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post #8761 of 8889 Old 11-09-2019, 07:20 PM
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New dual VTF-2 MK5 question, I already have a vtf-3 mk4 and was wondering if it would integrate well with the new VTF-2 MK5? Receiver is a denon x3600h with Audyssey MultiEQ XT32, the 2 new sub's will be equal distance from the MLP and I plan on running them of 1 of the sub outs and the older sub off the other. Thoughts or suggestions? Back up plan was to try and sell the vtf-3 and purchase a third vtf-2.
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post #8762 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Neuht View Post
New dual VTF-2 MK5 question, I already have a vtf-3 mk4 and was wondering if it would integrate well with the new VTF-2 MK5? Receiver is a denon x3600h with Audyssey MultiEQ XT32, the 2 new sub's will be equal distance from the MLP and I plan on running them of 1 of the sub outs and the older sub off the other. Thoughts or suggestions? Back up plan was to try and sell the vtf-3 and purchase a third vtf-2.
Hi there!

The two subs are fairly close. That being said the VTF-3 Mk4 does have a larger enclosure and a bigger 4" port vs 3" port in the VTF-2 Mk5. There is a slight difference in performance in the ultra low bass and the VTF-3 Mk4 will play a bit louder and cleaner than the VTF-2 Mk5 there. The main thing you have to worry about is potentially bottlenecking your sub setup with the VTF-2 Mk5, based on that difference. It may not be that big of a deal though. It just depends on the kind of material you are playing and how loud the subs are playing.
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post #8763 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 03:12 PM
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Issue with one of my ULS mk1. When I turn any of the knobs behind the sub with the subs on but not playing content, I can hear a raking sound like coming through the cone. The sound isnt just something that could be heard inside the enclosure but it's coming through the actual woofer like a scratching noise. Can anyone tell me what that could be? Also, if I run a sweep in REW, I hear the noise a bit at the beginning of the sweep. Which means it is present in the lower ranges.
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post #8764 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 04:02 PM
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These are pictures of the amp in question. I believe I had an early version of the TN1220HO. When I disassembled the tube the port was only 14" minus the flares. The center section was cardboard.
HSU tech said they didnt really know what I had, as they didnt remember every using a cardboard mid-section, (s/b all plastic) and definitely should be 24" plus flares. No worries....I'm replacing the main tube and upper wood driver mount and a port tube switch is easy, it just has me questioning the amp as well. The 150 watt version I've seen a picture of looks identical. If all goes well with this rehab, I will probably buy the 500 watt (much nicer, I'm sure) & build a second unit. The rug rats are gone now so it's safe! Funny side note...I was born and raised in L.A. and use to have the sub and my Maggie's anchored to the ceiling with 150 lbs. Mono fishing line for earthquake damage control after the 5.9 Pico quake!
Last question-do you still have the 3inch spikes around? Those are MIA, but something can be substituted if they aren't available.
I appreciate your wonderful tech support on such an old model.
Amp serial number is :6180
Thanks!
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post #8765 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Issue with one of my ULS mk1. When I turn any of the knobs behind the sub with the subs on but not playing content, I can hear a raking sound like coming through the cone. The sound isnt just something that could be heard inside the enclosure but it's coming through the actual woofer like a scratching noise. Can anyone tell me what that could be? Also, if I run a sweep in REW, I hear the noise a bit at the beginning of the sweep. Which means it is present in the lower ranges.
Hi there,

That sounds like a dirty potentiometer. That can happen over time. What I would do is flip the sub power to off and sweep the knob from min to max repeatedly about 5-7 times. If that doesn't clear up, you may want to consider using contact cleaner to spray into the pot. If you need to do that, let me know and I'll try to walk you through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelrgalvin View Post
These are pictures of the amp in question. I believe I had an early version of the TN1220HO. When I disassembled the tube the port was only 14" minus the flares. The center section was cardboard.
HSU tech said they didnt really know what I had, as they didnt remember every using a cardboard mid-section, (s/b all plastic) and definitely should be 24" plus flares. No worries....I'm replacing the main tube and upper wood driver mount and a port tube switch is easy, it just has me questioning the amp as well. The 150 watt version I've seen a picture of looks identical. If all goes well with this rehab, I will probably buy the 500 watt (much nicer, I'm sure) & build a second unit. The rug rats are gone now so it's safe! Funny side note...I was born and raised in L.A. and use to have the sub and my Maggie's anchored to the ceiling with 150 lbs. Mono fishing line for earthquake damage control after the 5.9 Pico quake!
Last question-do you still have the 3inch spikes around? Those are MIA, but something can be substituted if they aren't available.
I appreciate your wonderful tech support on such an old model.
Amp serial number is :6180
Thanks!
Thanks! When you talked to the Hsu tech, was that via phone or email? I'll pass this by Dr. Hsu to see if he has any idea.
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post #8766 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 04:49 PM
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Thanks Kevin, that most definitely worked.
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post #8767 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by davidag02 View Post
Proud new owner of dual VTF-2's! They absolutely rock in my 14x18 media room!



