, and a bass localization standpoint. You may not want to have all the bass sounds and tactile sensations coming from behind you, while most of the real action is occurring in front of you, where the screen is. That's what is meant by the term "bass localization".

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29680 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Putting the speakers and stands on top of the subwoofers would be perfectly fine, although I would put something between the stands and the subwoofers to protect the finish of the sub. The only problem I foresee is that you might not (probably will not) want to have both of your subwoofers behind you in precisely those symmetrical locations.

You can certainly try that to see/hear how it works, but if I were you I would not rely on that solution. I would start looking for some taller stands to buy or build, so that you can put the subs wherever they really belong, from both a frequency response standpoint, and a bass localization standpoint. You may not want to have all the bass sounds and tactile sensations coming from behind you, while most of the real action is occurring in front of you, where the screen is. That's what is meant by the term "bass localization".

Regards,
Mike
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have a question-I have decided to go with bookshelf surrounds for my upcoming 5.1.4 setup except it appears that the bookshelf stands are only 2 feet high and with the height of the speaker it is only about 3 feet high total. My eat height is about 48 inches at MLP so for the speaker to be as high or higher I need to prop it up. My options are putting the stand and speaker (monitor audio gold 50) on top of a sub or duel ported sub (probably a SVS PB2000) or else build something it can go on considering WAF.

Does anyone have any ideas or history of this and would putting a bookshelf and stand be ok on a ported subwoofer that can go pretty low frequency?

Thanks in advance
I agree with Mike, to put something in between the stand and the sub.
Something like these could work very well;
https://www.amazon.ca/Scotch-SP845-N...urniture&psc=1

Sometime, having perfect symmetry, is not the best option for subwoofers (I was lucky in my room, but may not work the best in other rooms). They are multiple site that offer custom made stand. while more expensive to get, it might be a good investment

A quick google search show a few site, here's one of them, that look well done;
https://www.gwizpro.com/stands/
Many option are available, from finish, size of the top plate/bottom plate, height of the stand, and even more quality expensive quality wood.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 11-24-2018 at 07:30 PM.
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post #29681 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have a question-I have decided to go with bookshelf surrounds for my upcoming 5.1.4 setup except it appears that the bookshelf stands are only 2 feet high and with the height of the speaker it is only about 3 feet high total. My eat height is about 48 inches at MLP so for the speaker to be as high or higher I need to prop it up. My options are putting the stand and speaker (monitor audio gold 50) on top of a sub or duel ported sub (probably a SVS PB2000) or else build something it can go on considering WAF.

Does anyone have any ideas or history of this and would putting a bookshelf and stand be ok on a ported subwoofer that can go pretty low frequency?

Thanks in advance

Hi,

Putting the speakers and stands on top of the subwoofers would be perfectly fine, although I would put something between the stands and the subwoofers to protect the finish of the sub. The only problem I foresee is that you might not (probably will not) want to have both of your subwoofers behind you in precisely those symmetrical locations.

You can certainly try that to see/hear how it works, but if I were you I would not rely on that solution. I would start looking for some taller stands to buy or build, so that you can put the subs wherever they really belong, from both a frequency response standpoint, and a bass localization standpoint. You may not want to have all the bass sounds and tactile sensations coming from behind you, while most of the real action is occurring in front of you, where the screen is. That's what is meant by the term "bass localization".

Regards,
Mike
I get how even though subs are omni directional, the single ones can be localized-but I was under the impression that with Duel subs it is even harder to localize-whether both subs are behind you or in front or whereever...is this not true?

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post #29682 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Putting the speakers and stands on top of the subwoofers would be perfectly fine, although I would put something between the stands and the subwoofers to protect the finish of the sub. The only problem I foresee is that you might not (probably will not) want to have both of your subwoofers behind you in precisely those symmetrical locations.

