***Official B/C/E/G6P OLED Calibration Thread - Page 67 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1981 of 2009 Old 09-04-2018, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
The target curve is the "Y Target" numbers in those charts? How are those generated? How do you adjust to them? What if you want 150 cd/m2?
I just took an old measurement and changed the zero black level for BT.1886 gamma curve in preferences. I don`t know if you can set max Y target to certain level in advance. HCFR calculates Y targets (=target curve) from measured max brightness, set/measured(?) black level and gamma.

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post #1982 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 06:27 AM
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Took my first run at setting greyscale and seems to have gone well. Zero black at .0034. I dialed in the 2 point high according to 100%, then the low according to 10%. I've read on here to adjust the low according to 5%, but the charts in HCFR don't seem to show anything below 10% (what am I missing here?). All two point adjustments were made only by lowering the R/B/G colors as needed. I then went in and touched up by raising and lowering the RBG in 20 point as needed. Does this sound right? My brightness was still good (pure black) after my greyscale adjustment.

TV gamma is set at 2.2 and was just about dead on across the board after my greyscale adjustments, but I want the gamma curve that starts at around 2.2 then slowly ramps up to 2.35 or so (not sure what that's called). Am I good now with making adjustments to the gamma by going through with the 20 point? Am I safe with raising it that much from 20% or so up to 100%? I'm thinking I should get the greyscale AND gamma at 2.35 dialed in at 100% with the 2 point high first.

And to verify, has it been determined that dialing in gamma by adjusting each RGB equally is preferable to using the luminance controls?

Somewhat confusing, but I'm having a good time (which perplexes my wife and kids)!

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post #1983 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
The target curve is the "Y Target" numbers in those charts? How are those generated? How do you adjust to them? What if you want 150 cd/m2?
Hi, all grayscale Y (luminance) targets will be calculated when the software will measure your black and 100% White patch. After these two measurements and according to your selected gamma target, all target Y per each grayscale step will be visible/calculated to the chart.

If you want 150 nits, adjust your backlight until your meter will read your 100% White patch with 150 nits luminance.
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post #1984 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Took my first run at setting greyscale and seems to have gone well. Zero black at .0034. I dialed in the 2 point high according to 100%, then the low according to 10%. I've read on here to adjust the low according to 5%, but the charts in HCFR don't seem to show anything below 10% (what am I missing here?).
Go to HCFR -> 'Measures...' It will open a 'Measure parameters' window, change the number of grayscale from 10 to 20 there.

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post #1985 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 07:21 PM
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Thanks, @ConnecTEDDD !

I think I was able to dial in my grayscale (attached) pretty well using the 2 pt hi/lo for 100% and 5%, then 20 pt for everything in between, but then I got to the point to adjust gamma (also attached) and hit a wall; I just didn't know what to do. Gamma on TV is set to 2.2.

I thought I was supposed to raise/lower the RGB values equally in order to dial in the gamma, but it didn't seem to be working, and was throwing off my grayscale. I was avoiding luminance adjustments since large ticks on those was reported to have adverse effects.

I'm set for a power gamma of 2.35 and zero black of .0034 have the target gamma values as provided by Chad B on p.1, but I don't know how to adjust to those values. Also, how do i show the current gamma values for each point on a chart, or show the target line from 2.2 slowly moving up to 2.35 on a chart? The only way I know how to view gamma right now is the chart attached.

Sorry for the multiple questions, but I really did hit a dead end here.
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post #1986 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
I'm set for a power gamma of 2.35 and zero black of .0034 have the target gamma values as provided by Chad B on p.1, but I don't know how to adjust to those values. Also, how do i show the current gamma values for each point on a chart, or show the target line from 2.2 slowly moving up to 2.35 on a chart?
Set your gamma to BT.1886 and black level to 0.006 if you are targeting max 150 cd/m^2. That should give you a nice target curve.
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post #1987 of 2009 Old 09-05-2018, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Thanks, @ConnecTEDDD !

