***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 36 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1051 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
My I1Display3 has gone wonky and give read errors or bad results with Calman and Chromapure so all I have right now is the I1Pro2 and my old I1Pro right now. I did a full calibration with the I1Pro2 and I get stable readings at low levels but the picture looks very red in fleshtones. I also did a two point at 30% and 100% on the Cinema which is also red.
Perhaps it is correct.

- Rich
Does the meter profiling don't fix the chromaticy problems of your i1DisplayPRO? Have you checked your i1Display PRO settings (sync mode or exposure time) to see if your i1DisplayPRO can provide stable repeatability in continue measurements mode? ...before stating the meter profiling.

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post #1052 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Does the meter profiling don't fix the chromaticy problems of your i1DisplayPRO? Have you checked your i1Display PRO settings (sync mode or exposure time) to see if your i1DisplayPRO can provide stable repeatability in continue measurements mode? ...before stating the meter profiling.

Well the I1D3 seems to have died so profiling is not an options.

I have an I1Pro and I1Pro2 that are operating. It might be interesting to profile the I1Pro1 against the I1Pro2.
I performed two calibrations with the I1Pro2 (alone):


  1. I1Pro2 calibrating the LG B6 Cinema two point 30 and 100%
  2. I1Pro2 calibrating the LG B6 20-point
Both calibrations exhibit more red than I am used to. That does not mean they are wrong. Calman low light-handling is enabled and it takes about 30 seconds per reading. The methodology used with Calman is:
  • Reset all settings ISF Bright mode. Set for normal color space and all enhancements off.
  • Set Calman for custom gamma 2.35 with black level .0034 (per ChadB's recommendations)
  • Full sweep measurement (Lumagen Radiance 2020 as the pattern generator)
  • From 95% down to 5% do the following:
    • Display live TV
    • Single Measurement
    • Display live TV
    • Make adjustments
    • Single Measurement
    • Repeat until DE is minimized with red never above others
    • Display Live TB
    • Re-measure to make sure the final setting is stable
The full sweep after is not very useful with the B6 because it takes so long the panel drifts. Live TV is required between each measurement for stable results.
The I1Pro is producing stable measurements < 30%.


- Rich

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post #1053 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Well the I1D3 seems to have died so profiling is not an options.

I have an I1Pro and I1Pro2 that are operating. It might be interesting to profile the I1Pro1 against the I1Pro2.
I performed two calibrations with the I1Pro2 (alone):


  1. I1Pro2 calibrating the LG B6 Cinema two point 30 and 100%
  2. I1Pro2 calibrating the LG B6 20-point
Both calibrations exhibit more red than I am used to. That does not mean they are wrong. Calman low light-handling is enabled and it takes about 30 seconds per reading. The methodology used with Calman is:
  • Reset all settings ISF Bright mode. Set for normal color space and all enhancements off.
  • Set Calman for custom gamma 2.35 with black level .0034 (per ChadB's recommendations)
  • Full sweep measurement (Lumagen Radiance 2020 as the pattern generator)
  • From 95% down to 5% do the following:
    • Display live TV
    • Single Measurement
    • Display live TV
    • Make adjustments
    • Single Measurement
    • Repeat until DE is minimized with red never above others
    • Display Live TB
    • Re-measure to make sure the final setting is stable
The full sweep after is not very useful with the B6 because it takes so long the panel drifts. Live TV is required between each measurement for stable results.
The I1Pro is producing stable measurements < 30%.


- Rich
There no advantage to create meter profiling between 2 spectro's, use the i1PRO2 since it's newer unit and sell the i1PRO1 (and when you sell it get a new i1DisplayPRO colorimeter).

Take measurements only one hour after the LG is working and about the 30-40 minutes the meters are connected via USB to your notebook.

Try to take only full pass of whole measurement runs using 10/11% Window patterns. It's not helping to stay a long time to the same pattern (taking more samples, since it's poor at low light, even taking 1 or 20, the same poor results you will have, just you waste your free time; display is not stable to continious measurements also, even the meter is stable the readings will have differencies).

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post #1054 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 09:55 AM
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Hi.
In my scenario (55B6v) the Eecolor 3D LUT 3.000points on CalMAN whit Black full field compensation every 4 seconds, 2 seconds.. it woks like charm!

