***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 41 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1201 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
So then i must not follow that part on the Chromapure 3 guide and use Delta2000, right?

Also... Reading the HDR Oled 2016 grayscale guide, it says to put the TV at a max of 540nits, why? i mean, why should i get less nits if my tv can output about 650?

For image retention i always use this for about 10/20secs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppWrX2ANsN4 then it's gone

God, i feel like i'm on kids school again xD

Looks like my order is gonna be sended today! hopefully i can start to calibrate my tv by friday !

PS: Read my post must hurt your eyes, sorry for my bad english xDD

PS2: @JNayAV on this forum there's a ton of post talking of the same

What I have found is that if you leave the contrast and OLED at it's default max brightness, after a proper calibration, 668 will be near 540 nits anyway. No need to lower the luminance of the set since "most" HDR content is on the dark side and you want the panel to be as bright as possible. LG says to set 668 to 540 nits so that "you see what the director intended", meaning that the tone mapping will be more accurate. With HDR content mastered all over the place these days, i'm not sure if this really applies. Personally, I want the set to display as bright as it can in HDR. Also, you will see that 668 may be at 590 nits for example leaving everything at default and you wouldn't be able to see the difference so at this point, with this set, it's probably not worth the extra work trying to force 668 to 540.
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post #1202 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
The 540 nits part as not worded well. It's saying to put control point 668 to 540 nits. THIS IS NOT PEAK OUTPUT, and is more like 75%.
If you're using Masciola's HDR disc you can check a 1000 not 100% white pattern for true peak.

And try watching that video in a window for 3 minutes, not full screen, then look at a full screen 5% black full screen field (AVSHD 709 disc is free and has them). You will see what's really happening when you think that is "fixing" image retention.
This is a voltage problem and not sub-pixel shutter problem.
Then i should follow the guide up to 668, where i just correct the RGB and nothing more?

I'm still trying to understand how EOTF correction works on HDR, since you cannot touch luminance as like on SDR @[email protected]

There's too much files on masciona hdr patterns, but from all those, on Oled B6 i dont know which ones should i use :S
The LG patterns are in the "Miscellaneous" setup patterns folder, in the LG patterns folder.
You can use any other 100% white pattern from the "other not patterns" folder, also in the miscellaneous folder.

To adjust luminance you adjust R/B/G up or down together. Red+green+blue = white, so bigger numbers = brighter whites.
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post #1203 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
In an effort to save you some money... Er, wait, I'm starting off on the wrong foot here...

Have you tried various techniques in THIS thread? You can get all the shadow detail you want from a few methods in that thread if Buzzards' quick n dirty method is not to your liking.
Just remember every panel is different, and don't let anyone see you wearing toilet roll goggles if you gotta set black in a non-cave environment.



I'm not trying to dissuade you from a calibration, but if improving shadows is your only desire then it's not needed.
i tried the techniques mentioned in the thread but gave me subpar image quality. i noticed quite a bit of washed out graininess when increasing luminance in 5% IRE. OOB experience is quite good but the crushed blacks is somewhat of an issue for me. Not a dealbreaker by any means but something I'd like to improve upon.
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post #1204 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by aohus View Post
i tried the techniques mentioned in the thread but gave me subpar image quality. i noticed quite a bit of washed out graininess when increasing luminance in 5% IRE. OOB experience is quite good but the crushed blacks is somewhat of an issue for me. Not a dealbreaker by any means but something I'd like to improve upon.
And there's the rub. Bringing out the shadow detail also makes near-black stuff look really bad sometimes. I'm pretty convinced it's (mostly) the source material, and not the actual TV. Blu-rays look great, but most stuff on cable will have grainy, noisy blacks. The black crush OOTB is not a minor thing; there's a lot of detail missing.
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post #1205 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 02:37 PM
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@Kamikaze_Ice should i turn ASBL off for my B6 before calibration? because i have no mobile phone with IR, so i will have to ask to someone of my family to let me use his Samsung Galaxy to access using your layout for the app

Its worth deactivate it? or should i leave it on and it will be enough?
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post #1206 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 02:39 PM
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Hi folks,
I've been reading, learning, and practicing calibration for a few weeks on my new 65E6. Now it's time to dive in and do a real white balance and gamma calibration. I'm planning to follow fafrd's hybrid gamma curve. So far, my main question is: Is it possible to enter a custom gamma curve into HCFR so I can use the modified target Y values? Or do I just need to track this manually in a separate spreadsheet? I haven't been able to find a way to do this via trial-and-error in HCFR or by googling, but I thought it would be worth asking.

