***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 43 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1261 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
...

I'm making the best perceptual judgment I can with the restrictions I mentioned above, and I've narrowed it down to these two as best matching D65 to my parents old LM6200 that I borrowed and put in the living room (to make them a cabinet enclosure for their office room).

I) Non-Refresh with Judd-Voss white point
II) SillySally CCSS with RichB's Matrix and a Judd-Voss white point.
These are the two most neutral combinations from everything I've tried.
Yes I said Non-Refresh with a Judd-Voss white point. It does NOT look blue. In fact it actually does not look "cool" or "sickly green" that all of the non-SillySally configurations have!
I'm very satisfied with how neutral both of these look.
To my eyes, I) looks "warmer" than II), and neither have that "sickly green" tint or appear "cool" in any way.


TL;DR:
Since I don't know what is "correct", and a spectro I can afford would not answer that question either, I'm stuck with my lying useless eyeballs.
I will be using one of these two, most likely "Non-Refresh + Judd-Voss" as it's the warmer of the two.

I recommend to everyone to try the Judd-Voss white point, just don't calibrate using the Judd-Voss observer (stick with standard observer).

I hope we can come to a consensus for a defenitive white point for these LG OLEDs. Sony's may not be correct for the spectral response of these OLEDs, but it LOOKS far better than not using it, IMO.

If anyone else tries this white point (or makes their own) please share your thoughts.
Just to get a rough estimate and try for myself, what are the "attributes" of these two corrections? I.e. if you measure them afterwards without corrections, how do the R/G/B-values line up? (For example, 100% R, 100% G, 110% B etc.) I can't use any file corrections a.t.m. and have to rely on under/over-adjusting R/G/B.
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post #1262 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
The CMS controls, all of them, work fine now. Please make sure you have the latest firmware installed from LGs website.

Use the CMS controls with the color gamut set to Extended not Normal.
Extended? I always read "Normal for SDR", you sure?

I suppose that now for PS4/PC i have to calibrate it for... RGB Full?, so my actual calibration is in fact for nothing but just TV? now how i calibrate for that? if all patterns are for limited :S...
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post #1263 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Extended? I always read "Normal for SDR", you sure?

I suppose that now for PS4/PC i have to calibrate it for... RGB Full?, so my actual calibration is in fact for nothing but just TV? now how i calibrate for that? if all patterns are for limited :S...
Normal means "Auto". Auto/Normal automatically switches to the proper color gamut depending on the signal is receiving.
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post #1264 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Daryl L View Post
Normal means "Auto". Auto/Normal automatically switches to the proper color gamut depending on the signal is receiving.
and if i'm using 709 patterns, then i should use normal then, right? Extended tracks to DCI for what i've heard, no? (Edit: No, that's wide...)

Jesus christ..., too many questions on my mind and not enough people to answer them, i need an army for that @___ @ xDDD

Also my actual calibration for RGB Limited works for everything? or i'm loosing details on PS4/PC?

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post #1265 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
So far so good with the grayscale calibration, back to work, when i come back i have to put everything for 5/10% (Touched them wrong and everything was green, now i understand what you mean)... I've archieved an almost perfect grayscale to 2.4 with less than 1% DeltaE, for 5/10/15 where should i aim for? 2.2?

For what i've tested just before going back to work, jesus christ, what a change, the gamma 2.4 adds an entire new way to see the movies, what a depth, it was almost like if the things were about to pop out the screen, want to play Kingdom Hearts 1.5+2.5 later at [email protected], must be orgasmic to see

Also... Any free patterns for 15/25/35/45/55/65/75/85/95% grayscale? since the Chromapure blu-ray does not include them ??...

EDIT: Think i've found ones, want to be at home already!

PS: Once i've calibrated the entire grayscale and gamma... everything should be OK when i try the color gamut, right? i mean, no more extreme "big errors" and all that, right? because since CMS is broken.. all left is.. Tint? i can only touch that, right?, because Saturation and Luminance is broken
The CMS controls, all of them, work fine now. Please make sure you have the latest firmware installed from LGs website.

