Official Epik Subwoofer Thread - Page 684 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20491 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 04:41 PM
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I have the Empire.
And a lot of what you said is Greek to me unfortunately. I wouldn't know how to replace and amp, unless it was a plug & play type thing.

Currently in the "Design" Phase of my new Theater build

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post #20492 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 04:57 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaleMoana View Post
I have the Empire.
And a lot of what you said is Greek to me unfortunately. I wouldn't know how to replace and amp, unless it was a plug & play type thing.
Even the part about contacting @daveds50 ?

The amp is the plate where the switches and knobs are. It comes off with tools. You disconnect the wires from the terminals and send the amp to daveds50. He repairs. You pay. He sends back. You reconnect amp and use tools to put it back in place. Done.

It gets a little harder after that because the stock plate amp isn't around nor do I remember anyone finding an exact fit but you'd have to read back into the pages of this thread to check. You can also seal up the cavity and run leads to a dedicated sub amplifier like an iNuke1000dsp or similar. Doubtful the drivers are bad, just the amp.

Good luck.
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post #20493 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 06:56 PM
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Thanks! I'll definitely look up Dave.

Currently in the "Design" Phase of my new Theater build

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post #20494 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 07:50 PM
 
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No problem, but now that I think about it the wires were not connected by connectors but rather had to cut the wires and butt splice the leads to the new amp (my Empire amp failed before Chad closed the doors). So the tools are philips for the screws on the plate amp plus wire cutter/stripper/crimp tool(s). I have a faint memory of daveds50 may have signed up recently for a commercial quantities deal where he is putting side repairs like this aside for a while but I'm not sure....
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post #20495 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 09:14 PM
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The Empire does actually have a fuse, at least both of mine did. The fuse is located right below where the power cord plugs in. There is a black plastic cover, pry it up with a screwdriver and pull up the fuse tray. Worth checking that first before you take the whole amp out and send it in
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post #20496 of 21031 Old 02-21-2015, 09:57 PM
 
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Just checked mine and no cover/panel/fuse underneath the plug....wonder if my original amp did? Don't remember a fuse....
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post #20497 of 21031 Old 02-22-2015, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovinthehd View Post
No problem, but now that I think about it the wires were not connected by connectors but rather had to cut the wires and butt splice the leads to the new amp (my Empire amp failed before Chad closed the doors). So the tools are philips for the screws on the plate amp plus wire cutter/stripper/crimp tool(s). I have a faint memory of daveds50 may have signed up recently for a commercial quantities deal where he is putting side repairs like this aside for a while but I'm not sure....
Wire strippers are simple enough. No problem there.
As long as I can use wire twist connectors to hook it back up. I'd rather not have to solder if possible.

Then again.... I guess I'll do whatever I gotta do. Cheaper than buying a new amp.

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post #20498 of 21031 Old 02-22-2015, 04:47 AM
 
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Believe there's also an Empire amp for sale in the classifieds area....
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post #20499 of 21031 Old 03-08-2015, 09:33 AM
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I have an Epik Sentinel that just started acting up. Sometime I turn it on, and the power light does not come on. If I unplug the power and the audio from the LFE jack for a few minutes, then try again, then it works. After several minutes, the sub stops working again.

Any suggestions?
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post #20500 of 21031 Old 03-08-2015, 09:56 AM
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I always start by looking at the caps on the power supply.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harync View Post
I have an Epik Sentinel that just started acting up. Sometime I turn it on, and the power light does not come on. If I unplug the power and the audio from the LFE jack for a few minutes, then try again, then it works. After several minutes, the sub stops working again.

Any suggestions?

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post #20501 of 21031 Old 03-08-2015, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harync View Post
I have an Epik Sentinel that just started acting up. Sometime I turn it on, and the power light does not come on. If I unplug the power and the audio from the LFE jack for a few minutes, then try again, then it works. After several minutes, the sub stops working again.

Any suggestions?
Buy a Behringer iNuke Amp. I got the iNuke 6000DSP for my 2 Epik Empires. Very happy.
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post #20502 of 21031 Old 03-09-2015, 12:07 PM
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Hello, I was previously a member here but forgot my login email/details so have joined up again.

I have an Epik Valor that I want to take back to the UK with me but I cannot figure out if it will work on 220/240v?

Does anyone know by chance?

There doesn't appear to be any voltage switch on it anywhere and i don't want to open her up unless I have to.

Cheers!
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post #20503 of 21031 Old 03-12-2015, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger View Post
I always start by looking at the caps on the power supply.
Opened it up and the caps looked fine, so I ordered some fuses. Replaced the fuse and it seems to be doing okay so far.
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post #20504 of 21031 Old 03-13-2015, 10:56 PM
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Exclamation Empire caught fire.

