Originally Posted by jrref
I was "playing" with the meter profiling/matching process again the other day. We are all on a constant quest for accuracy and this initial process seems to be somewhat flawed and I use this term loosely.
For example, the 4 color matrix method is not linear when using a non-additive display like an OLED, but we use it.
The new LS volumetric probe matching may also have some deficiencies, I haven't tried it yet but just seeing what some are saying but maybe it has to do with configuration?
We can use an EDR that someone's built but we have no idea if the panel that the EDR was built with has the same distribution that our panel has.
We say a 10 nm spectro device doesn't "work well" but how much better is using it than say using an EDR? How much worse is it than using a reference device like a Jeti?
That last question is a very very expensive question to answer. And it's the question I want the answer to, before spending my hard-earned money.
I'm not like many people in this thread, I'm only an enthusiast, not really in the market for professional licences etc. I'm not on some "journey" which ends up with my buying a Klien or a Jeti, for example! I'll only ever calibrate my own TV and a few friends and family at a push (but currently instead of asking me for a calibration, they need to be persuaded that any improvement whatsoever over factory defaults is possible and noticeable
That said, if we were to rank in some way (from worst to best) such as
- using no EDR
- using an EDR (created on the same model-year panel but not the same exact panel)
- using a Four-Colour Matrix Method profile created with an affordable spectro
- using a Four-Colour Matrix Method profile created with a professional-grade spectro
- using a Multi-point Volumetric Probe Matching profile created with an affordable spectro and Lightspace
- using a Multi-point Volumetric Probe Matching profile created with a professional-grade spectro and Lightspace
I am only confident in my ranking of the first, and the last, in that list. Corrections very welcome!
If I had confidence that (3) was substantially
better than (2), I might buy an X-Rite i1 Basic Pro 2, as a hobbyist, and the only realistic improvement I'll ever be able to make from where I am now. But it's not cheap, and every time cold water is poured on it, I get the impression that I shouldn't bother. Which is fine of course.