Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 528 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15811 of 15837 Old 11-24-2017, 10:06 PM
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Looks like my A5-350 finally bit the dust.

I have similar symptoms as NOAMattD...amber light and very warm.

Any recommendations on a course of action? Can my LT500 be salvaged?

*edit*

This morning when I turned it on, I still got an amber light, but it powered on and seemed to be functioning, although the amp got warm/hot quickly. I powered it down to avoid potential damage. There are some black/scorched areas on one of the PCBs.

I saw the comments about a possible bad driver. Each coil measures about 2.5 ohms. Does that mean my driver is OK and i just need to repair/replace the LT500?

If so, looks like the Yung SD500 500W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier would be an easy drop-in replacement for $189. Don't know how this compares to repair cost.

Last edited by speedbump; 11-27-2017 at 07:20 PM. Reason: Update
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post #15812 of 15837 Old 12-02-2017, 10:37 PM
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Still using a downfiring A5-350 and it’s been doing fine...however I ran a bass sweep test and didn’t get pretty much any output below 35 Hz. I know at the time of release these subs were said to hit below 20 Hz, so am I experiencing an age related loss in performance or were the stats inflated? Could I have a setting wrong somewhere?

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post #15813 of 15837 Old 12-27-2017, 12:26 PM
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Help with old ED LT 550

I guess this is a question for Dave, but any input is great. I have an Elemental Designs LT 550 that recently goes into standby mode (green to red light) when watching movies only. TV and music it still works. Thoughts? Can it be saved? Thanks
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post #15814 of 15837 Old 02-07-2018, 11:24 AM
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Hey guys I have a question about my a2-300.. I have a noticeable sound at 40hz thats driving me crazy. I always chalked it up to it rattling a picture frame or something or one of the things my girl hangs on the wall. Well today i was sitting around watching a movie and the sound drove me crazy, i dont always get the sound but the movie i was watching definitely had it. So i went to youtube and went down the frequency test videos until i got to 40 hz and this was the only freq where the sound was reproduced. My sub is sitting Auralex SubDude. Is it a shortcoming in the driver or a possible setting issue?

edit: disregard my post the screws for the front port where really loose. solved the problem
really impressed with how long this sub has been going strong

Last edited by ironcobra; 02-07-2018 at 12:09 PM.
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post #15815 of 15837 Old 02-08-2018, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump View Post
Looks like my A5-350 finally bit the dust.

I have similar symptoms as NOAMattD...amber light and very warm.

Any recommendations on a course of action? Can my LT500 be salvaged?

*edit*

This morning when I turned it on, I still got an amber light, but it powered on and seemed to be functioning, although the amp got warm/hot quickly. I powered it down to avoid potential damage. There are some black/scorched areas on one of the PCBs.

I saw the comments about a possible bad driver. Each coil measures about 2.5 ohms. Does that mean my driver is OK and i just need to repair/replace the LT500?

If so, looks like the Yung SD500 500W Class D Subwoofer Plate Amplifier would be an easy drop-in replacement for $189. Don't know how this compares to repair cost.
I use the Yung amp for one of mine and it works great! I also put a TC Sounds driver in it.

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post #15816 of 15837 Old 02-16-2018, 01:45 PM
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Glad to see this thread alive. I pulled out my A2-300 out of storage to setup my new theater and it is working great. I actually see someone selling one 2 hours from me and am tempted to buy and have a matching pair.
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post #15817 of 15837 Old 02-18-2018, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by asr10user View Post
Glad to see this thread alive. I pulled out my A2-300 out of storage to setup my new theater and it is working great. I actually see someone selling one 2 hours from me and am tempted to buy and have a matching pair.
Go for it! Totally worth it. I just purchased a second a5-350 that I had to replace the driver on, but was still worth it. I now have dual a5-350's with extended ports and TC Sounds drivers in them. They sound incredible.

I also self Turbo'd some MFW-15's with Legacy Audio drivers I got from Parts Express, extended the ports, and powering them by an iNuke 3000 DSP, plus I have an Outlaw LFM-1EX with ports i extended and added an extra cross brace. Freaking love repurposed old subs no one wants. [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.avsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG] I'm easily getting the performance of multiple PB-13 Ultras with this setup. Great performance to 10hz.

