Originally Posted by umenon
I have a Spyder and a calibration software on my laptop. Can someone tell me how to use the Color Tuner? For instance, what tells us that we need to reduce Yellow Hue (in the Color Tuner) by 2. How does that work? I ask because, for the time being, my newly acquired P75-F1 is sitting next to my OLED B6. The colors are almost identical ... except, the whites on the Vizio seem to have a slight yellow tinge. Not sure what I need to tweak to correct that. Thanks.
Which calibration software are you using. I am not able to explain Spyder's software, X-rites (even though I have an i1Display Pro and i1Pro 2), or Chromapure's software, just from lack of use. I'm not skilled in lightspace either.
If you are using HCFR, then it is straight forward. First, I measure 100% white and set my backlight up to the targeted illumination I intend to use. This is usually targeting 100-120 nits for SDR if using a dark room. But, whatever your target is, set it. Then move on to white and black flashing bars to set brightness (black bars for black level) and contrast (white bars for white level). For black bars, 16 should be flat black and the bar not visible, whereas 17 should just barely be visible. For white bars, you are shooting for 235, but you want to set it as high as possible and not cause the bars to disappear below that value. There is a little more to it then that, but generally.
Then move onto the flashing pattern with the boxes on bars. For this, I use the R. Masciola patterns, usually. This can be used to set the color and tint by eye. You need to put the display into blue only mode. To do this, go into color tuner, then click on the red and green until you see an X going through them. This should put it into blue only mode. You then adjust the color setting until the white on blue box matches that bar as close as possible, same with the inverse box (blue on white). With blue only mode, they just look blue, so you are trying to match the shades of blue. You repeat with tint, using the magenta and cyan boxes.
As an alternative to this, I believe it was Huffman that suggested using 21% of the white reading for the 100% red (his guide is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...-enhanced.html
After that is set, you then measure the 20% or 30% gray and 80% gray or 100% white. This needs measured without gamma being added in, that way you can overall balance the gain (high end signal) and offset (low end signal) to try to get the RGB to align as close as possible over the center gray scale (the top being off is less critical than the center, primarily, and somewhat the lower). From there, you need to do your gray scale balance with gamma.
Then you will be ready to start messing with the hue, saturation, and brightness. That is where I often prefer to jump straight into measuring the 20/25% saturation scale for each color. I find trying to set it up for only the 100% values can throw the colors off in the middle on my set. So I change each one, one at a time, then re-run the saturation scale for that color. Repeat until you get the lowest overall average, but without overly driving up the 100% dE value, which for my sets often was the one to go off the deep end compared to the others.
After you do this for all colors (both primaries and secondaries), at a minimum, you should go back and rebalance the gray scale again, as getting the colors properly setup WILL often throw off the gray scale slightly. In fact, best practice is to continually go back and check that the new settings don't cause the need to reset the older settings just set throughout the process. After the gray scale is correct again, if you like, you can go back through checking the saturation values for each color again and adjusting the Hue, Saturation, and Brightness as needed (if those need changed at all, you will need to check the gray scale again).
Once that is fully balanced and done, run the color checker to look for any issues on specific colors, but you are pretty well done.
Hope this helps, and read through the Huffman guide I linked here. There are different ways to approach it, and there is an art to calibration, but hopefully that will get you started.