2018 LG OLED Calibration and User Settings (No price talk) - Page 122 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3631 of 3665 Old 11-15-2019, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Anger.miki View Post
Just wondering if you’ve found out all that by yourself or you should thank someone...
It's the update of all the posts from September and October, I thanked you all at the time back then, but I'm very happy to thank again, to you, Ted, Tyler, janos666 and everyone else on the thread

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post #3632 of 3665 Old 11-18-2019, 05:10 AM
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LG 65B8 - HDR Module is ON in In-Start menu

This is just a quick test what HDR Module = ON does.

Peak brightness:
- in HDR: 840 nits (690 nits with Normal)
- in SDR:
-- Gamma 2.2 / OLED light 100 / Contrast 100: 640 nits
-- Gamma 2.2 / OLED light 100 / Contrast 85: 540 nits

SDR gamma tracking is screwed up completely (white line is the reference, yellow is the measured, blue is average), while PQ tracking is not that bad.
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post #3633 of 3665 Old 11-19-2019, 05:32 AM
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Hello everyone, I have done a manual home calibration with an eye one display pro and cromaPure, my calibration knowledge is limited and for now I have limited the gray scale and gamma, the CMS I have not touched it for fear of introducing artifacts or make the color worse. My method has been with an 80% pattern to adjust the RGB of the high pass as close as possible to D65, then I used the 20p method to get errors below 0.5. Except 5, which gives me a higher error value. The result is good and I am satisfied, but I wonder if I have proceeded correctly due to my limited knowledge. Thank you very much and I hope to continue learning.
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post #3634 of 3665 Old 11-19-2019, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro Ferreres Gordillo View Post
Hello everyone, I have done a manual home calibration with an eye one display pro and cromaPure, my calibration knowledge is limited and for now I have limited the gray scale and gamma, the CMS I have not touched it for fear of introducing artifacts or make the color worse. My method has been with an 80% pattern to adjust the RGB of the high pass as close as possible to D65, then I used the 20p method to get errors below 0.5. Except 5, which gives me a higher error value. The result is good and I am satisfied, but I wonder if I have proceeded correctly due to my limited knowledge. Thank you very much and I hope to continue learning.
What I've done, as recommended in this thread, is calibrate the white point through the service menu (an adjustment of the High "Warm" setting will carry across to the Warm 2 / W50 setting of the user menu). Average dE across the greyscale in SDR was 1.1 and nothing over 2 other than at 5% (as you found). I lifted the luminance at 5% using the 20p adjustment menu.

After that simple greyscale adjustment I checked colour space, saturation sweeps and the colour checker, nothing was over 2 - good enough for me so no adjustment of the CMS either.

I'm not the expert here though, so between yourself and I, I'm also interested to hear feedback.

One more thing, for the SDR Game Mode I used CalMAN and their standard 3D LUT calibration method (though there are more ways to do it than via CalMAN) in order to bring the gamut in line. There are some artefacts introduced by this process, but personally I don't consider them major.

EDIT: Oh yes, and I did find on visual inspection red luminance in DV was slightly too high (using the DVS DV suite's color decoding pattern in conjunction with the TV's RGB Off feature), this I dropped slightly in the CMS. The same issue didn't crop up with the SDR or HDR10 versions of the pattern. Please do let me know if I've misunderstood anything and done this in error.

Last edited by Ken Masters; 11-19-2019 at 07:10 AM.
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post #3635 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 03:55 AM
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Hi,

I am having some difficulties with my LG OLED77C8LLA.
I am using Firmware 05.10.20

I am in contact with LG support regarding the first issue, but thought I would ask here as well.
The second issue is regarding color calibration.

Images I am reffering to are here: http://norlig.no/img/OLED77C8/

1st issue caused by Screen/Pixel Shift
1. My TV will randomly cut a few pixels from the edge of the screen, either Left+bottomn or Right+Bottomn. (havent noticed both sides at the same time, yet)
Top_Left_(Before) (missing 5 pixel lines)
Bottomn_Right_(Before) (missing 1-2 pixel lines)

After using the LIVE ZOOM function on my remote control, then exiting Live Zoom again, the image will be perfect on all edges.
Untill a few minutes pass and its broken again.

Top_Left_(After) (all 7 lines are visible)
Bottomn_Right_(After) (white pixel line around the edge is back)

LG Support told me to enable "Just Scan", which I already had set to "On", and they suggested I reset the TV to factory settings, which I have done, but it did not fix the issue.