TIA!
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post #1207 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
@Kamikaze_Ice should i turn ASBL off for my B6 before calibration? because i have no mobile phone with IR, so i will have to ask to someone of my family to let me use his Samsung Galaxy to access using your layout for the app

Its worth deactivate it? or should i leave it on and it will be enough?
I have mine turned off, and to lazy to verify anything, but you should have somewhere around 60-120 seconds before ASBL kicks in (you can easily time this with a smartphone stopwatch (Native Android Clock, no clue about iCrap ). Then all you need to do is change the screen enough before it kicks in.
I think Chad has described how he does this in this very thread.

So no, you don't NEED to disable it to calibrate. It does make things easier, but this is totally optional.
Also, I don't have another phone to try my IR Plus config out. It is possible that a different IR Blaster will not get the same results. I was just simply sharing what I managed to cobble together by randomly trying things out. I have no clue how to port the codes I used to different sequences.

I don't suspect any issues with any built-in Android IR blasters, but anything can happen. I just want to make that clear to you and others if I wasn't already in that post with the files, and that I'm to stupid to help beyond that
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post #1208 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 05:28 PM
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Figured I'd add this to the calibration thread as well, for the sake of promoting more constructive discussion (or most likely "Kami wtf you crazy look at that Contrast/Brightness!")

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
I think it's time I share my current, but not final, calibration for SDR content on my E6.
What I've done:
Service menu adjustments for aligning HDR 20-point controls.
Set black with 2-point low to clean up noise/banding/strong dithering patterns near blacks and dark greys...
AND tamed ABL for a white at 120 nits (a 90% window of 100% white is ~115 nits, and a 100% field of 100% white is ~100 nits.

I've added my settings for reference, and HERE is a screenshot of my grayscale (still playing with color/cms combinations).

If anyone has any questions about my settings below, I'll gladly explain... but only a few days after when asked.
I want to encourage others to think outside the box when trying to understand them before I say anything.
I don't think any professional calibrator would approve of my process. Just sayin'
I don't recommend others use these. Different panels are different. What works on my may be worse for yours. Won't stop you from trying though.

Remember, service menu changes are GLOBAL. They will effect HDR, SDR, and all inputs, signals, presets, icon modes, etc. You have been warned.


Service Menu
*These are NOT needed to get the black detail, and only used to align 20-point controls in HDR10 mode*
Sub B/C
Sub B = 126 (default 128)
Sub C = 127 (default 128)

*These are NOT needed to get the black detail, and only used because darkest HDR 20-point control (#127) is totally screwed and a +/-1 step is like +/-50 with any other control. These are effectively 2-point white balance controls for both HDR and SDR at the same time.
White Balance
Medium (So I can compare to default Warm when using Warm 2)
Red Gain = 206 (default 192)
Green Gain = 195 (default 181)
Blue Gain = 123(default 182)
Red Cut = 50 (default 64)
Green Cut = 42 (default 64)
Blue Cut = 51 (default 64)
---
User Settings (ISF, PC Icon Mode)
*Note: I've forgotten the default settings, and to lazy to reset my 20-point controls again to find out, sorry )
OLED Light = 93
Contrast = 50
Brightness = 65
Gamma option = 2.4 (I use this regardless of the gamma target I want. Sometimes you can't fix clipping with 20-point controls and 2.4 gives me the most leeway to do so.)


White Balance
*Used the CCSS shared by SillySally for his OLED. White is perceptually closer to D65. Not cool (blueish) or sickly (greenish) compared to other CCSS files or matrix corrections I've found.