The profile correction matrix on my own i1D3 rev B02 it was made with JETI 1211 and aim the same reads of the klein 10.

I can confirm exactly the same on my panel it was talking about TED some post ago...

I use an ISF night with wide Gamut gamma 2,2 for two differents luts and 130 nits
With only 2 points CUT and Gain RGB calibration before that the Eecolor it was switched off.

So far so good after not only graphically but far far more beautiful than before.
The 3D LUT it takes around 2 hours and 50 min.. with 0,75 delay to finish it...

Near black also after LUT seems very good and neutral, no colorations...






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post #1055 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 10:11 AM
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Scott Wilkinson posted an in this article:
https://www.avsforum.com/2017-lg-oled-tv-improvements/
Color accuracy has also been improved. Last year’s LG OLEDs used a 9x9x9 3D LUT (look-up table) for color-gamut mapping; this year, they use a 17x17x17 LUT for greater accuracy. Also, a new color-clarity enhancement algorithm calibrates color saturation.


Neither is currently accessible as far as I know. Just wish LG would make it available.

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post #1056 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
There no advantage to create meter profiling between 2 spectro's, use the i1PRO2 since it's newer unit and sell the i1PRO1 (and when you sell it get a new i1DisplayPRO colorimeter).
I have an I1DisplayPro but it broke yesterday.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Take measurements only one hour after the LG is working and about the 30-40 minutes the meters are connected via USB to your notebook.

Good to know, I have been doing this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Try to take only full pass of whole measurement runs using 10/11% Window patterns. It's not helping to stay a long time to the same pattern (taking more samples, since it's poor at low light, even taking 1 or 20, the same poor results you will have, just you waste your free time; display is not stable to continious measurements also, even the meter is stable the readings will have differencies).

I am using 10% windows.
As I posted above, I take single measurements and switch to live TV. I am not lingering on patterns or using multiple readings.
Using this method the display and readings are stable.


What does "poor at low light" mean?
Does it mean slow or inaccurate? If Inaccurate, then the I1Pro2 is not accurate to anything below what %?


- Rich

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post #1057 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
What does "poor at low light" mean?
Does it mean slow or inaccurate? If Inaccurate, then the I1Pro2 is not accurate to anything below what %?

- Rich
Mean that the chromaticity it will report is not something you can trust.

For example if you try to fix 25/20/15/10/5% Gray with i1PRO you will probably produce a greeish tint to that area, I have sold my i1PRO1/i1PRO2 before 2 years to tell you which exactly tint you will see.

35% Gray when you aim for 2.4 Gamma with 120 nits it has below 10nits target luminance.

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post #1058 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 11:59 AM
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Gentlemen, I have a question. Does the OLED light have any affect on the contrast and brightness settings? Coming from LCD I was under the assumption the OLED light had no effect like the backlight of an LCD. Any info is greatly appreciated.

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post #1059 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dschlic1 View Post
Scott Wilkinson posted an in this article:
https://www.avsforum.com/2017-lg-oled-tv-improvements/
Color accuracy has also been improved. Last year’s LG OLEDs used a 9x9x9 3D LUT (look-up table) for color-gamut mapping; this year, they use a 17x17x17 LUT for greater accuracy. Also, a new color-clarity enhancement algorithm calibrates color saturation.

Neither is currently accessible as far as I know. Just wish LG would make it available.
If you don't see numbers from calibration reports, don't believe anything posted for marketing reasons. Every year the same is happening with newer models. Panasonic was advertising that they released a KURO killer at least 4 years, every year the same marketing stuff.

There a lot of false information which companies marketing divisions have invented and are talking about each year to promote their products to the people which are not related with calibration.

Supposed that LG OLED 2017 models will be 30% brighter form 2017...be able to reach 1000nits in Vivid mode with 5% Window pattern and about 800nits with 10% Window Pattern, but the reality is that E7 has 700nits calibrated while E6 had 660nits. (~5% brighter).

One difference which is not advertised by LG is the no ABL in SDR mode until 150 nits for 2017 models which is a great capability.

