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post #5221 of 5247 Old 09-27-2019, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightyhuhn View Post
with old i mean 6 month.
i just do a new one and check that the easiest.
Alright, that makes sense.

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post #5222 of 5247 Old 09-28-2019, 01:19 PM
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i just created a new one still the same issue.

Displaycal 3.8.7
ArgyllCMS 2.1.1

i created the 3D LUt using the 3DLUT creator and the one in displaycal directly.
disabling the 3D LUt or running a clipping filter still helps/fixes the issue.
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post #5223 of 5247 Old 10-02-2019, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mightyhuhn View Post
i just created a new one still the same issue.

Displaycal 3.8.7
ArgyllCMS 2.1.1
Cannot reproduce. Are you sure you used "clip WtW"?

See the attached image. My 3D LUT clips anything above 235 when I use the WtW option, as expected (you can plot the 3D LUT by dragging the accompanying ICC device link profile onto the curve viewer or profile info). So if it is still not working for you, I wonder what it is that causes this. It can't be the LUT.

It's ok if the filter works for you, but it's just a bandaid put on that masks a problem that probably exists elsewhere.
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post #5224 of 5247 Old 10-02-2019, 07:24 AM
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i will create proper readings soon and just share the LUT and the readings even an video frame.

the one i created a couple of days ago was rushed. wiht the old 3D LUT active but the results was pretty much the same as the OLD 3D LUT.
i have to delete and move all old readings too it always wants to over write old ones even through i always start from "video 3D LUT for madVR..."

from the test0002.Rec709.B1.0,2.4GawTt65.icm there are a couple of ICM.
here is a curve from the current readings "tone response curve":
https://abload.de/img/toneresponsexjj4o.png
looks just like yours.
even through the issue is best seen in white maybe it's from btb as you say not much to clip in the wtw here.

beware someone PM me about this issue and ask for my readings pointing out and these are not this words my TV behaviours strange.
doesn't change that it is a mass produced clearly not entry class TV when it was new.
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post #5225 of 5247 Old 10-02-2019, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightyhuhn View Post
i have to delete and move all old readings too it always wants to over write old ones even through i always start from "video 3D LUT for madVR..."
The name can be entered on the profiling tab. If you don't have any dynamic placeholders in the name, like date and time (default), then of course it will always have the same filename.

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Originally Posted by mightyhuhn View Post
even through the issue is best seen in white maybe it's from btb as you say not much to clip in the wtw here.
BtB is never clipped (wouldn't make sense, if TV and madVR are setup correctly BtB will never be visible).

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post #5226 of 5247 Old 10-02-2019, 08:50 PM
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except that i find out that the TV is currently dying the results are the same. in normal gamut this TV can't even do anything close to BT709 anymore.
i can share the result if you want don't want to force anything on you. i simple can't figure out why using a 3D LUT results in a lot of "ringing" and why a clipping filter can fix it competely.

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The name can be entered on the profiling tab. If you don't have any dynamic placeholders in the name, like date and time (default), then of course it will always have the same filename.
well i always assumed selecting a preset reset everything. good to know.
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BtB is never clipped (wouldn't make sense, if TV and madVR are setup correctly BtB will never be visible).
the shader clips it and it is clipped in the end anyway. the 3D LUT clips the on it's own that only leaves BTB what else is the clipping filter even changing.
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post #5227 of 5247 Old 10-03-2019, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhoech View Post
Cannot reproduce. Are you sure you used "clip WtW"?

See the attached image. My 3D LUT clips anything above 235 when I use the WtW option, as expected
For me everything works as expected as well.
The normal 3DLUT contains the out of gamut colors, using the WtW clipping option clips them. Curve viewer shows it. When viewing the color clipping test video from AVS HD 709 suite, the normal 3DLUT shows color clipping, the 3DLUT with WtW clipping option not.
Beside that there is no difference in colors between the two of them.
So for me everything is working exactly as expected.
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post #5228 of 5247 Old 10-04-2019, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by hannes69 View Post
When viewing the color clipping test video from AVS HD 709 suite, the normal 3DLUT shows color clipping, the 3DLUT with WtW clipping option not.
So what's the proper setting for it? (It's disabled by default in madvr profile if I remember correctly.)
Or is it a matter of personal preference?