*(Red / Green / Blue)*
2-point High = -36 / -36 / -25
2-point Low = -49 / -50 / -39

*(Luminance / Red / Green / Blue)*
5 = -11 / -1 / 1 / 0
10 = -18 / 0 / 0 / -2
15 = -16 / 5 / 0 / 5
20 = -14 / 6 / 0 / 6
25 = -14 / 8 / 0 / 9
30 = -13 / 11 / 0 / 11
35 = -12 / 11 / 0 / 13
40 = -11 / 12 / 0 / 14
45 = -7 / 13 / 0 / 16
50 = -5 / 15 / 0 / 18
55 = -1 / 14 / 0 / 19
60 = 4 / 14 / 0 / 18
65 = 3 / 14 / 0 / 18
70 = 13 / 14 / 0 / 19
75 = 15 / 13 / 0 / 17
80 = 18 / 13 / 0 / 18
85 = 16 / 12 / 0 / 14
90 = 27 / 12 / 0 / 18
95 = 32 / 17 / 0 / 18
100 = -38 / 13 / -1 / 13

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post #1209 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanut Butter View Post
Hi folks,
I've been reading, learning, and practicing calibration for a few weeks on my new 65E6. Now it's time to dive in and do a real white balance and gamma calibration. I'm planning to follow fafrd's hybrid gamma curve. So far, my main question is: Is it possible to enter a custom gamma curve into HCFR so I can use the modified target Y values? Or do I just need to track this manually in a separate spreadsheet? I haven't been able to find a way to do this via trial-and-error in HCFR or by googling, but I thought it would be worth asking.

TIA!
Since you're wanting a curve, I'm assuming you're wanting a modified "1886" curve.

This is easy with HCFR.
In the options, there is a "black override" option. Use that, and enter the nits you want 0/black to be. Then you check the "Editable Data" box, then edit the Y of 100% to your desired level. I believe fafrd stayed with 170 nits, so you would enter 170 and it will ask you if you want to rescale Y targets to all values and simply say "Yes".
You can check what your Gamma "value" is (what the Y Targets represent, determined by your Black/0% and White/100% Y values) on the "Gamma" page. Just mouse over the white boxes (your targets). Would be nice if we could see this in a more user friendly way, which Zoyd has mentioned himself.

Also, don't actually calibrate your black to this. You want black to be black as black black is.

Additionally, see those radio buttons to the right of the measurement window (above the measure all and delete buttons?) By default it's set to xyY.
Switch it to RGB. This will change the calibration rows from x/y/Y to R709/G709/B709. These are luminance numbers (170 nits = 170 for all three)
Just make those numbers match the Y Target and bam you've got white balance at your desired gamma.

Be sure to start at 100% and work your way down. Every time you measure 100%, all "Y Target"s will change. Once 100% is close to your target (like 197-173), switch back to xyY mode, change the Y value to what you want (like 170 nits), then switch back and don't remeasure 100% until you finish the rest of them.
Rinse and repeat until satisfied.

As far as I know, any Delta Error (for any error formula option in HCFR) that is below 1 is below the JND (just noticeable difference). As the name implies, it's not really practical to go lower than this (takes time that you could have spent actually enjoying the display instead.)
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post #1210 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
What I have found is that if you leave the contrast and OLED at it's default max brightness, after a proper calibration, 668 will be near 540 nits anyway. No need to lower the luminance of the set since "most" HDR content is on the dark side and you want the panel to be as bright as possible. LG says to set 668 to 540 nits so that "you see what the director intended", meaning that the tone mapping will be more accurate. With HDR content mastered all over the place these days, i'm not sure if this really applies. Personally, I want the set to display as bright as it can in HDR. Also, you will see that 668 may be at 590 nits for example leaving everything at default and you wouldn't be able to see the difference so at this point, with this set, it's probably not worth the extra work trying to force 668 to 540.
I don't quite agree with this, but you already know this.
However, to be practical here, I agree with you. IMO it's one of those thing that once seen cannot be unseen. And you know how OCD I am.




---



If anyone is interested:
To get an idea of how the tone mapping that LG does (content nits can change depending on what 668 measures, you can use MadVR to convert HDR to SDR via shaders.
The lantern flame right at the beginning of LG's HDR demo Colors of Journey is a nice quick reference.
Set MadVR to "0% luminance reduction 100% saturation" and compare 500, 540 and 580 nits.
You can see a difference in how tone mapped content is transitioning to and from non-tone mapped content (basically exactly how MadVR converts HDR to SDR peak luminance.)
Now this is exaggerated due to the HDR>SDR conversion, but IMO still similar to true HDR content in HDR mode.

On my E6 it's not just what 668 is set to, but 637, 653 and 668. Without service menu and contrast adjustments I never could separate those three points enough, one was always very close to another (created a slight contour in early tone mapped content, like the crater rims in the LG NASA demo video.
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post #1211 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
Since you're wanting a curve, I'm assuming you're wanting a modified "1886" curve.

