Originally Posted by webdove
Thanks K. Actually mine is a 2016 E6 like yours should they should behave similarly.
I will have to try some sweep experiments on one of the adjustments to see if Brightness and Contrast are "sticky" like you have noticed.
I have a few questions:
1. Where can I find documentation on using and the effects of the service menu adjustments?
2. Does your TV have the same dramatic green luminance falloff with saturation that mine does?
3. Have you also noticed that HCFR version 18.104.22.168 reports argyll driver errors on any attempt to open a new adjustment window after the first one and version 22.214.171.124 does not?
Attached is my most recent attempt at HDR cal using Zoyd's recommended Diffuse white target of 94.
Are you using the most recent firmware and the "PC Icon mode"?
This restricts ONLY HDR for this icon mode to a 709 gamut within bt.2020
I had to downgrade firmware to get a proper coverage back.
I was stupid and forgot to write down my HDR mode settings, so I'm still re-creating them.
I'm not at the color stage yet, working on grayscales for HDR on multiple devices (pc, built in apps, anything going through home theater receiver, game consoles (ps4/xb1x).
I've found most of my trouble is being caused by the PC icon's 4:4:4 chroma, which is made worse thanks to the state of bit-depth issues of current Nvidia drivers and Windows. [email protected]
bit is far cleaner and smoother than any other combination, and ycbcr conversions make this it slightly more visible in secondary colors, especially magenta. Not to mention the differences between Nvidia's HDR api and Windows HDR (and/or full screen exclusive mode to output 10/12 bit depth instead of the forced 8 bit in full screen windowed that Microsoft has yet to address...)
I'd really like for HCFR to allow MadTPG to use exclusive full screen mode for HDR measurements. I can't confirm, but I've heard CalMAN has an option on their end which does this so I am assuming this would need to be implemented on HCFR's end. Could anyone who has both software please confirm/deny this?
Non-PC Icon modes are far easier to work with IMO. Chroma conversions are cleaner and more linear for these modes, even if the content is the same (4:2:0), but aside from movies I want the 4:4:4 chroma. Clean text and other fine details are far more important in this case, IMO.
Also, I looked at your .chc, any particular reason you're using 0.002 as minimum target level and a max of 467?
Either way your panel looks like it behaves much different than mine.
I don't use GDI for measuring, as this is controlled entirely by Windows. It has it's own issues (bit depth, rgb<-->ycbcr conversions, bad dithering) and changes nearly every update. I use MadVR for movies which is another reason I don't like GDI.
I'll just use a 3D LUT for SDR stuff anyways (eeColor, or via Reshade if I want a resolution larger than 1920x1080 for SDR. Usually I downsample to 1920x1080 and route PC through eeColor)
Please be aware that any changes in the service menu are your choice. If you screw something up, it is completely your fault and consequences are yours alone to bear.
That said, there's not much documentation (at least for us non-LG techs or engineers, see service manual link below) but there are only a few things worth changing anyways.
There are two service menus by the way, IN_START and EZ_ADJUST. Passcode to enter them is 0413
Don't do anything with IN_START, except for toggling ASBL on/off. Don't play with anything else even if an option sounds obviously safe to change.
EZ_ADJUST has White Balance and Sub-B/C sections, the only useful ones.
Don't touch ADC calibration.
Don't hit the "reset" button on the white balance page (different "defaults" than what mine started with and causes a red flagged status for ADC calibration).
Do note that these controls will effect EVERYTHING. SDR, HDR, all icon modes, all inputs, all apps.
20-point controls don't work with HDR, but will stack with the user menu 20-point controls. Use them if you want to avoid the ISF modes (like using Game for slightly lower-than-PC-icon-mode input latency). Dosen't help color though (no CMS alternative in service menus so game modes are limited to "preferred color" and I have no clue what this actually does to the gamut)
The "White Balance" controls can be used as a global 2-point high (gain)/low (cut) controls. Because they work for HDR I use them as a replacement for HDR control point 127, as +/-1 adjustment to 127 are way too strong. This requires stronger adjustments to control points 254-482 to compensate for this method.
I use the "Neutral" set to keep HDR's balance separate from the "Warm" set I use for HDR (With SDR being set to Warm2)
I just set my Gains based on color clipping. Red clips first at 192 (Warm default) and I balance around that.
The Sub-B/C controls adjust the strength of what Brightness and Contrast (in user menu, not service menu) are set to.
Basically sub-B/C are fine/small adjustments while Brightness/Contrast are coarse/large adjustments.
Setting Sub-Contrast to 127 has been the best for me (helps aligns HDR 20-point controls with minimal impact on peak brightness as Contrast can stay higher than it would have been if Sub-C was 128 with a similar control alignment.
E6 Service Manual: https://lg.encompass.com/shop/model_...OLED55E6PU.pdf
*You can change the "model
.pdf" portion to get service manuals for other displays. Not all of them will match (ex: OLED65E6PU.pdf = service manual for 65UH7700)
The service menu doesn't have much about calibration, and some of their instructions I find are questionable.
Almost every LG panel has instructions that basically state that setting one of the rgb gains to 192 and lower others to keep will keep "full dynamic range". This has been the case for my three LG displays (E6, LM7600 and some first gen webOS model I forget.
In the B6 service manual they say to set white while using VIVID and that any other way would be an error... (wtf? I mean I can understand why for luminance but there's more to setting white than just being bright...)
In the E6 service manual they say to adjust balance without effecting saturations to set to 129-255 (can't make saturations worse if they're already clipped...)
I've never noticed anything like this. If the "O67" in the file name means OLED Light is set to 67, this might be why.
For SDR try measuring smaller windows (like 5-8%).
I leave OLED at 100 and lower Contrast to 52, and use 2-point low and service menu "warm" CUTS to get black where it belongs while having a 100% white at ~130 nits.
I do it this way as I've found the number value for Contrast is being used to determine the trigger point for screen dimming (that we can't disable, separate from ASBL).
Somewhere in the forum listed what I measured for a 100% white at various window sizes (5% increments, IIRC), and the difference between High OLED/Low contrast vs low OLED/High contrast. The two setup were practically identical in all regards except those two settings. The difference between the two with a 100% white full screen field (100% window) was a difference of ~35-40 nits the former setup was brighter than the latter, and being a gamer there was much less distracting dimming fluctuations.
I don't think any of that is related to what you're seeing with green though.
If you're using HCFR's saturation measurement pages, try using the newer "color checker" patterns instead (change them via bottom of References tab in Preferences).
You will get different results than you do from the dedicated saturation pages. I'm sure someone here could explain why much better than I could.
I did have this issue. I believe Zoyd said something about different agryll drivers not fully integrated yet or something like that, which is probably why.
I just went back to 126.96.36.199.
I was getting random bogus pattern display errors with MadTPG though. Checking the "OSD" box in the generator options made them stop (OSD does NOT get shown despite being checked, and I'm fine with that). This is probably in madshi's court as I found this from someone who was having this issue with DisplayCAL. I wouldn't have thought to "enable" the OSD would do anything for this because I didn't want it on lol.