***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 59 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1741 of 2009 Old 06-28-2017, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Overrid3 View Post
People have said that the blue filter method doesn't work on these OLEDs. You could probably use the CMS controls, but that's not advisable, either, from what I've read. Supposedly, the CMS system is broken. I just left my color set to 50 since I'd probably make things worse by messing with it. FWIW, I think the calibrator Chad B. wrote somewhere that he's set color to 48 and tint to +2 Green.
Really? I can definitely get the boxes underneath the color bars to be darker or lighter than needed. Eyeing it so it matches up perfectly is kinda hard, but I generally got the blue bars to looking close to all blue.
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post #1742 of 2009 Old 06-29-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Really? I can definitely get the boxes underneath the color bars to be darker or lighter than needed. Eyeing it so it matches up perfectly is kinda hard, but I generally got the blue bars to looking close to all blue.
Just one of the posts I've read:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post50932001

Maybe others will chime in, but I remember seeing this question pop up a few times.
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post #1743 of 2009 Old 06-29-2017, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Any tips for color calibrations?

I used a calibration test video & it had the standard white, yellow, cyan, green, magenta, red & blue color strips with small little boxes underneath those color strips.
For anyone interested there is internal RGB filters under PICTURE -> ADVANCED CONTROLS-> COLOR FILTER. I`d use only COLOR for adjusting. As said before it may not be an accurate method.

With meter my settings for best skintones are Color 48 and G2 for tint (SDR).

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post #1744 of 2009 Old 06-30-2017, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Notes for your calibrator....

Set the 2pt Low controls as follows:

R: 0
G: -12
B: 0

For the 2pt High control subtract RGB from the grayscale, not add.

Once your calibrator has done the above, use the 20 point controls to adjust the grayscale. They can add RGB to the grayscale with the 20 point controls if they like.
Wondering if I should try these, too? When I cal'd mine, I used 2-pt high to dial in 100%, but I think I did add some clicks. Why is adding to to 2-high bad? On my current setup, I didn't touch 2-low at all. I found that raising R/G caused the dreaded black glow. Instead, I took a lot of green out using 20-pt. I guess if I try your 2-low setting, I wouldn't have to subtract as much green with the 20-pt, so I'd be in a better position right off the bat.
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post #1745 of 2009 Old 06-30-2017, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Here are the adjustments and measurements from my last calibration with Calman.
Calman - Meter Correction Display 3Pro
Normal Display Type: RAW XYZ
2.2
i X Y Z
X 0 1.07932876 -0.01101291 -0.02031638
2.35 Y 0 0.02521227 1.02062351 -0.00496593
0.005 Z 0 0.00139913 0.00600453 0.99184619

I1 D3 Pro
I1 Pro2

Luminance Red Green Blue IRE N. Red N.Green N.Red
7 2 2 7 2 2
-12 11 0 -12 11 0
0 0 0 0 5% 0 0 0
-7 -2 -8 0 10% -2 -8 0
-8 -1 -7 4 15% -1 -7 4
-11 0 -9 3 20% 0 -9 3
-12 1 -10 3 25% 1 -10 3
-13 -2 -12 5 30% -2 -12 5
-17 1 -9 6 35% 1 -9 6
-12 1 -10 5 40% 1 -10 5
-15 5 -7 10 45% 5 -7 10
-12 0 -11 5 50% 0 -11 5
-9 0 -9 7 55% 0 -9 7
-11 3 -9 7 60% 3 -9 7
-17 5 -5 9 65% 5 -5 9
-8 -3 -13 -2 70% -3 -13 -2
-8 -1 -12 1 75% -1 -12 1
0 -7 -15 -7 80% -7 -15 -7
1 -11 -20 -13 85% -11 -20 -13
5 -14 -25 -15 90% -14 -25 -15
4 -11 -20 -10 95% -11 -20 -10
0 0 0 0 100% 0 0 0

I used the Luminance controls to save time. The right set of numbers are computed with 0 luminance. I will try the 0 luminance settings on another input and see how they match.
I have read some posts recommending against using the Luminance controls, but the math is so simple, I cannot imagine they are not equivalent.