I think I was able to dial in my grayscale (attached) pretty well using the 2 pt hi/lo for 100% and 5%, then 20 pt for everything in between, but then I got to the point to adjust gamma (also attached) and hit a wall; I just didn't know what to do. Gamma on TV is set to 2.2.

I thought I was supposed to raise/lower the RGB values equally in order to dial in the gamma, but it didn't seem to be working, and was throwing off my grayscale. I was avoiding luminance adjustments since large ticks on those was reported to have adverse effects.

I'm set for a power gamma of 2.35 and zero black of .0034 have the target gamma values as provided by Chad B on p.1, but I don't know how to adjust to those values. Also, how do i show the current gamma values for each point on a chart, or show the target line from 2.2 slowly moving up to 2.35 on a chart? The only way I know how to view gamma right now is the chart attached.

Sorry for the multiple questions, but I really did hit a dead end here.

Your gamma looks pretty bright. I used luminance values to set gamma. I didn't notice any adverse effects, and it's way easier than messing with RGB simultaneously. To set a target curve in HCFR, I used BT.1886 and set black level to 0.005 (first screen shot). I started with gamma 2.2, and adjusted luminance on IRE 15 and up. I left IRE 5 and 10 set to zero because raising those just seemed to show near-black artifacts. So, my gamma isn't really BT1886 at the low end, but it approximates it as the IRE goes up. If you see the attachment, mine starts around 2.3 and gets closer to 2.4 at the high end.


I used an excel sheet to get the luminance values, and then I used luminance controls to set them in the TV. If I remember right, IRE 5 and 10 are set to 0, and I think I had to lower most of the other ones from there on up since gamma 2.2 is too bright out of the box. Hope some of this stuff helps.
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post #1988 of 2009 Old 09-06-2018, 03:24 AM
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Thanks, @ConnecTEDDD !

I think I was able to dial in my grayscale (attached) pretty well using the 2 pt hi/lo for 100% and 5%, then 20 pt for everything in between, but then I got to the point to adjust gamma (also attached) and hit a wall; I just didn't know what to do. Gamma on TV is set to 2.2.

I thought I was supposed to raise/lower the RGB values equally in order to dial in the gamma, but it didn't seem to be working, and was throwing off my grayscale. I was avoiding luminance adjustments since large ticks on those was reported to have adverse effects..
Have you enabled from HCFR Preferences to display to you the dE2000 with Luminance errors? ...so to help you fix the gamma errors when you perform RGB balance adjustments?

Before starting the multiply point grayscale adjustments, take a 21-Point Grayscale run measuring all display available gamma presets, then view the reports and choose to work to the one that you see that is closer to your target gamma (so you save time from less adjustments which will be required to fix the issues later).

Do the same test with colorspace preset (taking 4-Point Saturation sweeps....choose the one that has better tracking of REC.709) and do the same with Color Temp preset (taking 21-Point Grayscale....choose the one that has less RGB errors in average).
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post #1989 of 2009 Old 09-07-2018, 06:38 AM
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Thanks for all of the replies! With all of the help and some deep digging into some random threads, I think I'm grasping it a lot better now.

I plan on using the Chad B luminance settings here to set my gamma at the same time I (re)do grayscale:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post48407545

I'd prefer a 100% level of 150 cd/m2, but I don't know how to extrapolate down from Chad B.s numbers, nor how to graph or enter his target gamma numbers in HCFR, so I'll just give 170 a try for now.

I know for the 2pt high and low control at 100% and 5% to subtract RGB from the grayscale, not add, I'm just not sure how I'll get those colors to line up at my luminance/gamma targets by just subtracting, but maybe it will all just work out. I'm also of the understanding that once I set those, I shouldn't touch them again with the 20 pt controls, and shouldn't need to.