This is easy with HCFR.
In the options, there is a "black override" option. Use that, and enter the nits you want 0/black to be. Then you check the "Editable Data" box, then edit the Y of 100% to your desired level. I believe fafrd stayed with 170 nits, so you would enter 170 and it will ask you if you want to rescale Y targets to all values and simply say "Yes".
You can check what your Gamma "value" is (what the Y Targets represent, determined by your Black/0% and White/100% Y values) on the "Gamma" page. Just mouse over the white boxes (your targets). Would be nice if we could see this in a more user friendly way, which Zoyd has mentioned himself.

Also, don't actually calibrate your black to this. You want black to be black as black black is.

Additionally, see those radio buttons to the right of the measurement window (above the measure all and delete buttons?) By default it's set to xyY.
Switch it to RGB. This will change the calibration rows from x/y/Y to R709/G709/B709. These are luminance numbers (170 nits = 170 for all three)
Just make those numbers match the Y Target and bam you've got white balance at your desired gamma.

Be sure to start at 100% and work your way down. Every time you measure 100%, all "Y Target"s will change. Once 100% is close to your target (like 197-173), switch back to xyY mode, change the Y value to what you want (like 170 nits), then switch back and don't remeasure 100% until you finish the rest of them.
Rinse and repeat until satisfied.

As far as I know, any Delta Error (for any error formula option in HCFR) that is below 1 is below the JND (just noticeable difference). As the name implies, it's not really practical to go lower than this (takes time that you could have spent actually enjoying the display instead.)
Thanks! But it would seem that you can't edit the target points between 0 and 100, right? This is easier than what I thought I'd need to do, though, I appreciate it.
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post #1212 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Peanut Butter View Post
Thanks! But it would seem that you can't edit the target points between 0 and 100, right? This is easier than what I thought I'd need to do, though, I appreciate it.
Are you trying to hit specific gamma values, like say 5%@2.2, 10%@2.3, 15%@2.35 and 20-100%@2.4?
Anyways, it's not a real elegant solution but once you know your black and white Y values, you can manually enter a Y in the box for any point then look at the gamma page and mouse over your "yellow" point to see it's gamma value.

Then save that file and start a new one to calibrate with (File > Duplicate, carry all settings over)
Now select one of those as the reference file and minimize it.
You can see your reference targets in the other file. This way you don't have to write anything down or memorize anything.

Personally I run with three files for one calibration. One as a reference (last "good" calibration) and two that I bounce back and forth with (so I can have a before and after measurement. Makes it easier to calibrate with sweeps, IMO.
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post #1213 of 2010 Old 03-28-2017, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
Figured I'd add this to the calibration thread as well, for the sake of promoting more constructive discussion (or most likely "Kami wtf you crazy look at that Contrast/Brightness!")
I suggest everyone not to use any kind of this settings I've NEVER saw a Panel of the 2016 OLEDs and I calibrated more than 15 TV's of this series wich needed such high WB adjustments. Even though if you touch 2p low Red and Blue you will loose 0mll. You used also the luminance controls see what happens when you touch them https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post45436297

You try do find a hidden way to calibrate your set thats good for you but other users who are not familiar with calibration should be aware that's not the best way.

Here are my results for a 65 B6 and 65 E6 without eecolor only used 2p high @100 IRE and 20p RGB Values. The CMS is completly untouched

OLED 28 ~ 125 nits
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Color 47
Tint G3
Sharpness H/V 0
Gamma BT.1886

All enhancments off

E6 Model



B6 Model
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post #1214 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
What I have found is that if you leave the contrast and OLED at it's default max brightness, after a proper calibration, 668 will be near 540 nits anyway.
Can you be more specific about your method of proper calibration?

I`ve find with my B6 that if OLED and contrast are left to 100 it is quite hard to reach ST2084 curve at 40-70 % luminance region. It can be done by lowering RGB values a lot but when eyeballing a grayscale ramp it is not linear.

By lowering the OLED value the ST2084 can be matched quite closely and grayscale stays linear. I suspect the LG boys know the limitation of their HDR calibration system and that is why they recommend the 540 nit procedure.
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post #1215 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackJoker View Post
I suggest everyone not to use any kind of this settings I've NEVER saw a Panel of the 2016 OLEDs and I calibrated more than 15 TV's of this series wich needed such high WB adjustments. Even though if you touch 2p low Red and Blue you will loose 0mll. You used also the luminance controls see what happens when you touch them https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post45436297

You try do find a hidden way to calibrate your set thats good for you but other users who are not familiar with calibration should be aware that's not the best way.

