Hi. So, I'm reading through the P series calibration thread on the recommendation of Superkyle. First, I know my screen is a VA, not an IPS screen, so I was wondering on a recommendation on the choice in display type. Second, he recommended, as you suggested, having the APL in HCFR turned all the way up. I'm curious about this as I've noticed three clear backlight sets (might be four) while calibrating with Active Dimming turned on. What I have done for this is to read each one separately (rather than it auto running through, similar to what is done with a disc) while opening the CMS menu before reading it each time. This brings it to the setting right above the darkest on with the active dimming and effects the reading up to 60 or 70 on the gray scale. But, it does so consistently. The reason I do this is to prevent the active dimming from crushing blacks and grays on the lower end. I noticed a potential 4th lighting sandwiched in between by using the APL on the AVSHD709 disc I burned which seems lower than the APL 95% setting in the HCFR program but higher than the one I mentioned I used. I understand having it on during the process, but was wondering is it better to prevent crushed blacks than skew the upper grays and whites?
Finally, I was wondering what settings you used in your drivers? Specifically, I, in Nvidia control panel, added HCFR to the programs side and realized the videocard is applying gamma processing before the tv is processing it, which would skew the results considerably. I disabled much of the processing while turning that off, which helped with both that (and I did it separately for VLC for movies). Of course set the output to the TV to [email protected]
12-bit YCC. Is there anything I am missing in this? Also, I am confused at the levels of backlight used by most users. I set Y to as close as I can get to 120, but this leaves my backlight at between 13-25, depending on whether I set it to Refresh or non-refresh. Going from the black APL to the 95% APL changes it (in non-refresh) to as high as 160 (which I suppose would be the reason to set the 100% IRE with the APL on). Sorry, complete noob here that has been working on this for a week. I have the i1d3 colorometer.
Finally, with the offset and gain adjusting the brightness of either the high end or low end of saturated color (for RGB), why is it recommended to use those for setting the 100 and 30 for the 2 point gray scale? My current technique:
1) set 11pt gray scale as discussed above
2) adjust green to as low as possible on variance on saturation scale, including gain and offset (under the assumption that red and blue are set around green as the neutral contrast setting by which the other two adjust at each gray level)
3) adjust the gray scale again
4) adjust all primary and secondary colors
5) adjust gray scale
6) minor tweaks to the primary and secondary colors, as needed.
I've had issues with blue on this and have certain doubts on the accuracy of the signal from the generator and the AVSHD709 disc (using windowed for HCFR on the disc). The saturation is not acting correctly on the blue. Instead, hue, to a degree, seems to move the point in the way saturation would, but it throws the upper levels all out of whack.
I've gotten a fairly accurate color picture on the screen from all of this, but have a problem with wanting perfection. Any insight would help. I'll continue reading this thread looking for more. Thank you for any help.