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post #1990 of 2009 Old 09-07-2018, 06:10 PM
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Quick question: How do I hit my target luminance at 5% low when I've dialed in grayscale there (by lowering green to -23, red and blue at zero), but my luminance reading is .152, target is .228. I'm pretty far off. I've read to only lower RGB in 2 point, so how do I safely raise it to hit my target? Gamma is set to 2.2 in TV.

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post #1991 of 2009 Old 09-10-2018, 04:47 PM
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Hi Matt. Regarding luminance and visual errors, its the luminance controls under each primary that I noticed would give you visual errors. For instance I've always said that touching the red luminance control even a little causes more harm than good in my experience. The greyscale luminance controls I didn't have any issues with.


Happy calibrating
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post #1992 of 2009 Old 09-11-2018, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Quick question: How do I hit my target luminance at 5% low when I've dialed in grayscale there (by lowering green to -23, red and blue at zero), but my luminance reading is .152, target is .228. I'm pretty far off. I've read to only lower RGB in 2 point, so how do I safely raise it to hit my target? Gamma is set to 2.2 in TV.

Thanks!!!
Hi, adjust (add values) equally to both RGB sliders to increase your luminance.

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post #1993 of 2009 Old 09-11-2018, 05:42 AM
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Hi, adjust (add values) equally to both RGB sliders to increase your luminance.
Thank you, @ConnecTEDDD ; very helpful as always. I was hesitant to do that since I've read to only lower green at 2 pt low, but there isn't really any other way to get where I needed other than the luminance adjustment.

Regardless, it looks like I need to start over again anyway since I just came across this post from you about the round down levels and the AVSHD disk:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post49652577

I really need to get my laptop set so I can avoid the AVS disk and just use the HCFR-generated patterns to save time. I played with it last night and think I have everything defaulted in the display settings. Hopefully that will get me an unaltered signal to the TV via HDMI.

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post #1994 of 2009 Old 09-11-2018, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Thank you, @ConnecTEDDD ; very helpful as always. I was hesitant to do that since I've read to only lower green at 2 pt low, but there isn't really any other way to get where I needed other than the luminance adjustment.

Regardless, it looks like I need to start over again anyway since I just came across this post from you about the round down levels and the AVSHD disk:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post49652577

I really need to get my laptop set so I can avoid the AVS disk and just use the HCFR-generated patterns to save time. I played with it last night and think I have everything defaulted in the display settings. Hopefully that will get me an unaltered signal to the TV via HDMI.
You can use your notebook output only if you have verified using a reference if you have agreement to black/white, RGB balance, Gamma and color gamut readings.

To check grayscale you can use the AVSHD as reference from a standalone player with YCbCr output, but to measure your Color Gamut for example with 4-Point Saturation sweep, AVSHD saturation patterns are not compatible with HCFR (and there no fix about this), for example:

AVSHD 50% Red Saturation Pattern has RGB Triplet 190.95.95 but HCFR's Color Engine needs/calculates errors from RGB Triplet 191.96.96, it's 0.42 dE2000 error.

AVSHD 75% Magenta Saturation Pattern has RGB Triplet 203.100.203 but HCFR's Color Engine needs/calculates errors from RGB Triplet 202.99.202, it's 0.36 dE2000 error.

Once you have made your test and find out and verified that your notebook settings can generate accurate patterns then you can use your notebook for patch generation.

But most of the people choose the untested and quick/easy way and they calibrate using unverified and inaccurate patterns.

See there: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post56467030
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post #1995 of 2009 Old 09-12-2018, 12:13 PM
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My third run went well, except now I have a faint, snowy glow on pure black. Brightness set at 51, but the glow is there regardless of how low I set the Brightness. At 52 there is noticeable increase in light. I calibrated gamma to 1886 with the TV set at 1886, with zero black at .0034.

The only thing I've found that eliminates the glow is to reduce 2 pt low blue, which is currently at +8.
Question:
1) Can I reduce all of the colors at 2 pt low to keep my grayscale, then increase luminance at 5% at 20 pt high to get back my gamma?