- Rich
I'm giving this a try now with your matrix correction. I've tried nonrefresh, but it's too red. I'll let ya know how it goes.
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post #1746 of 2009 Old 07-01-2017, 12:16 PM
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I'll have to watch some more, but my cal using the correction above looks good so far. Thanks, Rich! I previously tried using nonrefresh mode on my i1D3, and also another matrix correction I found online (which seemed a little better than no correction). However, both of those seemed to have too much red and not enough blue. Before re-doing my cal, I was watching a movie on Amazon, and compared the OLED to a calibrated laptop screen I have. The color was a lot more washed out on the laptop, which is probably to be expected, but skintones looked better. The OLED was too red by comparison.

This matrix correction seems more legit. I mean, these OLEDs are supposed to be pretty accurate OOTB, are they not? Using nonrefresh mode had me adding a decent amount of red and taking away a lot of blue. This new cal had me tweaking R and B in a few places, but only by a few clicks. The one thing most of these correction files seem to get right is green. There's always an abundance of green. This new cal just makes sense to me. All the major changes were done to green, with just a bit of R and B. I'll post my numbers a little later.
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post #1747 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 12:53 AM
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Can I use the above matrix with HCFR?
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post #1748 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Any tips for color calibrations?

I used a calibration test video & it had the standard white, yellow, cyan, green, magenta, red & blue color strips with small little boxes underneath those color strips.

The instructions say that you are supposed to use a blue color filter (which I have) so that the small boxes match up to the color of the color strips.
The thing is the white, cyan, magenta & blue all show up as blue when using the strip & are easy to calibrate. But the other colors are a dark black-ish color when viewed with the filter. It seems impossible to match them as they are too dark to see. How am I supposed to calibrate them?

On my B6, I basically lowered the luminance of the blue/cyan/magenta a few ticks down so the bars look as close to one solid color.
Saturation & tint didn't seem to make as much changes as luminance did.
Hi, for CMS calibration you need software/meter, can't do it by looking any reference pattern or any special mode or any filter.

Using any blue filter is a waste of time, CMS Calibration is not possible by only looking build in filters or by any type of $1 filter that is coming with disks or by photographic use quality and more expensive ones (Rosco E-Colour Tokyo Blue #071 or Lee Sheet Colour Filter #071 Tokyo or Kodak Deep Blue Tricolor #47B).

Blue Filter Glasses are useless for displays other than CRT.

Blue filters used before 10-15 years mainly for CRT Displays where only Color/Tint controls were available for CMS; the calibration software/meter access were so limited and so expensive.....now in 2017 you can get an amazing for the performance colorimeter like X-Rite's i1Display PRO and by using an open source software for free (like HCFR or LightSpace DPS), there is no reason to use any blue filter anymore.

Now most of the displays are coming with 6-Axis CMS controls.

Blue filters (on CRT) can work where for example the Red Primary is fully saturated and have no blue or green...blue primary has no green or red etc....But a fully saturated Primary needs to have the other 2 primaries added to be able to de-saturated it to it's target....so viewing thru the blue filter you will have light coming from all three primaries and this will make it's blue filter purpose of matching the luminance method no longer work.

When you have meter/software and have performed a color gamut calibration will full CMS internal controls or via external way using a 3D LUT Box like eeColor, look throu the blue filter....you will see that it will look so bad; so a very wide native gamut coverage display it will look very off when you target for REC.709 and look throu bars because the more de-saturation will be needed to the colors to match REC.709. Blue filters designed to work for display that their primaries are tracking REC.709, now all modern displays have wider gamut coverage from REC.709, this is another one reason that Blue Filter is not worth it to use nowadays.
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post #1749 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Overrid3 View Post
Just one of the posts I've read:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post50932001

Maybe others will chime in, but I remember seeing this question pop up a few times.
Hi, see what the developer of that calibration disk say about that: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...l#post25734729

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
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post #1750 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobbydazler View Post
Can I use the above matrix with HCFR?
Yep. You have to put the numbers in manually and then save it, but I already did that here (see attachment). I think I like it so far. I watched War Dogs last night, and it mostly looked good. Skin tones don't look quite right, but I'm wondering if that's due to saturation. I think the tone is good, but sometimes people looked overly tan. Maybe it was just the movie?