You can certainly try that to see/hear how it works, but if I were you I would not rely on that solution. I would start looking for some taller stands to buy or build, so that you can put the subs wherever they really belong, from both a frequency response standpoint, and a bass localization standpoint. You may not want to have all the bass sounds and tactile sensations coming from behind you, while most of the real action is occurring in front of you, where the screen is. That's what is meant by the term "bass localization".

Regards,
Mike
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I have a question-I have decided to go with bookshelf surrounds for my upcoming 5.1.4 setup except it appears that the bookshelf stands are only 2 feet high and with the height of the speaker it is only about 3 feet high total. My eat height is about 48 inches at MLP so for the speaker to be as high or higher I need to prop it up. My options are putting the stand and speaker (monitor audio gold 50) on top of a sub or duel ported sub (probably a SVS PB2000) or else build something it can go on considering WAF.

Does anyone have any ideas or history of this and would putting a bookshelf and stand be ok on a ported subwoofer that can go pretty low frequency?

Thanks in advance
I agree with Mike, to put something in between the stand and the sub.
Something like these could work very well;
https://www.amazon.ca/Scotch-SP845-N...urniture&psc=1

Sometime, having perfect symmetry, is not the best option for subwoofers (I was lucky in my room, but may not work the best in other rooms). They are multiple site that offer custom made stand. while more expensive to get, it might be a good investment[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

A quick google search show a few site, here's one of them, that look well done;
https://www.gwizpro.com/stands/
Many option are available, from finish, size of the top plate/bottom plate, height of the stand, and even more quality expensive quality wood.


Ray
Thank you for the suggestion Ray-I will check out the custom site for sure since I need ones that are sturdy and around 4 feet high and that doesn’t seem common..,

As for symmetry of subs-I notice 90% of the pics I see have the subs (and the front) symmetrical from the tv or media cabinet..,why should this change if subs are symmetrical from the back?

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post #29683 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Thank you for the suggestion Ray-I will check out the custom site for sure since I need ones that are sturdy and around 4 feet high and that doesn’t seem common..,

As for symmetry of subs-I notice 90% of the pics I see have the subs (and the front) symmetrical from the tv or media cabinet..,why should this change if subs are symmetrical from the back?

For the symmetry, subs can be very picky about position. If you look at my Theater tread, attach to my signature. Mine are very symmetrical for my front placement, and was lucky it work that way

Around here, we like to say Position, position, position, is the most important factor, when it come to sub/s sound quality and output for all frequencies. All is require, is a few experiment for the best positions for those very picky beast, to see what work best for you, or what it matter, any room.

For the stands, I recommended a widest base plate (for your room, accommodation) to make them future proof for kids and pets.

But nothing is totally full proof for them. Never had a problem with my Cats, but my Wife did knock down one of my surrounds, many years ago, with a 4 foot stand
The base was around 12-14 inches wide, just for info.
Thankfully, this was in my DIY days, made with excellent bracing and good quality component. The speaker survive just fine


Ray

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post #29684 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I get how even though subs are omni directional, the single ones can be localized-but I was under the impression that with Duel subs it is even harder to localize-whether both subs are behind you or in front or whereever...is this not true?

If both subwoofers are spread-out behind you, the bass sounds and tactile sensations will be more diffused than they would be if they were all coming from a single location. But, depending on the relative sensitivity of the individual, it may still be very easy to tell that the general direction that bass sounds and TR are coming from is not from the front of the room, where most of the action is occurring. Perhaps I am more sensitive to those things than most, but it would be very easy for me to tell, and I would not like that at all. YMMV!

The other factor is that you may prefer a different location for one or both of the subwoofers in order to improve your overall frequency response. It can be difficult to predict in advance where the subwoofers will sound the best. I would not absolutely rule-out putting both of the subs behind you, but I would prepare an alternative plan for taller stands, in case those locations don't work well for you.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #29685 of 31861 Old 11-24-2018, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Thank you for the suggestion Ray-I will check out the custom site for sure since I need ones that are sturdy and around 4 feet high and that doesn’t seem common..,

As for symmetry of subs-I notice 90% of the pics I see have the subs (and the front) symmetrical from the tv or media cabinet..,why should this change if subs are symmetrical from the back?
I guess I'm not too sensitive to bass direction/localization, because I have no problem with my F12

Watched ZERO DARK THIRTY last night and enjoyed some good bass, lots of action and the sound seemed to be coming from the correct direction

As has been said by others, you can try any location and find what works for you.