2. I am unable to fix my color "Contrast"
I am following This Guide on how to calibrate the TV. I am currently on Step 04. Color Scale
In this Image I can see that more or less all my colors are wrong.
I am currently trying to calibrate the Expert (Dark Room) Profile.

I wanted to start with Red, as that one is the most out of calibration.
I went to Picture mode -> Expert Controls -> Colour Management System , but whichever setting I change there, the color bars does not get more/less visible.

I also tried changing the Red Gain in white balance, but it did not make a change to the scale.

I tried changing the Picure Profile to for example Standard, but The colors were still out of wack.

I dont have a service remote to be able to change any special settings.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Last edited by Norlig; 11-24-2019 at 04:26 AM.
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post #3636 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norlig View Post
Hi,

I am having some difficulties with my LG OLED77C8LLA.
I am using Firmware 05.10.20

[...]

I also tried changing the Red Gain in white balance, but it did not make a change to the scale.

I tried changing the Picure Profile to for example Standard, but The colors were still out of wack.

I dont have a service remote to be able to change any special settings.
Which meter and software are you using? Ie how have you measured to prove that the colours are "out of whack"? I'm a little worried that you are just making adjustments without a meter and then looking with just your eyes. If that's the case, it's not "calibration".
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post #3637 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Which meter and software are you using? Ie how have you measured to prove that the colours are "out of whack"? I'm a little worried that you are just making adjustments without a meter and then looking with just your eyes. If that's the case, it's not "calibration".
I do have a datacolor Spyder5 Pro (with provided software) that I used on my Computer monitors, but when I tried that on the TV, it looks way worse and it thinks Gamma is 1.6.

Calibration on and Calibration off
But I cant use this on a TV I think, due to the TV's inability to keep the brightness the same if the entire screen is white, or if a smaller point is white, and the softwrae is unable to handle that.

It also seems like the sensor doesnt pick up that I change the saturation of Red (the red bar in the measuring image doesnt go up) , even though I can see on the screen that the bar changes its own red color.
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post #3638 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 06:37 AM
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Computer Monitors are alot different than your TV. It sounds like you have not done near enough research on your project.

Nothing's Impossible if you don't have to do it yourself ! Glenee
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post #3639 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 07:48 AM
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Computer Monitors are alot different than your TV. It sounds like you have not done near enough research on your project.
Indeed, I dont know much in regards of manual or sensor-assisted calibration of TV's.

That is why I tried following the guide on calibracionhd.com.

But when I was unable to follow the steps any further, and I didnt see any improvement when changing the sliders, although the guide indicated that I should; I wanted to ask for help

I know it wont be perfect withouth a proper sensor, but atleast I would be able to see the differences in light-black and light-light-black.
After the factory reset, the blacks seemed alot darker and stuck together than what they previously were, and I was missing minute details shadows.

After following the guide and getting the brightness and contrast "correct" by following the pictures in the guide, it got alot better.

But I still feel like the colors are off a little bit, and if it can be atleast a little bit better by following a guide and using my eyes, thats better than nothing


Right now I just want to be able to move some sliders around and see that all the color bars are distinguishable.
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post #3640 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norlig View Post
Indeed, I dont know much in regards of manual or sensor-assisted calibration of TV's.

That is why I tried following the guide on calibracionhd.com.

But when I was unable to follow the steps any further, and I didnt see any improvement when changing the sliders, although the guide indicated that I should; I wanted to ask for help

I know it wont be perfect withouth a proper sensor, but atleast I would be able to see the differences in light-black and light-light-black.
After the factory reset, the blacks seemed alot darker and stuck together than what they previously were, and I was missing minute details shadows.

After following the guide and getting the brightness and contrast "correct" by following the pictures in the guide, it got alot better.