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post #15818 of 15837 Old 02-18-2018, 06:12 PM
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After the demise of Infinity 1260W, what is the appropriate matching driver for A2-300.
I replaced 1260W in one of my original A2-300. Subsequently I acquired another A2-300 but by then 1260w disappeared from the market.
The second sub is still with original driver and I would like to replace it.
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post #15819 of 15837 Old 02-19-2018, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post
After the demise of Infinity 1260W, what is the appropriate matching driver for A2-300.
I replaced 1260W in one of my original A2-300. Subsequently I acquired another A2-300 but by then 1260w disappeared from the market.
The second sub is still with original driver and I would like to replace it.
This would work perfectly.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-467

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post #15820 of 15837 Old 02-19-2018, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
Thanks.
But why do we need DVC? Or the coils should be wired serially?
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post #15821 of 15837 Old 02-20-2018, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
Thanks.
But why do we need DVC? Or the coils should be wired serially?
Not sure, but this driver does work perfectly in smaller boxes. The sub you have is considered on the smaller end.

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post #15822 of 15837 Old 03-05-2018, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
Not sure, but this driver does work perfectly in smaller boxes. The sub you have is considered on the smaller end.
I too am looking for a replacement driver for an A2-300

That PE driver in the link is a dual 4ohm speaker so wouldn't that be either 8 or 2 ohms depending on how you wire it unless you only connect 1 voice coil? I have always read not to do that.

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Last edited by typ44q; 03-05-2018 at 11:14 AM.
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post #15823 of 15837 Old 03-07-2018, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typ44q View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post
Not sure, but this driver does work perfectly in smaller boxes. The sub you have is considered on the smaller end.
I too am looking for a replacement driver for an A2-300

That PE driver in the link is a dual 4ohm speaker so wouldn't that be either 8 or 2 ohms depending on how you wire it unless you only connect 1 voice coil? I have always read not to do that.
Yes, you are correct. I don't know how I missed that, sorry about that!

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post #15824 of 15837 Old 05-13-2018, 01:12 PM
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Just picked up an A3-300 for $100, it has a KG-5230 plate amp.

I assume this amp was an aftermarket and is not prone to catching fires? lol

I like turtles.
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post #15825 of 15837 Old 05-13-2018, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by combos99 View Post
Just picked up an A3-300 for $100, it has a KG-5230 plate amp.

I assume this amp was an aftermarket and is not prone to catching fires? lol

that amp is from the early days of eD, commonly referred to an LT350. those are the amps that most parts for it are now obsolete. and at the age of that amp, i would not expect it to last very much longer.

unfortunately, because of the lack of parts availability, once it breaks, there is not much of a chance it can be fixed.

i still take LT200, LT300, and LT500's in because the parts are still used in modern amps and still available. but the older Kiega based LT200 with the big heatsink, LT350 and LT550 have no parts anymore.

so, if it ever breaks, go shopping for replacement amps.

the modern LT500's are the ones that some of them do a flameout... thats because one of the capacitors used that burns is a Chinese cap with questionable specs. the fix is to replace it with a quality non-Chinese cap of the same value, and all works well. this problem is not exclusive to eD amps though... many of the amps i service of many brands have the same problem. thats the cost of buying Chinese amps though. you get what you pay for.
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post #15826 of 15837 Old 05-15-2018, 07:07 AM
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At the price I paid, I'm just glad it works at all. Really enjoying it so far, this thing can put out some nice low bass.

If the amp frys, Ill just hook it up to my Crown XLS1500.

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post #15827 of 15837 Old 06-12-2018, 04:30 PM
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Dave, I have an old LT-550, amp is shot. Any recommendations on a replacement amp that fits the enclosure and will pump out solid bass?
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post #15828 of 15837 Old 09-07-2018, 01:29 PM
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I have an A5-350 with the LT500 amp. I've noticed lately that there's no bass anymore. The amp does it's auto turn on and lights up green but whenever there's a call for bass, the amp turns red for a second or two then goes back to green. I can hear a pop every time it switches back and forth.