To the podcast they say that 2016 model were able to display up to 5.000 nits while 2017 models will be able to display up to 8.000 nits, see there: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-bl...l#post51488945

Noone will ever can access any internal 3D LUT table of any LG, unless manufacture will give this capability to future models. Since it's proven than even the 1-Point CMS of LG is very problematic, it will need about 20 years from LG to realize how to do this to work with 3D LUT, since CMS issues from calibration controls usage is a floating problem of all LG's the last year, not only OLED's, but LCD/LED/Plasma also.

Having internal 3D LUT 9 or 17 point makes no sense of existence when the display tracking very poor mid-lower luminance levels of various saturations levels as measurements revealed for 2016 models.
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post #1060 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl L View Post
Gentlemen, I have a question. Does the OLED light have any affect on the contrast and brightness settings? Coming from LCD I was under the assumption the OLED light had no effect like the backlight of an LCD. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Hi, according to LG enginers, something that came out the last days is the the OLED Light is working as ABL limit slider, so with higher setting, the ABL is the minimal possible; so It's not working exactly like backlight of LED-LCD, while it's adjusting the peak output also (like LED/LCD)

I have asked from a LG user to do a quick test to confirm this, last month, here he has posted the results: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post50843585

I have seen that it's not affecting the Contrast/Brightness setting, but it's better to be checked. It's altering the color temperature of the grayscale for sure.
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post #1061 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, according to LG enginers, something that came out the last days is the the OLED Light is working as ABL limit slider, so with higher setting, the ABL is the minimal possible; so It's not working exactly like backlight of LED-LCD, while it's adjusting the peak output also (like LED/LCD)

I have asked from a LG user to do a quick test to confirm this, last month, here he has posted the results: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post50843585

I have seen that it's not affecting the Contrast/Brightness setting, but it's better to be checked. It's altering the color temperature of the grayscale for sure.
@ConnectTeDDD

Thank you very much for the info.
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post #1062 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Thanks for the measurements, what are you using for patch generation? Is it easy from you to just display a Contrast pattern and a Color Clipping pattern from any calibration disk you have and compare to see how the flashing bars are affected? (+ a Brightness Pattern)
Hi Ted,
I've used patterns from your calibration disk (mkv files version) - copied them to a USB flash drive and played with PS4 Pro video player.
PS4 video player is clipping both white and color WTW levels (>236) in all modes (RGB Full/Limited, TV HDMI High/Low, PC mode on/off) and irrespectively of TV Contrast and Brightness settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, the measurements can give a good idea of the deviations you have from the reference target.

To view artifacts or anomalies in color ramps or transitions of one color to another, I have about 150 Color Reproduction Patterns to my Calibration Disk and it's patterns has info about what levels it's testing.

So a measurement with an optical verification for issue of some patterns, both it will give you a complete idea of what is happening.
Thanks for pointing out the direction.
I've looked at all color ramps, gradients, linearization, color amplitude steps, etc., etc. and didn't notice any huge visible issues.
So even if there are some issues left I guess I can live with them (at least while I can't see them of course)

--
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post #1063 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by M-V View Post
Hi Ted,
I've used patterns from your calibration disk (mkv files version) - copied them to a USB flash drive and played with PS4 Pro video player.
PS4 video player is clipping both white and color WTW levels (>236) in all modes (RGB Full/Limited, TV HDMI High/Low, PC mode on/off) and irrespectively of TV Contrast and Brightness settings.

Thanks for pointing out the direction.
I've looked at all color ramps, gradients, linearization, color amplitude steps, etc., etc. and didn't notice any huge visible issues.
So even if there are some issues left I guess I can live with them (at least while I can't see them of course)

--
Vladimir
Hi Vladimir,

It will be interesting to test what is happening with Contrast/Brightness/Color Clipping mainly (and other color reproduction patterns) using a classic blu-ray you may have to another room etc... to see what is happening when the player can display above reference white etc..