{Added} A while back someone had suggested I turn my sub 90° so I finally did it and immediately put it back as shown. Tactile experience dropped off as well as loudness. Their experience differed from mine
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post #29686 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 02:38 AM
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Hi

I'm new to the audio Hi-fi realms and recently was gifted the SB2000 sub but I'm not sure how to best connect it to my current PC set-up.

I have the Audioengine A5 bookshelf speakers and a Creative Soundblaster ZxR sound card.

One thing that concerned me is whether I had to buy an additional amp/pre-amp/receiver since the SB2000s do not have speaker level input.

Could someone please assist?

Many thanks.
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post #29687 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 03:30 AM
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Hi

I'm new to the audio Hi-fi realms and recently was gifted the SB2000 sub but I'm not sure how to best connect it to my current PC set-up.

I have the Audioengine A5 bookshelf speakers and a Creative Soundblaster ZxR sound card.

One thing that concerned me is whether I had to buy an additional amp/pre-amp/receiver since the SB2000s do not have speaker level input.

Could someone please assist?

Many thanks.
Actually, since the Audioengine A5 are powered speakers, it should be pretty easy. Connect the inputs of the SB2000 to the Soundblaster instead of the A5. Connect the outputs of the SB2000 to the inputs of the A5. Adjust the volume of the subwoofer until it sounds right. The subwoofer will crossover at 80 Hz, playing everything below 80 Hz, while sending everything above to the A5.
A standard Stereo RCA cable, male both ends should be fine between the subwoofer and A5, not sure what the connection to the Soundblaster is, but one end of the cable will need to be male Stereo RCA, and the other end whatever the Soundblaster needs.

No separate amp or receiver needed.
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Last edited by drh3b; 11-25-2018 at 07:47 PM.
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post #29688 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
Thank you for the suggestion Ray-I will check out the custom site for sure since I need ones that are sturdy and around 4 feet high and that doesn’t seem common..,

As for symmetry of subs-I notice 90% of the pics I see have the subs (and the front) symmetrical from the tv or media cabinet..,why should this change if subs are symmetrical from the back?

For the symmetry, subs can be very picky about position. If you look at my Theater tread, attach to my signature. Mine are very symmetrical for my front placement, and was lucky it work that way[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Around here, we like to say Position, position, position, is the most important factor, when it come to sub/s sound quality and output for all frequencies. All is require, is a few experiment for the best positions for those very picky beast, to see what work best for you, or what it matter, any room.

For the stands, I recommended a widest base plate (for your room, accommodation) to make them future proof for kids and pets.

But nothing is totally full proof for them. Never had a problem with my Cats, but my Wife did knock down one of my surrounds, many years ago, with a 4 foot stand[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/eek.gif[/IMG]
The base was around 12-14 inches wide, just for info.
Thankfully, this was in my DIY days, made with excellent bracing and good quality component. The speaker survive just fine[IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]


Ray
I wonder if a base of a normal stand can be DIY modified to make wider or heavier or if anyone has experience securing it down to ground or close to the wall or something...

