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post #9151 of 9197 Old 03-18-2020, 07:30 AM
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For those who saw my previous statement in regards to the Orange County Health Department's order, please disregard. Last night, it seems that order will be withdrawn and modified so that businesses may continue to be open while practicing the health guidelines provided by the state government. As always, we'll continue to monitor the situation and we'll update you on our site, forums, etc. should anything change. Thanks!
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post #9152 of 9197 Old 03-20-2020, 06:03 PM
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@HsuKevin

When I'd come in to the shop and talked with you a few months back we'd ended up going with a vtf 15h mk2 for my room

I'm definitely enjoying the sub, and am in the process of re-arranging/redoing my theater portion

couple of things I'd like your opinion on:

Ceilings are 8' room is ~18'x30' in total, however now the home theater setup has moved 180 degrees from the last setup and the area it is in isn't open to rest of house. Also the right side is under a staircase as well (see attached pic)

1) wondering where you think I should try and place the sub - having in wall wiring done and would like to place an RCA cable/outlet near that if possible
2) I'm considering adding another 15h mk2 - any ideas on placement if I were to go with dual subs? Do you think it would be worth to go to dual subs?

Usually listen at -20 ish dB on an x4500h and will be moving to 4 in ceiling atmos speakers as well (5.1.4 setup)

thanks!
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Living Room - XBR77A9G / X800M2 / X4500H / Klipsch RP260F - RP-504C - R-41-SA (Atmos) - HSU VTF-15H MK2 - Pioneer Elite SP-EBS73-LR (Surrounds + Atmos)
Bedroom - 65VT30

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post #9153 of 9197 Old 03-21-2020, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrKyle View Post
@HsuKevin

When I'd come in to the shop and talked with you a few months back we'd ended up going with a vtf 15h mk2 for my room

I'm definitely enjoying the sub, and am in the process of re-arranging/redoing my theater portion

couple of things I'd like your opinion on:

Ceilings are 8' room is ~18'x30' in total, however now the home theater setup has moved 180 degrees from the last setup and the area it is in isn't open to rest of house. Also the right side is under a staircase as well (see attached pic)

1) wondering where you think I should try and place the sub - having in wall wiring done and would like to place an RCA cable/outlet near that if possible
2) I'm considering adding another 15h mk2 - any ideas on placement if I were to go with dual subs? Do you think it would be worth to go to dual subs?

Usually listen at -20 ish dB on an x4500h and will be moving to 4 in ceiling atmos speakers as well (5.1.4 setup)

thanks!
Hi Kyle!

Glad to hear you're enjoying the VTF-15H MK2. Moving the room to more of a portrait orientation instead of landscape may open up a bit more challenges in terms of placement. I'm guessing you used to be seated pretty close to the back wall and had a larger opening to the right, before. Many times when seated out more towards the middle of that area may end up causing more dips in the response at your listening position. That being said, if you're seated about 10' from the front wall,you can try placing the sub either in the front left corner. Since you are closer to the front wall, placing the sub in the front would likely give you a fairly smooth deeper bass, and your mid-bass may be OK as well. However, another position that may actually work out better is to place the sub nearfield, or next to your seating position. For example, you can place the sub to the left of your seating position. Placing the sub nearfield may end up giving you a good amount mid-bass punch and tactile feel. Given you're roughly, 10 feet from the front wall and 20 feet from the back, that may also give you a smoother deeper bass as the cancellation off the front wall may be reinforced by the reflection off the back. Cancellation off the back wall may likely be below 15 Hz. I would definitely recommend giving that a try. Just make sure that you adjust the distance accordingly if you move it next to your seating position.

