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post #10621 of 10805 Old 11-26-2017, 08:25 PM
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post #10622 of 10805 Old 11-26-2017, 08:28 PM
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Hi Mark,

Any news on a fix for slight noise/hum on the 6kw 240v amps yet? Also I sent off my old amps back to you last week. I tried to ring you all last week but no answer... I'm guessing your out of town lol. Hope to hear from you soon.

Cheers,
Kevin

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post #10623 of 10805 Old 11-27-2017, 08:52 AM
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Well, just rejoined the SubM club. At the price Mark is selling the SubM HP w/used amps at I couldn’t resist.

Plus the timing worked out. I need to send my sub amp on my main subs in for repair and this should allow me some bass while it’s getting repaired. Which is fantastic as I am about to have complete shoulder reconstruction surgery and am going to be sitting on my keister for a bit.

Once my main amp is back from SpeakerPower the SubM will be doing nearfield duties b hind my MLP with 4 x Mariana 18S’s far field. Should be a lot of fun.
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post #10624 of 10805 Old 11-27-2017, 09:20 AM
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Question for those with more than two locations for subs.

I have my front pair equidistant in the front corners and my rear pair equidistant in the rear corners and so far have been using the two subs outs on my Denon AVR-X7200WA for those two sets.

Adding in the SubM right behind my MLP, I’m thinking I need something like a MiniDSP so I can set distance/delay setting for theee locations now. Would the standard MiniDSP 2x4 work or do I need be 2x4HD or DDRM-2?

Whichever one you all advise to get, I am assuming I would just use one sub out from the Denon and then set the three subs up in the MiniDSP. Is this right or should I use both sub outs from the Denon? If two, do I need to pair up one set of subs with the SubM? If yes, which is generally best?

This is the first time I’ve gone >4 subs, sorry if these and noob questions that should be common knowledge.
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post #10625 of 10805 Old 11-27-2017, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post
Hi Mark,

Any news on a fix for slight noise/hum on the 6kw 240v amps yet? Also I sent off my old amps back to you last week. I tried to ring you all last week but no answer... I'm guessing your out of town lol. Hope to hear from you soon.

Cheers,
Kevin
Hi Kevin,

E-mail is definitely easier to catch up with the significant time difference and around the holiday week. I'll be speaking with SpeakerPower about this later today and follow up with you directly.

Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
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post #10626 of 10805 Old 11-27-2017, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmanick View Post
Question for those with more than two locations for subs.

I have my front pair equidistant in the front corners and my rear pair equidistant in the rear corners and so far have been using the two subs outs on my Denon AVR-X7200WA for those two sets.

Adding in the SubM right behind my MLP, I’m thinking I need something like a MiniDSP so I can set distance/delay setting for theee locations now. Would the standard MiniDSP 2x4 work or do I need be 2x4HD or DDRM-2?

Whichever one you all advise to get, I am assuming I would just use one sub out from the Denon and then set the three subs up in the MiniDSP. Is this right or should I use both sub outs from the Denon? If two, do I need to pair up one set of subs with the SubM? If yes, which is generally best?

This is the first time I’ve gone >4 subs, sorry if these and noob questions that should be common knowledge.
A balanced MiniDSP would be a useful route, or any other DSP with >4 outputs.

Do remember that your Audyssey in your Denon doesn't EQ your subs separately, but rather adjusts delay & level before applying global EQ. I would first check to see what the channel levels and delays are between your current 2 subwoofer outputs. That info will tell us a lot, but generally Audyssey is most effective in the bass range when you can simplify its task to just smoothing the measured response, so the separate EQ would be an upgrade if you put in a little time with REW.
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post #10627 of 10805 Old 11-27-2017, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmanick View Post
Question for those with more than two locations for subs.

I have my front pair equidistant in the front corners and my rear pair equidistant in the rear corners and so far have been using the two subs outs on my Denon AVR-X7200WA for those two sets.

Adding in the SubM right behind my MLP, I’m thinking I need something like a MiniDSP so I can set distance/delay setting for theee locations now. Would the standard MiniDSP 2x4 work or do I need be 2x4HD or DDRM-2?

Whichever one you all advise to get, I am assuming I would just use one sub out from the Denon and then set the three subs up in the MiniDSP. Is this right or should I use both sub outs from the Denon? If two, do I need to pair up one set of subs with the SubM? If yes, which is generally best?

This is the first time I’ve gone >4 subs, sorry if these and noob questions that should be common knowledge.
I would recommend the MiniDSP 2x4 HD. Especially since you have the X7200 (unbalanced). The HD has more delay range and more features (it can even be upgraded to Dirac Live).