Great looking room! Unless you got really lucky with having symmetrical placement on the front stage, don't ever measure with REW, as you will want to move one of the subs in order to get a good, even frequency response.
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post #8768 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 07:44 PM
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Thank Kevin! My contact with tech support goes back to June of 2018. No name, just tech support. I sent pictures of the amp and port tube. Not a big deal....just trying to verify the amp since it has no eq switch for 1220/1225.
Much appriciated!
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post #8769 of 8889 Old 11-10-2019, 08:01 PM
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Thanks for the info. I have one of the VTF 2's in now and waiting on FedEx for the other initial set up one sub on each channel seems good thus far. Auduessy trimmed the larger sub -1.5 from the other, I do notice a lot more port noise from the new sub at or near reference levels. At this point seems like a lateral move to the new subs but I'll wait and see how all 3 play together. I'm thinking I should have forked over the extra cash and went with dual VTF-3 MK5's.
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post #8770 of 8889 Old 11-11-2019, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
Great looking room! Unless you got really lucky with having symmetrical placement on the front stage, don't ever measure with REW, as you will want to move one of the subs in order to get a good, even frequency response.
Thanks! I know it's not ideal placement, but considering this is my first time with dual subs and my first time having a fully enclosed room, this is a HUGE step up for me in terms of bass quality. It's hard to imagine it being any better even though I know it can.

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post #8771 of 8889 Old 11-12-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelrgalvin View Post
Thank Kevin! My contact with tech support goes back to June of 2018. No name, just tech support. I sent pictures of the amp and port tube. Not a big deal....just trying to verify the amp since it has no eq switch for 1220/1225.
Much appriciated!
Ah OK. Yea that's definitely the 250w amp. We did not have a 150w amp that looks like that. In terms of the spiked feet, we do have a few of those left. You can call in to place the order.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuht View Post
Thanks for the info. I have one of the VTF 2's in now and waiting on FedEx for the other initial set up one sub on each channel seems good thus far. Auduessy trimmed the larger sub -1.5 from the other, I do notice a lot more port noise from the new sub at or near reference levels. At this point seems like a lateral move to the new subs but I'll wait and see how all 3 play together. I'm thinking I should have forked over the extra cash and went with dual VTF-3 MK5's.
That's possible as reference levels is quite high in volume. What are your settings on the two subs?

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Thanks! I know it's not ideal placement, but considering this is my first time with dual subs and my first time having a fully enclosed room, this is a HUGE step up for me in terms of bass quality. It's hard to imagine it being any better even though I know it can.
It really does depend on the room, but if you're happy with the sound, ultimately that's what matters. Glad you are enjoying the subs!
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post #8772 of 8889 Old 11-12-2019, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
Ah OK. Yea that's definitely the 250w amp. We did not have a 150w amp that looks like that. In terms of the spiked feet, we do have a few of those left. You can call in to place the order.



That's possible as reference levels is quite high in volume. What are your settings on the two subs?



It really does depend on the room, but if you're happy with the sound, ultimately that's what matters. Glad you are enjoying the subs!
Volume set to a right around a 1/4 on both subs, one port, eq-2 audyssey is at -8.5. I still need to play with placement and more then likely get a mini DSP and a UMIK-1 and run REW or that multi subwoofer software I have seen on here.
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post #8773 of 8889 Old 11-13-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Neuht View Post
Volume set to a right around a 1/4 on both subs, one port, eq-2 audyssey is at -8.5. I still need to play with placement and more then likely get a mini DSP and a UMIK-1 and run REW or that multi subwoofer software I have seen on here.
That's interesting. Audyssey set the subs to -8.5 on the channel level? Did you run them with 1 port open, EQ 1, Q.7, crossover set to out when you ran audyssey?

