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post #29731 of 31988 Old 11-28-2018, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Thank you very much for the compliment, and I'll be glad to try to help. Keeping the subwoofer gain at 3/4 should be fine. If you hear the subwoofer make any noises that you think it shouldn't, such as obvious distortion or port chuffing, then you can back-off a little. It's a good idea to keep your AVR trim level in negative numbers (somewhere in the -3 to -5 range should be good).

You can do that by starting with a lower number during the calibration process, or you can lower your trim level after the calibration if you want to. Remember that negative numbers are different from positive numbers. -4 is a larger number than -9, so as you get closer to 0, you are raising the volume, not lowering it.

I don't understand your question about crossovers and the LFE setting. I assume that you are talking about a setting on your subwoofer. You can just leave it at LFE, as you really won't want your subwoofer trying to play higher frequencies than about 120Hz, anyway. That setting shouldn't have affected the distance that YPAO set. 3m is probably correct and you could manually set it back to that.

The distance setting is not an actual distance. The AVR is simply measuring the arrival time of the sound from the subwoofer. Due to the subwoofer's own internal processing, that sound will always take longer to arrive than the physical distance would indicate.

Room treatments can help with the higher bass frequencies played by our speakers, from about 120Hz up, and that can add clarity to the sound. It takes very thick bass traps, typically located in corners, to affect frequencies down to about 60 or 70Hz. Below those frequencies, even really thick bass traps will have little to no effect. Very low-frequencies will go right through concrete walls, much less through acoustic materials.

Just to put the Y-connector issue to bed again, for others who may be reading along, I will repeat that all the Y-connector does is to send an additional 6db from the AVR to the subwoofer to help turn-on the subwoofer from Auto mode. It doesn't actually add any extra output to the subwoofer. The subwoofer can only play as loudly as it can play, regardless of how strong the starting voltage from the AVR is. If your subwoofer turns on from Auto mode, when it should, then there is absolutely no advantage to using a Y-connector into both subwoofer inputs.

Regards,
Mike


Edit: Seeing the post just ahead of this one, you can experiment with the bass tone control if you want to. That will only affect the bass in your front speakers--not your subwoofer. I would leave the other subwoofer adjustment at 0, and make volume changes with the trim level in the subwoofer configuration menu, and with the subwoofer's gain control.
It is only the truth , weeks ago I read most of your subwoofer guide thread and will try to finish it asap and it was full of information and knowledge... and I was only thinking that a person who took God knows how many days or even weeks or more to write this and waiting nothing in return is an amazing person who deserve at least a compliment which is definitly not enough ... thank you for your answers and thank to you almost all your explanations I already knew from your thread

I am thinking to do the method you mentioned at your thread that a member done to get more SW gain by trimming other speakers .

Again thank you and really appreciate your effort and time .
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post #29732 of 31988 Old 11-28-2018, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dabdoub81 View Post
It is only the truth , weeks ago I read most of your subwoofer guide thread and will try to finish it asap and it was full of information and knowledge... and I was only thinking that a person who took God knows how many days or even weeks or more to write this and waiting nothing in return is an amazing person who deserve at least a compliment which is definitly not enough ... thank you for your answers and thank to you almost all your explanations I already knew from your thread

I am thinking to do the method you mentioned at your thread that a member done to get more SW gain by trimming other speakers .

Again thank you and really appreciate your effort and time .

Also glad you have posted your compliment to Mike, and Thank you for doing so

Mike did spend lots of time writing this Guide, and keep adding new information, when it become available to him. And also answer so many questions, with very detail reply for the OP situation, on many different threads

This is the most detail guide, I ever seen for subwoofer set-up, and did learn a few things myself, after been in this Hobby for many years

The reason, some members around here, have this Guide link, on their Signature. And also became a Sticky, in the subwoofer Threads.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 11-28-2018 at 09:49 AM.
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post #29733 of 31988 Old 11-28-2018, 10:13 AM
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Dual SB12-NSD help

Hi everyone,


First post. I just replaced a single REL T7 (8" driver/10" passive) with two SB12-NSDs because the amp died after 5 years. I am a two channel guy and have a integrated amp with no bass management. I connected the subs with the pre-amp out and just do not understand how to set this up. The sound is very underwhelming. My previous subs (the REL and before that a HSU vtf10 mk2) crossovers were set at 45hz and the gains have always been set very low (never past the 9 o'clock range) so that it just barely filled in the background. My mains are Magnepan 1.6s.