I haven't checked PS4 PRO, but PS3 with YCbCr and Super White ON it was giving WTW bars visible. (I don't know if PS4 PRO has that option to be sure, I have never tested PS4 PRO, but there plans to examine it for digital level errors soon)

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post #1064 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, according to LG enginers, something that came out the last days is the the OLED Light is working as ABL limit slider, so with higher setting, the ABL is the minimal possible; so It's not working exactly like backlight of LED-LCD, while it's adjusting the peak output also (like LED/LCD)

I have asked from a LG user to do a quick test to confirm this, last month, here he has posted the results: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post50843585

I have seen that it's not affecting the Contrast/Brightness setting, but it's better to be checked. It's altering the color temperature of the grayscale for sure.
Tedd can you give more info on how it affects color temp ?




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post #1065 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Tedd can you give more info on how it affects color temp ?
OK, I mean that when you have calibrated with OLED Light 60, if you change and reduce to 30 it will need re-calibration of RGB Balance.
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post #1066 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi Vladimir,

It will be interesting to test what is happening with Contrast/Brightness/Color Clipping mainly (and other color reproduction patterns) using a classic blu-ray you may have to another room etc... to see what is happening when the player can display above reference white etc..

I haven't checked PS4 PRO, but PS3 with YCbCr and Super White ON it was giving WTW bars visible. (I don't know if PS4 PRO has that option to be sure, I have never tested PS4 PRO, but there plans to examine it for digital level errors soon)
I don't have any physical BluRay calibration discs.. but just checked White and Color Clipping youtube videos within Pro's web-browser - WTW is clipped.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to your test. It would be great if you could test it connected to a LG OLED with PC mode enabled.
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post #1067 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
OK, I mean that when you have calibrated with OLED Light 60, if you change and reduce to 30 it will need re-calibration of RGB Balance.
how drastic a swing is it ?




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post #1068 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post
how drastic a swing is it ?
I don't remember because I don't own LG OLED, it came out while I was calibrating.

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post #1069 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-V View Post
I don't have any physical BluRay calibration discs.. but just checked White and Color Clipping youtube videos within Pro's web-browser - WTW is clipped.
Anyway, I'm looking forward to your test. It would be great if you could test it connected to a LG OLED with PC mode enabled.
Don't use You-Tube because re-encodes any video you will upload, it's expanding the Video to PC Levels also (adding errors also), so it's impossible to see ant WTW...the digital levels will be changed and will not provide the same accuracy with the original encoded content.

For example in this ChromaPure 4-Point Amplitude Chapter you can find 100% Saturation with 100% Stimulus or 100% Saturation with 75% Stimulus patterns but I'm not suggesting to use them as reference since you-tube has tweaked them during re-encoding.


You-Tube has expand the video levels to PC levels, for example 100% White is 255, and not 235 as the original file I uploaded, also youtube re-encoding added their own signature to RGB Triplets.

100% Red was 235.16.16 and it became 233.0.2 and supposed to be 255.0.0 after expanding video -> data levels.

100% Green was 16.235.16 and it became 20.255.9 and supposed to be 0.255.0 after expanding video -> data levels.

100% Blue was 16.16.235 and it became 3.0.245 and supposed to be 0.0.255 after expanding video -> data levels.

100% Yellow was 235.235.26 and it became 252.255.10 and supposed to be 255.255.0 after expanding video -> data levels.

100% Cyan was 16.235.235 and it became 22.255.253 and supposed to be 0.255.255 after expanding video -> data levels.

100% Magenta was 235.16.235 and it became 235.0.246 and supposed to be 255.0.255 after expanding video -> data levels.

The same issue with incorrect levels the Advanced Brightness Pattern has, I recommend only to view it for 'demo/sample' reason, not based to this pattern to do any adjustment.

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post #1070 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 03:45 PM
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I don't remember because I don't own LG OLED, it came out while I was calibrating.
Thanks my friend




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post #1071 of 2005 Old 03-14-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, according to LG enginers, something that came out the last days is the the OLED Light is working as ABL limit slider, so with higher setting, the ABL is the minimal possible; so It's not working exactly like backlight of LED-LCD, while it's adjusting the peak output also (like LED/LCD)

I have asked from a LG user to do a quick test to confirm this, last month, here he has posted the results: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post50843585

I have seen that it's not affecting the Contrast/Brightness setting, but it's better to be checked. It's altering the color temperature of the grayscale for sure.
This is not true at all (OLED Light controling ABL).
I've done a lot of testing trying to see what can effect ABL dimming and how it behaves.
What is shown in harlekin's test is how contrast and brightness effect ABL. OLED Light has makes no difference at all. He would have noticed this if he compared OLED at high and low values for each of his configurations.