For everyone:
Due to the growing epidemic of COVID-19, on March 19, 2020, CA Gov. Gavin Newsom, issued a stay-at-home order for the state of California. Hsu Research recognizes the seriousness of COVID-19 and its impact on the population, and we wish to honor the spirit of the executive order given. We also recognize that we do have a commitment to our customers and we have a strong desire to continue to support them in any way we can. With those in mind, effective immediately, Hsu Research will be limiting our on-site hours until the CA executive order is rescinded. Due to this, we will be delaying the processing/shipping of orders to Mondays and Thursdays. We will be available for sales and technical support via email and phone during regular operating hours. More information provided on our main webpage. Thank you so much for your patience and understanding and, as always, we will be keeping you updated should anything change.
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post #9154 of 9197 Old 03-21-2020, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
Hi Kyle!

Glad to hear you're enjoying the VTF-15H MK2. Moving the room to more of a portrait orientation instead of landscape may open up a bit more challenges in terms of placement. I'm guessing you used to be seated pretty close to the back wall and had a larger opening to the right, before. Many times when seated out more towards the middle of that area may end up causing more dips in the response at your listening position. That being said, if you're seated about 10' from the front wall,you can try placing the sub either in the front left corner. Since you are closer to the front wall, placing the sub in the front would likely give you a fairly smooth deeper bass, and your mid-bass may be OK as well. However, another position that may actually work out better is to place the sub nearfield, or next to your seating position. For example, you can place the sub to the left of your seating position. Placing the sub nearfield may end up giving you a good amount mid-bass punch and tactile feel. Given you're roughly, 10 feet from the front wall and 20 feet from the back, that may also give you a smoother deeper bass as the cancellation off the front wall may be reinforced by the reflection off the back. Cancellation off the back wall may likely be below 15 Hz. I would definitely recommend giving that a try. Just make sure that you adjust the distance accordingly if you move it next to your seating position.

For everyone:
Due to the growing epidemic of COVID-19, on March 19, 2020, CA Gov. Gavin Newsom, issued a stay-at-home order for the state of California. Hsu Research recognizes the seriousness of COVID-19 and its impact on the population, and we wish to honor the spirit of the executive order given. We also recognize that we do have a commitment to our customers and we have a strong desire to continue to support them in any way we can. With those in mind, effective immediately, Hsu Research will be limiting our on-site hours until the CA executive order is rescinded. Due to this, we will be delaying the processing/shipping of orders to Mondays and Thursdays. We will be available for sales and technical support via email and phone during regular operating hours. More information provided on our main webpage. Thank you so much for your patience and understanding and, as always, we will be keeping you updated should anything change.
Kevin,
Thanks for your input!

I’m seated in just about the same position now just flipped 180 degrees and have the sub nearfield on the right (which would be the left in the new orientation)

Would you think if I added another sub and put one front left and one near field left that would be ideal setup?

Had my prewiring done today and had a rca cable dropped at both those locations actually!

Living Room - XBR77A9G / X800M2 / X4500H / Klipsch RP260F - RP-504C - R-41-SA (Atmos) - HSU VTF-15H MK2 - Pioneer Elite SP-EBS73-LR (Surrounds + Atmos)
Bedroom - 65VT30
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post #9155 of 9197 Old 03-23-2020, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MrKyle View Post
Kevin,
Thanks for your input!

I’m seated in just about the same position now just flipped 180 degrees and have the sub nearfield on the right (which would be the left in the new orientation)

Would you think if I added another sub and put one front left and one near field left that would be ideal setup?

Had my prewiring done today and had a rca cable dropped at both those locations actually!
Oh OK! So if you're basically at the same position in that room, just flipped, and if you are happy with the bass response you're getting now, then I would just keep the sub in the same position. When you move your speakers, make sure to adjust the distance of the speakers accordingly. You'll likely have the same or very similar bass response.
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post #9156 of 9197 Old 03-23-2020, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
Oh OK! So if you're basically at the same position in that room, just flipped, and if you are happy with the bass response you're getting now, then I would just keep the sub in the same position. When you move your speakers, make sure to adjust the distance of the speakers accordingly. You'll likely have the same or very similar bass response.
would you think adding another 15h mk2 sub would be worthwhile? I think the bass response right now is good but I've got a good line on a used one.

thanks!