Use the CMS controls with the color gamut set to Extended not Normal.
I tried cms again on c6 with extended but they still cause big problems.
U.K. Set with latest FW
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post #1266 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
The CMS controls, all of them, work fine now. Please make sure you have the latest firmware installed from LGs website.

Use the CMS controls with the color gamut set to Extended not Normal.
I just installed 04.31.15 on my B6 and will try the CMS controls tonight.


- Rich
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post #1267 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 03:20 PM
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Guys, the Chromapure disk on PS4/Xbox One says that my gamma is 2.4, but if i use the signal generator on PC it says that is 2.1 and totally wrong, which one should i trust?
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post #1268 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
...snip...
Since I don't know what is "correct", and a spectro I can afford would not answer that question either, I'm stuck with my lying useless eyeballs.
I will be using one of these two, most likely "Non-Refresh + Judd-Voss" as it's the warmer of the two.

I recommend to everyone to try the Judd-Voss white point, just don't calibrate using the Judd-Voss observer (stick with standard observer).

I hope we can come to a consensus for a defenitive white point for these LG OLEDs. Sony's may not be correct for the spectral response of these OLEDs, but it LOOKS far better than not using it, IMO.

If anyone else tries this white point (or makes their own) please share your thoughts.
Seems that a couple of us with higher end spectro's came to the conclusion that Judd-Voss white points on a LG OLED was too magenta. That's not to say that if someone is using a colorimeter that's off towards green, that it wouldn't neutralize the magenta. Then you've got the environmental factors influencing your perception of color. My reference monitor that appears absolutely neutral in a dark room actually looks a little yellow in the same room that my LG OLED is in. Probably due to a combination of wall, carpet and light in the room. So although I'm a stickler for getting my graphs looking good, how the display appears while in use is more important. ....and I don't doubt that my 64 year old eyes aren't just a bit off too which might matter if I was calibrating someone else's display but this is my personal display.

I do appreciate other's input and thank you for yours.
This is why I chose to not purchase a spectro. Without a reference, you're no better off because you wouldn't know if your spectra is accurate.
In other threads I've seen some discussion on how well or not a spectral correction deals with wide gamut and how they correlate to our perception. Discussion usually ends with users uncertain unless they have super high end gear and equally high end references, and only a few enthusiasts are willing and capable of going that far.

Perhaps we could extrapolate some kind of answer by comparing differences in correction matrices?
A proposal for you pro-calibrators:
Head-fi has a headphone tour where the well known and trustworthy community members (reviewers and select enthusiasts) will send gear around from person to person to get reviewed and tested.
Perhaps AVS could do something like this with meters?
I propose this for the pros, since some of them seem to meet up every now and then.
10k meters Vs 1-3k headphones is a huge price difference though and I would totally understand why no one would want to ship a meter to someone...


That aside, I'm curious. JimP, when you tried the Judd-Voss offset, was it with or without a correction matrix?
That matches what I saw when trying Dschilic1 and RichB's HCFR correction matrices.
RAW and no matrix was totally different.

I'm also waiting to see what SillySally gets for his older LG OLED model (see last two pages in the lightspace thread).
So far my E6 seems to have the same perceptual charactatistics.
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post #1269 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
The CMS controls, all of them, work fine now. Please make sure you have the latest firmware installed from LGs website.

Use the CMS controls with the color gamut set to Extended not Normal.
Seems like there's some confusion. Are you talking about the 2016s or 2017s?
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post #1270 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Extended? I always read "Normal for SDR", you sure?.
Im very sure
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post #1271 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Seems like there's some confusion. Are you talking about the 2016s or 2017s?
Both. Weird things happen with Normal on the '16s and the color sweeps have lower dEs when using Extended in the '17s.
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post #1272 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
I tried cms again on c6 with extended but they still cause big problems.
U.K. Set with latest FW
What problems do they cause in EU sets?
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post #1273 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
This is why I chose to not purchase a spectro. Without a reference, you're no better off because you wouldn't know if your spectra is accurate.
In other threads I've seen some discussion on how well or not a spectral correction deals with wide gamut and how they correlate to our perception. Discussion usually ends with users uncertain unless they have super high end gear and equally high end references, and only a few enthusiasts are willing and capable of going that far.

