LG 2017 OLED Calibration Thread and Settings - Page 102 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3031 of 3141 Old 10-12-2018, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sperry8 View Post
Alright, thank you. Doesn't appear easy for a mac (it's not a straight download and requires some sort of conversion software) and even then I wouldn't know how to load up onto my Apple TV. Plus I'm really not sure what they're talking about on that link re instructions (need to be some sort of techie to get it going). So I guess this sort of basic calibration isn't for newbies like me. I'll just have to wait it out until 100 hours and a professional calibrator can come.

Frustrating the manufacturers make this so hard for us laypeople. We spend thousands and they give us a non-calibrated TV that looks like crap and then we have to wait months and pay hundreds to fix.
Many people have been happy with these settings. The better quality content you watch the better the TV will shine. A HDR/DV movie on disc offers the best possible picture and sound. Reruns of old TV shows especially on 'low quality' cable channels may make you cringe at times but that's the TV showing you the content as is. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post55037420
-all credit goes to user sonoftumble
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post #3032 of 3141 Old 10-12-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Sperry8 View Post
Alright, thank you. Doesn't appear easy for a mac (it's not a straight download and requires some sort of conversion software) and even then I wouldn't know how to load up onto my Apple TV. Plus I'm really not sure what they're talking about on that link re instructions (need to be some sort of techie to get it going). So I guess this sort of basic calibration isn't for newbies like me. I'll just have to wait it out until 100 hours and a professional calibrator can come.

Frustrating the manufacturers make this so hard for us laypeople. We spend thousands and they give us a non-calibrated TV that looks like crap and then we have to wait months and pay hundreds to fix.
Honestly, all this isn't really hard. But discs are aimed at use with consumer Home Theater playback equipment such as DVD players. They operate more or less along the same signal specifications as cable boxes, satellite, and Over The Air broadcasts. With the advent of digital media players and home theater PCs, things have gotten a bit more complex. You can help yourself by taking the set out of any "Vivid" mode it might be in (try a cinema or theater mode if it has one), and turning off any "enhancements". These artificially affect the picture, and can exaggerate colors and contrast, etc.

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post #3033 of 3141 Old 10-12-2018, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cathodeRay View Post
Many people have been happy with these settings. The better quality content you watch the better the TV will shine. A HDR/DV movie on disc offers the best possible picture and sound. Reruns of old TV shows especially on 'low quality' cable channels may make you cringe at times but that's the TV showing you the content as is. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...l#post55037420
-all credit goes to user sonoftumble
Maybe I can manually set my TV similar to the fellow in the link you provided, thanks.

As for old reruns, yes. They look so bad they are almost impossible to watch. M*A*S*H and All in The Family for example. It's almost as if this TV enhances their poor quality. I don't recall these shows being so bad when I watched on my old, crappier, Vizio LED TV. Also - Sports look miserable. Colors are way off (reds are so red it's absurd). And the Vivid or Sports setting makes it even worse.

It is true that there are certain channels that look a lot better. Mostly new movies like Avengers or similar. When those sorts of movies come on (or BBC Planet Earth) I can see the potential of this TV. And the Cinema setting or Expert Bright/Dark are OK when on these channels/shows.

But for reruns, live NFL or any live sports, live ESPN, live CNBC, or anything watched during the daytime (where the room has glare), the TV is really poor. I'm sure a calibration can fix. In the interim - will just have to bear it. I'm sure it gets better - since the reviews of this TV is off the charts and I don't see many people complaining. But for me so far, this is an expensive upgrade I'm regretting. I'll never buy a TV without seeing it live in store again.
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post #3034 of 3141 Old 10-17-2018, 01:07 AM
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X-Rite I1 DisplayPro

Hello, i’ve searched this thread and the basic guide to calibration, would appreciate some confirmation about my summary below regarding the usage of X-Rite I1 DisplayPro as a color analyzer.