I loved the sub when it was working, glad it was sealed well because it snuffed its own fire.

I would look for someone to repair if it didn't catch fire. So anyone know how to find a replacement or what the original manufacture and amp name it was so I can pick one up. Love for any old Epik people to chime in, I know its out of warranty even if the business did still exist. Maybe someone has an amp in a garage that never got fitted or something when they constructed these subs. I loved this sub and always praised it because I never turned it up past 50% and was rock solid.
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post #20505 of 21031 Old 03-17-2015, 04:21 PM
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The Behringer iNuke series amps are a fantastic value with more than enough power for my Epik subs. If you buy one to replace your failed plate amp(s), make sure to register it right away.

If you don't register the amp with Behringer right away the 3-year warranty they advertise is reduced to 1-year.
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post #20506 of 21031 Old 03-17-2015, 05:49 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
The Behringer iNuke series amps are a fantastic value with more than enough power for my Epik subs. If you buy one to replace your failed plate amp(s), make sure to register it right away.

If you don't register the amp with Behringer right away the 3-year warranty they advertise is reduced to 1-year.
That valid under US law?

or is warranty more state law?

Last edited by lovinthehd; 03-17-2015 at 05:53 PM.
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post #20507 of 21031 Old 03-17-2015, 06:08 PM
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That valid under US law?

or is warranty more state law?
It's BS is what it is. Apparently it's something they started in 2012.

In the fine print on their warranty webpage it says it. They refer to it as a "warranty extension" to 3-years...so that's probably how they get around it.

I bought mine in October and found out about required registration for 3-year warranty last week. Behringer agreed to extend my warranty to 3-year and I have email proof if I have issues.

Requiring registration is completely understandable. All they need to do is simply put "registration required" on all their materials and not try to hide it, especially when they advertise 3-year warranty so heavily.
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post #20508 of 21031 Old 03-17-2015, 07:00 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
It's BS is what it is. Apparently it's something they started in 2012.

In the fine print on their warranty webpage it says it. They refer to it as a "warranty extension" to 3-years...so that's probably how they get around it.

I bought mine in October and found out about required registration for 3-year warranty last week. Behringer agreed to extend my warranty to 3-year and I have email proof if I have issues.

Requiring registration is completely understandable. All they need to do is simply put "registration required" on all their materials and not try to hide it, especially when they advertise 3-year warranty so heavily.
Well that's probably part of the problem, the workings of when they require registration....afaik there is no requirement to register to make valid your warranty but perhaps the incentive to do a 3 year from one year with that simple up front notification would be absolutely no issue as you say. Fricking marketing/sales people drive me crazy sometimes....I can hear it now how this would make it easier for them to sell. Keyword them.
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post #20509 of 21031 Old 04-01-2015, 06:34 PM
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Can someone tell me where the fuse is. I dont see it. I know someone said it was by the power plug....



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post #20510 of 21031 Old 04-01-2015, 06:34 PM
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Can someone tell me where the fuse is. I dont see it. I know someone said it was by the power plug....



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post #20511 of 21031 Old 04-01-2015, 07:35 PM
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your 2nd pic, that black rectangular thing pulls out and in there is the fuse, there might even be a spare in there too

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Damn still no power
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post #20513 of 21031 Old 05-19-2015, 11:54 AM
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Epik Empire connected to Behringer iNuke

Dreamliner, can you tell me how you have connected your Receiver to your iNuke amp, and then to your Epik Empire? My Epik plate amp is dead, so I'm considering the same solution. How are you converting the RCA subwoofer out connection to 1/4 inch phone input into the amp? Also, are you running the amp bridged, or one side only goes into the Epik? And what DSP adjustments are you making on the iNuke? Thanks for your help.
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Connecting a Behringer iNuke amp to Epik Empire

My Epik plate amp is dead, so I'm considering a Behringer iNuke 3000DSP or some other external amp. Several folks here seem to be doing this. Can someone explain how I would convert the RCA subwoofer out connection on my Onkyo Receiver to the 1/4 inch phone input into the amp? Also, are you running the amp bridged, or one side only goes into the Epik? And what DSP adjustments are you making on the iNuke? I've removed the plate amp and disconnected the speaker cable, so I'm good with running those to the amp speaker cable connections, just need help with the rest. Thanks for your help.
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post #20515 of 21031 Old 05-19-2015, 01:06 PM
 
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As far as connection get an rca to either xlr or trs cable, just google. I'd think you could do well with a single channel but haven't had to go this route (yet).
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post #20516 of 21031 Old 05-20-2015, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeldlewis View Post
Dreamliner, can you tell me how you have connected
You've got to quote people so they know your trying to talk to them.