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Also just wanted to make a quick announcement for everyone. Due to popular request, we have decided to release a black cone variant of the CCB-8 speaker. Both the yellow and black variants will be the same price and will be ready for order on the site within a day or two. They are in stock, so the speakers will likely ship out within one business day. Thank you all for your feedback and for your support!
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post #8774 of 8889 Old 11-14-2019, 09:35 AM
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Hi all,
This is my first foray into the Hsu forums as I’m ordinarily an SVS guy so bare with me. I just picked up what can essentially be called a new old stock VTF3-MK2. It’s brand new in the box and I couldn’t pass it up for the price. My HT used to be in my living room but I have since moved it to my finished basement once I had the firepower to pressurize it. This left me with the system that was in my basement now in my living room, a Marantz 7009 pushing a pair of Polk TSi300’s and a CS10 center. Seeing as I still do most of my TV watching and the occasional movie in my living room I was really missing the bass I was accustomed to having in there. The last time I had a single sub in that room was an SVS PC12+ and it sounded very good when run wide open in 20hz mode. I’m wondering If you guys think I should also run the VTF3 wide open as well or if I should put it in extension mode. Also I’ve always kinda drooled over the VTF3’s with the “turbo chargers” on them. Can I use one of those with this sub if I found one or does it have to be a VTF3 HO?
Thanks in advance.

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post #8775 of 8889 Old 11-14-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BNestico View Post
Hi all,
This is my first foray into the Hsu forums as I’m ordinarily an SVS guy so bare with me. I just picked up what can essentially be called a new old stock VTF3-MK2. It’s brand new in the box and I couldn’t pass it up for the price. My HT used to be in my living room but I have since moved it to my finished basement once I had the firepower to pressurize it. This left me with the system that was in my basement now in my living room, a Marantz 7009 pushing a pair of Polk TSi300’s and a CS10 center. Seeing as I still do most of my TV watching and the occasional movie in my living room I was really missing the bass I was accustomed to having in there. The last time I had a single sub in that room was an SVS PC12+ and it sounded very good when run wide open in 20hz mode. I’m wondering If you guys think I should also run the VTF3 wide open as well or if I should put it in extension mode. Also I’ve always kinda drooled over the VTF3’s with the “turbo chargers” on them. Can I use one of those with this sub if I found one or does it have to be a VTF3 HO?
Thanks in advance.
http://forum.hsuresearch.com/showthread.php?t=2859

The HO turbo will fit the Mk2, sorta. (The HO has larger ports, but the turbo apparently can still seal against the Mk2.) According to Hsu's web pages, the HO is also wider and deeper than the Mk2, so there will be some overhang. Bit of a kludge, but if it works...

Last edited by bobknavs; 11-14-2019 at 12:09 PM.
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post #8776 of 8889 Old 11-14-2019, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BNestico View Post
Hi all,
This is my first foray into the Hsu forums as I’m ordinarily an SVS guy so bare with me. I just picked up what can essentially be called a new old stock VTF3-MK2. It’s brand new in the box and I couldn’t pass it up for the price. My HT used to be in my living room but I have since moved it to my finished basement once I had the firepower to pressurize it. This left me with the system that was in my basement now in my living room, a Marantz 7009 pushing a pair of Polk TSi300’s and a CS10 center. Seeing as I still do most of my TV watching and the occasional movie in my living room I was really missing the bass I was accustomed to having in there. The last time I had a single sub in that room was an SVS PC12+ and it sounded very good when run wide open in 20hz mode. I’m wondering If you guys think I should also run the VTF3 wide open as well or if I should put it in extension mode. Also I’ve always kinda drooled over the VTF3’s with the “turbo chargers” on them. Can I use one of those with this sub if I found one or does it have to be a VTF3 HO?
Thanks in advance.
It's an old post from 2006, but here is the VTF-3 mk2 with turbo: http://forum.hsuresearch.com/showthread.php?t=2109
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post #8777 of 8889 Old 11-14-2019, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BNestico View Post
Hi all,
This is my first foray into the Hsu forums as I’m ordinarily an SVS guy so bare with me. I just picked up what can essentially be called a new old stock VTF3-MK2. It’s brand new in the box and I couldn’t pass it up for the price. My HT used to be in my living room but I have since moved it to my finished basement once I had the firepower to pressurize it. This left me with the system that was in my basement now in my living room, a Marantz 7009 pushing a pair of Polk TSi300’s and a CS10 center. Seeing as I still do most of my TV watching and the occasional movie in my living room I was really missing the bass I was accustomed to having in there. The last time I had a single sub in that room was an SVS PC12+ and it sounded very good when run wide open in 20hz mode. I’m wondering If you guys think I should also run the VTF3 wide open as well or if I should put it in extension mode. Also I’ve always kinda drooled over the VTF3’s with the “turbo chargers” on them. Can I use one of those with this sub if I found one or does it have to be a VTF3 HO?
Thanks in advance.
Congrats on your VTF-3 Mk2! As others have stated you can sorta fit the turbo charger in the flare of the port, but it was really designed for 4" ports. In terms of which mode to use, it honestly depends on your room. I always recommend starting with 1 port open for the port configuration and operating mode switch for max extension. That way you can get more of that sub 20 Hz output, but if your room is causing a lot of room gain there or you don't feel that that you need much of those sub frequencies, then by all means run it with two ports open mode to give you more clean headroom. Is the living room pretty large? Is it an open floor plan?
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post #8778 of 8889 Old 11-15-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
Congrats on your VTF-3 Mk2! As others have stated you can sorta fit the turbo charger in the flare of the port, but it was really designed for 4" ports. In terms of which mode to use, it honestly depends on your room. I always recommend starting with 1 port open for the port configuration and operating mode switch for max extension. That way you can get more of that sub 20 Hz output, but if your room is causing a lot of room gain there or you don't feel that that you need much of those sub frequencies, then by all means run it with two ports open mode to give you more clean headroom. Is the living room pretty large? Is it an open floor plan?
My living room is about 13 by 20 (give or take , with an opening to the hall way and a double door sized opening to my dining room. As I said, I’ve had a single PC12+ in that room previously, which is slightly more powerful and it really sounded great in 20hz mode but it needed company in the form of a PC-Ultra (12” same 525 watt amp) to really do it in 16hz mode. I’m kind of expecting the VTF3 to behave similarly to my single PC12+ due to the downfiring driver.