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post #5229 of 5247 Old 10-04-2019, 04:13 AM
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There was some discussion in the madVR´s thread. Some of madVR´s algorithms, e.g. some scaling algorithms seem to produce out of gamut colors. When combined with a 3DLUT, these colors have to be treaten in some way. Some people reported visual artifacts when using a 'normal' 3DLUT without clipping out of gamut colors. So when using a 3DLUT with the WtW clipping option, these artifacts can be eliminated.

I don´t know if there are disadvantages when using this option.

I think the default way (without the option) can be considered as the 'normal way' of handling WtW, so it´s the default
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post #5230 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 05:46 AM
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On my JVC NX9 I performed a gamma+color autocal with my Spyder5Pro for DCI mode (iris=0). Everything looked perfect.
I use madvr + Kodi as the player, with madvr set to “display calibrated = DCI-P3”.
After adjusting Brightness to -3 and Contrast to +1 & Gamma to 2.4 PT3 DG3, I then went into HCFR with my i1D3 to fine-tune off screen (0.98 actual gain).
Using Custom 1/6500K, I found that I needed to drop green gain substantially to -11 just to get red and blue to come up.

Does that sound normal? If not, what could I be doing wrong?
Are these projectors known to have this much green push?

Other adjustments in this DCI mode included offset red to +4, offset green to +2 and offset blue to -2.

Doing the same (after autocal) of Natural mode (6500K; gamma 2.4 PT3 DG3), I found I still needed to drop green gain to -5, red gain to -1 and red offset to +3.

It should also be noted that after an autocal of HDR10 mode (no filter; HDR color) I then had to do some really crazy adjustments of gains/offsets (with ATV4K as source) to bring greyscale inline. Had to drop green gain to -15 and some other large adjustments of red and blue offsets. Again, just wondering what is normal and what I could be doing wrong overall.

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post #5231 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
On my JVC NX9 I performed a gamma+color autocal with my Spyder5Pro for DCI mode (iris=0). Everything looked perfect.
I use madvr + Kodi as the player, with madvr set to “display calibrated = DCI-P3”.
After adjusting Brightness to -3 and Contrast to +1 & Gamma to 2.4 PT3 DG3, I then went into HCFR with my i1D3 to fine-tune off screen (0.98 actual gain).
Using Custom 1/6500K, I found that I needed to drop green gain substantially to -11 just to get red and blue to come up.

Does that sound normal? If not, what could I be doing wrong?
Are these projectors known to have this much green push?

Other adjustments in this DCI mode included offset red to +4, offset green to +2 and offset blue to -2.

Doing the same (after autocal) of Natural mode (6500K; gamma 2.4 PT3 DG3), I found I still needed to drop green gain to -5, red gain to -1 and red offset to +3.

It should also be noted that after an autocal of HDR10 mode (no filter; HDR color) I then had to do some really crazy adjustments of gains/offsets (with ATV4K as source) to bring greyscale inline. Had to drop green gain to -15 and some other large adjustments of red and blue offsets. Again, just wondering what is normal and what I could be doing wrong overall.
Dropping green that far could be normal but remember you aren't adjusting that from stock as in "Are these projectors known to have this much green push?". You ran color autocal with a spyder which could just not be very accurate compared to the i1 Display Pro. Your spyder could have added a bunch of green during autocal. Or perhaps they are both off somewhat from each other in opposite directions meaning that after you use one, using the other to correct it could be a bigger adjustment.

Also, you should not really use positive offset adjustments as that will raise your black floor and lower your contrast ratio pretty considerably. Instead if you want to tune the calibration with a better meter after doing the automatic autocal you should use the autocal gamma adjustment tab along with HCFR and your i1D3 which is a manual process.

Open the gamma editor in autocal, and in that screen set the gamma to Custom1 and the correction value to whatever you are targeting, like 2.2 or 2.4.