Is this an amp issue or driver issue? I can still hear/feel slight vibrations coming from the driver. I've already had the amp replaced by Dave before but at that time there was a yellow illuminated. Thanks
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post #15829 of 15837 Old 09-15-2018, 06:28 PM
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I have a A2 - 300 the LED is red when I plug it in to my receiver the fuse blows every time. Did I get the wrong fuses or is the amp dead?
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post #15830 of 15837 Old 09-16-2018, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Winkie069 View Post
I have a A2 - 300 the LED is red when I plug it in to my receiver the fuse blows every time. Did I get the wrong fuses or is the amp dead?
quit putting fuses in it and blowing them. the more you do that, the less likely that amp can be fixed. fuses do not blow for no reason.
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post #15831 of 15837 Old 10-05-2018, 05:16 PM
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Hopefully someone's still reading through here from time to time...
So my Ed LT500 sub had given up on me this week -

started two weeks ago, by clicking, LED on the back would turn amber than green than amber again, back than it would still play.
about a week ago it would not turn on again, LED would remain amber and that's it.


So today dissected it :


Sub itself measures ~5.8-6 Ohm, each VC is 2.9-3.1 Ohm per my multi meter.


No blown / swollen caps identified on the PCB


Any ideas what can this be?
how to fix?


is it even worth trying to get this beast to play again?
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post #15832 of 15837 Old 12-27-2018, 08:32 AM
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Well my amp on my a7s-450 finally went...no way in hell am I just buying a new sub, So off to Dave it went. I have had this thing for a long time and I love it, so why spend another 1k on a new sub. If the day comes when the driver goes, Ill replace that as well. Look at the number of posts on this thread..... there are a lot of us with the old ED subs. Too bad they didnt stay around.
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post #15833 of 15837 Old 02-26-2019, 10:48 AM
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After having an A5-350 for a long time, I started to experience an issue. During intense bass it sounds like the driver is blown. A couple of questions:

Any recommendations on a replacement driver?

How hard would it be to swap? Will I need to remove the amp to get to the back of the driver to replace?
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post #15834 of 15837 Old 07-17-2019, 09:12 AM
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Finally upgraded my AVR from 10 years to something modern with Atmos and HDMI. This got me to looking at my current setup, surprising enough, my dual A2-300's are still kicking 10 years later. I am looking at upgrading just because im in a larger space, but this makes me appreciate this company. I've pretty much been using them daily!
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post #15835 of 15837 Old 08-01-2019, 08:19 PM
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A2-300 LT200 help/repair

Hey guys dunno if this thread is still being monitored but I purchased an a2-300 about 8 or 9 years ago and I’ve loved it, but I’ve recently moved and when I setup my system at the new place now the sub will only play a little bit with the green light and then after a few minutes then the light goes amber and a minute later clicks off like it’s not receiving a signal. If I turn it off for an hour or so and turn it back on it does the same thing. If I leave it on and confit my system with no sub and send all bass to my main towers the sub light goes back red. I had a similar problem right after I bought it except it stopped completely and never recovered, I think back then it was an issue on my receiver auto calibration that adjusted the sub signal gain too high and blew something when I turned it up to test it watching U571. I sent it in to ED back then and they sent me a whole new amp. I lowered the gain to 0 and never had anymore problems for years until now. I really love the sub and would rather repair then buy new. Is @daveds50 still doing repairs? My amp say LT200 but doesn’t have the heat sink externally. Does this even sound like an amp problem or could it be driver?
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post #15836 of 15837 Old 08-01-2019, 09:57 PM
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Is @daveds50 still doing repairs?

yup. in business since 1998, and have contracts with more companies than ever, both all kinds of car and home amplifiers.

the only ones i cant take in, are some of the older amps that the parts have been obsolete for a long time.

but your LT200 without the heat sink is still a modern design being used by others, and parts are easily found.

i'll respond to your Facebook message.
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post #15837 of 15837 Old 08-12-2019, 06:00 AM
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your fuse is fine. the red light would not be on if the fuse is blown.

take a look at your amp and see if it is the LT200 with the big heat sink on the back or not. the one with the heat sink is the old amp, which there are no longer parts for. but if it is the smaller ( around 8 x 8 inches ) with no heat sink, then send a private message to me.
I have the old amp with heat sink on the outside. My subwoofer stopped working last week and i read this thread to find out my options. I know you mentioned there are no parts for this old amp. Is it still the case now or any options available at all?

I hate to trash the subwoofer after all these 12 yrs.
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