Perhaps we could extrapolate some kind of answer by comparing differences in correction matrices?
A proposal for you pro-calibrators:
Head-fi has a headphone tour where the well known and trustworthy community members (reviewers and select enthusiasts) will send gear around from person to person to get reviewed and tested.
Perhaps AVS could do something like this with meters?
I propose this for the pros, since some of them seem to meet up every now and then.
10k meters Vs 1-3k headphones is a huge price difference though and I would totally understand why no one would want to ship a meter to someone...


That aside, I'm curious. JimP, when you tried the Judd-Voss offset, was it with or without a correction matrix?
That matches what I saw when trying Dschilic1 and RichB's HCFR correction matrices.
RAW and no matrix was totally different.

I'm also waiting to see what SillySally gets for his older LG OLED model (see last two pages in the lightspace thread).
So far my E6 seems to have the same perceptual charactatistics.
I've also been doing work with offsets for LG OLEDs. The '16 LGs are difficult because of how the grayscale tracks in reference to APL. The '17 LGs are a piece of cake because they track very, very well in regards to APL up to about 50fL. I will be contributing my offsets derived from my PR-670 once I'm confident others can use them.
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post #1274 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Both. Weird things happen with Normal on the '16s and the color sweeps have lower dEs when using Extended in the '17s.
Not that it really matters anymore but didn't it come out a few months ago that the 2016s had a LUTs? I'm wondering if it was in "Normal" and that's why adjustments were so limited. It didn't have enough measurement/conversion points.

Any thoughts?
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post #1275 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Not that it really matters anymore but didn't it come out a few months ago that the 2016s had a LUTs? I'm wondering if it was in "Normal" and that's why adjustments were so limited. It didn't have enough measurement/conversion points.

Any thoughts?
LUTs are not new to consumer TVs. Normal simply was not engineered properly.
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post #1276 of 2010 Old 04-01-2017, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
I tried cms again on c6 with extended but they still cause big problems.
U.K. Set with latest FW
What problems do they cause in EU sets?
Micro blocking , very visible to the eye with only 2 clicks on luminance.
I used 30 for photo only as to make the effect more visible
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post #1277 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MarcusSwe View Post
Just to get a rough estimate and try for myself, what are the "attributes" of these two corrections? I.e. if you measure them afterwards without corrections, how do the R/G/B-values line up? (For example, 100% R, 100% G, 110% B etc.) I can't use any file corrections a.t.m. and have to rely on under/over-adjusting R/G/B.
I think it's worth trying a Judd-Voss white point (x0.3067,y0.3180). How blue or not this becomes depends on your meter.
So naturally my results may be different than yours. Different panels are different, different meters are different, and our different viewing angle and height, etc also need to be taken into consideration for perceptual matching. That's alot of things to consider, but wait there's more!
The type of polarization/filter or whatever of the display's glass is really important, as this will tint parts of the screen and there's nothing you can do about it except give yourself time to adjust to it. This is very important to understand for perceptual matching as the best options, IMO, you will have to counterbalance this in your head or use a very small window and get closer and centered vertically+horizontally on that pattern (a few inches outside this sweet spot is when tinting can be obvious).

You can toss up a full screen field, like say 70%, and then move around and pay attention to areas close but not at edges of the screen. You can see how it changes between tints of red, green and blue.

If you want, you can factor this into your judgement, so you could go for something that looks more blue when perfectly aligned with the center of the screen if that spot looked red at your primary viewing position.