In the autocal gamma screen you will see that you have 12 gamma points: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95.

On the projector set the gamma value to Custom1 as well and set the correction value to "Import".

In HCFR make sure that in references (Advanced -> Preferences -> References tab) you set the gamma target to the same one that you selected in autocal correction value, like power law gamma 2.2 or 2.4. Also make sure you have the correct white point selected like D65. Then open the Grey Scale view and right click on the line graph part on the bottom and make sure the "w/Gamma" option is enabled. Finally go to Measures -> Parameters, and change the number of greyscale levels from 10 to 20.

The first thing you should do in HCFR is click the 100 in the % White row and click the green triangle to display white on your screen. On the JVC in your 6500K color temp adjust the gains to balance your white to 100%.

Now, before you begin adjusting in autocal, click the run greyscale button to measure all 20 grey scale levels.

When that is done, pick a point from my number list above, click on that number in the % White row in HCFR grey scale view and then click the Green triangle to display the pattern on your screen. Then in autocal gamma screen, use the first slider to move to that same number point that you chose to adjust. With the second slider you can then move white, red, green, or blue up or down. Moving white moves all 3, so adjust them as you need with the second slider to bring all 3 to 100%. This is calibrating both white balance and gamma to your target for that percent. Repeat this for all 12 points.

When you are done you can save this in autocal if you want, but there is nothing else left to do if you just want to use it, just set the JVC to the Custom1 that you used to do the adjustment.

When you are all done with this, finish by double checking your brightness and contrast values with the black and white clipping test patterns.

Hopefully I made this process clear. If you are at least somewhat familiar with HCFR, autocal, and JVC menus you should have no trouble. Otherwise ask if you need clarification on something.

Last edited by SirMaster; 10-16-2019 at 06:40 AM.
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post #5232 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
Dropping green that far could be normal but remember you aren't adjusting that from stock as in "Are these projectors known to have this much green push?". You ran color autocal with a spyder which could just not be very accurate compared to the i1 Display Pro. Your spyder could have added a bunch of green during autocal. Or perhaps they are both off somewhat from each other in opposite directions meaning that after you use one, using the other to correct it could be a bigger adjustment.

Also, you should not really use positive offset adjustments as that will raise your black floor and lower your contrast ratio pretty considerably. Instead if you want to tune the calibration with a better meter after doing the automatic autocal you should use the autocal gamma adjustment tab along with HCFR and your i1D3 which is a manual process.

Open the gamma editor in autocal, and in that screen set the gamma to Custom1 and the correction value to whatever you are targeting, like 2.2 or 2.4.

In the autocal gamma screen you will see that you have 12 gamma points: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95.

On the projector set the gamma value to Custom1 as well and set the correction value to "Import".

In HCFR make sure that in references (Advanced -> Preferences -> References tab) you set the gamma target to the same one that you selected in autocal correction value, like power law gamma 2.2 or 2.4. Also make sure you have the correct white point selected like D65. Then open the Grey Scale view and right click on the line graph part on the bottom and make sure the "w/Gamma" option is enabled. Finally go to Measures -> Parameters, and change the number of greyscale levels from 10 to 20.

The first thing you should do in HCFR is click the 100 in the % White row and click the green triangle to display white on your screen. On the JVC in your 6500K color temp adjust the gains to balance your white to 100%.

Now, before you begin adjusting in autocal, click the run greyscale button to measure all 20 grey scale levels.

When that is done, pick a point from my number list above, click on that number in the % White row in HCFR grey scale view and then click the Green triangle to display the pattern on your screen. Then in autocal gamma screen, use the first slider to move to that same number point that you chose to adjust. With the second slider you can then move white, red, green, or blue up or down. Moving white moves all 3, so adjust them as you need with the second slider to bring all 3 to 100%. This is calibrating both white balance and gamma to your target for that percent. Repeat this for all 12 points.

When you are done you can save this in autocal if you want, but there is nothing else left to do if you just want to use it, just set the JVC to the Custom1 that you used to do the adjustment.