I don't want to rain on the parade… but, I have found that dual-opposed alignments are the least-effective for nearfield setups. The Submersive F2 or F18+ will perform better nearfield IME. The HP can be made to work, it just wouldn't be my first choice. For best results, try aiming one driver driver directly into the back of the MLP (the closer the better). If you need room to recline you can lay the HP on its side (amp up) to allow more clearance.

It may be worth the extra $$ for the F2 w/B-stock amp, especially if you like chest slam. Or, you can always stack a PA MBM on top of the HP for extra chest slam.
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post #10628 of 10805 Old 11-28-2017, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
I would recommend the MiniDSP 2x4 HD. Especially since you have the X7200 (unbalanced). The HD has more delay range and more features (it can even be upgraded to Dirac Live).

I don't want to rain on the parade… but, I have found that dual-opposed alignments are the least-effective for nearfield setups. The Submersive F2 or F18+ will perform better nearfield IME. The HP can be made to work, it just wouldn't be my first choice. For best results, try aiming one driver driver directly into the back of the MLP (the closer the better). If you need room to recline you can lay the HP on its side (amp up) to allow more clearance.

It may be worth the extra $$ for the F2 w/B-stock amp, especially if you like chest slam. Or, you can always stack a PA MBM on top of the HP for extra chest slam.
The F2 could also work well for more money, but my preference is the opposite, as I've found a SubMersive directly behind the seating with the pair of woofers on the sides keeps them close enough, but also far enough to not make the effect so localized that it changes every couple inches you move left, right, or forward. I prefer a near field subwoofer to add to the intensity within a close bubble, but not overly call attention to itself, as that effect tends to muddy up perceived detail in the bass. While it can be fun, and I well know how to rattle your molars or make your back tingle with such deployment and intensity, for a system like Snowmanick's with his very refined Synthesis speakers I prefer not to be smacked over the back of the head with my bass.

A "near field" subwoofer simply implies the sub is close enough for the direct response to be more dominant than the room's modal interaction. Such use can vary from drivers inches from the listener's back giving very immediate and localized tactile effect, on to using 2-4 subs flanking and/or behind the seats to create a bubble of smoother and more intense bass. This gets well into the range of preference vs accuracy.
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post #10629 of 10805 Old 11-28-2017, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post
The F2 could also work well for more money, but my preference is the opposite, as I've found a SubMersive directly behind the seating with the pair of woofers on the sides keeps them close enough, but also far enough to not make the effect so localized that it changes every couple inches you move left, right, or forward. I prefer a near field subwoofer to add to the intensity within a close bubble, but not overly call attention to itself, as that effect tends to muddy up perceived detail in the bass. While it can be fun, and I well know how to rattle your molars or make your back tingle with such deployment and intensity, for a system like Snowmanick's with his very refined Synthesis speakers I prefer not to be smacked over the back of the head with my bass.

A "near field" subwoofer simply implies the sub is close enough for the direct response to be more dominant than the room's modal interaction. Such use can vary from drivers inches from the listener's back giving very immediate and localized tactile effect, on to using 2-4 subs flanking and/or behind the seats to create a bubble of smoother and more intense bass. This gets well into the range of preference vs accuracy.
Very interesting.

Mark, isn't there going to be a bubble of cancellation extremely nearfield to the middle of the cabinet do to the dual-opposed drivers being driven out-of-phase? How do you determine the proper placement distance to achieve your desired near-field effect?
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post #10630 of 10805 Old 12-01-2017, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post
Hi Kevin,

E-mail is definitely easier to catch up with the significant time difference and around the holiday week. I'll be speaking with SpeakerPower about this later today and follow up with you directly.
Hi Mark, emailed you but no reply.

Did you end up finding out from speaker power about the hum/noise issue my 6kw amps have?

Thanks

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post #10631 of 10805 Old 12-02-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Very interesting.

Mark, isn't there going to be a bubble of cancellation extremely nearfield to the middle of the cabinet do to the dual-opposed drivers being driven out-of-phase? How do you determine the proper placement distance to achieve your desired near-field effect?
Say what now? In a sub with dual opposed drivers, they are both connected in phase. They have to be, otherwise they would cancel each other out. Believe me, i have tried

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post #10632 of 10805 Old 12-02-2017, 06:25 PM
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Say what now? In a sub with dual opposed drivers, they are both connected in phase. They have to be, otherwise they would cancel each other out. Believe me, i have tried
You are right. My mind has been bent by discussions of push-pull.
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post #10633 of 10805 Old 12-07-2017, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post
Hi Kevin,

E-mail is definitely easier to catch up with the significant time difference and around the holiday week. I'll be speaking with SpeakerPower about this later today and follow up with you directly.
Anyone heard from Mark lately?... I'm still waiting to hear back from him.