Q1: The I1 Display Pro can be used to calibrate my OLED65E7 SDR modes (along with HCFR and patterns, and many days of reading).
Q2: Can the above device be used to calibrate any aspect of HDR mode (DV or HDR10)? I understand and read that DV calibration is usually done w expensive software and a special laptop HW config.
Q3: Does it matter if the manuf date is 2017 for I1 ?

Thank you !

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For those interested:

LG 2017 OLEDs - Calibrated Settings for Xbox One X / webOS (SDR/HDR/DV) - FINAL

Completely revamped and final profiles both for webOS/Movies and X1X Gaming.

Enjoy
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post #3036 of 3141 Old 10-21-2018, 12:33 PM
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Struggling with dark scenes on an ISF calibrated W77

I got my one year old OLED77W7P calibrated by a local ISF guy in Seattle that my installer recommended. He used Calman 5, Sencore OTC‐1000 and Sencore VideoPro 400 and appeared to have his act together.

Bright scenes look great but dark scenes in 4K content are positively gloomy and I'm struggling to believe this is the intended result. I almost always watch in a completely dark room but I'm using his ISF day setting because the night setting is unwatchable in many dark scenes.

e.g. Netflix content in 4k Dolby Vision (Daredevil Season 3) is partly unwatchable. Some 4k UHD's like Mad Max Glory Road (which I believe is HDR but not DV) look good in parts and gloomy in other parts.

This wasn't a problem before calibration. Any thoughts? Calibration settings below plus Calman output for Day mode. I'm not expert enough to interpret all of this but it would be great to get some other opinions because the alternative is that I am slowly going blind.

Quote:
ISF CALIBRATION REFERENCE DOC.
DISPLAY MODEL INFO: LG 77' OLED MODEL 77WP HDR
PICTURE MODE: CINEMA HOME
N/A FT LAMBERTS
PICTURE MODE SETTINGS CINEMA HOME
OLED LIGHT: 100
CONTRAST: 95
BRIGHTNESS: 48
SHARPNESS: 20
COLOR: 64
TINT: 0
ADVANCED CONTROLS PICTURE OPTIONS
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: OFF NOISE REDUCTION: OFF
DYNAMIC COLOR: OFF MPEG NOISE REDUCTION : OFF
PREFERRED COLOR: OFF BLACK LEVEL: LOW
COLOR GAMUT: EXTENDED REAL CINEMA: N/A
SUPER RESOLUTION: LOW TRUE MOTION: DJ: 2 DB: 0
GAMMA: N/A

WHITE BALANCE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
COLOR TEMP: W30 ASPECT RATIO: 16:9 / JUST SCAN: ON

ENERGY SAVING: OFF
COLOR MANAGE SYS EYE COMFORT MODE: OFF
PICTURE TEST: N/A
ALL 0 OLED PANEL SETTINGS: N/A

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post #3037 of 3141 Old 10-21-2018, 03:17 PM
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Hi, I have an LG OLED55B7V. I wish to calibrate my TV using HCFR software with a Spyder5 colorimeter. I have seen much technical information on this site but can someone please guide me. What are the correct settings for HCFR using Spyder5? I am selecting the OLED B7 2017 as the display type. I wish to calibrate to D65 standard. I am using HD709 setting. All other settings are DEFAULT. Contrary to opinion on here I find the settings for both Warm 1 and Warm 2 produce a white balance well down in the blue. The nearest I can find to adjust is the MEDIUM setting which when adjusted to produce the D65 standard appears a bit blue. All the measurements after calibration are well within specified parameters for D65. Am I missing something here or am doing things correctly? What I am really asking is, what is the starting point, because if that is not right, nothing else will be!
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post #3038 of 3141 Old 10-21-2018, 08:16 PM
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^^^You should try asking in the main HCFR thread. You'll generally find much more detailed info on setting up and using the program over there.

...Royce...

"I never drink...wine."
Bela Lugosi, DRACULA, 1931

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post #3039 of 3141 Old 10-22-2018, 02:36 AM
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Will do! Thanks for the info.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analog8 View Post
I got my one year old OLED77W7P calibrated by a local ISF guy in Seattle that my installer recommended. He used Calman 5, Sencore OTC‐1000 and Sencore VideoPro 400 and appeared to have his act together.