Here are my results for a 65 B6 and 65 E6 without eecolor only used 2p high @100 IRE and 20p RGB Values. The CMS is completly untouched

OLED 28 ~ 125 nits
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Color 47
Tint G3
Sharpness H/V 0
Gamma BT.1886

All enhancments off

E6 Model



B6 Model

Do you also have some graphs of your gamut sweeps 25% and Fleshtones whit your manually 2p 20p whites only?
I'm just curious about your way touching color to 47 and Tint G3...



Anyways I'll like to share in here also my settings whit eeColor. Aim an 130 nits for generate a 3D LUT 3.000 points whit Black full field compensation after 4sec. 2sec.of blacks (best compromise with our i1D3 profiled with JETI 1211. The LUT profile to finish it requires about 2hours 50mins.
I tried more points like a 4913 but requires a lot more time over 5 hours and I thing with our meter it wasn't worth! Sometimes something goes wrong and also loses a couples of nits with gamma tracks shifted a little bit in the end of the curve maybe worse... For that reason I choose to use 3.000 points only and in the end the final result viewing experience is really outstanding and beautiful gamma tracks, and of course colors experience!


Anyways here we are, my start settings pre LUT

Oled light 33
Contrast 84
Brightness 52 (used in this case 2p CUT (R0 G-11 B-2) for get pure black panel again and less green over grayscale without lose 0.5% and 2p gain (R-1 G-2 B+6) )
Sharpness 0/0
Colour 50 (gamut wide only for 3D lut. Without eecolor set it to "Normal")
Tint 0
Real cinema ON
everything else OFF
Gamma 2.2 (for my the best compromise for almost all movies someone's needs 2.4 or BT1886 with eecolor it's a pice cake really pressing a button you can jump to one LUT (gamma 2.2) to another retarget Lut with a different gamma 2.3/2.4 :-)





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TV LG 55B6v SB Samsung F355 TV2-Monitor Samsung UE32C6510 ColorimeterX-Rite EODIS3 i1 Display Pro (Rev B-02 Profiled by JETI 1211) Pattern Generator Raspberry Pi3 3DLUT BOX Truvue eeColor Router Netgear R7000+Open DD-WRT MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2009 SSD+HDD Console XboxOne S 1TB GoW4 Bundle Blu-ray Player Sony UBP-X800 - Panasonic DMP-UB310

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post #1216 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
Do you also have some graphs of your gamut sweeps 25% and Fleshtones whit your manually 2p 20p whites only?
I'm just curious about your way touching color to 47 and Tint G3...
unfortunately I only have the 25% sweeps of my manually calibration. I reduce Color and use tint pushing in green directin to get a little bit rid of the red faces. I know some other colors like cyan suffers quite a bit but that's a good compromise in order to get better skintones.

For my own 65 E6 im also using the eecolor here are my latest results. With Lightspace I created a 21^3 Cube with 9261 points. I'm using anisometric patch sequence and White Drift Compensation which helps a lot because the OLED's aren't stable TV's at all because of the ABL. I used a C6-HDR profiled against i1pro2 and I'm pretty happy. These set's just looking beautiful with the eecolor.





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post #1217 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 02:09 AM
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I just say Really impressive...

How long requires all that stuff?

TV LG 55B6v SB Samsung F355 TV2-Monitor Samsung UE32C6510 ColorimeterX-Rite EODIS3 i1 Display Pro (Rev B-02 Profiled by JETI 1211) Pattern Generator Raspberry Pi3 3DLUT BOX Truvue eeColor Router Netgear R7000+Open DD-WRT MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2009 SSD+HDD Console XboxOne S 1TB GoW4 Bundle Blu-ray Player Sony UBP-X800 - Panasonic DMP-UB310

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post #1218 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 02:39 AM
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It took round 6 hours but I went to bed and the morning after I got these nice results
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post #1219 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 02:57 AM
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It's great to see how well LightSpace works on such tricky displays.
(Especially the additions of Anisometric and Drift Compensation - as that is exactly why we added them.)
Thanks for posting!