I have spent countless days scouring Google, AVS and audiogon for set up tips. Nothing seems to work. Either they are bloated or not there. I tried them in each front corner and also staggering them front to rear. Honestly, with the last two subs I just threw them in the corner and they sounded good with minimum placement. It seems that I have to run one 180° out of phase to get some bass. My room is 15x22x7.5. dry-walled, in the basement with carpet and pad over concrete. Ceiling is not finished but is filled with Roxul. I do not have a door hung yet but have a 36" doorway at the back (probably acting like a port).



Does anyone know what each hash mark on the crossover represents? It shows 30 htz or 150 htz. The gains are set at 12 O'clock on both SB12s with the crossover around 9 o'clock (I think around 45-50 htz?) Phase is 180° on one and zero on the other.



I have a radio shack analog sound meter but all I have found is instructions using the pink noise generator that I do not have. Although, I do have a CD that will play a pink noise. Do I put both subs in the listening spot and do the crawl?



Any help would be appreciated before I send these back.
Thanks!
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post #29734 of 31988 Old 11-28-2018, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by photobyfriend View Post
Hi everyone,


First post. I just replaced a single REL T7 (8" driver/10" passive) with two SB12-NSDs because the amp died after 5 years. I am a two channel guy and have a integrated amp with no bass management. I connected the subs with the pre-amp out and just do not understand how to set this up. The sound is very underwhelming. My previous subs (the REL and before that a HSU vtf10 mk2) crossovers were set at 45hz and the gains have always been set very low (never past the 9 o'clock range) so that it just barely filled in the background. My mains are Magnepan 1.6s.


I have spent countless days scouring Google, AVS and audiogon for set up tips. Nothing seems to work. Either they are bloated or not there. I tried them in each front corner and also staggering them front to rear. Honestly, with the last two subs I just threw them in the corner and they sounded good with minimum placement. It seems that I have to run one 180° out of phase to get some bass. My room is 15x22x7.5. dry-walled, in the basement with carpet and pad over concrete. Ceiling is not finished but is filled with Roxul. I do not have a door hung yet but have a 36" doorway at the back (probably acting like a port).



Does anyone know what each hash mark on the crossover represents? It shows 30 htz or 150 htz. The gains are set at 12 O'clock on both SB12s with the crossover around 9 o'clock (I think around 45-50 htz?) Phase is 180° on one and zero on the other.



I have a radio shack analog sound meter but all I have found is instructions using the pink noise generator that I do not have. Although, I do have a CD that will play a pink noise. Do I put both subs in the listening spot and do the crawl?



Any help would be appreciated before I send these back.
Thanks!
Since sub for music is the same principle, as a multichannel system. You have to start with the basic, here a few.

-First find the best location for them. The crawl technic work well for many (you put the sub at your listening position, crawl on the floor around the room, to find where it sound louder).

-The gain on your subs, been a 9 o'clock, are very low. I would raise them to 11 o'clock.

-To adjust the phase on each sub, turn one On (after you put those subs at best location for your room), and the other Off.
Use your radio shack analog sound meter (also need test tone, if not available on your system, some CD are available on line, a quick google search should do), to find what phase setting play the louder, on that first sub. Then you do the same for the second sub with-it ON and the first one Off (one sub at the time). And record what level you get from those readings, for might need to be know later.

-Then using your radio shack analog sound meter again. Check the sound level with both subs On, to make sure you have no cancelation between them, if you do the overall volume will be lower than one sub On only.