Living Room - XBR77A9G / X800M2 / X4500H / Klipsch RP260F - RP-504C - R-41-SA (Atmos) - HSU VTF-15H MK2 - Pioneer Elite SP-EBS73-LR (Surrounds + Atmos)
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post #9157 of 9197 Old 03-23-2020, 07:53 PM
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would you think adding another 15h mk2 sub would be worthwhile? I think the bass response right now is good but I've got a good line on a used one.

thanks!
More is always better.
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post #9158 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 05:24 AM
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As I mentioned in a post a week or so ago, I just got a VTF-3.5 for my theater. I've noticed that sometimes it doesn't seem to notice an input signal and I have to flip the switch from auto to on to get it to wake up, and then I set it back to auto and it remains on for the duration of the movie. I'm listening at normal volumes, so I wouldn't think there'd be an issue with it not detecting the input. Is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of this or check for proper functionality?

Home Theater: Marantz SR6012, Emotiva A-5175, Fronts: Paradigm Titans, Center: Paradigm CC-370, Sides and Rears: Micca M-6S, Ceiling Atmos: Micca M-6R, Sub: HUS VTF-3.5
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post #9159 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MrKyle View Post
would you think adding another 15h mk2 sub would be worthwhile? I think the bass response right now is good but I've got a good line on a used one.

thanks!
It really depends. Agreed with Sorny in that adding a second one is generally a good thing because you would be able to play louder and cleaner. You don't have to turn up the sub as much to get the same output at your listening position. However, if the sub is not being stressed and your response is smooth and even, then there wouldn't be a great of a need and you should be fine sticking with a single sub.

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Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
As I mentioned in a post a week or so ago, I just got a VTF-3.5 for my theater. I've noticed that sometimes it doesn't seem to notice an input signal and I have to flip the switch from auto to on to get it to wake up, and then I set it back to auto and it remains on for the duration of the movie. I'm listening at normal volumes, so I wouldn't think there'd be an issue with it not detecting the input. Is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of this or check for proper functionality?
Unfortunately, it's all component side, so you would need to send it in for us to adjust the sensitivity. If you're receiver sub out is not sending a high enough signal to trigger the auto function, then I would recommend that you leave it in the on position. The on position isn't much different than leaving it in the auto position in terms of power draw and wear on the amp. The amp is pretty efficient, so the varying power it draws is primarily dependent on the output the sub is putting out.

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post #9160 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 12:20 PM
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As I mentioned in a post a week or so ago, I just got a VTF-3.5 for my theater. I've noticed that sometimes it doesn't seem to notice an input signal and I have to flip the switch from auto to on to get it to wake up, and then I set it back to auto and it remains on for the duration of the movie. I'm listening at normal volumes, so I wouldn't think there'd be an issue with it not detecting the input. Is there any way to adjust the sensitivity of this or check for proper functionality?
What's your definition of "normal volume" though? I've seen people who think -10MV is normal while others feel it's -30MV. It isn't atypical to find that more volume is necessary to wake up the amp than is required to prevent it going back into standby mode. If you upped the volume to a higher level than you generally listen does it still remain in standby, or is switching it to on the only way to wake it up?

 
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post #9161 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 01:26 PM
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Hello All/Kevin,
I brought home a couple of VTF2-MK5. Attached picture is my current set-up.

Room size: 10' W x 14' D x 8' H
AVR Denon X4500h
Speakers 7.2.4
Both Subs in front stage 6 feet apart (can't move)
AVR/XT32 Calibrated
One Port Open
EQ1
Phase 0
Q3
Crossover Out/AVR 80Hz
100% for Movies

I just want to know if I made any major setting mistake on my part. As mentioned, I can't move these subs as I have no room and they also serve as stands for my front.