Bright scenes look great but dark scenes in 4K content are positively gloomy and I'm struggling to believe this is the intended result. I almost always watch in a completely dark room but I'm using his ISF day setting because the night setting is unwatchable in many dark scenes.

e.g. Netflix content in 4k Dolby Vision (Daredevil Season 3) is partly unwatchable. Some 4k UHD's like Mad Max Glory Road (which I believe is HDR but not DV) look good in parts and gloomy in other parts.

This wasn't a problem before calibration. Any thoughts? Calibration settings below plus Calman output for Day mode. I'm not expert enough to interpret all of this but it would be great to get some other opinions because the alternative is that I am slowly going blind.

That report. Bad pre and post calibration. Did you pay for it? OOTB these set should be no more than dE 2.5. With only 2pt WB you get down to dE 0.5. Looks like the guy never calibrated an Oled before.

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post #3041 of 3141 Old 10-22-2018, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MrRobotoPlus View Post
That report. Bad pre and post calibration. Did you pay for it? OOTB these set should be no more than dE 2.5. With only 2pt WB you get down to dE 0.5. Looks like the guy never calibrated an Oled before.
The Sencore VP400 is also an older piece of gear and not for HDR. In fact, stock, it isn't even set up for HDMI.
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post #3042 of 3141 Old 10-22-2018, 10:29 AM
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^And looks like he did 10pt greyscale only.

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post #3043 of 3141 Old 10-22-2018, 03:05 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I am glad it's not just me then.

So I guess my next question is - can anyone recommend a great calibrator in Seattle?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRobotoPlus View Post
That report. Bad pre and post calibration. Did you pay for it? OOTB these set should be no more than dE 2.5. With only 2pt WB you get down to dE 0.5. Looks like the guy never calibrated an Oled before.
I am an amater and that is my result without changing CMS settings.
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Are there any definitive settings for HDR Game mode? Picking up a PS4 Pro and started some research regarding settings on the B7/PS4 Pro and saw that HDR in Game Mode has a dim issue?

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Originally Posted by P40L0 View Post
For those interested:

LG 2017 OLEDs - Calibrated Settings for Xbox One X / webOS (SDR/HDR/DV) - FINAL

Completely revamped and final profiles both for webOS/Movies and X1X Gaming.

Enjoy
Hi thanks so much for this. What would you recommend for standard cable tv? Are the settings on rtings good enough? Thanks again
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post #3047 of 3141 Old 10-29-2018, 01:11 AM
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Hi thanks so much for this. What would you recommend for standard cable tv? Are the settings on rtings good enough? Thanks again
Use the same webOS SDR Profile you can see in the post and just enable Super Resolution to LOW and Noise Reduction/MPEG Noise Reduction both to LOW, and you're set even for cable TV
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
^^^You should try asking in the main HCFR thread. You'll generally find much more detailed info on setting up and using the program over there.

Thanks for pointing me over there. I have now a better grasp of the basics and the procedure to follow. I have calibrated my LG OLED55B7V as follows:

1. Set Brightness and Contrast as per AVCHD709 test charts.
2. Selected my preferred ISF setting of ISF Dark Room and Warm 1.
3. Set White Balance using 2pt scale
4. Made minor adjustments to WB from 5% to 100% IRE using 20pt Scale



This gives a pretty accurate WB, Gamma, Luminance, Colour Temp 6500k, and CIE chart. I have NOT touched the CMS at all. Do I need to?


One thing I have noticed is that ALL colour temps from Cool to Warm 3 in Dark Room now have my settings. It seems as if they are all now based on my WB settings. Is this correct? Has anyone else noticed this?
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post #3049 of 3141 Old 10-29-2018, 08:11 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. I am glad it's not just me then.

So I guess my next question is - can anyone recommend a great calibrator in Seattle?
Spectracal is out there, call them and ask them to recommend someone. That OTC-1000 is very old technology, not to say that it's bad or anything. Just that things have come quite a ways since that meter came out.