-If having cancelation between the two subs. This is where it get complicated. Leave both subs On, and choose on sub to play with different phase setting's, until the overall level of bass goes-up.

Also having both subs at equidistance to your MLP (Main Listening Place), help a lot to reduce cancellation from the subs.
But all depending of your room, best placement.
This thread may help you understand, how sub work within different environment, and more a proper place to ask;
Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences

Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 11-28-2018 at 07:22 PM.
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post #29735 of 31988 Old 11-28-2018, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by trusaleen1 View Post
Thanks guys, all of this was really helpful. So I havent had a lot of time to play with the settings, I'll have more time later this week, but I ran YPAO again, and YPAO set the sub to -9.0 this time. So I raised it up to -5.0 on the AVR. Then I raised the gain on the subwoofer to about 2'oclock and played with the sub trim in the options menu and I left the bass tone alone at 0, I also tend to think that the bass tone wont effect the sub. It's much better now! Now its about finding that sweet spot and I plan to try the sub crawl as well. I'll keep you guys updated.
One other comment on this one....If your Yamaha receiver has ‘Extra Bass’ feature, ensure you disable it. I found with it on it was choking the ULF output.....confusing as that may seem. I deactivated it at the same time I adjusted those Bass Trim and Tone settings under ‘Options’ befor re-running YPAO.....night and day difference.

Before, I was turning my PB16 volume up to -5dB to get any significant output....which seemed really high considering most folks have their PB16 volume set between -10 and -15. I almost thought I had a faulty amp issue. After making those adjustments in the Yamaha, my PB16 is cranking with the sub’s volume set at -15.
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post #29736 of 31988 Old 11-29-2018, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Nuggles View Post
One other comment on this one....If your Yamaha receiver has ‘Extra Bass’ feature, ensure you disable it. I found with it on it was choking the ULF output.....confusing as that may seem. I deactivated it at the same time I adjusted those Bass Trim and Tone settings under ‘Options’ befor re-running YPAO.....night and day difference.

Before, I was turning my PB16 volume up to -5dB to get any significant output....which seemed really high considering most folks have their PB16 volume set between -10 and -15. I almost thought I had a faulty amp issue. After making those adjustments in the Yamaha, my PB16 is cranking with the sub’s volume set at -15.
Your latest settings in your Yamaha seem to be about equivalent to the settings I settled on with my Marantz. My PB16's are set at -9 and -14, respectively.

My normal movie listening volume is at -6MV. Disc cases can fall off my coffee table, and things can vibrate off my microwave in my kitchen.......2 rooms away.

Still lots of room to turn them up further, as you can see by my settings.
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post #29737 of 31988 Old 11-29-2018, 04:49 PM
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Cylinder Sub Question

I am curious about the down firing design in relation to adjacent furniture, is there a specific distance that the cylinder should be from furniture or any other item that could possibly hinder it's performance.

Specifically, I am looking at a corner placement and if you are looking at the cylinder sub in the right corner there will be a section of home theater seating to the left which are fabric recliners, this unit goes down to the floor. To the right side wall of the cylinder sub will be a fabric sofa that has 8 inch tall wood legs so this sofa is off the floor approximately that much. These two pieces of furniture are not that far apart at their front corners. Picture two rectangle pieces of fabric furniture positioned approximately 3 1/2 feet from the corner, now place this cylinder sub in there.

What happens to the sound waves as they project down, reflect off the floor and into the fabric recliners on the left and then go under the fabric sofa on the right? Also, because these two pieces of furniture are close together at the front corners, creating a cubby hole corner that this cylinder sub is in, will this hamper it's performance?

There are two cylinders in the SVS line currently, the PC-2000 would be fine but it is ported in the rear, could this possibly compound the issues stated above? The second sub is the PC-4000 which is much more than is needed for this room (1650 cf not sealed, 7 foot opening to approximately 6000 cf), but it is ported at the top and offers some onboard EQ adjustability. Would that design possibly offset this cubby hole corner placement surrounded by the fabric furniture?