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post #9162 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by t30t28t16t12 View Post
Hello All/Kevin,
I brought home a couple of VTF2-MK5. Attached picture is my current set-up.

Room size: 10' W x 14' D x 8' H
AVR Denon X4500h
Speakers 7.2.4
Both Subs in front stage 6 feet apart (can't move)
AVR/XT32 Calibrated
One Port Open
EQ1
Phase 0
Q3
Crossover Out/AVR 80Hz
100% for Movies

I just want to know if I made any major setting mistake on my part. As mentioned, I can't move these subs as I have no room and they also serve as stands for my front.
In the AVR, set the LFE to 120Hz. Set speaker crossover to 80Hz or around 20Hz above the speaker's lowest frequency response spec - if your speaker's range is 60Hz - 24KHz for example... even if the speaker goes down to 50Hz, I'd still do 80Hz to give the speaker more breathing room. If the speaker's lowest spec is 65Hz, go with a 90Hz crossover setting.

Crossover settings for centre, and surrounds are typically set higher than the mains, but if you can set it the same as your mains, that's perfectly fine Some people will set their centre to 100Hz, and most set their surrounds to 120Hz because neither of those speaker types need to be able to output a lot of bass since the centre is mainly for dialog, and the surrounds don't really emit a lot of information altogether. Heights/Atmos generally is set to 150Hz, but again... if you're using speakers that can handle a lower crossover, that's fine.

Make sure the frequency knob on the back of both subs are turned to their max. I would also bring the centre speaker forward so that its front edge is lined up with the front edge of your tv stand. For your main bookshelf speakers, if you have a budget to put them on small risers, and have them also as far forward as possible, that would be a good idea, too. If not, you probably want to decouple the speakers from the subwoofers, which means either finding isolation pads or feet you can stick to the bottom of your speakers (if you do feel like getting risers, you'd probably want to decouple from the subs regardless by using isolation pads).
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post #9163 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 02:37 PM
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In the AVR, set the LFE to 120Hz. Set speaker crossover to 80Hz or around 20Hz above the speaker's lowest frequency response spec - if your speaker's range is 60Hz - 24KHz for example... even if the speaker goes down to 50Hz, I'd still do 80Hz to give the speaker more breathing room. If the speaker's lowest spec is 65Hz, go with a 90Hz crossover setting.

Crossover settings for centre, and surrounds are typically set higher than the mains, but if you can set it the same as your mains, that's perfectly fine Some people will set their centre to 100Hz, and most set their surrounds to 120Hz because neither of those speaker types need to be able to output a lot of bass since the centre is mainly for dialog, and the surrounds don't really emit a lot of information altogether. Heights/Atmos generally is set to 150Hz, but again... if you're using speakers that can handle a lower crossover, that's fine.

Make sure the frequency knob on the back of both subs are turned to their max. I would also bring the centre speaker forward so that its front edge is lined up with the front edge of your tv stand. For your main bookshelf speakers, if you have a budget to put them on small risers, and have them also as far forward as possible, that would be a good idea, too. If not, you probably want to decouple the speakers from the subwoofers, which means either finding isolation pads or feet you can stick to the bottom of your speakers (if you do feel like getting risers, you'd probably want to decouple from the subs regardless by using isolation pads).
I'd prefer to keep the crossover for the center at 80Hz or lower, to cover the bottom of the adult male voice range. (I don't want voices shifting between the center and the sub, even if localization isn't strong.) That's assuming it is possible. I presume that it's a bad idea to manually set the crossover below that determined by the room correction software.
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post #9164 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 03:18 PM
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I'd prefer to keep the crossover for the center at 80Hz or lower, to cover the bottom of the adult male voice range. (I don't want voices shifting between the center and the sub, even if localization isn't strong.) That's assuming it is possible. I presume that it's a bad idea to manually set the crossover below that determined by the room correction software.
I bounce around just to see how things sound, but I honestly haven't been able to tell anything whether the centre is at 80Hz or 100Hz My ears aren't attuned enough, I don't think. Right now, I have it set to 80Hz for mains, 90Hz for centre, 100Hz for surrounds.