I also noticed that shadow detail wasn't the greatest. In a dark room if I flipped to gamma 2.2, there were certain scenes where I could see more shadow detail.
Questions:
1) Should I calibrate to a different gamma?
2) Set the TV to a different gamma?
3) Alter zero black?

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post #1996 of 2009 Old 09-12-2018, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
My third run went well, except now I have a faint, snowy glow on pure black. Brightness set at 51, but the glow is there regardless of how low I set the Brightness. At 52 there is noticeable increase in light. I calibrated gamma to 1886 with the TV set at 1886, with zero black at .0034.

The only thing I've found that eliminates the glow is to reduce 2 pt low blue, which is currently at +8.
Question:
1) Can I reduce all of the colors at 2 pt low to keep my grayscale, then increase luminance at 5% at 20 pt high to get back my gamma?

I also noticed that shadow detail wasn't the greatest. In a dark room if I flipped to gamma 2.2, there were certain scenes where I could see more shadow detail.
Questions:
1) Should I calibrate to a different gamma?
2) Set the TV to a different gamma?
3) Alter zero black?
1) Why don't you start from 2.2 preset? so it will require less adjustments probably to RGB-Low?

2) If you watch to light controlled room, 2.4 and 100 nits is your target.

3) Use real measurements, not virtual targets.

Generally because you see more detail to near black, to be sure if you watch the correct amount of detail, you have to measure your near black and see what is happening.

See the part of that post where it says about 6-Point Near Black measurement: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post56500718

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post #1997 of 2009 Old 09-12-2018, 09:33 PM
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Calibration Question

Hey everyone, sorry if this is totally the wrong place to post this but I had a question.

I have the c6 and about a year ago LG replaced the screen and the mainboard on it due to a failure. I wanted to get it calibrated and had an appointment set up for this morning. They called me today and the guy told me that if he calibrated it when I use HDR it would blow away the calibration settings so it was not worth calibrating my TV. My 7am brain believed him and we cancelled the appointment but now I am doubting him. Any truth? Is it worth to have it calibrated anyways?

Thanks everyone!

Matt
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post #1998 of 2009 Old 09-12-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew Gillette View Post
Hey everyone, sorry if this is totally the wrong place to post this but I had a question.

I have the c6 and about a year ago LG replaced the screen and the mainboard on it due to a failure. I wanted to get it calibrated and had an appointment set up for this morning. They called me today and the guy told me that if he calibrated it when I use HDR it would blow away the calibration settings so it was not worth calibrating my TV. My 7am brain believed him and we cancelled the appointment but now I am doubting him. Any truth? Is it worth to have it calibrated anyways?

Thanks everyone!

Matt
It wouldn't cause problems with HDR. I would get another person to do it. This guy either has no clue or doesn't really know what he is doing.

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post #1999 of 2009 Old 09-13-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
1) Why don't you start from 2.2 preset? so it will require less adjustments probably to RGB-Low?

2) If you watch to light controlled room, 2.4 and 100 nits is your target.

3) Use real measurements, not virtual targets.

Generally because you see more detail to near black, to be sure if you watch the correct amount of detail, you have to measure your near black and see what is happening.

See the part of that post where it says about 6-Point Near Black measurement: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post56500718
Once again, thank you @ConnecTEDDD for your generous advice.

1) I had similar large adjustments before from 2.2, but that was before I checked the AVSHD round down levels box, so I need to just throw out that experience and try it again.

2) Thanks!

3) Why does Chad B set an artificial zero black level on an OLED? What is the purpose?

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post #2000 of 2009 Old 09-13-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Once again, thank you @ConnecTEDDD for your generous advice.

1) I had similar large adjustments before from 2.2, but that was before I checked the AVSHD round down levels box, so I need to just throw out that experience and try it again.

2) Thanks!

3) Why does Chad B set an artificial zero black level on an OLED? What is the purpose?
3) To boost a bit the near black levels, 2016 models have a native; lets say 'not perfect near black', you have to live with that fact, when you try to fix that you will have glowing blacks.