You can also check the ISF site. Look under the dealers header.
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post #3050 of 3141 Old 10-29-2018, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry B View Post
Thanks for pointing me over there. I have now a better grasp of the basics and the procedure to follow. I have calibrated my LG OLED55B7V as follows:

1. Set Brightness and Contrast as per AVCHD709 test charts.
2. Selected my preferred ISF setting of ISF Dark Room and Warm 1.
3. Set White Balance using 2pt scale
4. Made minor adjustments to WB from 5% to 100% IRE using 20pt Scale



This gives a pretty accurate WB, Gamma, Luminance, Colour Temp 6500k, and CIE chart. I have NOT touched the CMS at all. Do I need to?


One thing I have noticed is that ALL colour temps from Cool to Warm 3 in Dark Room now have my settings. It seems as if they are all now based on my WB settings. Is this correct? Has anyone else noticed this?
I personally wouldn't touch the CMS. LG hasn't had a good reputation for their CMS implementations in the past.

...Royce...

"I never drink...wine."
Bela Lugosi, DRACULA, 1931
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post #3051 of 3141 Old 10-29-2018, 10:03 AM
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I personally wouldn't touch the CMS. LG hasn't had a good reputation for their CMS implementations in the past.
Thanks Rolls-Royce, I won't touch the CMS in light of what you say about LG! I'll just fine tune the 20pt WB settings until the errors are as small as I get them and leave it at that!
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Thanks Rolls-Royce, I won't touch the CMS in light of what you say about LG! I'll just fine tune the 20pt WB settings until the errors are as small as I get them and leave it at that!
Well, after a second run things are looking good. TheWB values are all below 0.5 with most at 0.2. The only thing I found was that I had to bring the gamma back in line with adjustments to the luminance at various points on the WB scale and then tweaking the RGB values again at those points. The picture looks excellent now and as a bonus a lot of that pink hue that gets mentioned which I had too, has now reduced considerably to a point at which it is barely noticeable, even in snow scenes. Now I don't know if that is related to the calibration process or what, but it has certainly improved the situation!
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post #3053 of 3141 Old 11-06-2018, 02:37 AM
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LG finally fixed PC Mode both for LG 2017 and 2018 OLEDs
(so no more washed out colors, color banding or other PC Mode HDR related issues with these sets)

Check your region/language official LG Support website to manually download/install via USB the latest firmware for your model.

Then following you can find latest calibrated profiles to accomodate this Major change, providing a more accurate SDR and a brighter/richer HDR picure quality for gaming and also for mixed usage:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/141-x...l#post56971892
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post #3054 of 3141 Old 11-07-2018, 04:22 AM
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Hello, i’ve searched this thread and the basic guide to calibration, would appreciate some confirmation about my summary below regarding the usage of X-Rite I1 DisplayPro as a color analyzer.

Q1: The I1 Display Pro can be used to calibrate my OLED65E7 SDR modes (along with HCFR and patterns, and many days of reading).
Q2: Can the above device be used to calibrate any aspect of HDR mode (DV or HDR10)? I understand and read that DV calibration is usually done w expensive software and a special laptop HW config.
Q3: Does it matter if the manuf date is 2017 for I1 ?

Thank you !
Hello,

Q1: Any TV/projector, just as any colorimeter, your color accuracy is good when you will measure a display/projector tech with same SPD with the ones the meter correction table you have available, coming from the factory.

The best choice to achieve the most color accurate results when you will measure any display/projector technology it will require to have both a spectrophotometer/spectroradiometer and a colorimeter.

Meter profiling is a process for improving the accuracy of a filter-based colorimeter, for a specific display/projector. Profiling creates a calibration profile for the colorimeter, for the display currently being measured, based on display measurement data from a reference spectrophotometer/spectroradiometer.

When you profile a colorimeter, you measure the unique spectral characteristics of a display with a spectrophotometer/spectroradiometer and basically you transfer that accuracy to your colorimeter, for that display/projector.