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post #29689 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 01:45 PM
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I wonder if a base of a normal stand can be DIY modified to make wider or heavier or if anyone has experience securing it down to ground or close to the wall or something...
I could certainly do it on my Sanos stands [Edit] with screw-in spike feet. I'd set the stand on a piece of 3/4" plywood and push down to mark the hole pattern [/Edit] , drill the holes then on the bottom side use a Forstner bit for head clearance of the appropriate sized bolt to screw into my stand's base. Probably round off the "base" edge with a router, or in a pinch use a file and a bit of hand work. Then spray paint it black if I needed to do such a support
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post #29690 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 04:08 PM
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post #29691 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 05:02 PM
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Hello all on svs forum. Looking to buy a pair of subs for a 2 channel system with Martin Logan Motion 40 speakers and a Rotel integrated for music and tv, movies, etc. my room is very large with very high ceilings as well, large volume. Trying to decide between the svs sb2000 or a pair of rel t9i. I know the larger ported woofer would woof more but want to keep size of box contained. The rels have the downward firing passive radiator, which can add to impact but the svs has much bigger woofers, I would imagine move more air. Looking for quality sound, don’t need head banging bass but also don’t want to have bass lost in large room. What do you guys think? Thanks. Ned.

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post #29692 of 31861 Old 11-25-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
I wonder if a base of a normal stand can be DIY modified to make wider or heavier or if anyone has experience securing it down to ground or close to the wall or something...

If your are handy with tools, why not

For securing the stand, a small strap attach to the stand and the wall, should work very well. Just like those that come with tall cabinet. That said, I would also secure the speaker to the stand, this way the stand, if knock down, will only go so far, and the speaker does not fall from the stand.

A few bolts, using a Tap and Dye tools, on the speaker and just a normal drill bit hole through the stand, would work, and allow you to have the speaker tight against the stand top plate.
An easier way, but less professional, would be putting some screws of the proper lenght, from the bottom of the top plate into the speakers. For this last one, I would put the speaker upside down, and also the stand, to try getting those screws tight, to the top plate, of the stand.

If doing any of those two options, to secure the speaker to the stand. Make sure you do not go too deep, and go through the cabinet. Most cabinet are made of either 1/2, 5/8 and some 3/4 inches MDF, your speaker specification should mention this. If not contact the Customer Service of that brand, to find out the thickness of your cabinet.


Ray

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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Actually, since the Audioengine A5 are powered speakers, it should be pretty easy. Connect the inputs of the SB2000 to the Soundblaster instead of the A5. Connect the outputs of the SB2000 to the inputs of the A5. Adjust the volume of the subwoofer until it sounds right. The subwoofer will crossover at 80 Hz, playing everything below 80 Hz, while sending everything above to the A5.
A standard Stereo RCA cable, male both ends should be fine between the subwoofer and A5, not sure what the connection to the Soundblaster is, but one end of the cable will need to be male Stereo RCA, and the other end whatever the Soundblaster needs.

No separate amp or receiver needed.

Wonderful explanation, thank you.
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post #29694 of 31861 Old 11-26-2018, 01:11 AM
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If your are handy with tools, why not


A few bolts, using a Tap and Dye tools, on the speaker and just a normal drill bit hole through the stand, would work, and allow you to have the speaker tight against the stand top plate.
An easier way, but less professional, would be putting some screws of the proper lenght, from the bottom of the top plate into the speakers. For this last one, I would put the speaker upside down, and also the stand, to try getting those screws tight, to the top plate, of the stand.

Ray
Don't drill. Just use sticky "earthquake" pads - https://www.shopandbox.com/item/view_item/445830

I used these pads and they stick on really, really well - been using them for over 2 years now. As silly as it sounds, they are made to prevent closets from tipping over in minor earthquakes. So if it can hold quakes, it can hold speakers. Oh and they leave no residue after removal (which you'll have to use a hair dryer to heat up a little).
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post #29695 of 31861 Old 11-26-2018, 07:14 AM
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Purchased 2 SB12-NSD subwoofers to be used with my stereo setup (mostly classical with a little jazz + Allman Bros.).