So you use a virtual black, you trick the gamma calculation to give you boosted near black but the same time flat gamma (to the calibration report). When you will measure with that calibration but with measured near black, your gamma will not be flat but it will have a slope to near black (brighter).

Some like that fact since its boosting the near black, but specifications of REC.709 don't have to do with someone likes or not, it says 'currently', use 2.4 for gamma to all levels.

'Fake black' measurement should not be used for any kind of calibration.
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post #2001 of 2009 Old 09-21-2018, 06:11 AM
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I just wanted to say thanks again to all of those that chimed in with advice to help me get my E6 calibrated.

After the third attempt, I think I finally got the grayscale and gamma dialed in. I can barely see bar 18 flashing with brightness at 51, and the one movie scene where I specifically noticed crushed blacks before now looks great with just the right amount of shadow detail.

I'm basically at luminance -3 at every 20pt setting from 10IRE to 95 with RGB mostly negative as well, so that was a little concerning, but that's with TV gamma at 2.2 to get gamma lined up at the low end without raising my black level. I'll post my charts when I get a chance.

For now, I just have color set at 48 and tint at G3. When I get more time I'll dive into color correction, but for now those seem like the most common settings.

Thanks again!
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post #2002 of 2009 Old 09-21-2018, 10:10 AM
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Can someone recommend a reputable place to have my E6 calibrated? I live in Orlando, Fl. I thank ya kindly.

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post #2003 of 2009 Old 09-30-2018, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
I just wanted to say thanks again to all of those that chimed in with advice to help me get my E6 calibrated.

After the third attempt, I think I finally got the grayscale and gamma dialed in. I can barely see bar 18 flashing with brightness at 51, and the one movie scene where I specifically noticed crushed blacks before now looks great with just the right amount of shadow detail.

I'm basically at luminance -3 at every 20pt setting from 10IRE to 95 with RGB mostly negative as well, so that was a little concerning, but that's with TV gamma at 2.2 to get gamma lined up at the low end without raising my black level. I'll post my charts when I get a chance.

For now, I just have color set at 48 and tint at G3. When I get more time I'll dive into color correction, but for now those seem like the most common settings.

Thanks again!
Hi, next time you will calibrate, try no not use any 'Luminance' controls to increase or reduce your luminance levels, use RGB controls instead, you will have less 'digital look' picture with smoother gradation.

'Luminance' controls are adding some issues, see there an example: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post45436297

Generally its better idea to measure 2.2 and 2.4 available gamma selection and start working with the mode which will provide you closer tracking of your target gamma, so the job from your side will require to perform less adjustment (so less total time to finish your calibration) while having less adjustments of RGB balance settings will provide better picture, which is not something you can see it taking measurements and looking dE charts. LG internal processing is not so perfectly designed, so its better to apply less control adjustments if possible.

About your CMS adjustments, beyond charts, take a look a gradation pattern with CMS adjustment ON/OFF to verify that no issues are introduced by using these controls.

This is a popular pattern LG users are using: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post52261769

...and Vincent from HDTVtest.co.uk also (see 5:11):
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post #2004 of 2009 Old 10-01-2018, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, next time you will calibrate, try no not use any 'Luminance' controls to increase or reduce your luminance levels, use RGB controls instead, you will have less 'digital look' picture with smoother gradation.

'Luminance' controls are adding some issues, see there an example: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post45436297

Generally its better idea to measure 2.2 and 2.4 available gamma selection and start working with the mode which will provide you closer tracking of your target gamma, so the job from your side will require to perform less adjustment (so less total time to finish your calibration) while having less adjustments of RGB balance settings will provide better picture, which is not something you can see it taking measurements and looking dE charts. LG internal processing is not so perfectly designed, so its better to apply less control adjustments if possible.
I initially calibrated with the TV set at bt1886. It tracked better overall, except at the low end. After making necessary low end adjustments I ended up with a glow on pure black. With the TV now set at 2.2 (per your recommendation: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post56798830), the low end was more on track, but everything else was too bright, requiring the negative luminance adjustments throughout.