I think that would be true if it determines a 40-60Hz, and sometimes it sets it lower than what the speaker is capable of doing (Audyssey set the crossover of my RTiA3s to 40Hz when they are only spec'd to 50Hz). Sometimes, though, the room correction software is horribly wrong with its crossover determination. I've had AccuEQ and Audyssey set my RTiA1s at 120Hz even though they're spec'd to go down to 60Hz.

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post #9165 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 04:36 PM
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I think that would be true if it determines a 40-60Hz, and sometimes it sets it lower than what the speaker is capable of doing (Audyssey set the crossover of my RTiA3s to 40Hz when they are only spec'd to 50Hz). Sometimes, though, the room correction software is horribly wrong with its crossover determination. I've had AccuEQ and Audyssey set my RTiA1s at 120Hz even though they're spec'd to go down to 60Hz.
Keep in mind Audyssey doesn't actually set the frequencies of your crossovers .... your receiver (manufacturer and model) decides what to do with the measured frequency response information from Audyssey that it gets from your room. Very common for speakers to measure as being capable of a lower frequency response than their official specs, but that it simply due to your room's boundary reinforcement coming into play boosting their low frequency performance. But, it should be very questionable that it would measure a speaker at a much higher crossover than it's spec. I would question if there were some sort of room speaker placement issue, phase issue or just a bad reading from the initial mic's measurement position....
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post #9166 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 05:07 PM
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What's your definition of "normal volume" though? I've seen people who think -10MV is normal while others feel it's -30MV. It isn't atypical to find that more volume is necessary to wake up the amp than is required to prevent it going back into standby mode. If you upped the volume to a higher level than you generally listen does it still remain in standby, or is switching it to on the only way to wake it up?
Last time we used the theater my kids were watching, so it was probably set to -20MV or so. But still, I would have thought it would be enough for it to kick on. Next time I go down there I'll experiment with setting it a little louder and see when it comes on. I just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with the sub.

Home Theater: Marantz SR6012, Emotiva A-5175, Fronts: Paradigm Titans, Center: Paradigm CC-370, Sides and Rears: Micca M-6S, Ceiling Atmos: Micca M-6R, Sub: HUS VTF-3.5
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post #9167 of 9197 Old 03-24-2020, 05:57 PM
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I just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with the sub.
That's wise, I would do the same myself.

 
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post #9168 of 9197 Old 03-25-2020, 11:56 AM
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I have two VTF-MK5-HP'S in my game room with the same issues with not wanting to run on when in standby mode as well. When I know we are going to be using the room I will turn them on and leave them on until I remember to turn the off again...lol

The four VFT-15H I have in the theater dont seem to have this issue.

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post #9169 of 9197 Old 03-25-2020, 03:22 PM
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I have two VTF-MK5-HP'S in my game room with the same issues with not wanting to run on when in standby mode as well. When I know we are going to be using the room I will turn them on and leave them on until I remember to turn the off again...lol

The four VFT-15H I have in the theater dont seem to have this issue.
My VTF-3 Mk5s sometimes don't turn on with some material.

One thing I haven't tried is a Y adapter to feed the signal to both line level inputs. They are summed, so that would effectively double the input signal.
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post #9170 of 9197 Old 03-25-2020, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t30t28t16t12 View Post
Hello All/Kevin,
I brought home a couple of VTF2-MK5. Attached picture is my current set-up.

Room size: 10' W x 14' D x 8' H
AVR Denon X4500h
Speakers 7.2.4
Both Subs in front stage 6 feet apart (can't move)
AVR/XT32 Calibrated
One Port Open
EQ1
Phase 0
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Crossover Out/AVR 80Hz
100% for Movies

I just want to know if I made any major setting mistake on my part. As mentioned, I can't move these subs as I have no room and they also serve as stands for my front.