Question for everyone: are you leaving color at 50 or did you lower it. I saw a couple times that color 48 and tint G2 was recommended. Does changing color/tint affect grayscale? I played with them while I had gray patterns up, but they didn't seem to affect them.

Here's where I ended up:
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post #1751 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 03:06 PM
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I tried putting them Into the sensor matrix but something must have been wrong because I didn't get any red readings on a greyscale sweep.
Wow you're only using 129 nits I calibrated to 250/270- OLED 65/70 and love the colours and pop you get at that brightness on these OLEDs. I used to use 170 OLED 45 but that just seemed dull.
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post #1752 of 2009 Old 07-02-2017, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobbydazler View Post
I tried putting them Into the sensor matrix but something must have been wrong because I didn't get any red readings on a greyscale sweep.
Wow you're only using 129 nits I calibrated to 250/270- OLED 65/70 and love the colours and pop you get at that brightness on these OLEDs. I used to use 170 OLED 45 but that just seemed dull.
If you're using HCFR, you can just unzip that file and put it in:
C:\Program Files (x86)\HCFR Calibration\Etalon_Argyll

I have mine calibrated to a lower light level since I usually watch TV in a dim room and movies with all the lights off.
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post #1753 of 2009 Old 07-03-2017, 03:22 AM
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Can't find the zip file in your post only the image of your settings, maybe it's because I'm on my phone. I'll try the PC later.
Have you tried the correction files from the displaycal website?
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post #1754 of 2009 Old 07-03-2017, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobbydazler View Post
Can't find the zip file in your post only the image of your settings, maybe it's because I'm on my phone. I'll try the PC later.
Have you tried the correction files from the displaycal website?
Could be because of the phone? I can repost it if you still can't see it.

Yep, I tried a few off the Displaycal site. Here's the ccmx file for the latest one I found. It seemed pretty decent. Anyway, I ended up going back to my no correction, nonrefresh cal. Maybe it's because I'm more used to that one, but I think it looks best out of the different ones I've tried.
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post #1755 of 2009 Old 07-03-2017, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobbydazler View Post
Can't find the zip file in your post only the image of your settings, maybe it's because I'm on my phone. I'll try the PC later.
Have you tried the correction files from the displaycal website?
Try post #1691 for the zip file...
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post #1756 of 2009 Old 07-03-2017, 11:10 PM
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Thanks just switched to desktop site and there it is. Will pop it in and compare it to the other corrections. Using the latest from displaycal at the moment, the C7 ccmx it measures a big low in blue and red.
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post #1757 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 03:34 AM
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Jesus christ, holy mother of god... I dont know if this is a thing of the 704 build from E6 TV (i've chaged to a E6), but...

1º- My TV the blacks were wrong, on a complete dark room, there was always black glow, it was my TV's fault as i knew later thanks to a user from here, so i did as he said, changed Sub Brightness to 126 from 128, it fixed the glowing black issue

2º- On White Balance on 127 by just putting 1/1/1 i have a perfect grayscale with almost no tint , that little tint can't be fixed because touching anything more than 0/0/0 1/1/1 leads to tint, it's like my TV needs to be at the same number for 127, if not it gets tinted... But here come's the strangest thing...

3º- On Black Clipping test from @mascior , after set the 127 to 1/1/1 and the sub-brightness to 126... I can see THE ENTIRE DEEP GRAYSCALE, EVERYTHING, and with perfect black (not like happened before that i had to lower the brightness by 1 loosing a few bars because the black was raised, as explained before because the 128), now the reference black is black, the 0.5 it's almost invisible, even at pure darkness i had to focus to see that there was a bit of brightness of a bar, but the amazing is to see that i can see from 0.5 to 5 without lose any detail with the brightness 50 !!