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post #8779 of 8889 Old 11-17-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
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Congrats on your VTF-3 Mk2! As others have stated you can sorta fit the turbo charger in the flare of the port, but it was really designed for 4" ports. In terms of which mode to use, it honestly depends on your room. I always recommend starting with 1 port open for the port configuration and operating mode switch for max extension. That way you can get more of that sub 20 Hz output, but if your room is causing a lot of room gain there or you don't feel that that you need much of those sub frequencies, then by all means run it with two ports open mode to give you more clean headroom. Is the living room pretty large? Is it an open floor plan?
My living room is about 13 by 20 (give or take , with an opening to the hall way and a double door sized opening to my dining room. As I said, I’️ve had a single PC12+ in that room previously, which is slightly more powerful and it really sounded great in 20hz mode but it needed company in the form of a PC-Ultra (12” same 525 watt amp) to really do it in 16hz mode. I’️m kind of expecting the VTF3 to behave similarly to my single PC12+ due to the downfiring driver.
Correct. If your PC-12+ sounded good in that position, likely the VTF-3 Mk2 will, as well. Where are you seated in that room? If there is only a hallway opening, and a double door sized opening to the dining room, then I would try running with 1 port open, 2 ports open for the operating mode.
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post #8780 of 8889 Old 11-20-2019, 11:04 AM
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Hey Kevin, in your educated opinion, what would be best in both output and response, 4 ULS mk1s or 2 ULS mk2s?

My question comes because as you may remember I already have 2 mk1s and I dont want to have to sell these to buy the mk2s but its tempting because of the improvements in the mk2.

For the record, my room is dedicated, treated and 14.5' x 13' x 9'.
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post #8781 of 8889 Old 11-21-2019, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Hey Kevin, in your educated opinion, what would be best in both output and response, 4 ULS mk1s or 2 ULS mk2s?

My question comes because as you may remember I already have 2 mk1s and I dont want to have to sell these to buy the mk2s but its tempting because of the improvements in the mk2.

For the record, my room is dedicated, treated and 14.5' x 13' x 9'.
Yea that's a bit tough as the ULS-15 was a different design approach than the ULS-15 Mk2. The original used the XBL^2 design. So I would say that 4 ULS-15's would outperform two Mk2's at certain frequencies (likely more of the lower bass) and they'd probably be similar in the mid-bass. However, below 20 hz, they would be similar as well if not moreso in the ULS-15 Mk2 favor. If you have two ULS-15 MK1's, I would just run those with two ULS-15 MK2's if you're ok with having 4 subs in the room. Those should be able to pressurize that area quite well. Where are you seated in that room?
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post #8782 of 8889 Old 11-21-2019, 06:25 PM
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Approximately 10ft from the front wall. I used the 32% rule to get my seating distance. Have run REW and having the subs upfront between the L and the C and the R and the C is the best place in the room.
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post #8783 of 8889 Old 11-21-2019, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimwyn View Post
Hey Kevin, in your educated opinion, what would be best in both output and response, 4 ULS mk1s or 2 ULS mk2s?

My question comes because as you may remember I already have 2 mk1s and I dont want to have to sell these to buy the mk2s but its tempting because of the improvements in the mk2.