The process is known as the Four-Color Matrix Method (FCMM) for Correction of Tristimulus Colorimeter developed by Ohno and Hardis at NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology).

There more info related here.

Q2: Using HCFR and HDR10 patterns, you can calibrate for HDR10. For Dolby Vision, you will need special software and hardware.

Q3: for OEM only, see there.
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S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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post #3055 of 3141 Old 11-07-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analog8 View Post
I got my one year old OLED77W7P calibrated by a local ISF guy in Seattle that my installer recommended. He used Calman 5, Sencore OTC‐1000 and Sencore VideoPro 400 and appeared to have his act together.

Bright scenes look great but dark scenes in 4K content are positively gloomy and I'm struggling to believe this is the intended result. I almost always watch in a completely dark room but I'm using his ISF day setting because the night setting is unwatchable in many dark scenes.

e.g. Netflix content in 4k Dolby Vision (Daredevil Season 3) is partly unwatchable. Some 4k UHD's like Mad Max Glory Road (which I believe is HDR but not DV) look good in parts and gloomy in other parts.

This wasn't a problem before calibration. Any thoughts? Calibration settings below plus Calman output for Day mode. I'm not expert enough to interpret all of this but it would be great to get some other opinions because the alternative is that I am slowly going blind.

ISF CALIBRATION REFERENCE DOC.
DISPLAY MODEL INFO: LG 77' OLED MODEL 77WP HDR
PICTURE MODE: CINEMA HOME
N/A FT LAMBERTS
PICTURE MODE SETTINGS CINEMA HOME
OLED LIGHT: 100
CONTRAST: 95
BRIGHTNESS: 48
SHARPNESS: 20
COLOR: 64
TINT: 0
ADVANCED CONTROLS PICTURE OPTIONS
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: OFF NOISE REDUCTION: OFF
DYNAMIC COLOR: OFF MPEG NOISE REDUCTION : OFF
PREFERRED COLOR: OFF BLACK LEVEL: LOW
COLOR GAMUT: EXTENDED REAL CINEMA: N/A
SUPER RESOLUTION: LOW TRUE MOTION: DJ: 2 DB: 0
GAMMA: N/A

WHITE BALANCE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
COLOR TEMP: W30 ASPECT RATIO: 16:9 / JUST SCAN: ON

ENERGY SAVING: OFF
COLOR MANAGE SYS EYE COMFORT MODE: OFF
PICTURE TEST: N/A
ALL 0 OLED PANEL SETTINGS: N/A
The issue are you seeing is typically from a bad calibration, if that Isf calibrator did something wrong like touch to much 2 points low white balance control with + positive values!

Also BRIGHTNESS 48 wrong and SHARPNESS 20 is definitely High for HDR, at last COLOR 64 with wrong color space "EXTENDED" is definitely wrong.,... Sorry if may be sounds bad...

That report is by the way SDR mode before and after Calibration.
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post #3056 of 3141 Old 11-09-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Rolls-Royce View Post
I personally wouldn't touch the CMS. LG hasn't had a good reputation for their CMS implementations in the past.
After several reruns of calibrations getting the white balance as near as possible to perfect, on each occasion I tried using the CMS and results are rubbish. The green drive is way out of line and any attempt to try and bring it back is futile as it remains stubbornly on the perimeter of the CIE chart. Red and Blue are acceptable but because of this green push secondary colours especially yellow which has a slight green bias, are affected adversely. So, as you suggest, don't even touch the CMS on an LG! Getting the WB as close as possible to perfect corrects a lot of the colour errors and leaves you with a beautiful picture! Leave the CMS alone!!