I'm in Australia so not sure if there are any holidays going on or if he is still on holidays.

Cheers

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post #10634 of 10805 Old 12-07-2017, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post
Anyone heard from Mark lately?... I'm still waiting to hear back from him.

I'm in Australia so not sure if there are any holidays going on or if he is still on holidays.

Cheers

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I tried to get some service about a year ago, as two of my four SubMersive HP amps failed just out of warranty. After an initial response(s), the communication ceased as I made the transaction more complicated than a simple financial transaction. I think he focuses more on new sales, which is understandable.

He may be a one-man show as well, making things worse for those of us needing more than just a phone call to get a credit card number and shipping address.


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post #10635 of 10805 Old 12-07-2017, 10:40 AM
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post #10636 of 10805 Old 12-07-2017, 05:26 PM
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Got a reply from Mark Seaton this morning. Thanks Mark!

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post #10637 of 10805 Old 01-22-2018, 11:40 AM
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I am looking to upgrade my bass this year and had the SubMersive HP+ on the short list , so had some questions for those that know about them .


My room is 1700 cubic feet , 19 L x 11 W X 8 H , and use is 60% HT / 40 % Music.


MLP is aprox is 10 feet from the tower speakers (and would be about the same from the subwoofer when I get one, as it will likely sit near of the towers.


1) Space and budget will limit me to ONE sub , so anyone have knowledge if one SubMersive in a room of similar size , would be fine ?


2) How is the Reliability of the Seaton HP+ ?
As compared to JTR, Rythmic, Funk etc ?


3) How is this sub for music , and how does it handle bass drums and bass guitars ? (or is crossover generally set too low to output the Bass Guitar frequency much from the sub itself ?)


4) Are there any other subs you would recommend over the SubMersive HP+ at a similar or less cost ?

Denon AVR X4400H , PSB Image 6T towers, 9C Centre , 2B Surrounds
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post #10638 of 10805 Old 01-22-2018, 04:29 PM
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2) Seaton has a 5 year warranty which is only matched by PSA as far as I know:
https://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/p...policy-7334218

3) I don't think there's a finer subwoofer for music available.

4) JTR S1 is also in that price range and will give you more low end for home theater, but I dont believe has the same midbass efficiency as the Submersive.

What sub do you have now?
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post #10639 of 10805 Old 01-23-2018, 01:27 AM
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2) Seaton has a 5 year warranty which is only matched by PSA as far as I know:
https://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/p...policy-7334218

3) I don't think there's a finer subwoofer for music available.

4) JTR S1 is also in that price range and will give you more low end for home theater, but I dont believe has the same midbass efficiency as the Submersive.

What sub do you have now?
I kinda have a sub ( the first and only one I ever got , back in the mid/late 2000's ) it is a REL Strata III, (10" down firing , 100 watt amp) but it is a lemon so I rarely even turn it on.

It starts to make strange noises even with no signal going to it etc .. like a crackling/ scratching type of sound



Your point number 3) is very high praise for the SubMersive HP+

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post #10640 of 10805 Old 01-25-2018, 07:30 PM
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Hi all,

I have 4 Seaton Submersives HPs, 2 with 2400W and one with 4000W Master/Slave

Just bummed out as today, I found one of the 2400W sub has a flashing “PROT” RED LED light. I think the amp has failed because I’m not getting output although I know there is signal.

I bought the 2400Ws back in 2012 so they are out of warranty. Is it worth trying to get the amp repaired through Speakerpower or should I just buy another amp from Mark?

I can’t imagine the amp replacement would be difficult and I’m the field replacement would be a snap.

Any feedbacks or comments from someone who has gone through what I am experiencing right now?

Thanks!
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Hi all,

I have 4 Seaton Submersives HPs, 2 with 2400W and one with 4000W Master/Slave

Just bummed out as today, I found one of the 2400W sub has a flashing “PROT” RED LED light. I think the amp has failed because I’m not getting output although I know there is signal.

I bought the 2400Ws back in 2012 so they are out of warranty. Is it worth trying to get the amp repaired through Speakerpower or should I just buy another amp from Mark?

I can’t imagine the amp replacement would be difficult and I’m the field replacement would be a snap.

Any feedbacks or comments from someone who has gone through what I am experiencing right now?