Why cylinder and not box? It's a living room with one wall that is doors and windows, the remaining wall is custom built-ins which house the display and components, etc. There isn't much floor space and the two remaining walls are described above.
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post #29738 of 31988 Old 11-29-2018, 04:58 PM
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^^^

Unless your furniture is made of brick or concrete, the subwoofer won't even know it is there.
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post #29739 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 05:37 AM
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^^^

Unless your furniture is made of brick or concrete, the subwoofer won't even know it is there. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]
For corners then will the rear ported sub of the PC2000 be ok then vs the top firing of the 4000? Does it matter?

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post #29740 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 10:56 AM
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For corners then will the rear ported sub of the PC2000 be ok then vs the top firing of the 4000? Does it matter?
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the rule of thumb for rear/side ported subs is to keep the port away from the wall at least 1.5x the port's diameter.
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post #29741 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 01:53 PM
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For corners then will the rear ported sub of the PC2000 be ok then vs the top firing of the 4000? Does it matter?
For what it's worth I have one of my subs (SC8000) firing into the rear wall of my room from about 4". It actually made the sub and overall bass in the room much better.

I don't see an issue with the port firing into the wall even from 3 or 4 inches. SVS makes it easy to try and you won't know until you try.

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post #29742 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chirosamsung View Post
For corners then will the rear ported sub of the PC2000 be ok then vs the top firing of the 4000? Does it matter?
You can stuff a PC-2000 in a corner without issue and enough clearance for port. If you angle the port directly towards the corner even if pushed against the walls there will always be some space there given cylinder shape vs 90 deg corner. I did this when I had a PC-2000 and it was fine. SVS even told me it was enough clearance.
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post #29743 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dabdoub81 View Post
It is only the truth , weeks ago I read most of your subwoofer guide thread and will try to finish it asap and it was full of information and knowledge... and I was only thinking that a person who took God knows how many days or even weeks or more to write this and waiting nothing in return is an amazing person who deserve at least a compliment which is definitly not enough ... thank you for your answers and thank to you almost all your explanations I already knew from your thread

I am thinking to do the method you mentioned at your thread that a member done to get more SW gain by trimming other speakers .

Again thank you and really appreciate your effort and time .
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Also glad you have posted your compliment to Mike, and Thank you for doing so

Mike did spend lots of time writing this Guide, and keep adding new information, when it become available to him. And also answer so many questions, with very detail reply for the OP situation, on many different threads

This is the most detail guide, I ever seen for subwoofer set-up, and did learn a few things myself, after been in this Hobby for many years

The reason, some members around here, have this Guide link, on their Signature. And also became a Sticky, in the subwoofer Threads.


Ray

Thank you both very much for the kind words! I don't take posts like these for granted, and hearing them helps to make the work I have put into the Guide all the more worthwhile.

I have been out of town on business, and pretty well out-of-contact, since early Wednesday? morning (I'm almost too tired to even remember when I left ) or I would have responded sooner. Thanks again!

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 11-30-2018 at 06:54 PM.
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post #29744 of 31988 Old 11-30-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Thank you both very much for the kind words! I don't take posts like these for granted, and hearing them helps to make the work I have put into the Guide all the more worthwhile.

I have been out of town on business, and pretty well out-of-contact, since early Wednesday? morning (I'm almost too tired to even remember when I left ) or I would have responded sooner. Thanks again!

Regards,
Mike
Compliments more than well deserve

Not only for the amazing Guide you have created, but also for the numbers of response's. To various OP that do not realize how much time. You put into those with always, a very detail explanation

I did realize, you were out on another business trip, after not seeing any response from you on various threads.

Hope all went good!!!


Ray

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post #29745 of 31988 Old 12-01-2018, 12:52 AM
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Guys, what do I need to connect one of my Pb 2000's to the desktop? If I hook it up via the sub's line out, do I need an amp? Or can it connect straight to a soundcard?


I'd hook it up via my AVR, but subs can only be used in the main zone and I currently have a 5.2 surround sound system using it.
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Finally tested it.
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post #29747 of 31988 Old 12-01-2018, 02:17 PM
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Finally tested it.