I thought I read somewhere that the luminance controls were fixed via a firmware update? Regardless, does a luminance adjustment of -3 equate to a -3 for each of R, G, and B? If so, then I can just go in and fix without recalibrating.

Right now, I'm not noticing anything funny (artifacts, oversaturation, etc.) if I switch back and forth between a calibrated and uncalibrated picture mode, just better color, grayscale, and depth (gamma) in the calibrated mode, as I'd expect/hope to see.

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post #2005 of 2009 Old 10-01-2018, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
I thought I read somewhere that the luminance controls were fixed via a firmware update? Regardless, does a luminance adjustment of -3 equate to a -3 for each of R, G, and B? If so, then I can just go in and fix without recalibrating.
There differences over firmware around the world (even with same version), there variations over manufactured revision electronics, to some areas it has less issues, to other areas more issues.

About reducing equally steps of all controls, it will require re-adjustments, because Green has more luminance from Red or Blue.

When you are looking the RGB Balance Chart of a calibration software and you see all (R/G/B) Channels Bars to be at exact 100% = 0 dE; doesn't mean that you have used equal percentage of luminance per each color channel.



The calibration software it's doing the normalizing internally according to the selected colorspace target options to give you better presentation for easier calibration.

D65 White Point for REC.709 (BD Movies) Color Space is using Red 21.27%, Green 71.52%, Blue 7.22% which gives 6504K.

REC.601 (PAL...EU DVD) D65: Red 22.20%, Green 70.67%, Blue 7.13% which gives 6504K.

REC.601 (NTSC... US DVD) D65: Red 21.24%, Green 70.11%, Blue 8.66% which gives 6504K.

REC.2020 (UltraHD Movies) D65: Red 26.27%, Green 67.80%, Blue 5.93% which gives 6504K.

All these colorspaces are using D65 as reference white point.

We use D65 (which has been created with specific mixture of RGB) which has 6504K because this is the white point the movies has been mastered (BD/UHD).

Each colorspace (REC.709 for BD / REC.2020 for UHD) while they have the same xy cordinates to create the D65, it's using different mixture of RGB colors channels, while all they report 6504K.

You can have 6504K temperature with different RGB channels mixture.

When you are using a meter/calibration software but you check only the Color Temperature Chart for the Grayscale, while the Color Temperature Graph can be perfect, the same time the RGB Balance Chart can be off.

This is happening because just a number 6504K is not the same as when we say D65 for a specific colorspace.

So when you are adjusting RGB balance controls, the Green channel adjustment is affecting more the luminance compared to the other 2 color channels, also when you reduce equally a specific point RGB sliders (-5 to all RGB sliders of 40% control for example), it can undo your RGB balance

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post #2006 of 2009 Old 10-02-2018, 06:41 PM
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There's more than one set of luminance controls, and some are broken (in the cms side) and some are not (in the grayscale side), at least when it comes to my NA OLED. Except for Red, even the broken ones can be used ever so slightly without a visible degradation in almost all real world content. You can get a slight bit more low level noise in the grayscale with the luminance controls technically (and I've only checked this on previous FWs), but its really only something you'd only be able to reproduce in very specific type of scene and you'd normally not notice it unless you very carefully were looking for it or trying to produce the effect on purpose.
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post #2007 of 2009 Old 12-03-2018, 09:03 AM
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Hello,

It's about 2 years since I have calibrated my OLED TV (using Apple TV 3) so I've decided to re-calibrate it with Apple TV 4K, MobileForge and my CalMAN Enthusiast 2016.

What workflow do you suggest (some custom one?)? I would like to calibrate brightness too. Should I use some external patterns or what do you prefer?

