Cylindrical A-Lens Owner's Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 04:47 AM
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Unfortunately only 11'. Just wanted to see if this was an option. Room is probably too small...
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post #62 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Please define shorter throws?

Around 1.4. From what I have seen, with the JVCs, you would need the big ISCO. I wonder if this new design will accomodate the JVC at short throws.

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post #63 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

This thread was supposed to be a place that those with a cylindrical anamorphic lens could post their impressions and experiences, yet (and this could be just me) it seems to have become a Lens size pissing competition.

On the topic of chip size, the latest DLP offerings are also small at just 0.65". A considerable reduction to the previous 0.9" chips.

Going OT again do you think thats where its heading Mark, smaller chip sizes? Smaller Proj?

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post #64 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highjinx View Post

My Crystal Ball says....CAVX

No, I cant say to much just yet but hope to be able to very soon.
It is from a reliable vendor, top performance with nice features.
Ill ask for an update and pass it along once I get a reply. All of us would prefer a cylinder design and AVS members are price/performance conscience and Ive been waiting for someone to deliver something a little more affordable then whats currently available with no luck. I think this will hit the mark.
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post #65 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post


No, I cant say to much just yet but hope to be able to very soon.
It is from a reliable vendor, top performance with nice features.
Ill ask for an update and pass it along once I get a reply. All of us would prefer a cylinder design and AVS members are price/performance conscience and Ive been waiting for someone to deliver something a little more affordable then whats currently available with no luck. I think this will hit the mark.

Aussie Bob's??

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post #66 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawguy View Post

Around 1.4. From what I have seen, with the JVCs, you would need the big ISCO. I wonder if this new design will accomodate the JVC at short throws.

I'd be looking to reduce the screen size. If you work off the THX "36 degree" rule, then you would have to divide the room length by 3.68 to find the image height and then times that by 2.37 to find the screen width.

11 / (10 x 0.75) = TR of 1.46:1

It would be do-able, however your close to 2x the image height which whist good for HD, may not be so good for SD.



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Going OT again do you think thats where its heading Mark, smaller chip sizes? Smaller Proj?

Everything electronic is going smaller (except displays and that weird I-Pad thing), so yes I think once LED light engines are the norm, fans are no linger required, we will see some much smaller devices in the projector market.

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post #67 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post




Everything electronic is going smaller (except displays and that weird I-Pad thing), so yes I think once LED light engines are the norm, fans are no linger required, we will see some much smaller devices in the projector market.

That would be chassis and lens size?

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post #68 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franin View Post

That would be chassis and lens size?

Chassis size. Chip sets and lenses are as small as they can be for now. Take my BenQW5000. It is 500mm wide. If it ran off LED and not a UHP lamp (with fan), I guess the unit could be half the size. The large chassis were employed to allow quieter operation of the cooling system. Take away the need for a cooling system, and you don't need the size anymore.

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post #69 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Chassis size. Chip sets and lenses are as small as they can be for now. Take my BenQW5000. It is 500mm wide. If it ran off LED and not a UHP lamp (with fan), I guess the unit could be half the size. The large chassis were employed to allow quieter operation of the cooling system. Take away the need for a cooling system, and you don't need the size anymore.

I think LED lamps are not as cool running as we would like, seems like the few LED projectors out now are larger due to the additional cooling requirements.

If size reduction is a must an outboard lamp module, light tranmitted via fiber optics will keep the main projector size down, but I think manufacturers will keep the projectors of a particular size so they can charge accordingly due to the 'size' value factor.

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post #70 of 690 Old 07-24-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highjinx View Post

I think LED lamps are not as cool running as we would like, seems like the few LED projectors out now are larger due to the additional cooling requirements.

If size reduction is a must an outboard lamp module, light tranmitted via fiber optics will keep the main projector size down, but I think manufacturers will keep the projectors of a particular size so they can charge accordingly due to the 'size' value factor.

I was sent a link with a projector using an external light source. It looked like a neat idea. The light house was about the size (footprint) of an A4 piece of paper and the projector was about half the size. it apparently used optic fibre to send light.