4º- On color clipping test... My white goes up to 90% (4000nits), my yellow too, Green at 1000, the cyan goes up to 82%, red clips at 600/700aprox, magenta clips at 900, blue clips at 800/900, HOW the hell my TV is able to decode that much colour clipping? of course my TV will have only 700real nits, but looks like the tone mapping is ... way better?,asked to other people and they say that their tv's cant show that much color on the clipping scale... to add something, i was able to see that much BEFORE touching anything on the TV, tested a few movies and i was so impressed to see how much detail i was losing, the bad thing is that i've noticed that on dark colour clipping test, the yellow has tint on the last 2 squares, like they're a bit red, but since it cant be fixed with CMS... i'll have to see it like that, i put the colour tint to G2 and it fixed it a bit

5º- I'll try to calibrate the rest of the grayscale later, maybe since i've corrected the brightness i'll be able to calibrate the rest of the grayscale but i have no hopes, maybe the colour clipping and the black clipping is because the 704 panels are better than the old one?

I'll let you know if i was able to calibrate the rest of the grayscale with no tint or if i had to leave it untouched for the rest of the codes
@ConnecTEDDD it is normal that i can see that much color detail?
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post #1758 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 04:31 AM
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Jesus christ, holy mother of god... I dont know if this is a thing of the 704 build from E6 TV (i've chaged to a E6), but...

1º- My TV the blacks were wrong, on a complete dark room, there was always black glow, it was my TV's fault as i knew later thanks to a user from here, so i did as he said, changed Sub Brightness to 126 from 128, it fixed the glowing black issue

2º- On White Balance on 127 by just putting 1/1/1 i have a perfect grayscale with almost no tint , that little tint can't be fixed because touching anything more than 0/0/0 1/1/1 leads to tint, it's like my TV needs to be at the same number for 127, if not it gets tinted... But here come's the strangest thing...

3º- On Black Clipping test from @mascior , after set the 127 to 1/1/1 and the sub-brightness to 126... I can see THE ENTIRE DEEP GRAYSCALE, EVERYTHING, and with perfect black (not like happened before that i had to lower the brightness by 1 loosing a few bars because the black was raised, as explained before because the 128), now the reference black is black, the 0.5 it's almost invisible, even at pure darkness i had to focus to see that there was a bit of brightness of a bar, but the amazing is to see that i can see from 0.5 to 5 without lose any detail with the brightness 50 !!

4º- On color clipping test... My white goes up to 90% (4000nits), my yellow too, Green at 1000, the cyan goes up to 82%, red clips at 600/700aprox, magenta clips at 900, blue clips at 800/900, HOW the hell my TV is able to decode that much colour clipping? of course my TV will have only 700real nits, but looks like the tone mapping is ... way better?,asked to other people and they say that their tv's cant show that much color on the clipping scale... to add something, i was able to see that much BEFORE touching anything on the TV, tested a few movies and i was so impressed to see how much detail i was losing, the bad thing is that i've noticed that on dark colour clipping test, the yellow has tint on the last 2 squares, like they're a bit red, but since it cant be fixed with CMS... i'll have to see it like that, i put the colour tint to G2 and it fixed it a bit

5º- I'll try to calibrate the rest of the grayscale later, maybe since i've corrected the brightness i'll be able to calibrate the rest of the grayscale but i have no hopes, maybe the colour clipping and the black clipping is because the 704 panels are better than the old one?

I'll let you know if i was able to calibrate the rest of the grayscale with no tint or if i had to leave it untouched for the rest of the codes
@ConnecTEDDD it is normal that i can see that much color detail?
2) 127 should no be adjusted, it affects a lot the colors also, leave it at 0.0.0

3) Generally Contrast and Brightness (and OLED Light) adjustments should be locked to not able to adjust them, one day in the future probably TV manufacturers will do this (I hope so), I'm taking for HDR mode only, they are affecting the internal display mapping so always you have to use only the default settings for the controls in HDR mode.

HDR Contrast/Brightness patterns are useful only for validating/testing various metadata parameters (like different Mastering Display Max Luminance...1000,1100,4000 nits etc/) settings and not used to do any adjustments for HDR.