Currently I'm wondering why am I getting such bad Gamma curve in CalMAN Enthusiast Home Video Advanced workflow. Pre-calibration Gamma test says my TV has nearly perfect Gamma 2.4 (Using BT.1886) but the curve is all over the place. I have calibrated it with 2 and 20 white points but regardless of that the curve is horrible.


Expert Dark room:

Brightness is at 52
Contrast: 80
Oled light: 50
Colour: 50
Colour Gamut: Normal
All picture 'improvement' features are on OFF

Gamma curve reminds me a lot of this one:

.imgur.com/wZem7UV.png
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post #2008 of 2009 Old 12-07-2018, 12:36 AM
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Anyone?
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post #2009 of 2009 Old 12-19-2018, 09:07 AM
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Hello,

It's about 2 years since I have calibrated my OLED TV (using Apple TV 3) so I've decided to re-calibrate it with Apple TV 4K, MobileForge and my CalMAN Enthusiast 2016.

What workflow do you suggest (some custom one?)? I would like to calibrate brightness too. Should I use some external patterns or what do you prefer?

Currently I'm wondering why am I getting such bad Gamma curve in CalMAN Enthusiast Home Video Advanced workflow. Pre-calibration Gamma test says my TV has nearly perfect Gamma 2.4 (Using BT.1886) but the curve is all over the place. I have calibrated it with 2 and 20 white points but regardless of that the curve is horrible.

Expert Dark room:

Brightness is at 52
Contrast: 80
Oled light: 50
Colour: 50
Colour Gamut: Normal
All picture 'improvement' features are on OFF

Gamma curve reminds me a lot of this one:

.imgur.com/wZem7UV.png
Hi,

MobileForge with CalMAN is not accurate patch generation solution for any supported from MobileForge installation device tested, as you have seen to these tests: The cheap Test Pattern Generators accuracy thread

The most accurate way if yout ATV is your actual movie source is to use SDR patterns as media files format, you will stream from ATV, to be able to emulate the same video processing/colorspace conversions like when you will playback a movie content.

You will have to use some bit-perfect patterns for this job, AVSHD disk for example is not bit-perfect for grayscale to use for CalMAN, see there.

Set to your CalMAN settings at target colorspace REC.709 D65 with gamma 2.4

There no need to use the flow of any specific workflow, you start by using the most accurate picture mode (ISF dark for your TV) finding out what TV colorspace option provides better color gamut tracking of you target gamut (use 5-Point Saturation Sweep to find out, its 'normal gamut' for your TV), then check what color temp mode has less RGB balance errors (probably warm2 to your TV), then do the same with gamma presets...to find out which setting provide you closer tracking of your target gamma (2.4 to your TV)....then check contrast/brightness/color for clipping, start with 2-Point RGB balance using 5% Gray (RGB-Low) and 100% White pattern using RGB High). Fix using RGB-High controls RGB balance errors only...while with oled light handle and set the peak output you want)....then after a lot of back/forth between these 2 measurements and by checking again contrast/brightness, you will move to 20-Point RGB balance adjustments....after the end of grayscale calibration (and by checking again contrast/brightness) you move to CMS calibration and after the end of CMS you re-check Grayscale and CMS again for smaller re-adjustments.

When you will move to 20-point, don't touch the 5% gray controls, they are affecting a lot your near black details, also see if you can handle better RGB balance/gamma errors only by using RGB balance adjustments, not using Luminance controls, there some sets where they introduced anomalies to real content when you are using Luminance adjustments (this problem is variable, not affecting all models around the world).

About CMS calibration, its not working as expected, you have to always check color ramps and real content to see if one CMS adjustment will introduce any problem, most of the times, ignoring CMS calibration is better solutions to these sets.

For all the above, there no CalMAN workflow to explain you exactly with that detail all these steps, but the more time you will spend by practicing and testing, the more you will learn and realize about how stuff works. Each display is different, the more different models you will calibrate, the more issues you will face and resolve...and more experience you will gain.
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