Attachment 2701342
Those settings look fine to me. Just to echo what Ryan said, 120 Hz for an LFE output is a good setting to have as well. Where did you end up setting the volume on the subs?

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Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
Last time we used the theater my kids were watching, so it was probably set to -20MV or so. But still, I would have thought it would be enough for it to kick on. Next time I go down there I'll experiment with setting it a little louder and see when it comes on. I just want to make sure there's nothing wrong with the sub.
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Originally Posted by WOKNROX View Post
I have two VTF-MK5-HP'S in my game room with the same issues with not wanting to run on when in standby mode as well. When I know we are going to be using the room I will turn them on and leave them on until I remember to turn the off again...lol

The four VFT-15H I have in the theater dont seem to have this issue.
Different things can impact when the subs trigger. If you're using a low LFE level setting, that may keep the subs auto function from triggering. Using a lower crossover setting can cause that as well. If the auto function isn't triggering, just leave it in the on position. You don't have to flip power switch on the subs to the off position. It's not much different than using the subs in the auto position in terms of power draw, etc.
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post #9171 of 9197 Old 03-25-2020, 07:52 PM
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[QUOTE=HsuKevin;59410806]Those settings look fine to me. Just to echo what Ryan said, 120 Hz for an LFE output is a good setting to have as well. Where did you end up setting the volume on the subs?



Yes. AVR set to 120Hz and my AVR calibrated volume knob around 7 o'clock. AVR run +3 Hot.
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post #9172 of 9197 Old 03-25-2020, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
(snip)

Different things can impact when the subs trigger. If you're using a low LFE level setting, that may keep the subs auto function from triggering. Using a lower crossover setting can cause that as well. If the auto function isn't triggering, just leave it in the on position. You don't have to flip power switch on the subs to the off position. It's not much different than using the subs in the auto position in terms of power draw, etc.
Do you have any numbers on what power your subs draw while powered on with no signal present?

Mainly curious, although I may leave them on if the draw is low enough (VTF-3 Mk5 X2).
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post #9173 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Do you have any numbers on what power your subs draw while powered on with no signal present?

Mainly curious, although I may leave them on if the draw is low enough (VTF-3 Mk5 X2).
I was also curious so I took a measurement with a kill-a-watt that I have. When the VTF-3 MK5 is in standby, it draws 16.9W. Interestingly, when i switch it to on, the power draw remains unchanged at 16.9W. Is this expected behavior? If yes, then what is the difference between leaving it in auto/standby, and leaving it always on?

Home Theater: Marantz SR6012, Emotiva A-5175, Fronts: Paradigm Titans, Center: Paradigm CC-370, Sides and Rears: Micca M-6S, Ceiling Atmos: Micca M-6R, Sub: HUS VTF-3.5
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post #9174 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 08:06 AM
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I've left my sub amps "on" for 5-6 years now. Mine are older SvS subs with Bash amps

Video Samsung UN65KS8000, Sony UBP-UX80
Audio Denon X4500H, PSA MTM-210T, MTM-210C, MT-110 X2, SVS PB12NSD & SVS PB1-ISD (Subs soon to be upgraded)
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post #9175 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
When the VTF-3 MK5 is in standby, it draws 16.9W. Interestingly, when i switch it to on, the power draw remains unchanged at 16.9W. Is this expected behavior? If yes, then what is the difference between leaving it in auto/standby, and leaving it always on?
To paraphrase @HsuKevin (please correct me if I've misspoken!) said that there isn't really any difference in power draw whether you leave it on or auto on.