I don't think comparing the RGB balance to a single setting to be a good metric for comparison (which is what harlekin did). I did this originally, and instantly dismissed non-refresh with a judd-voss derrived white point, yet in practice I found this to not be the case. As such, I didn't compare their relative differences to a single configuration like harlekin. I also had slightly different results than he did (dschilic1's matrix and the denon+B6 were less similar to each other).



I spent the most time with SillySally's CCSS (EF9500), so that's what I've been comparing things to.
First description is mostly relative to at 100% white, but additional descriptors are mostly for 30% and 75% after giving myself time to adjust to the new color temperature (Watched Young Frankenstein, Tetsuo and/or Eraserhead every time as I'm very familiar with them).

Non-refresh: Too cool (blueish), slightly sickly (greenish)
Denon-B6: Cooler but not as cool as Non-refresh, more sickly
SillySally CCSS: This had similar red and green to Non-refresh, but needed much less blue. Sickly once I adjusted
Non-Refresh + dschilic1: Slightly cooler and slightly sickly
Non-Refresh + RichB: Almost the same as dschilic1, but slightly magenta at 30% (hard to describe)
10k CCSS: This was the first one I tried and I didn't like it at all. It was enough that I didn't check it again though (was sickly then magentaish or vice versa).
Denon-B6 + matrices: Obviously too cool and magentaish.
SillySally+matrices: Obviously sickly, slightly magentaish.


Non-refresh + Judd-Voss: My current choice. This is actually warmer than straight up non-refresh for some reason. White point addressed sickly tints. My ColorMunki Display must really like this combination.
Denon-B6 + Judd-Voss: Nope. Cold!
SillySally CCSS + Judd-Voss: Not that bad at 100% but the rest was slightly sickly-yellow.
Non-Refresh + RichB/dschilic1 + Judd-Voss: NOPE. Cold and purplish
10k CCSS + Judd-Voss: Didn't bother to try.
Denon-B6 + matrices + Judd-Voss: Same as before, but more obvious
SillySally+matrices + Judd-Voss: My second choice. A hair less warm than Non-refresh + Judd-Voss.

Again, your results may be different with your meter, and I hope this helps you in some way. I wonder what kind of results you will get.

Also, dschilic1's correction is strange. I set each set to 120 nits, but when using his what should be ~120 nits is now ~92 nits. Perhaps my meter really hates his, or this is a great example of display/meter variances.
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post #1278 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
I've also been doing work with offsets for LG OLEDs. The '16 LGs are difficult because of how the grayscale tracks in reference to APL. The '17 LGs are a piece of cake because they track very, very well in regards to APL up to about 50fL. I will be contributing my offsets derived from my PR-670 once I'm confident others can use them.
I wonder if Contrast is still going to be the primary control point for ABL. On my E6 I can effectively eliminate ABL up to 120 nits (35tf Lamberts?) by lowering contrast and increasing OLED light for luminance.

If this is the case, then LG needs to move to a new design architecture because this is just terrible behavior. I suspect many problems would be addressed if this was fixed at a hardware level (near black quality, time to retention, drifting, gamut+CMS linearity).
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post #1279 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
The CMS controls, all of them, work fine now. Please make sure you have the latest firmware installed from LGs website.

Use the CMS controls with the color gamut set to Extended not Normal.
Nothing new since January (still at 04.30.95) for US E6.
Red cannot be touched without making artifacts apparent. Applies to all gamut options.

I've not played with the gamut options in depth yet, but I was leaning towards Extended being the best option, as normal and wide were identical except for colors near the edge of the gamut which is the only difference between the two, while Extended was a slight boost overall. I was leaning towards it and adjusting Color to dial things manually for content not compatible with an eeColor box.
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post #1280 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
Nothing new since January (still at 04.30.95) for US E6.
...snip....
Thought I'd check to see if that was the most recent firmware and found what may be 04.31.15 showing a date of 03/31/2017 here http://www.lg.com/us/support-product...D65B6P#manuals.