And your impression are?
Congratulation on your new toy


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Well I finally decided on a woofer plan to go with my 5.1 system of ML Motion 40’s and the Motion 30 Center. Going with the new NAD 758 surround receiver, seems like a great piece for the money and a single svs sb3000, flying blind as it is too new to have been opined on. Does look great on paper. Was going to go with a pair of sb2000’s but decided to go with a bit more quality potentially as opposed to quantity. Have to wait a few weeks to get the bdi media cabinet so won’t be able to report back for a while. Not a an over the top bass freak so think the one woofer should do if not can always add a second later regards. Ned.
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post #29749 of 31988 Old 12-01-2018, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
Well I finally decided on a woofer plan to go with my 5.1 system of ML Motion 40’s and the Motion 30 Center. Going with the new NAD 758 surround receiver, seems like a great piece for the money and a single svs sb3000, flying blind as it is too new to have been opined on. Does look great on paper. Was going to go with a pair of sb2000’s but decided to go with a bit more quality potentially as opposed to quantity. Have to wait a few weeks to get the bdi media cabinet so won’t be able to report back for a while. Not a an over the top bass freak so think the one woofer should do if not can always add a second later regards. Ned.

Hi Ned

A very good way of thinking, to get a single better sub, instead of two lesser ones. While I am a fan of dual sub, and PB-2000 are also well regarded. I think you did the right decision to get a single SB-3000. It might be all you need, for your sound preference. If not, just adding another will be easy, when the budget recover.

Let us know how it sound with your Martin Logan, I bet it will sound very sweet.


Ray
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post #29750 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 12:13 AM
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The PB-1000 is a gem but I feel like it is too much power for the room I have it in. I barely use the volume on it and wonder if I’d be better off with any old sub. I listen to music only.
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Actually, since the Audioengine A5 are powered speakers, it should be pretty easy. Connect the inputs of the SB2000 to the Soundblaster instead of the A5. Connect the outputs of the SB2000 to the inputs of the A5. Adjust the volume of the subwoofer until it sounds right. The subwoofer will crossover at 80 Hz, playing everything below 80 Hz, while sending everything above to the A5.
A standard Stereo RCA cable, male both ends should be fine between the subwoofer and A5, not sure what the connection to the Soundblaster is, but one end of the cable will need to be male Stereo RCA, and the other end whatever the Soundblaster needs.

No separate amp or receiver needed.

Hey drh3b, was 80 Hz crossover an arbitrary number you chose (and from there, calibrate accordingly)? As the A5's are probably small (rather than mid-sized) bookshelf speakers, would a higher crossover be more appropriate with the SB2000s? i.e. 100Hz-120Hz? However, A5+ speakers are rated 1.5dB down at 50Hz, so going by what's mentioned by SVS, I'd set it around ~60Hz (which SVS classify is the crossover to set for 'Large' bookshelf speakers)? I'm not so sure how to judge.


Did a bit more searching and found frequency response of the A5's:
https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...-labs-measures
Appears they roll off from 100hz and down, and between 100-110 there's a slight decline, would I be right to suggest I should set the sb2000 x-over between approx 100 and 110hz?

Any way, just an observation since I've hooked up these is that right now the volume is set at or around the 9 o'clock mark - any more than that it overpowers the room - insane.

Last edited by itsdanny; 12-02-2018 at 01:37 AM.
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post #29752 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by itsdanny View Post
Hey drh3b, was 80 Hz crossover an arbitrary number you chose (and from there, calibrate accordingly)? As the A5's are probably small (rather than mid-sized) bookshelf speakers, would a higher crossover be more appropriate with the SB2000s? i.e. 100Hz-120Hz? However, A5+ speakers are rated 1.5dB down at 50Hz, so going by what's mentioned by SVS, I'd set it around ~60Hz (which SVS classify is the crossover to set for 'Large' bookshelf speakers)? I'm not so sure how to judge.