For the record, my room is dedicated, treated and 14.5' x 13' x 9'.
Yea that's a bit tough as the ULS-15 was a different design approach than the ULS-15 Mk2. The original used the XBL^2 design. So I would say that 4 ULS-15's would outperform two Mk2's at certain frequencies (likely more of the lower bass) and they'd probably be similar in the mid-bass. However, below 20 hz, they would be similar as well if not moreso in the ULS-15 Mk2 favor. If you have two ULS-15 MK1's, I would just run those with two ULS-15 MK2's if you're ok with having 4 subs in the room. Those should be able to pressurize that area quite well. Where are you seated in that room?
But earlier this year you mentioned to me that the mk2s would be bottlenecked by the mk1s in a 2 and 2 set up.
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post #8784 of 8889 Old 11-22-2019, 05:41 PM
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But earlier this year you mentioned to me that the mk2s would be bottlenecked by the mk1s in a 2 and 2 set up.
That is true if you're playing your ULS-15 subs to their performance limits. However, if anything it would be like having 4 ULS-15's in room, if not, moreso since the Mk2's can play louder and cleaner. Have you ever tried placing one of the subs closer to your seating position?
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post #8785 of 8889 Old 11-22-2019, 06:09 PM
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I have but the response was not as good as with them in the front. And I know that we put the subs in the best position first. So I don't believe I would move them anywhere else since that's the best spot.
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post #8786 of 8889 Old 11-25-2019, 06:54 PM
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I have but the response was not as good as with them in the front. And I know that we put the subs in the best position first. So I don't believe I would move them anywhere else since that's the best spot.
Gotcha. Out of curiosity, did you try changing the distance correction on the second sub when you did that, or did you try the phase switch?
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post #8787 of 8889 Old 11-26-2019, 12:11 AM
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HSU VTF-3 MK2 extremely low sound output - bad amp?

Hi, I recently purchased this VTF-3 MK2 locally and it was kind of brand new old stock item. I was expecting this sub to fire up on set up. But somehow it produces very very low level of output and I've to put my ears close to sub actually hear it. The green light shows up and it seems to be getting power properly.
I've tested connecting it with both my Pioneer receiver as well as 1/8 to RCA via my phone / surface tab to sub woofer by running you-tube sub woofer frequency test videos.
Given that its a brand new sub I know its very old model, what could go wrong with it? I've been reading a lot of threads to fill up my knowledge base but I'm not an expert in digital electronics to figure out what is wrong with it.

Question: If its a bad amplifier then how much is the replacement amplifier plate and what all models fit into it? I searched couple of posts but the links that goes to parts-express does not have those parts in stock any more. Not really sure what part it will take and how much could be repair cost.

Any links/references would be appreciate. I'm from CA if I could take it to some shop and if its not too expensive to repair rather buying a new one.
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post #8788 of 8889 Old 11-26-2019, 12:08 PM
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Yes I did and nothing worked. Here are pics of the room.
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post #8789 of 8889 Old 11-26-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by pixologics View Post
Hi, I recently purchased this VTF-3 MK2 locally and it was kind of brand new old stock item. I was expecting this sub to fire up on set up. But somehow it produces very very low level of output and I've to put my ears close to sub actually hear it. The green light shows up and it seems to be getting power properly.
I've tested connecting it with both my Pioneer receiver as well as 1/8 to RCA via my phone / surface tab to sub woofer by running you-tube sub woofer frequency test videos.
Given that its a brand new sub I know its very old model, what could go wrong with it? I've been reading a lot of threads to fill up my knowledge base but I'm not an expert in digital electronics to figure out what is wrong with it.

Question: If its a bad amplifier then how much is the replacement amplifier plate and what all models fit into it? I searched couple of posts but the links that goes to parts-express does not have those parts in stock any more. Not really sure what part it will take and how much could be repair cost.

Any links/references would be appreciate. I'm from CA if I could take it to some shop and if its not too expensive to repair rather buying a new one.
Any suggestions on aftermarket plate amplifier for this model?
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post #8790 of 8889 Old 11-27-2019, 02:11 PM
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Wanted to post a quick message to thank @HsuKevin for his help yesterday. I went by the showroom with an idea in mind of what I was looking for and he was very helpful in selecting a sub that matches what I was looking for.
Ended up with a VTF 15H Mk2 and it sounds great so far!
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Living Room - XBR77A9G / X800M2 / X4500H / Klipsch RP260F - RP-504C - R-41-SA (Atmos) - HSU VTF-15H MK2 - Pioneer Elite SP-EBS73-LR (Surrounds + Atmos)
Bedroom - 65VT30
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