I just leave my ULS-15 MK2 on all the time - it at least saves me from having to get up every so often to flip the switch to re-establish a signal. In my experience, the auto on thing is great in concept, but all of the subs I've had (which isn't very many) have all had the issue where it'll just stop emitting a signal, so I just leave it on at all times (and try to to remember to turn it off if I go away on vacation for 2 weeks).
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Home Theatre: Marantz SR6014 | Polk Audio RTi A3 Front L/R | Polk Audio CSi A6 Centre | Polk Audio RTi A1 Surround L/R | HSU ULS-15 MK2 Subwoofer | Sony XBR55X900E | PlayStation 4 Pro | Xbox One S | Nintendo Switch

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post #9176 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
I was also curious so I took a measurement with a kill-a-watt that I have. When the VTF-3 MK5 is in standby, it draws 16.9W. Interestingly, when i switch it to on, the power draw remains unchanged at 16.9W. Is this expected behavior? If yes, then what is the difference between leaving it in auto/standby, and leaving it always on?
Can it be that the "auto" mode is purely a marketing feature (shared by most powered subs)? That's unexpected.

I hope that Kevin can comment.
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post #9177 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t30t28t16t12 View Post
Yes. AVR set to 120Hz and my AVR calibrated volume knob around 7 o'clock. AVR run +3 Hot.
Looks good to me. How are they sounding?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueWRXPride View Post
I was also curious so I took a measurement with a kill-a-watt that I have. When the VTF-3 MK5 is in standby, it draws 16.9W. Interestingly, when i switch it to on, the power draw remains unchanged at 16.9W. Is this expected behavior? If yes, then what is the difference between leaving it in auto/standby, and leaving it always on?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Do you have any numbers on what power your subs draw while powered on with no signal present?

Mainly curious, although I may leave them on if the draw is low enough (VTF-3 Mk5 X2).
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobknavs View Post
Can it be that the "auto" mode is purely a marketing feature (shared by most powered subs)? That's unexpected.

I hope that Kevin can comment.
Good questions. Roughly around 15w is about right. That is the expected behavior in terms of auto and on. Auto just initiates the mute circuit. The main benefit of the auto function, as designed, is to give you an idea if it's receiving a signal. Really the amount of power it draws outside of that initial base amount is dependent on how much output the sub is producing. I'm not sure how other sub amps are designed. That being said, one of the things we are working on with the 2x15 (we're still planning on releasing that), is a new auto function which will cut down on the power usage when the auto mute function is used.
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post #9178 of 9197 Old 03-26-2020, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HsuKevin View Post
(snip)


Good questions. Roughly around 15w is about right. That is the expected behavior in terms of auto and on. Auto just initiates the mute circuit. The main benefit of the auto function, as designed, is to give you an idea if it's receiving a signal. Really the amount of power it draws outside of that initial base amount is dependent on how much output the sub is producing. I'm not sure how other sub amps are designed. That being said, one of the things we are working on with the 2x15 (we're still planning on releasing that), is a new auto function which will cut down on the power usage when the auto mute function is used.
Thanks. I would never have guessed.
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post #9179 of 9197 Old 03-29-2020, 10:39 PM
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I have had my eye on a VTF-3 MK5 and have been waiting for a sale for a while now. Well... it is on sale now. A whopping 3.75% off. Maybe I will keep looking.

Wait for a Rythmic sale or B-Stock. At least their shipping is built in.

Last week the VTF-15H MK2 was $50 off and I considered it but it's almost twice the cost in shipping.

A SVS PB-2000 is $100 off right now with free shipping even.
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post #9180 of 9197 Old 03-30-2020, 02:42 AM
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I have had my eye on a VTF-3 MK5 and have been waiting for a sale for a while now. Well... it is on sale now. A whopping 3.75% off. Maybe I will keep looking.

Wait for a Rythmic sale or B-Stock. At least their shipping is built in.

Last week the VTF-15H MK2 was $50 off and I considered it but it's almost twice the cost in shipping.

A SVS PB-2000 is $100 off right now with free shipping even.
It's pretty simple: If you prefer not to know how much you're paying for S&H, don't buy a Hsu sub.
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