When you are all done with this, finish by double checking your brightness and contrast values with the black and white clipping test patterns.

Hopefully I made this process clear. If you are at least somewhat familiar with HCFR, autocal, and JVC menus you should have no trouble. Otherwise ask if you need clarification on something.
Wow, thanks so much for these instructions. Yes, I am familiar with these tools.

I didn't know about adding gains/offsets upsetting contrast. Good to know.

I also just learned that the color autocal affects the white balance - I had thought it was only adjusting the CMS (which I didn't touch in HCFR afterwards). I had no idea it was also affecting the gains/offsets even though they are still all set to 0 once done.

So, should my calibration approach now be?
1. Reset projector using autocal init file.
2. Perform a gamma only autocal (with/without filter - all in low lamp -for now)
3. Use HCFR and my i1D3 to perform the manual gamma calibration as per your instructions above.

I'd want to calibrate ideally all 3 of the user modes I listed in my previous post replying to Manni.
Would I be able to do that with this method by just switching it between each mode and repeating the steps you provided?

Also, finally a question about performing a DCI 3DLUT for use with madvr Custom 1 DCI mode after performing the above on that user mode:
As DisplayCal has that calibration window of it's own to lineup the bars in the middle with adjustments to gains/offsets - should I be making further adjustments in the gains/offsets to line that up before commencing the profiling and subsequent 3DLUT creation & installation?
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post #5233 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Wow, thanks so much for these instructions. Yes, I am familiar with these tools.

I didn't know about adding gains/offsets upsetting contrast. Good to know.

I also just learned that the color autocal affects the white balance - I had thought it was only adjusting the CMS (which I didn't touch in HCFR afterwards). I had no idea it was also affecting the gains/offsets even though they are still all set to 0 once done.

So, should my calibration approach now be?
1. Reset projector using autocal init file.
2. Perform a gamma only autocal (with/without filter - all in low lamp -for now)
3. Use HCFR and my i1D3 to perform the manual gamma calibration as per your instructions above.

I'd want to calibrate ideally all 3 of the user modes I listed in my previous post replying to Manni.
Would I be able to do that with this method by just switching it between each mode and repeating the steps you provided?

Also, finally a question about performing a DCI 3DLUT for use with madvr Custom 1 DCI mode after performing the above on that user mode:
As DisplayCal has that calibration window of it's own to lineup the bars in the middle with adjustments to gains/offsets - should I be making further adjustments in the gains/offsets to line that up before commencing the profiling and subsequent 3DLUT creation & installation?
Negative adjustments to gains/offsets don't harm black or contrast. Positive adjustments to offsets do, but I don't think positive adjustments to gains do.

Your approach sounds fine. You can fine tune each if you need by using a different custom gamma slot for each. Just use custom2 and custom3 for the other 2 modes you are making.

If you are doing a 3DLUT in DisplayCAL then you don't even need to do any adjustment for that user mode. Just leave your gamma in the JVC at 2.2 or 2.4 and do the 3DLUT. The 3DLUT will take care of calibrating absolutely everything as the i1D3 sees it. You do not need to do anything with the RGB bar screen that pops up before the 3DLUT. The 3DLUT will calibrate everything correctly including white.


Technically there is one other thing you could do that would potentially improve your color gamut. Normally this would be taken care of with color autocal, but you would want an i1 Pro 2 for this. However, this is a way to basically do it with any meter.

It's referred to as the Chad B method.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post50950289

What he is describing here is a method of fixing the color gamut after doing a color autocal with a spyder. He talks about using CalMAN, but you can easily use HCFR as well. In HCFR under Measures -> Parameters, just set the number of saturation color levels to 10, then you can measure 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100 color saturations to get the x and y values to fill in his spreadhseet like he says.

It's a somewhat advanced method, but it would potentially expand your color gamut since you are performing the measures with color profile off in the JVC (i.e. native bulb gamut) and then using the measurements to create a new custom color profile which will have the correct primary coordinates (according to the better meter being used in HCFR rather than the spyder via color autocal) which you can create and load via autocal.