The iNukes are great amplifiers. The 6000 is essentially 2 bridged 3000's. My 6000 is running 2 Empires and my 6000 gain knob is at about "10 o-clock" and my Audyssey calibrated level came in at -4dB, so plenty of power.

MAKE SURE YOU REGISTER THE WARRANTY RIGHT AWAY ON THE BEHRINGER TO GET THE 3 YEAR WARRANTY OTHERWISE THEY ONLY WARRANTY IT FOR 1 YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have mine setup as 1 channel per sub, but if you get the 3000, you could bridge it if you only have 1 sub.

I have not yet configured my DSP, I just volume matched in Audyssey.

Basically, instead of a RCA cable going to your sub, you'll need a speaker wire instead. I just took my plate amp off, used 2 spade connectors to terminate the subwoofer wire that I cut off the plate amp. Then I used 2 more spade connectors for the speaker cable at the subwoofer and used a terminal strip to connect the two. This way I can easily disconnect the subwoofer from the wire if I ever need to. (I tried looking for a cable mount solution where I could use banana plugs on the speaker wire side and "female banana plugs" on the subwoofer side, but couldn't find anything. Ideally, I'd like to make a blank metal plate to replace the plate amp and mount a banana plug receptacle on it, but the following works just great.)

IF THE ENCLOSURE IS SEALED OFF FROM THE AMP AND YOU COMPLETELY REMOVE YOUR OLD PLATE AMP:
(Some subs need the plate in place to complete the seal, the Empires has MDF around the amp so I completely removed them)
If you completely physically remove the Epik amp: Use a "terminal strip" like this at the subs:


If you completely physically remove the Epik amp: Use "spade connectors" like this at the sub:


ALTERNATIVE #1
If you physically leave your old Epik Amp in place and it has speaker terminals and you can re-purpose those then I'd do that. It will then have the same type of connectivity as your other speakers.
(If you do this option, you do not need the terminal strip or spade connectors)
(You also might need to make the speaker wires longer for this option, so check before ordering)

ALTERNATIVE #2
If you physically leave your old Epik Amp in place, you can remove one of the XLR connectors on the plate and replace it with a "Speakon Panel Mount":
(If you do this option, you do not need the terminal strip or spade connectors)
(You also might need to make the speaker wires longer for this option, so check before ordering)


Buy "Speakon connectors" like these for the amp end of the speaker wire:


The Behringer uses 1/4" TRS connectors, so you'll need adapters from your RCA preouts on your receiver.

If you want one simple cable, It will look like this and is called a "1/4 TS to Male RCA" cable:


If you already have RCA cables, get and adapter like this:


I have 2 subwoofer outputs on my receiver so I used 2 of these cables/adapters. Since you only have 1 sub, you only need 1 cable. If you get the 3000 with only 1 sub, I think you could run 1 cable to the amplifier and configure the DSP to BRIDGE mode. Manual page 7: http://www.behringer.com/assets/NU60...00DSP_M_EN.pdf.

If you ever run 2 subs, using 2 cables is less confusing if your receiver has 2 outputs. My amp is operating is DUAL mode (Page 7).

All these links/pics I've sent are not the exact one to buy, just what I could quickly find to show you what your looking for. Also, none of the pics are "to scale".

It isn't hard, just be patient.

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post #20517 of 21031 Old 05-21-2015, 08:31 PM
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Is a dead empire worth anything to anyone?
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If you were within driving distance I'd pickup the box and drivers....make a nice start on a pseudo diy sub. You near Eugene OR by any chance? Assuming all that's dead is the amp....
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post #20519 of 21031 Old 05-22-2015, 12:09 AM
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Official Epik Subwoofer Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyTom83 View Post
Is a dead empire worth anything to anyone?
It's probably just a dead plate amp like everyone else. Your better off buying a Behringer iNuke amplifier and following my directions above. The cost of the Empire + Behringer is still better than the competition. (Your only $250 away from it working again).

Knowing what I know now, I would have paid the same price for the subwoofers without a built in amplifier.
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post #20520 of 21031 Old 05-23-2015, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
It's probably just a dead plate amp like everyone else. Your better off buying a Behringer iNuke amplifier and following my directions above. The cost of the Empire + Behringer is still better than the competition. (Your only $250 away from it working again).

Knowing what I know now, I would have paid the same price for the subwoofers without a built in amplifier.

Thanks, I am aware the amp is dead. I just don't want to bother with using an external amp. I am looking to see if it is worth selling this thing with a dead amp or not. I plan on buying a pair of HSU Research VTF15HMk2's. I was trying to get others opinions if I would be able to sell it or not with a dead amp and if so what is a fair price to sell it?
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