The ideal display has to clip to the luminance range it's can't display, this exactly is happening with post production HDR displays, so they follow until to the levels it can display and not adjust their response according to the metadata.

Now with the so high roll-off consumer displays are using, they sacrifice to accurately tracking the PQ transfer functions...for example 700nits at 700nits content digital levels....now they display 700nits as 500 or 600...to be able to see more details at higher luminance levels (the display can't reproduce)...so when you are doing this you are moving away from the content mastering and the way the content supposed to look (from mastering), so you are moving away from calibration, since you increase the errors, so the movie globally will look darker for the user to be able to see 3-4 seconds of more details in clouds etc. Companies have to understand this and add an option to disable internal tone mapping (for the user to use 3D LUT for HDR if he want to...) which just will clip...without any roll-off, so if you need any roll-off; to create it using a 1D Input (Shaper) LUT and 3D LUT table.

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S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5

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post #1759 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
2) 127 should no be adjusted, it affects a lot the colors also, leave it at 0.0.0
Not adjust it means that i just simply hide and loss all that detail, i prefeer to see it with a few errors on the dark color part than loss it, the detail losed is INSANE, also when i measured the grayscale there was no much DE %, about 2,5%, i didnt asked about that, i asked if on anyone else E6 they can see those dark levels / high color clipping

You remember when i was on my B6 and i said "I cannot see the entire sun on FFXV", well, now i can, and its thank to that insanely high clipping level
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post #1760 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 04:47 AM
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Not adjust it means that i just simply hide and loss all that detail, i prefeer to see it with a few errors on the dark color part than loss it, the detail losed is INSANE, i didnt asked about that, i asked if on anyone else E6 they can see those dark levels / high color clipping

You remember when i was on my B6 and i said "I cannot see the entire sun on FFXV", well, now i can, and its thank to that insanely high clipping level
There is a huge difference of what is happening by looking only a pattern and what is happening with real content in HDR.

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post #1761 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 04:59 AM
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There is a huge difference of what is happening by looking only a pattern and what is happening with real content in HDR.
used The Da Vinci code UHD to see the darkest scenes, didnt saw anything weird
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post #1762 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 05:02 AM
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used The Da Vinci code UHD to see the darkest scenes, didnt saw anything weird
Out of curiosity did you use a grayscale ramp to confirm no tint is being introduced when changing 127?

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post #1763 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 05:08 AM
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Out of curiosity did you use a grayscale ramp to confirm no tint is being introduced when changing 127?

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Yes, that and the chromapure, if you dont use the grayscale ramp you cant see if there's tint or not, just like with the CMS, unless you use the special pattern you cannot see how ****ed the software of LG is

PS: @ConnecTEDDD 127 without 1/1/1 DE 38.83, with 1/1/1, 18,72, i think it's way better... will always have problems, but thats LG's fault, the rest of the HDR codes i didnt touched them, they just dont work properly

Last edited by 256k; 07-04-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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post #1764 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Yes, that and the chromapure, if you dont use the grayscale ramp you cant see if there's tint or not, just like with the CMS, unless you use the special pattern you cannot see how ****ed the software of LG is

PS: @ConnecTEDDD 127 without 1/1/1 DE 38.83, with 1/1/1, 18,72, i think it's way better... will always have problems, but thats LG's fault, the rest of the HDR codes i didnt touched them, they just dont work properly
It's not that they don't work, you have to find out how to make them work without introducing problems to real content beyond charts. For example this report below is from E6 HDR10 Calibration with no issues in real content:



Black Level 0.0004nits came from the notebook screen light leakage when CalMAN was runnig; because meter was working in non-contact mode.

If you try to make even better the charts, to get below 1dE average, the problems will start to appear in real content.
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post #1765 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 256k View Post
Yes, that and the chromapure, if you dont use the grayscale ramp you cant see if there's tint or not, just like with the CMS, unless you use the special pattern you cannot see how ****ed the software of LG is

PS: @ConnecTEDDD 127 without 1/1/1 DE 38.83, with 1/1/1, 18,72, i think it's way better... will always have problems, but thats LG's fault, the rest of the HDR codes i didnt touched them, they just dont work properly
It's not that they don't work, you have to find out how to make them work without introducing problems to real content beyond charts. For example this report below is from E6 HDR10 Calibration with no issues in real content:



Black Level 0.0004nits came from the notebook screen light leakage when CalMAN was runnig; because meter was working in non-contact mode.