Might want to install it and see if you're getting the same errors with luminance adjustments.
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post #1281 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Kamikaze_Ice View Post
I think it's worth trying a Judd-Voss white point (x0.3067,y0.3180). How blue or not this becomes depends on your meter.
So naturally my results may be different than yours. Different panels are different, different meters are different, and our different viewing angle and height, etc also need to be taken into consideration for perceptual matching. That's alot of things to consider, but wait there's more!
The type of polarization/filter or whatever of the display's glass is really important, as this will tint parts of the screen and there's nothing you can do about it except give yourself time to adjust to it. This is very important to understand for perceptual matching as the best options, IMO, you will have to counterbalance this in your head or use a very small window and get closer and centered vertically+horizontally on that pattern (a few inches outside this sweet spot is when tinting can be obvious).

You can toss up a full screen field, like say 70%, and then move around and pay attention to areas close but not at edges of the screen. You can see how it changes between tints of red, green and blue.

If you want, you can factor this into your judgement, so you could go for something that looks more blue when perfectly aligned with the center of the screen if that spot looked red at your primary viewing position.

I don't think comparing the RGB balance to a single setting to be a good metric for comparison (which is what harlekin did). I did this originally, and instantly dismissed non-refresh with a judd-voss derrived white point, yet in practice I found this to not be the case. As such, I didn't compare their relative differences to a single configuration like harlekin. I also had slightly different results than he did (dschilic1's matrix and the denon+B6 were less similar to each other).



I spent the most time with SillySally's CCSS (EF9500), so that's what I've been comparing things to.
First description is mostly relative to at 100% white, but additional descriptors are mostly for 30% and 75% after giving myself time to adjust to the new color temperature (Watched Young Frankenstein, Tetsuo and/or Eraserhead every time as I'm very familiar with them).

Non-refresh: Too cool (blueish), slightly sickly (greenish)
Denon-B6: Cooler but not as cool as Non-refresh, more sickly
SillySally CCSS: This had similar red and green to Non-refresh, but needed much less blue. Sickly once I adjusted
Non-Refresh + dschilic1: Slightly cooler and slightly sickly
Non-Refresh + RichB: Almost the same as dschilic1, but slightly magenta at 30% (hard to describe)
10k CCSS: This was the first one I tried and I didn't like it at all. It was enough that I didn't check it again though (was sickly then magentaish or vice versa).
Denon-B6 + matrices: Obviously too cool and magentaish.
SillySally+matrices: Obviously sickly, slightly magentaish.


Non-refresh + Judd-Voss: My current choice. This is actually warmer than straight up non-refresh for some reason. White point addressed sickly tints. My ColorMunki Display must really like this combination.
Denon-B6 + Judd-Voss: Nope. Cold!
SillySally CCSS + Judd-Voss: Not that bad at 100% but the rest was slightly sickly-yellow.
Non-Refresh + RichB/dschilic1 + Judd-Voss: NOPE. Cold and purplish
10k CCSS + Judd-Voss: Didn't bother to try.
Denon-B6 + matrices + Judd-Voss: Same as before, but more obvious
SillySally+matrices + Judd-Voss: My second choice. A hair less warm than Non-refresh + Judd-Voss.

Again, your results may be different with your meter, and I hope this helps you in some way. I wonder what kind of results you will get.

Also, dschilic1's correction is strange. I set each set to 120 nits, but when using his what should be ~120 nits is now ~92 nits. Perhaps my meter really hates his, or this is a great example of display/meter variances.
I guess I'm going to start using HCFR then. Is there a guide to using the correction files - or is it just an easy process? Also, could you post a link to the these files? Sorry if I'm asking lazy questions, there's just so many pages to go through
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post #1282 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 04:21 AM
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I bought a LG B6 OLED TV about a week ago and since watching content I have noticed a green/pink tint to light coloured and static grey images, after searching around I've found that I can use a i1 display pro meter and HCFR software with the help of Greyscale and colour calibration for dummies (old guide).