I think technically automatic autocal wouldn't even be beneficial here.

1. You would do The Chad B method to create a custom color gamut based on color saturation measurements taken in HCFR with i1D3.
2. You would do adjust the gains to set 100% white with HCFR with i1D3.
3. You would do the 12 point RGB gamma calibration in autocal with HCFR with i1D3.

I guess you could still put a gamma autocal with the spyder in between steps 1 and 2 because you can get a more detailed 33-point gamma cal then and the spyder is OK for that.

Last edited by SirMaster; 10-16-2019 at 11:08 AM.
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post #5234 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 02:24 PM
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What he is describing here is a method of fixing the color gamut after doing a color autocal with a spyder. He talks about using CalMAN, but you can easily use HCFR as well. In HCFR under Measures -> Parameters, just set the number of saturation color levels to 10, then you can measure 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100 color saturations to get the x and y values to fill in his spreadhseet like he says.
Chad's spreadsheet measures 100% saturation R/G/B at different stimulus levels (50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100%) and uses the average to calculate the meter offset between the Spyder and the reference meter. Using 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100% color saturations would give you a totally wrong offset.
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post #5235 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Chad's spreadsheet measures 100% saturation R/G/B at different stimulus levels (50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100%) and uses the average to calculate the meter offset between the Spyder and the reference meter. Using 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100% color saturations would give you a totally wrong offset.
That makes WAY more sense lol, thanks.

I was wondering about that and when I looked at the spreadsheet I was like why are all the coordinates basically the same at each level.


Do you know how to generate different stimulus levels and measure them like that in HCFR?
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That makes WAY more sense lol, thanks.

I was wondering about that and when I looked at the spreadsheet I was like why are all the coordinates basically the same at each level.


Do you know how to generate different stimulus levels and measure them like that in HCFR?
If you use the GDI pattern generator you can change the Pattern Intensity to 50, 60, 70 etc and measure the Primary Colours at each level.
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post #5237 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
Negative adjustments to gains/offsets don't harm black or contrast. Positive adjustments to offsets do, but I don't think positive adjustments to gains do.

Your approach sounds fine. You can fine tune each if you need by using a different custom gamma slot for each. Just use custom2 and custom3 for the other 2 modes you are making.

If you are doing a 3DLUT in DisplayCAL then you don't even need to do any adjustment for that user mode. Just leave your gamma in the JVC at 2.2 or 2.4 and do the 3DLUT. The 3DLUT will take care of calibrating absolutely everything as the i1D3 sees it. You do not need to do anything with the RGB bar screen that pops up before the 3DLUT. The 3DLUT will calibrate everything correctly including white.


Technically there is one other thing you could do that would potentially improve your color gamut. Normally this would be taken care of with color autocal, but you would want an i1 Pro 2 for this. However, this is a way to basically do it with any meter.

It's referred to as the Chad B method.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post50950289

What he is describing here is a method of fixing the color gamut after doing a color autocal with a spyder. He talks about using CalMAN, but you can easily use HCFR as well. In HCFR under Measures -> Parameters, just set the number of saturation color levels to 10, then you can measure 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100 color saturations to get the x and y values to fill in his spreadhseet like he says.

It's a somewhat advanced method, but it would potentially expand your color gamut since you are performing the measures with color profile off in the JVC (i.e. native bulb gamut) and then using the measurements to create a new custom color profile which will have the correct primary coordinates (according to the better meter being used in HCFR rather than the spyder via color autocal) which you can create and load via autocal.

I think technically automatic autocal wouldn't even be beneficial here.

1. You would do The Chad B method to create a custom color gamut based on color saturation measurements taken in HCFR with i1D3.
2. You would do adjust the gains to set 100% white with HCFR with i1D3.
3. You would do the 12 point RGB gamma calibration in autocal with HCFR with i1D3.

I guess you could still put a gamma autocal with the spyder in between steps 1 and 2 because you can get a more detailed 33-point gamma cal then and the spyder is OK for that.
Thanks again!