If you try to make even better the charts, to get below 1dE average, the problems will start to appear in real content.
How on earth did you do that Tedd ?
Do you use the Service menu 2 pt WB ?
I have good results using sm 2 pt WB and
WB codes 254-419 ,other WB codes don't seem to work on my e6 .
One problem with using SM 2pt WB is the PQ is raised a little.

Last edited by pazman2000; 07-04-2017 at 10:55 AM.
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post #1766 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 11:04 AM
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Now with the so high roll-off consumer displays are using, they sacrifice to accurately tracking the PQ transfer functions...for example 700nits at 700nits content digital levels....now they display 700nits as 500 or 600...to be able to see more details at higher luminance levels (the display can't reproduce)...so when you are doing this you are moving away from the content mastering and the way the content supposed to look (from mastering), so you are moving away from calibration, since you increase the errors, so the movie globally will look darker for the user to be able to see 3-4 seconds of more details in clouds etc. Companies have to understand this and add an option to disable internal tone mapping (for the user to use 3D LUT for HDR if he want to...) which just will clip...without any roll-off, so if you need any roll-off; to create it using a 1D Input (Shaper) LUT and 3D LUT table.
The C7 Cinema modes use aggressive tone-mapping that begins below 100 nits. This is inaccurate and does not track EOTF. Patterns show this but not as much as real content. The C7 Standard mode has more accurate tone-mapping that retains near-black detail and mid-tone EOTF tracking. I recommend that folks with 2016 LG OLEDs make some changes to Standard modes (disable enhancements and set WH to W50) and then compare the image to Cinema mode to see what has been done to mid-tone. HDR 10 content has been neutered.

Only Cinema mode has white balance controls which means there is no mode accurate EOTF tracking for calibration. Yikes.
Please LG, add tone-mapping options for Cinema modes to track EOTF to at least 400 nits.

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post #1767 of 2009 Old 07-04-2017, 11:39 AM
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Pretty satisfied with SDR settings on my 55" E6 but for HDR I'm asking what I can do to get the best settings without proffessional calibration.
Currently I've settled with HDR standard at OLED 60, Contrast 100, Brightness 50, Color 55. Everything else is default/0/off.
Dejudder at 0 and Deblur at 10.
Colors look very good but brightness can be off depending on what I watch. Really wish there was a 50.5 setting. Why is there a brightness setting from 0-100 anyway when only 48-54 are any useful?
Anyway, is there anything else I can do to improve black levels? I have no issues with banding or vignetting that I can see so no need to hide any details.
Also, I disabled ABSL in service menu for what it's worth.
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post #1768 of 2009 Old 07-05-2017, 01:25 AM
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Can someone tell me how to get HDR WB codes to work ?
I can get 127-419 to work , above that no amount of adjustments makes any difference at all .
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post #1769 of 2009 Old 07-05-2017, 04:50 AM
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Thanks just switched to desktop site and there it is. Will pop it in and compare it to the other corrections. Using the latest from displaycal at the moment, the C7 ccmx it measures a big low in blue and red.
Cool. Let us know what you think. That matrix correction made things look a bit blue for my taste. I think using my i1D3 uncorrected may be just a little too red, but content usually looks pretty decent. I'll probably just stick with that.
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post #1770 of 2009 Old 07-06-2017, 03:04 AM
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How on earth did you do that Tedd ?
Do you use the Service menu 2 pt WB ?
I have good results using sm 2 pt WB and
WB codes 254-419 ,other WB codes don't seem to work on my e6 .
One problem with using SM 2pt WB is the PQ is raised a little.
I used only the 20-Point Controls of normal menu, using 21-Point Grayscale patterns is not ideal for these sets since the un-align of controls don't help to spot changes the adjustments you apply are providing, if you see I have used 28-Point Grayscale but 33-Point it will be better also.

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