Originally Posted by dabdoub81
Amazing input here.
I would really appreciate if you could help me with these questions if it is possible .
If i am going to increase gain through SW itself, do I need to adjust the trim level on the av reciever? Like trying to reach -9 after calibration and then lower it to -4 or other number ?
Would it be okay keep the subwoofer gain at 3/4 all the time , wouldn't do any harm to the subwoofer?
Does room acoustic treatment help with subwoofer volume and quality ?
During calibration,when I put put the crossover on LFE the distance calibrated by yapo was 3 m which is more with 1 m than it is ... but when I did crossover at 160 hz the calibrated distance was 0.3 m ! What do you think that happened ? And which one do you advise ?
Sorry if this is too much but I followed alot of your input and it is always smart and respectful.
Appreciate any help .
Thank you .
Thank you very much for the compliment, and I'll be glad to try to help. Keeping the subwoofer gain at 3/4 should be fine. If you hear the subwoofer make any noises that you think it shouldn't, such as obvious distortion or port chuffing, then you can back-off a little. It's a good idea to keep your AVR trim level in negative numbers (somewhere in the -3 to -5 range should be good).
You can do that by starting with a lower number during the calibration process, or you can lower your trim level after the calibration if you want to. Remember that negative numbers are different from positive numbers. -4 is a larger number than -9, so as you get closer to 0, you are raising
the volume, not lowering it.
I don't understand your question about crossovers and the LFE setting. I assume that you are talking about a setting on your subwoofer. You can just leave it at LFE, as you really won't want your subwoofer trying to play higher frequencies than about 120Hz, anyway. That setting shouldn't have affected the distance that YPAO set. 3m is probably correct and you could manually set it back to that.
The distance setting is not an actual distance. The AVR is simply measuring the arrival time of the sound from the subwoofer. Due to the subwoofer's own internal processing, that sound will always take longer to arrive than the physical distance would indicate.
Room treatments can help with the higher bass frequencies played by our speakers, from about 120Hz up, and that can add clarity to the sound. It takes very thick bass traps, typically located in corners, to affect frequencies down to about 60 or 70Hz. Below those frequencies, even really thick bass traps will have little to no effect. Very low-frequencies will go right through concrete walls, much less through acoustic materials.
Just to put the Y-connector issue to bed again, for others who may be reading along, I will repeat that all the Y-connector does is to send an additional 6db from the AVR to the subwoofer to help turn-on the subwoofer from Auto mode. It doesn't actually add any extra output to the subwoofer. The subwoofer can only play as loudly as it can play, regardless of how strong the starting voltage from the AVR is. If your subwoofer turns on from Auto mode, when it should, then there is absolutely no
advantage to using a Y-connector into both subwoofer inputs.
Edit: Seeing the post just ahead of this one, you can experiment with the bass tone control if you want to. That will only affect the bass in your front speakers--not
your subwoofer. I would leave the other subwoofer adjustment at 0, and make volume changes with the trim level in the subwoofer configuration menu, and with the subwoofer's gain control.