Did a bit more searching and found frequency response of the A5's:
https://www.soundandvision.com/conte...-labs-measures
Appears they roll off from 100hz and down, and between 100-110 there's a slight decline, would I be right to suggest I should set the sb2000 x-over between approx 100 and 110hz?

Any way, just an observation since I've hooked up these is that right now the volume is set at or around the 9 o'clock mark - any more than that it overpowers the room - insane.
When you hook it up like the way I suggested, the crossover to the A5 is automatically set at 80 Hz, and isn't adjustable. I just looked at the graph, and the -3db point is 57 Hz, so you should be fine. It looks like there is a small hump at 100 Hz and 1kHz, don't know how audible they'll be to you. It's possible that you can adjust the crossover control on the SVS, but that will only affect the subwoofer(low pass), not the A5, so you want that set at the 80 Hz, to match what is being sent to the A5*.

The 80 Hz crossover isn't arbitrary, it's where most people can't localize sound coming from the subwoofer.
The important thing is it should sound good to you, and with the components you have, just adjusting the subwoofer volume to taste should get you pretty good sound.

*Left that out of the original suggestion.
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Actually, since the Audioengine A5 are powered speakers, it should be pretty easy. Connect the inputs of the SB2000 to the Soundblaster instead of the A5. Connect the outputs of the SB2000 to the inputs of the A5. Adjust the volume of the subwoofer until it sounds right. The subwoofer will crossover at 80 Hz, playing everything below 80 Hz, while sending everything above to the A5.
A standard Stereo RCA cable, male both ends should be fine between the subwoofer and A5, not sure what the connection to the Soundblaster is, but one end of the cable will need to be male Stereo RCA, and the other end whatever the Soundblaster needs.

No separate amp or receiver needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
When you hook it up like the way I suggested, the crossover to the A5 is automatically set at 80 Hz, and isn't adjustable. I just looked at the graph, and the -3db point is 57 Hz, so you should be fine. It looks like there is a small hump at 100 Hz and 1kHz, don't know how audible they'll be to you. It's possible that you can adjust the crossover control on the SVS, but that will only affect the subwoofer(low pass), not the A5, so you want that set at the 80 Hz, to match what is being sent to the A5*.

The 80 Hz crossover isn't arbitrary, it's where most people can't localize sound coming from the subwoofer.
The important thing is it should sound good to you, and with the components you have, just adjusting the subwoofer volume to taste should get you pretty good sound.

*Left that out of the original suggestion.

That's wonderful, many thanks for the help.
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post #29754 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 05:02 PM
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Hi Ned

A very good way of thinking, to get a single better sub, instead of two lesser ones. While I am a fan of dual sub, and PB-2000 are also well regarded. I think you did the right decision to get a single SB-3000. It might be all you need, for your sound preference. If not, just adding another will be easy, when the budget recover.

Let us know how it sound with your Martin Logan, I bet it will sound very sweet.


Ray
Really looking forward to getting the system together. I’ve heard the Martin Login Motion 40’s a few times and really think they are a sleeper speaker system, quality way above their pay grade, really fast and detailed from 40hz all the way up. Amazing mid bass and midrange detail and of course the folded foil tweeter. If the svs blends well and gives me the bottom octave, the system should sound great. I don’t need volume much more than 90db anymore so the 40’s should be fine as far as volume output, much more interested in the quality and taking care of my ears, we only have two! Thanks. Regards. Ned.
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post #29755 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 05:33 PM
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Hello,
Anyone try out the new 3000's? Particularly the pb? Would love to hear any opinions on this new product!