So couple questions:

1. In the manual gamma calibration, in selecting the gamma in autocal choosing 2.2 or 2.4 - I actually have targetted a gamma of 2.4 but with Picture Tone +3 and Dark Gamma +3 as I find 2.2 too light and 2.4 too dark. This seems to give me an effective gamma of 2.3, so what do I choose in autocal?


Also, a friend has an i1Photo Pro 2 - is this the same as an i1Pro2?

If I borrowed it to do the color calibration (i.e. Spyder5Pro for gamma; i1Pro2 for color), would I essentially negate the need to perform the manual gamma calibration you provided as well as negating the need to perform Chad's method all while likely providing the same and possibly even more accurate of an overall calibration?

So given this option, it renders another question: would the color calibration drift over time as the bulb ages like the gamma does? I ask this because I may not find it as easy to borrow the i1Pro2 in the future but it wouldn't be a concern if the color portion of the calibration should change if all I'd then do is correct the gamma with my Spyder5Pro every few hundred hours.

I still find it hard to believe that with autocal if you had a Spyder5Pro & i1 pro 2 you can arrive relatively painlessly at an overall calibration that is better than what I've been fine-tuning with HCFR+i1d3.
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post #5238 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
1. In the manual gamma calibration, in selecting the gamma in autocal choosing 2.2 or 2.4 - I actually have targetted a gamma of 2.4 but with Picture Tone +3 and Dark Gamma +3 as I find 2.2 too light and 2.4 too dark. This seems to give me an effective gamma of 2.3, so what do I choose in autocal?
It doesn't matter what gamma you choose when running autocal. Just select the one you want after autocal.

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I still find it hard to believe that with autocal if you had a Spyder5Pro & i1 pro 2 you can arrive relatively painlessly at an overall calibration that is better than what I've been fine-tuning with HCFR+i1d3.
In most case autocal will not be very accurate in the low end in balancing R/G/B; you can do better with the i1D3.

This is really getting off-topic for the thread.

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 10-16-2019 at 04:31 PM.
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post #5239 of 5247 Old 10-16-2019, 04:41 PM
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It doesn't matter what gamma you choose when running autocal. Just select the one you want after autocal.



In most case autocal will not be very accurate in the low end in balancing R/G/B; you can do better with the i1D3.

This is really getting off-topic for the thread.
What other thread best applies to this topic?
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post #5240 of 5247 Old 10-18-2019, 09:16 AM
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Should I be setting my brightness/contrast before doing the color only autocal calibration off screen or should I leave those at 0 like I did with the gamma only?
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post #5241 of 5247 Old 10-18-2019, 09:21 AM
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Should I be setting my brightness/contrast before doing the color only autocal calibration off screen or should I leave those at 0 like I did with the gamma only?
I always do those adjustments as the last step on a calibration.
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post #5242 of 5247 Old 10-18-2019, 10:39 AM
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I always do those adjustments as the last step on a calibration.
Excellent! So I think I'm all done using my Spyder5Pro and my borrowed i1pro2. Excellent results on my NX9!

I'm wondering if it's worth doing a 3DLUT with the i1pro2 for my madvr mode?
(SDR DCI-P3 2.4 gamma PT+3, DG+3, iris=0)
Currently getting 72 nits in this mode.
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Excellent! So I think I'm all done using my Spyder5Pro and my borrowed i1pro2. Excellent results on my NX9!

I'm wondering if it's worth doing a 3DLUT with the i1pro2 for my madvr mode?
(SDR DCI-P3 2.4 gamma PT+3, DG+3, iris=0)
Currently getting 72 nits in this mode.
You can't do a 3DLUT from the i1 Pro 2. 3DLUT consists of measuring many dark patterns which a spectrophotometer is no good at.

With the i1 Pro 2 in your possession you really should be making a matrix correction file for your i1D3. This will make your i1D3 as accurate as the i1 Pro 2 when using it with your NX9 and will keep working accurately like this for the life of the NX9.