Thanks!
Call Mark and see what your options are. It is a simple swap and repair probably is an option; there might also be upgrade option in lieu of repair.
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post #10642 of 10805 Old 01-25-2018, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by point1 View Post
Hi all,

I have 4 Seaton Submersives HPs, 2 with 2400W and one with 4000W Master/Slave

Just bummed out as today, I found one of the 2400W sub has a flashing “PROT” RED LED light. I think the amp has failed because I’m not getting output although I know there is signal.

I bought the 2400Ws back in 2012 so they are out of warranty. Is it worth trying to get the amp repaired through Speakerpower or should I just buy another amp from Mark?

I can’t imagine the amp replacement would be difficult and I’m the field replacement would be a snap.

Any feedbacks or comments from someone who has gone through what I am experiencing right now?

Thanks!
You should already have an e-mail I sent earlier this evening. The HP & HP+ amplifiers are very easily serviced as these are proprietary designs directly produced by SpeakerPower rather than a third party module like the B&O ICEpower based units. Repairing the units is the best value and keeps your setup easier with the set of 4 subs you have. If you wanted the latest amplifier features and a new 5 year warranty, you could upgrade the amplifiers to the latest HP+ units.

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post #10643 of 10805 Old 01-27-2018, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by point1 View Post
Hi all,

I have 4 Seaton Submersives HPs, 2 with 2400W and one with 4000W Master/Slave

Just bummed out as today, I found one of the 2400W sub has a flashing “PROT” RED LED light. I think the amp has failed because I’m not getting output although I know there is signal.

I bought the 2400Ws back in 2012 so they are out of warranty. Is it worth trying to get the amp repaired through Speakerpower or should I just buy another amp from Mark?

I can’t imagine the amp replacement would be difficult and I’m the field replacement would be a snap.

Any feedbacks or comments from someone who has gone through what I am experiencing right now?

Thanks!
I know Mark already replied, but I just wanted to let you know I have one Submersive (upgraded to HP), and same thing happened to me a few months ago. I called up Mark and after talking with him, decided to do an amp swap and move up to the newer 4000W model. It isn't the current revision with the extra settings, but that is okay with me, and it was more cost effective. That might be an option for you, as well.

We went quite awhile without a working sub, and after getting the fix, it was like a throwback in time to when we first installed the Submersive. I am once again thoroughly impressed with the HT experience these subs provide!
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post #10644 of 10805 Old 01-27-2018, 10:29 AM
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I know Mark already replied, but I just wanted to let you know I have one Submersive (upgraded to HP), and same thing happened to me a few months ago. I called up Mark and after talking with him, decided to do an amp swap and move up to the newer 4000W model. It isn't the current revision with the extra settings, but that is okay with me, and it was more cost effective. That might be an option for you, as well.



We went quite awhile without a working sub, and after getting the fix, it was like a throwback in time to when we first installed the Submersive. I am once again thoroughly impressed with the HT experience these subs provide!


Two of my four have been out of commission for a long time, and that is my plan as well, except I want to add a slave unit and move one the HP subs to another room.


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post #10645 of 10805 Old 01-27-2018, 11:54 AM
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Two of my four have been out of commission for a long time, and that is my plan as well, except I want to add a slave unit and move one the HP subs to another room.


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Since a slave is basically a master w/o the amp, you might be able to replace one of your dead amps with a 4000W and get a "slave plate" for the second dead one. Then, you could do whatever you wanted for a sub in the other room.

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post #10646 of 10805 Old 03-02-2018, 01:29 PM
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HI Mark, I'm still waiting for you to reply to my emails mate. Haven't had confirmation about you sending the replacement amps since December lol. Sent you a follow up email in early Feb and also another email a Day or two ago.....since I know Dec/Jan would be hectic for you and other business. But I think I've been pretty patient now. I would really like this sorted out soon please.

Cheers
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post #10647 of 10805 Old 03-02-2018, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post
HI Mark, I'm still waiting for you to reply to my emails mate. Haven't had confirmation about you sending the replacement amps since December lol. Sent you a follow up email in early Feb and also another email a Day or two ago.....since I know Dec/Jan would be hectic for you and other business. But I think I've been pretty patient now. I would really like this sorted out soon please.

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Kevin

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You should tag him in the post so he gets notified. He may not get on the forum for weeks.


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post #10648 of 10805 Old 03-02-2018, 03:01 PM
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And AXPONA is this weekend so he’s going to be out of pocket


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post #10649 of 10805 Old 03-02-2018, 03:03 PM
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You should tag him in the post so he gets notified. He may not get on the forum for weeks.


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How do I do that? , Imureh

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post #10650 of 10805 Old 03-02-2018, 03:03 PM
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And AXPONA is this weekend so he’s going to be out of pocket


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Thanks for letting me know, mate.

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