Last year I got to meet a guy at SMPTE that claimed that he was a part of the "LED design committee" (if such a thing exists). He described the (at the time) current gen of of LED as arrays (say 20 Red, Green, Blue, Yellow and Magenta - he didn't mention Cyan per array) of LEDs where each LED could turn on/off independently. The arrays worked with a single DLP imaging chip. By the way he described it, it would explain to the size required for the chassis to physically contain these units.

I don't think LEDs generate heat as such. JVC gave me a single, very bright LED light for my keys. This is very bright, yet is cold to touch, unlike a traditional element lamp that produces heat and light. I still would like to see UHP lamp replacements made using these. If one LED is this bright, imagine 16 or so with a reflector behind them.

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post #71 of 690 Old 07-25-2010, 01:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franin View Post

Going OT again do you think thats where its heading Mark, smaller chip sizes? Smaller Proj?

Maybe for projector under $5K, but .95 chips are superior and are used on the higher end units. Its been proven sharpness is better with the .95's. The .65 chips certainly help with lens shift and have continued to improve with the passing generations of projector. Its just makes sense that the two will co-exist with upper and lower price regardless of light engine used.
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post #72 of 690 Old 07-25-2010, 01:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

No, I cant say to much just yet but hope to be able to very soon.
It is from a reliable vendor, top performance with nice features.
Ill ask for an update and pass it along once I get a reply. All of us would prefer a cylinder design and AVS members are price/performance conscience and Ive been waiting for someone to deliver something a little more affordable then whats currently available with no luck. I think this will hit the mark.

Intriguing. I would think CAVX would be more inline with the cost of current lenses, but you never know. No one has mentioned Panamorph and its been awhile since we had a new design or model from them. Prismasonic and AVS could be a possibility. We'll see. I think the Isco will hold its own, though. I must say, the Vango is getting more tempting by the minute.
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post #73 of 690 Old 07-25-2010, 03:12 AM
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Given we are back on topic, I thought I might post a screen cap (Arts fave) from Serenity.

Projector : BenQW5000
A-Lens : CAVX Aussiemorphic MK4
Screen : OzTS Acoustic Vison


LL

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post #74 of 690 Old 07-26-2010, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a paper with list of projector compatibility.
http://www.schneideroptics.com/proje...hrowratios.pdf
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post #75 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolrda View Post

Here's a paper with list of projector compatibility.
http://www.schneideroptics.com/proje...hrowratios.pdf

Thanks coolrda

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post #76 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 12:40 AM
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I seem to recall some time ago someone posted a useful installation guide for the Isco III on these forums. I haven't been able to find it, and would love it if someone could point me in the right direction. I recently purchased the used IIIL advertised on the forums to replace my UH480 I had paired to my RS20, and after some concern over finances, have decided to go ahead and keep it. I did the UH480 install myself, so I'm sure I can figure it out, but I know this is a more complicated install and would love to benefit from those that have gone before me. Thanks in advance for any help.
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post #77 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 02:27 AM
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I know of the post your referring to as I could not find it either.

If you can connect a PC to your projector, make yourself a single pixel line pattern using paint (set the pixel count to 1920 x 1080) and display it 1:1 on your projector. You can add as many focus and geometry points as you like. The key thing being that when the astigmatism adjustment is correct, both the horizontal and vertical lines will be the same intensity and sharpness and your image will as sharp corner to corner.

Once your lens is mounted correctly:

1. Start with the lens out of the light path, and focus the image as good as the projector's optics will allow.

2. Move the lens into the light path and observe any changes (apart from width) the lens has made.

3. Rock the front portion of the lens (rubber rings) to bring both the H and V lines into focus at the same time. There is no right or wrong final position here as this is based on TR and how the optics focus at the specific distance your projector/lens is away from the screen.

I seem to remember something in the post about "rocking the projector's focus" during this adjustment. I'm sure the original poster stated their reason for this, however I don't do this when aligning my lens. Simply put, if you follow the 3 steps above, the image is sharp with out the lens, so making the astigmatism adjustment should only be used to bring the image back to corner to corner focus as adding the anamorphic lens to the light path is the only change you have made. If you move the lens out of the light path (as many do for 16:9), then you don't want to have to touch the focus of the projector once everything is dialed in.