Sincerely,

TCL/Roku 65" R615 4K TV, SVS Ultra 5.0 Tower Surround System, Onkyo TX-SR805 for LCR, Onkyo HTR 940 for Surrounds, Dual SVS PB-2000 Subwoofers, Sony UBP X700 4K Ultra Blu-ray Player
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post #29756 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 05:48 PM
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Was going to go with a pair of sb2000’s but decided to go with a bit more quality potentially as opposed to quantity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
I think you did the right decision to get a single SB-3000. It might be all you need, for your sound preference. If not, just adding another will be easy, when the budget recover.
+1
I too agree with your decision. The golden rule of thumb that satisfies most enthusiasts is to buy the most subwoofer one’s budget allows at any given time...even if it seems it’s more than you think you want/need. Invariably most seeking an upgrade path from there will add a second and even multiples of the original sub. This is how “chasing the rabbit” begins!
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post #29757 of 31988 Old 12-02-2018, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Carney View Post
The PB-1000 is a gem but I feel like it is too much power for the room I have it in. I barely use the volume on it and wonder if I’d be better off with any old sub. I listen to music only.

This the first time, I heard this one

Anyhow, the Golden rule when it come to a single, or multiple subs.
It is always better have too much sub/s, than not enough. That same rule also apply to power from an AVR, or a combination of an AVP with power amp/s. My suggestion would be keeping your PB-1000. Or perhaps if still able to exchange-it, for a different model. To try a SB-1000.

Since you only listen to music. You want to stay with a sub that do have a flat, frequencies response. Many older subs, did tend to boost some frequencies, to make them sound more impressive.


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 12-02-2018 at 06:36 PM.
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Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
Really looking forward to getting the system together. I’ve heard the Martin Login Motion 40’s a few times and really think they are a sleeper speaker system, quality way above their pay grade, really fast and detailed from 40hz all the way up. Amazing mid bass and midrange detail and of course the folded foil tweeter. If the svs blends well and gives me the bottom octave, the system should sound great. I don’t need volume much more than 90db anymore so the 40’s should be fine as far as volume output, much more interested in the quality and taking care of my ears, we only have two! Thanks. Regards. Ned.
For protecting our hears, I know what you mean. At work, I always wear double hearing protection. No matter if single or double is require. I want to enjoy my Audio hobby, as long as I can.

Wishing you the best, with the integration of your new sub, with your ML speakers.
For that type of volume requirement, your new SB-3000. Should play very nice, once the best place for-it, is found within your room. Not sure, if you are aware of this Guide for sub/s and speaker integration. So just in case here's a link;
Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
While it is a long read, and should be read at least twice. It is full of useful information.

All the best in your search, of a perfect sound.


Ray
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Last edited by darthray; 12-02-2018 at 07:27 PM.
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
For protecting our hears, I know what you mean. At work, I always wear double hearing protection. No matter if single or double is require. I want to enjoy my Audio hobby, as long as I can.

Wishing you the best, with the integration of your new sub, with your ML speakers.
For that type of volume requirement, your new SB-3000. Should play very nice, once the best place for-it, is found within your room. Not sure, if you are aware of this Guide for sub/s and speaker integration. So just in case here's a link;
Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
While it is a long read, and should be read at least twice. It is full of useful information.

All the best in your search, of a perfect sound.


Ray
After having ringing in my ears for two days after a Grateful Dead concert back in 1987 or so, I went out and got professional linear ear plugs fitted for my ears. Never, ever go to a concert or a movie without them. They most definitely helped to pause further ear deterioration through the years. Thanks again for the thoughts and link. Regards. Ned.
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
This the first time, I heard this one

Anyhow, the Golden rule when it come to a single, or multiple subs.
It is always better have too much sub/s, than not enough. That same rule also apply to power from an AVR, or a combination of an AVP with power amp/s. My suggestion would be keeping your PB-1000. Or perhaps if still able to exchange-it, for a different model. To try a SB-1000.

Since you only listen to music. You want to stay with a sub that do have a flat, frequencies response. Many older subs, did tend to boost some frequencies, to make them sound more impressive.


Ray
Yeah, but I’ve heard subs that are pretty good (Dayton, Elac, etc.) and which might work for my needs. I just use a sub for filling in my Xtonebox S7Ms, which go pretty low but with some music I need some a bit more bottom end. The PB-1000 is excellent for that. And I do like the control of an enclosed sub.
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