From the calibrated i1D3 is what you would do a 3DLUT with if you want. But I doubt there would be any need to do a 3DLUT after a good autocal.

Calibrate your i1D3 to the i1 Pro 2 and then check the accuracy of your autocal with HCFR and if you want to fine tune the calibration, do that with the autocal manual gamma process. After that there really should be no benefit to a 3DLUT until such a time that the color tracking on your NX9 has started to deviate after many thousands of hours of use if that ever even happens.
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You can't do a 3DLUT from the i1 Pro 2. 3DLUT consists of measuring many dark patterns which a spectrophotometer is no good at.

With the i1 Pro 2 in your possession you really should be making a matrix correction file for your i1D3. This will make your i1D3 as accurate as the i1 Pro 2 when using it with your NX9 and will keep working accurately like this for the life of the NX9.

From the calibrated i1D3 is what you would do a 3DLUT with if you want. But I doubt there would be any need to do a 3DLUT after a good autocal.

Calibrate your i1D3 to the i1 Pro 2 and then check the accuracy of your autocal with HCFR and if you want to fine tune the calibration, do that with the autocal manual gamma process. After that there really should be no benefit to a 3DLUT until such a time that the color tracking on your NX9 has started to deviate after many thousands of hours of use if that ever even happens.
How would I create the matrix correction file?

BTW, after full autocal I did check with HCFR+i1D3 and can see it's off as per HCFR greyscale measurements. Mostly blue gain is low and green offset & gain is high, so I'm presuming this is enough to assert my i1d3 is off.
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post #5245 of 5247 Old 10-18-2019, 12:10 PM
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MadVR - ArgyllCMS

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How would I create the matrix correction file?



BTW, after full autocal I did check with HCFR+i1D3 and can see it's off as per HCFR greyscale measurements. Mostly blue gain is low and green offset & gain is high, so I'm presuming this is enough to assert my i1d3 is off.


In DisplayCAL, Tools -> Correction -> Create colorimeter correction



Make both a Matrix and a Spectral correction while you have the i1 Pro 2. Just use LCD (generic) mode for both.



The Matrix correction would only work for your specific i1D3, but let's say it broke and you had to RMA or replace it and get a new one. The Spectral correction would work with any i1D3 (for your NX9), but it's not quite as accurate as the matrix correction, but it would be better than nothing at that point.



HCFR will then also see the correction files and you can choose them when you load your i1D3 in HCFR.



And yes, checking the autocal in HCFR from the i1D3 that has not been corrected to the i1 Pro 2 will show a difference, because it's probably not as accurate as the i1 Pro 2, at least not until you create a correction for it, then it should be very close.

Last edited by SirMaster; 10-18-2019 at 12:15 PM.
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You can't do a 3DLUT from the i1 Pro 2. 3DLUT consists of measuring many dark patterns which a spectrophotometer is no good at.
Well of course you can, it will just be a bit slower and the darker measurements are likely to be a bit noisier. Note that the ArgyllCMS i1Pro driver uses adaptive integration time to improve dark measurement repeatability, and that the i1Pro2 has better black level stability than the i1Pro1, and that the profiling process smooths out some of the noise. But yes, if you have a Colorimeter with good low level measurement capabilities like the i1D3 available, then there are probably advantages in making a correction matrix for it, and using it instead.

Author of ArgyllCMS and ArgyllPRO ColorMeter
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post #5247 of 5247 Old 10-18-2019, 06:03 PM
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Well of course you can, it will just be a bit slower and the darker measurements are likely to be a bit noisier. Note that the ArgyllCMS i1Pro driver uses adaptive integration time to improve dark measurement repeatability, and that the i1Pro2 has better black level stability than the i1Pro1, and that the profiling process smooths out some of the noise. But yes, if you have a Colorimeter with good low level measurement capabilities like the i1D3 available, then there are probably advantages in making a correction matrix for it, and using it instead.


Ha yes I *should* have said that you shouldn’t make one with the i1 Pro, rather than couldn’t.

Sorry we hijacked your thread with so much autocal talk as well Graeme.
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