But I still feel like the colors are off a little bit, and if it can be atleast a little bit better by following a guide and using my eyes, thats better than nothing


Right now I just want to be able to move some sliders around and see that all the color bars are distinguishable.
Without a meter and proper software, you really cannot do CMS adjustments. Most advice is to leave that alone, anyway, except for very small changes. LG's CMS controls are pretty bad and cause artifacts when manipulated more than a tiny bit.
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post #3641 of 3665 Old 11-24-2019, 12:56 PM
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Without a meter and proper software, you really cannot do CMS adjustments. Most advice is to leave that alone, anyway, except for very small changes. LG's CMS controls are pretty bad and cause artifacts when manipulated more than a tiny bit.
I think they always cause artifacts and we simply don't recognize the tiny ones. Although the most evident and understandable behavior is when you increase the luminance sliders. I see how that causes clipping (if not implemented carefully). I guess the WTW allowance, the default Contrast of 85 leaves some breathing room for this in SDR but not in HDR. Anyways, the CMS is definitely something you want to avoid in the presence of a 3DLUT, especially if it's programmable.
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post #3642 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 04:05 AM
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If I want to calibrate to D65 from the service menu with the COOL preset, I must set the red to 192 and adjust by lowering blue and green until the correct coordinates are reached. This will only affect COOL and not the rest of the average, warm WB ... I have calibrated from the MS with the warm preset, it will be enough to copy the RGB values ​​to COOL mode and it is the same but it will only affect the Cool preset. I will return the default values ​​to warm and that's it. Please, I understood correctly. Thank you .
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post #3643 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Pedro Ferreres Gordillo View Post
If I want to calibrate to D65 from the service menu with the COOL preset, I must set the red to 192 and adjust by lowering blue and green until the correct coordinates are reached. This will only affect COOL and not the rest of the average, warm WB ... I have calibrated from the MS with the warm preset, it will be enough to copy the RGB values ​​to COOL mode and it is the same but it will only affect the Cool preset. I will return the default values ​​to warm and that's it. Please, I understood correctly. Thank you .
Yes, about copying the RGB values in the SM from Warm to Cool, and return the previous values to Warm.

This is what I did, and yes it affects the Cool preset and also on the modes with the slides that go from C50-W50, you have sacrificed the range from cool-warm, and the C50 end will use your "cool" which is really D65 :-)

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post #3644 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 10:26 AM
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okay . But I understand that the color temperature bar of the game modes W 50 - C50 will only begin to lower the temperature from C20, until that value approximately will not affect. True??? I am indifferent to sacrificing the Cool preset, and converting it to D65, but I prefer to keep it warm as 1 and a half series. Thank you
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post #3645 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 10:46 AM
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Sorry, I don't know if I'm expressing well. I want to say that if I set from SM cool to D65 and use to play WB C10 games mode, it doesn't affect. true? only from C25 approximately
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post #3646 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janos666 View Post
I think it should be easy for anyone capable of writing the code if LG's 1DLUT format is technically public or trivial to reverse-engineer. May be Florian will pick this up: https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/reply/20331/
I've managed to reverse engineer most of the protocol. See https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/reply/21190/ with more details and github links.

I'll post here once this is ready for general use (as a standalone command line tool for DDC reset and LUT uploads to start with).

Appreciated that this functionality is available with Calman and DeviceControl with LG templates, but this is a free/open source alternative.
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post #3647 of 3665 Old 11-25-2019, 02:01 PM
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I've managed to reverse engineer most of the protocol. See https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/reply/21190/ with more details and github links.

I'll post here once this is ready for general use (as a standalone command line tool for DDC reset and LUT uploads to start with).

Appreciated that this functionality is available with Calman and DeviceControl with LG templates, but this is a free/open source alternative.

That could be useful with DisplayCAL.

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Originally Posted by janos666 View Post
My imagined test case was resetting the 1DLUT and uploading a 3DLUT to the HDR10 slot which targets Rec2020, D65 and gamma 2.2 while LG's HDR mapping is kept enabled. So, basically I wanted to try moving the panel calibration (the white balance and gamma response) from the 1DLUT to the 3DLUT (just to see if the hardware handles the modified 3DLUT better than the modified 1DLUT and/or if the LUT itself is smoother when it's constructed from static measurements instead iterative calibration --- because I can't generate a 1DLUT from static data with the tools at my disposal).
So, in steps: Send an HDR signal, reset an HDR mode and put it into calibration/bypass mode, take some measurements (50-100 patches or so) with DisplayCAL (matrix+shaper profiling), create a 3DLUT with targets which fit between the native panel response and LG's tone-mapping functions, upload the 3DLUT, disable calibration mode. But do this either with the "W boost" disabled (and left disabled for good) or with a carefully chosen patch set (where R,G,B are below their respective peak brightness levels, so they aren't individually clipped at their arbitrary peaks but fit the same % level).