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post #3057 of 3141 Old 11-10-2018, 11:13 AM
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Picked up a 65b7 for a ridiculous price about 2 weeks ago to upgrade from my vt50. Always seems like I'm one year early from the best model lil. Read the entire thread. So many familiar names from way back. I'd like to thank all of you for the time and energy put in to make this thread what it is. Finally got around to my first calibration session. Some rather large differences from what I've read here. Using hcfr and i1display pro in a pitch black room, I had to adjust 2pt high an extreme amount. -16R and -5B. Putting the panny side by side, it looks correct. However, I'm obsessed with accuracy and with what I've read here, those changes just don't sound right. Just ordered an i1pro as it seems the price has finally reached my price range. Should be here in a couple days. That will help a little but still no guarantee. Have I mentioned I haven't even considered doing hdr yet? Any pros ever in the rochester, NY area? Getting a pro in here might be the only way to satisfy my ocd. Once again, thank you to all who work so hard over the years helping us ametures understand the world of calibration
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post #3058 of 3141 Old 11-10-2018, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjjunior401 View Post
Picked up a 65b7 for a ridiculous price about 2 weeks ago to upgrade from my vt50. Always seems like I'm one year early from the best model lil. Read the entire thread. So many familiar names from way back. I'd like to thank all of you for the time and energy put in to make this thread what it is. Finally got around to my first calibration session. Some rather large differences from what I've read here. Using hcfr and i1display pro in a pitch black room, I had to adjust 2pt high an extreme amount. -16R and -5B. Putting the panny side by side, it looks correct. However, I'm obsessed with accuracy and with what I've read here, those changes just don't sound right. Just ordered an i1pro as it seems the price has finally reached my price range. Should be here in a couple days. That will help a little but still no guarantee. Have I mentioned I haven't even considered doing hdr yet? Any pros ever in the rochester, NY area? Getting a pro in here might be the only way to satisfy my ocd. Once again, thank you to all who work so hard over the years helping us ametures understand the world of calibration
Hi, do you have the capability to display to evaluate the displays side-to-side, do you have them to the same room?

If, yes, then calibrate only 100% White using your spectro (same nits output 80-100) each one display and then display to both TV's a 10% Window sized patch of 100% White.......does it look the same to your eyes or not? If its different, then proceed with perceptual patching of OLED having as reference the plasma: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post56761302

After having the new custom white point, then proceed with meter correction table procedure for your i1Display PRO using the i1PRO as reference and perform your grayscale (and see if it works the CMS calibration then) of your LG, using as target colorspace REC.709 primaries with custom white point @ HCFR settings.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5
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post #3059 of 3141 Old 11-10-2018, 01:05 PM
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Yes, I still have the plasma setup next to it for evaluation purposes until I have everything dialed in. At first glance 80% at 80 nits looked similar but the oled has been measured with i1display pro only. Spectro will be here later in the week. The vt50 was calibrated with i1display pro profiled to i1pro that I rented about 5 years ago. Surprisingly the calibration measures within meter repeatability after all these years. Ordered my own i1pro this morning and should be here in 3 days. Staring at 100% now, they actually don't look as close as I originally thought. At first I thought it was ABL on the plasma but at 100 nits the ABL shouldn't make that much of a difference. Think I will wait for the spectro just to make sure my id3 is accurate before going ahead with an alternate wp. A display as nice as this 65b7 might need a pro regardless (especially when I don't have the ability to calibrate dv)
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post #3060 of 3141 Old 11-10-2018, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjjunior401 View Post
Yes, I still have the plasma setup next to it for evaluation purposes until I have everything dialed in. At first glance 80% at 80 nits looked similar but the oled has been measured with i1display pro only. Spectro will be here later in the week. The vt50 was calibrated with i1display pro profiled to i1pro that I rented about 5 years ago. Surprisingly the calibration measures within meter repeatability after all these years. Ordered my own i1pro this morning and should be here in 3 days. Staring at 100% now, they actually don't look as close as I originally thought. At first I thought it was ABL on the plasma but at 100 nits the ABL shouldn't make that much of a difference. Think I will wait for the spectro just to make sure my id3 is accurate before going ahead with an alternate wp. A display as nice as this 65b7 might need a pro regardless (especially when I don't have the ability to calibrate dv)
A 100% white window will start to drift (loose red) after it has been up for just a few seconds.

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