Steve
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post #1220 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 03:03 AM
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But eecolor 3dlut box work fine with a 4k? i supposed that there was problems for not being native 4k but upscaled by the TV

How that thing works? i dont understand... you just put the 3Dlut, start the program and you totally forget about the TV and when you come back, it's calibrated? How? that thing is capable of touch the internal controls of the TV or what?, too bad i cannot spent more money right now

Also a 10/10 to www.chromapure.co.uk, if someone is from europe and wants to buy a profiled i1D3 like me, they're the best, answered so fast to everything, also they told me that my i1D3 has been profiled using a B6 too, cannot wait until friday to start my adventure in the terrorific world of calibration!
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post #1221 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 03:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Light Illusion View Post
It's great to see how well LightSpace works on such tricky displays.
(Especially the additions of Anisometric and Drift Compensation - as that is exactly why we added them.)
Thanks for posting!

Steve
Not only the results are much better even your support and the deep knowledge from Ted helped me a lot to get such great results. I can highly recommend Lightspace HTL if you want to get the most accurate picture.

TV: LG OLED 65C8 Sources: Apple TV 4K, OPPO UDP-203 Video Processor: TruVue eeColor
Probe: Klein K10-A, i1 Display Pro OEM Rev.B (2018), i1Pro2 OEM Rev.E Software: Lightspace HTP, Calman 2019 Ultimate
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post #1222 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Light Illusion View Post
It's great to see how well LightSpace works on such tricky displays.
(Especially the additions of Anisometric and Drift Compensation - as that is exactly why we added them.)
Thanks for posting!

Steve
I can say, starting also with 3.000 points on CalMAN 5 Enthusiast, is also a really great result!
Of course I'm curious to try it on LisghtSpace too, maybe one day

Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
But eecolor 3dlut box work fine with a 4k? i supposed that there was problems for not being native 4k but upscaled by the TV

How that thing works? i dont understand... you just put the 3Dlut, start the program and you totally forget about the TV and when you come back, it's calibrated? How? that thing is capable of touch the internal controls of the TV or what?, too bad i cannot spent more money right now

Also a 10/10 to www.chromapure.co.uk, if someone is from europe and wants to buy a profiled i1D3 like me, they're the best, answered so fast to everything, also they told me that my i1D3 has been profiled using a B6 too, cannot wait until friday to start my adventure in the terrorific world of calibration!
Yes it works like that so simple and easy about a manually calibration

The eeColor work with FHD 1080p signal only.

TV LG 55B6v SB Samsung F355 TV2-Monitor Samsung UE32C6510 ColorimeterX-Rite EODIS3 i1 Display Pro (Rev B-02 Profiled by JETI 1211) Pattern Generator Raspberry Pi3 3DLUT BOX Truvue eeColor Router Netgear R7000+Open DD-WRT MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2009 SSD+HDD Console XboxOne S 1TB GoW4 Bundle Blu-ray Player Sony UBP-X800 - Panasonic DMP-UB310
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post #1223 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
Yes it works like that so simple and easy about a manually calibration

The eeColor work with FHD 1080p signal only.
Jesus christ, so thats why they cost that much, now i understand... it's a bit of unfair that those things are out of reach for normal people X__x xD

I've tried to see videos of how it works on youtube, but there's no one, i'd like to see how the hell does that work <___<
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post #1224 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 04:52 AM
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Jesus christ, so thats why they cost that much, now i understand... it's a bit of unfair that those things are out of reach for normal people X__x xD
The eecolor is a piece of nothing when you see what results it can deliver. I never gonna sell this little boy

You pay only $299 for U.S. Delivery / $349 for International delivery it's a no brainer.

http://www.displaycalibrations.com/eecolor_order.html

When you come from germany don't hesitate to contact me via pm.
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post #1225 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackJoker View Post
The eecolor is a piece of nothing when you see what results it can deliver. I never gonna sell this little boy

You pay only $299 for U.S. Delivery / $349 for International delivery it's a no brainer.

http://www.displaycalibrations.com/eecolor_order.html

When you come from germany don't hesitate to contact me via pm.
but they said that it's for FHD only, not for 4K, then what? @____ @....

Also yes... 349 for international delivery, but with WHAT? because if they send it with DHL/Fedex/EMS then when it comes to spain, they will make me pay 21% more than that price just on customs!, cause those methods always cost that much xD
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post #1226 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 256k View Post
but they said that it's for FHD only, not for 4K, then what? @____ @....