I've tried to make a low contrast/brightness dimming setup work, but all my results either raised blacks, had colors clipping or the white balance control alignment was so terrible that I was limited to a few working controls and adjustment steps on those were at like 0.02 nits per step

I didn't consider how a 3D LUT might work with this, but I couldn't get acceptable results using all possible display controls (user menu and service menu!).
And again, OLED Light has nothing to do with ABL dimming. This is a hardware level power saving feature (circuit design to get some EnergySaver rating. Sort of like how movies/games will change things to reach a specific ESRB/MPAA ratings, only this is for marketing purposes and not market expansion).
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post #1072 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
This is not true at all (OLED Light controling ABL).
I've done a lot of testing trying to see what can effect ABL dimming and how it behaves.
What is shown in harlekin's test is how contrast and brightness effect ABL. OLED Light has makes no difference at all. He would have noticed this if he compared OLED at high and low values for each of his configurations.

I've tried to make a low contrast/brightness dimming setup work, but all my results either raised blacks, had colors clipping or the white balance control alignment was so terrible that I was limited to a few working controls and adjustment steps on those were at like 0.02 nits per step

I didn't consider how a 3D LUT might work with this, but I couldn't get acceptable results using all possible display controls (user menu and service menu!).
And again, OLED Light has nothing to do with ABL dimming. This is a hardware level power saving feature (circuit design to get some EnergySaver rating. Sort of like how movies/games will change things to reach a specific ESRB/MPAA ratings, only this is for marketing purposes and not market expansion).
Can you post your measurements to show that OLED Light is not affecting ABL? We need to see what is happening with a calibrated 120nit Peak Output. As Harkekin data show, the ABL is much improved and is affecting ABL.

Vincent from HDTVtest.co.uk says the same for OLED Light slider (that controls ABL) here:

About 3D LUT, since I don't own an LG OLED, I had a change to make 3D LUT using eeColor 3D LUT Box and LightSpace 2 times, so the first time I did 17-Point Cube (4913 Colors...took 1H20M) and here are the results (I used CalMAN only for verification of the 3D LUT generated from LightSpace):








and another date I did 21-Point Cube (9261 Colors...took 2H30M) and here are the results:







So I had 2 successful 3D LUT calibrations, with a display which was new from me....calibrating only 100% White from LG Controls (with RGB-High of 2-Point White Balance Controls). I'm doing 3D LUT from 2011 with LightSpace, never had a single issue.

I entered to Service menu only to disable ASBL, nothing else.

Before doing the 3D LUT, I lost about 6 hours of my life until to realize how had the internal calibration controls were, in SDR, SDR 3D, in HDR, and find out their working range of adjustments for HDR looking various HDR movie scenes and patterns to locate issues that the amazing dE Charts I had from calibration controls had no luck in real content performance.
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post #1073 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, according to LG enginers, something that came out the last days is the the OLED Light is working as ABL limit slider, so with higher setting, the ABL is the minimal possible; so It's not working exactly like backlight of LED-LCD, while it's adjusting the peak output also (like LED/LCD)

I have asked from a LG user to do a quick test to confirm this, last month, here he has posted the results: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post50843585

I have seen that it's not affecting the Contrast/Brightness setting, but it's better to be checked. It's altering the color temperature of the grayscale for sure.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2742673

Those are some really interesting results of testing by harlekin. Based on this why wouldn't one just do all calibrations with oled light at max? If I'm reading the results correctly it seems much more stable.

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post #1074 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 09:01 AM
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Just to be a stickler, but from a scientific point of view need atleast1 more comparison in there as a control.
You have 2 different options as a comparison, but are changing 2 settings so can really only compare the combinations.
You can't judge that OLED light High reduces ABSL, only that the combination of OLED Light high with Contrast low decreases ABSL.


Would need to do some further testing to figure out if it is the Contrast being reduced or the OLED light high that is the culprit.
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post #1075 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike__P View Post
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2742673

Those are some really interesting results of testing by harlekin. Based on this why wouldn't one just do all calibrations with oled light at max? If I'm reading the results correctly it seems much more stable.