Hope that helps.
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post #78 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 02:51 AM
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Wasn't the original post by Noah Katz or maybe Getgrey?

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post #79 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 09:18 AM
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Mark, I have a simple question. On the ISCO lens there seems to be three rings. I have never seen one up close but you mention they are rubber. Do these need replacement? I would think after some time whether it is rubber or some synthetic material it would deteriorate with time and require replacement.
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post #80 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Mark, I have a simple question. On the ISCO lens there seems to be three rings. I have never seen one up close but you mention they are rubber. Do these need replacement? I would think after some time whether it is rubber or some synthetic material it would deteriorate with time and require replacement.

Let me jump in if I may. They are similar to O-rings. My guess is a synthetic rubber, used for gripping focus ring. I don't think replacement will ever be an issue.
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post #81 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Here how I setup mine. After projector is aligned and focused, I slid lens into place, set parallel to projector lens and tightened table mount. Next I displayed crosshatch and adjusted lens clockwise/counterclockwise in mount then tightened allen set screw. Next I turned the focus ring to set the proper aspect. As I adjust the focus the sides of the picture decrease towards the center without the overall picture height changing. At first I was adjusting to have the corners meet. After some time passed I realized that if you focus the four edges at the middle of each edge you will have the correct AR. These points are not effected by the pincushion distortion.
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post #82 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 03:02 PM
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Don't be just relying on your Screen's AR for this adjustment as at a really short TR, the AR of the final projected image would probably be wider then the screen. You want to ensure that the vertical lines are as sharp (why people like Vern Dias came up with using single 1080 rez display lines) as the horizontals. The H lines should not change due to the nature of the cylindrical optics, just the width of the V lines may be fatter than they should be if the focus adjustment is out.

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post #83 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I was doing some reading in an old thread and Alan stated he had a friend over, if I remember correctly, that was able to make a difference refocusing his 3L. Maybe Alan can give us more info concerning that process.
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post #84 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Don't be just relying on your Screen's AR for this adjustment as at a really short TR, the AR of the final projected image would probably be wider then the screen. You want to ensure that the vertical lines are as sharp (why people like Vern Dias came up with using single 1080 rez display lines) as the horizontals. The H lines should not change due to the nature of the cylindrical optics, just the width of the V lines may be fatter than they should be if the focus adjustment is out.

Ok. Though I did use a crosshatch pattern, It wasn't single pixel. Will look through my test disc as well as looking at pixel geometry. Looks like another adjusting session waits.
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post #85 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 03:23 PM
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Use a PC and create your own. It is remarkable how much more of a difference displaying single lines make verses doubles like on the JPK disc.

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post #86 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 04:03 PM
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The setup instructions mentioned previously are in the back of our CineSlide's manual.

www.techht.com, downloads link, CineSlide manual link....
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post #87 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 04:07 PM
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The rubber rings on the end of the IIIL are just there for gripping the lens. It has a firm focus mechanism, which is preferable as one doesn't want it moving on it's own from vibraions encountered in a HT setup. The Isco and Schneider lenses are also assembled in a high end clean room as one would expect, and their internals are sealed so no dust will ever get inside. we've sold a lot of them, I've ever encountered one whoes internal seal rings have failed. They are lubricated at assembly and anyway, it's not like a camera lens, you don't go fiddling with it. Once set it may never move again in it's lifetime.
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post #88 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Use a PC and create your own. It is remarkable how much more of a difference displaying single lines make verses doubles like on the JPK disc.

I have to say Mark the one I used is superb better than JPK.

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post #89 of 690 Old 07-27-2010, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

. Once set it may never move again in it's lifetime.

Unless you change projectors.

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post #90 of 690 Old 07-28-2010, 12:43 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I must say, I haven't posted much in my 5 years here but when I do, I always get great response. I will probably be tackling this this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
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