Also yes... 349 for international delivery, but with WHAT? because if they send it with DHL/Fedex/EMS then when it comes to spain, they will make me pay 21% more than that price just on customs!, cause those methods always cost that much xD
It should be €40 more for customs services delivery that's it what I paid!

This is the best way to calibrate for a Bluray experiences also if you use the same payer for NETFLIX or even for KODI if you use an Raspberry..
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TV LG 55B6v SB Samsung F355 TV2-Monitor Samsung UE32C6510 ColorimeterX-Rite EODIS3 i1 Display Pro (Rev B-02 Profiled by JETI 1211) Pattern Generator Raspberry Pi3 3DLUT BOX Truvue eeColor Router Netgear R7000+Open DD-WRT MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2009 SSD+HDD Console XboxOne S 1TB GoW4 Bundle Blu-ray Player Sony UBP-X800 - Panasonic DMP-UB310
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post #1227 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L30Z3N View Post
It should be €40 more for customs services delivery that's it what I paid!

This is the best way to calibrate for a Bluray experiences also if you use the same payer for NETFLIX or even for KODI if you use an Raspberry..
Well, until next year i have no more money left to spent so... Anyway, knowing myself i know i'm gonna spent hours and hours and hours touching that 20 point balance until i reach the best DeltaE2000 values i can manually, probably if it arrives by tomorrow or friday i'll be the entire night calibrating the TV for sure
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post #1228 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJoker View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
Figured I'd add this to the calibration thread as well, for the sake of promoting more constructive discussion (or most likely "Kami wtf you crazy look at that Contrast/Brightness!")
I suggest everyone not to use any kind of this settings I've NEVER saw a Panel of the 2016 OLEDs and I calibrated more than 15 TV's of this series wich needed such high WB adjustments. Even though if you touch 2p low Red and Blue you will loose 0mll. You used also the luminance controls see what happens when you touch them https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post45436297

You try do find a hidden way to calibrate your set thats good for you but other users who are not familiar with calibration should be aware that's not the best way.

Here are my results for a 65 B6 and 65 E6 without eecolor only used 2p high @100 IRE and 20p RGB Values. The CMS is completly untouched

OLED 28 ~ 125 nits
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Color 47
Tint G3
Sharpness H/V 0
Gamma BT.1886

All enhancments off

E6 Model



B6 Model
You've not read anything I've been writing have you?
I have pure, true black. I'm in a very light controlled environment.

This is why I wanted to encourage thinking outside the box. There is not only a single way to calibrate a digital display. I'm not saying how my process is better, but I am saying its no worse.

Adjusting via luminance only causes issues if your balance is off to begin with.
On my E6, blue is so much stronger than green. This is blatantly obvious off you take the time and effort to compare the noise floor of each channel on a 0.5% black patch.

I'm not trying to argue here, and I'm sorry if it looks this way. I'm just dissapointed that you're dismissing something without questioning it.
Do you like Limburger cheese? Don't judge it until you try it.
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post #1229 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 09:02 AM
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***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
You've not read anything I've been writing have you?
I have pure, true black. I'm in a very light controlled environment.

That's right because your posts are longer than the books from lord of the rings.

How is it possible to have true blacks when you pushed 2p low and high values to the back end?

Don't get me wrong you can do what ever you like and calibrate your set like you want but everyone who has only a little bit experience knows that your settings are far way off.
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post #1230 of 2010 Old 03-29-2017, 09:32 AM
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That's right because your posts are longer than the books from lord of the rings.

How is it possible to have true blacks when you pushed 2p low and high values to the back end?

Don't get me wrong you can do what ever you like and calibrate your set like you want but everyone who has only a little bit experience knows that your settings are far way off.
Come on guys, calm down, this is like when i say that OLEDs clip the detail, if you guys use the Masciola Colour Clipping test, just change Black Level from Low to high, you'll see how now you can see the colours from 700nits (MAX at Low) to 1400 (Max at High), of course the peak brightness will be exactly the same, but now you can see all the clipped shadow detail+higher nits images, this allows me to see from a white blot (it's writen like that..?) to an almost perfect sun sphere (not perfect because i suppose it's even brighter than 1400nits), and this helps a lot too on movie playing

So i'll begin my HDR calibration from this base, not from Low black level, but from high, i'll show you my results!

low:


High:


(It's a bad camera shot, but look at the right)

if there's no way to calibrate it like that, it will be like a kick on the balls because i will lose those details like the sun, but well... Who knows! please, be tomorrow already! ;___;

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