I'm completely new to this and finding it a steep learning curve but I wondered if there was any settings I definitely need to change in HCFR as the guide I'm following is from 2008.
Also, I dont have any test pattern discs or a blur-ray disc burner to create one at the moment. Could I use the test patterns from AVS HD 709 as media files and play them using my TV's built in media player or PS4? to start with or would something else be better to use?

Any other advice would be amazing

Thanks

Last edited by sunvsmoon; 04-02-2017 at 09:47 AM.
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post #1283 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunvsmoon View Post
I bought a LG B6 OLED TV about a week ago and since watching content I have noticed a green/pink tint to light coloured and static grey images, after searching around I've found that I can use a i1 display pro meter and HCFR software with the help of Greyscale and colour calibration for dummies (old guide) to roughly talk my through the process.

I'm completely new to this and finding it a steep learning curve but I wondered if there was any settings I definitely need to change in HCFR as the guide I'm following is from 2008.
Also, I dont have any test pattern discs or a blur-ray disc burner to create one at the moment. Could I use the test patterns from AVS HD 709 as media files and play them using my TV's built in media player or PS4? to start with or would something else be better to use?

Any other advice would be amazing

Thanks
Some oled screens can have a tint which cannot be calibrated out , is it even across the screen or just in one area ? Check using a full white screen.
I would not recommend using the TVs USB file player as is not very accurate, use a blu ray player if possible, most play USB files .
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post #1284 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 06:34 AM
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In default mode my OLED B6 offers these results.

1. Reducing light oled to 80 for 540 nits as LG recommends (average dE 1'5)



2. with default values light oled and contrast 100/100 (average dE 2'5








If I intend to correct white dot and ST 2084 using the 20-point controls provided by LG. This happens:

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post #1285 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 06:57 AM
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I brought chromapure 2 years ago and have used it many times ,I would now like to have a go at calibrating HDR on my C6 .
I don't see an option Within chromapure for this , do I need a newer version or an add on ?
Could there be an updated version for free ?
I have HDR test patterns already
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post #1286 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
I brought chromapure 2 years ago and have used it many times ,I would now like to have a go at calibrating HDR on my C6 .
I don't see an option Within chromapure for this , do I need a newer version or an add on ?
Could there be an updated version for free ?
I have HDR test patterns already
Shouldn't you be asking this on the chromapure thread?
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post #1287 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
I brought chromapure 2 years ago and have used it many times ,I would now like to have a go at calibrating HDR on my C6 .
I don't see an option Within chromapure for this , do I need a newer version or an add on ?
Could there be an updated version for free ?
I have HDR test patterns already
Shouldn't you be asking this on the chromapure thread?
if the only answer is chromapure then maybe but there maybe other options of software for free maybe ?
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post #1288 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
Micro blocking , very visible to the eye with only 2 clicks on luminance.
I used 30 for photo only as to make the effect more visible
Sorry, don't have those issues here.
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post #1289 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 07:53 AM
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I wonder if Contrast is still going to be the primary control point for ABL. On my E6 I can effectively eliminate ABL up to 120 nits (35tf Lamberts?) by lowering contrast and increasing OLED light for luminance.

If this is the case, then LG needs to move to a new design architecture because this is just terrible behavior. I suspect many problems would be addressed if this was fixed at a hardware level (near black quality, time to retention, drifting, gamut+CMS linearity).
I do not recommend using the contrast to set luminance on the '16s. Too many issues crop up. I've found it is best to leave constraint between 70 and 88, preferably at 85, and set luminance with the OLED light.
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post #1290 of 2010 Old 04-02-2017, 08:11 AM
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It is impossible to try to calibrate the D65 point on 668 for HDR, the DE keeps going up or down, it's not stable in any way.... how we're supposed to calibrate D65 like this?

EDIT: No, i'm starting to think that my meter is what's wrong, because the luminance on HDR moves all over the place, never stays the same (this on 5%), this with ASBL deactivated

looks like i've buyed Chromapure 3 and the meter for nothing... because nothing works as intended

Last edited by 256k; 04-02-2017 at 08:37 AM.
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