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About a year ago Chadb recommended this method of calibrating the LG. When set OLED to 100, the ABL is minimized and you need to use the contrast control to lower the luminance of the set. The problem is when you lower the contrast lower than around 80, the PQ starts to degrade in a couple of different ways. Unless you have a very bright room, setting OLED to 100 and Contrast to 80 may be too bright for many users.

If you look at most of these forums on the 2016 LG OLED, the first page or two has all the issues and resolutions that users have experimented with. Unfortunately, not everyone takes the time to read the beginning of the forum so this comes up over and over again

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post #1076 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 10:11 AM
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About a year ago Chadb recommended this method of calibrating the LG. When set OLED to 100, the ABL is minimized and you need to use the contrast control to lower the luminance of the set. The problem is when you lower the contrast lower than around 80, the PQ starts to degrade in a couple of different ways. Unless you have a very bright room, setting OLED to 100 and Contrast to 80 may be too bright for many users.

If you look at most of these forums on the 2016 LG OLED, the first page or two has all the issues and resolutions that users have experimented with. Unfortunately, not everyone takes the time to read the beginning of the forum so this comes up over and over again


Was actually going to circle back to this. If was proven that Oled Light is the root cause and not the combination or Oled High/Contrast Low. Would it be possible to combine the two with using 2-pt High to set brightness?

I know this flies in the face of pretty much standardized calibration procedure, but would it be much more of a stretch then the concept of @Kamikaze_Ice idea for using 2-pt low to set black levels?


i.e. Contrast 85 for maximum bit depth as pointed out in beginning of thread, and Oled at 90~100 to minimize ABL then 2 pt High RGB cut or Luminance down to set brightness to target value.


I don't remember this concept being mentioned at the beginning of the thread.

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post #1077 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 10:18 AM
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The result that I have attached about my colorimeter matrix profile that I get on my 55B6 are normal?
Unfortunately I get no precise results even with Lightspace and especially Calman.
The colorimeter is a i1DisplayPro and the specto a i1Pro2.
The difference between the spectro and the colorimeter (corrected) especially on red and a green depends on the poor quality of the TV?
On a display with other technology but the exact same workflow I got much better results.
Can anyone verify if the results of their meter profile with DisplayCal are similar to my please?
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post #1078 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 10:32 AM
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The result that I have attached about my colorimeter matrix profile that I get on my 55B6 are normal?
Unfortunately I get no precise results even with Lightspace and especially Calman.
The colorimeter is a i1DisplayPro and the specto a i1Pro2.
The difference between the spectro and the colorimeter (corrected) especially on red and a green depends on the poor quality of the TV?
On a display with other technology but the exact same workflow I got much better results.
Can anyone verify if the results of their meter profile with DisplayCal are similar to my please?
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post #1079 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 11:53 AM
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Was actually going to circle back to this. If was proven that Oled Light is the root cause and not the combination or Oled High/Contrast Low. Would it be possible to combine the two with using 2-pt High to set brightness?

I know this flies in the face of pretty much standardized calibration procedure, but would it be much more of a stretch then the concept of @Kamikaze_Ice idea for using 2-pt low to set black levels?


i.e. Contrast 85 for maximum bit depth as pointed out in beginning of thread, and Oled at 90~100 to minimize ABL then 2 pt High RGB cut or Luminance down to set brightness to target value.


I don't remember this concept being mentioned at the beginning of the thread.
I just don't know and the only way to find out is to experiment and see what happens. My caution is that you will probably need to cut the 2pt pretty significantly and this set doesn't like large adjustments.

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post #1080 of 2005 Old 03-15-2017, 12:00 PM
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I just don't know and the only way to find out is to experiment and see what happens. My caution is that you will probably need to cut the 2pt pretty significantly and this set doesn't like large adjustments.

I agree it might not be worth the effort, its more just a thought exercise.
I followed advice of first two pages and got the calibrations results I was happy with. I don't notice ABL showing up in normal content enough to run and do this.
If someone else has time to experiment, I'd be interested just in what results.


If I have time on a weekend, I may try this just to see what happens with an unused preset to not lose the work I've done.
Wife doesn't really like giving up the main television for a couple hours just for tinkering.
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