Over the last six months, I have come very close to purchasing subs from PSA, Rythmik, and, of course, SVS. When the SB-3000 emerged, I was really taken by it, but I want to wait until it has more owner experiences. The SB12-NSDs (at the current holiday pricing) will fill the gap for now and, who knows, maybe they will be all I need for the foreseeable future.
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post #29696 of 31861 Old 11-26-2018, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
Hello all on svs forum. Looking to buy a pair of subs for a 2 channel system with Martin Logan Motion 40 speakers and a Rotel integrated for music and tv, movies, etc. my room is very large with very high ceilings as well, large volume. Trying to decide between the svs sb2000 or a pair of rel t9i. I know the larger ported woofer would woof more but want to keep size of box contained. The rels have the downward firing passive radiator, which can add to impact but the svs has much bigger woofers, I would imagine move more air. Looking for quality sound, don’t need head banging bass but also don’t want to have bass lost in large room. What do you guys think? Thanks. Ned.
If your budget allows I would consider 2 SB2000 subs. I was in the same situation as you and wanted to keep the size down and also wanted to go sealed to eliminate port noise. I also didn't want a 120lb sub to move around. My room is 17" X 25" with a vaulted sealing so it is large also. I have a pair of SB2000's and they are great. Plenty of low bass and great detail for music, TV and movies. Can't believe how good these subs are given their size. If I am not confused a pair of Rel's will run you around $2500 with a pair of SB2000 depending on finish at around $1500. I have the gloss black and they look awesome and sound awesome too. You can audition the SVS subs for 45 days and if you don't like them you can return them and SVS pays shipping both ways. I can't imagine you will return them. Good luck.
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post #29697 of 31861 Old 11-26-2018, 08:01 AM
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Purchased 2 SB12-NSD subwoofers to be used with my stereo setup (mostly classical with a little jazz + Allman Bros.).

Over the last six months, I have come very close to purchasing subs from PSA, Rythmik, and, of course, SVS. When the SB-3000 emerged, I was really taken by it, but I want to wait until it has more owner experiences. The SB12-NSDs (at the current holiday pricing) will fill the gap for now and, who knows, maybe they will be all I need for the foreseeable future.
With what you listen to, and assuming you don't listen too loudly, I think you will be happy with them. I like my current Rythmiks better, but I have nothing bad to say about the SB12-NSD at their price point.
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post #29699 of 31861 Old 11-26-2018, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
Hello all on svs forum. Looking to buy a pair of subs for a 2 channel system with Martin Logan Motion 40 speakers and a Rotel integrated for music and tv, movies, etc. my room is very large with very high ceilings as well, large volume. Trying to decide between the svs sb2000 or a pair of rel t9i. I know the larger ported woofer would woof more but want to keep size of box contained. The rels have the downward firing passive radiator, which can add to impact but the svs has much bigger woofers, I would imagine move more air. Looking for quality sound, don’t need head banging bass but also don’t want to have bass lost in large room. What do you guys think? Thanks. Ned.

Hi Ned,

I think that helping other people select subwoofers can be very difficult, because we don't always have a common reference point. If someone already has subwoofers, and can tell me his room size, his normal listening level, and how much subwoofer boost he typically uses, I can usually combine that information with whatever he feels that his current subs are lacking, to make an intelligent recommendation. But, open-ended questions are the hardest to answer, in my opinion.

With that said, I don't think that the 10" REL subs with a 300 watt amp, would be a very good investment for the situation you are describing. My suggestion is that you try a pair of the new SB3000's. They are sealed subs, so the size would still be pretty compact, and the price would be much better than that of the dual REL's. But, the SB3000 would offer some output and technology advantages, compared to the SB2000's, that I think could be well worth the relatively slight cost difference.

Ed Mullen, of SVS, has commented on another thread about the surprising increase in mid-bass output from the 3000's, with their newly designed driver and voice coil. He said they really excelled in internal CEA-2010 testing, compared to the 2000 series subs. I think that trying two of those subwoofers would be well worth your while.

If they are exactly what you need, then you won't need to look any further. If they lack anything at all, you will have been able to establish a baseline that can be used to provide a more personally-tailored recommendation. And, you have done it with no financial risk, since they offer 45-day trials, with free return shipping. But, I really think that a pair of SB3000's might be an awfully good solution for what you have described.

Regards,
Mike
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