I eventually worked out how to do this (Calibrate the HDR10/HLG mode with DisplayCAL):

1: Send fake HDR10 signal (HDFury or NVAPI), reset the picture mode
2: measure a small test chart with DisplayCAL (I used 65 linear gray steps + R,G,B at 100%) and create an XYZ cLUT profile (for a test chart like this, curves+matrix would be preferred but the WRGB magic renders that useless)
3: create an AutoDesk/Kodak 3DLUT (don't use the LG preset for CalMAN) for Rec2020 and gamma 2.2 targets (D65 is implied by Rec2020), 0-255 input, 0-255 output, 10bit input, 12bit output, 33x33x33 for Alpha9, 17x17x17 for Alpha7
4: set CalMAN's patter generator setting from the default "TV 16-235" to "PC 0-255" levels
5: upload the .3dl with CalMAN and disable calibration mode

The resulting color accuracy is not a beauty contest winner but it's fine for home use (especially when the display panel's stability is considered).

The same thing applies to SDR, except you obviously should not send HDR10 signal for profiling and you should (optionally) set the Contrast from 85 to 100 before you start the profiling (to get the 960-1023 internal range profiled) and either leave it there after the profiling completed (it's fine to do so if you don't need the WTW range but you shouldn't need it, so...) or revert if to 85 if you like (to preserve the WTW range). I think it's probably better to leave it at 100 from most aspects (or at least not worse) except higher Contrast + lower OLED Light (to achieve the same peak white output) seems to make the ABL trigger sooner (and that's not nice either for a day mode, nor a generic mode with Motion Pro / BFI).

So far this DisplayCAL method gives me the subjectively best looking result in HDR10 with the least amount of gradient banding or magenta colorization.
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Last edited by janos666; 11-26-2019 at 04:15 AM.
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post #3648 of 3665 Old 11-26-2019, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by theMule View Post
I've managed to reverse engineer most of the protocol.
...
I'll post here once this is ready for general use (as a standalone command line tool for DDC reset and LUT uploads to start with).
Amazing! I replied in that thread.

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I eventually worked out how to do this (Calibrate the HDR10/HLG mode with DisplayCAL):
Thanks!!! Although I have some questions below.

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1: Send fake HDR10 signal (HDFury or NVAPI), reset the picture mode
2: measure a small test chart with DisplayCAL (I used 65 linear gray steps + R,G,B at 100%) and create an XYZ cLUT profile
- err, can you upload the test chart?
- btw, does DisplayCal BFI? If so, what settings did you use for that?

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3: create an AutoDesk/Kodak 3DLUT (don't use the LG preset for CalMAN) for Rec2020 and gamma 2.2 targets (D65 is implied by Rec2020), 0-255 input, 0-255 output, 10bit input, 12bit output, 33x33x33 for Alpha9, 16x16x16 for Alpha7
- isn't there a 17x17x17 option for alpha7?
- "0-255 input, 0-255 output" : what was the PC output setting? RGB Full 12 bit? If so, then will the result be still usable with the internal apps (e.g. Amazon) with Low Black Level? (I hope so )

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The same thing applies to SDR, except you obviously should not send HDR10 signal for profiling and you should (optionally) set the Contrast from 85 to 100
Cheers, I think we will need a big patch set with BFI for this.
Personally I don't like the idea to modify the Brightness/Contrast controls if it's not absolutely necessary: I prefer to profile the native response of the display.

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So far this DisplayCAL method gives me the subjectively best looking result in HDR10 with the least amount of gradient banding or magenta colorization.
Wow! I'm hardly waiting to try this out!
So, do you see any difference in the magenta colorization? (You had the least amount out of 3 of us.)

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post #3649 of 3665 Old 11-26-2019, 06:38 AM
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- err, can you upload the test chart?


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- btw, does DisplayCal BFI? If so, what settings did you use for that?
No. It could be done (by adding a fixed number of black patches and choosing a favorable sorting method or even manually in excel/netepad, etc) but I choose not to. Dispread finishes within two minutes or so and the same patch never remains on screen for more than a few seconds (depending on how dark it is) and a drastically different patch follows it (note the selected sorting method). Thus, I see no need to fight panel drift with this test chart (especially in SDR mode with low OLED Light). Bigger charts would be different, of course.

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- isn't there a 17x17x17 option for alpha7?
Ah, yes, it's always an odd number. I edited my post. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
- "0-255 input, 0-255 output" : what was the PC output setting? RGB Full 12 bit? If so, then will the result be still usable with the internal apps (e.g. Amazon) with Low Black Level? (I hope so )
Personally I don't like the idea to modify the Brightness/Contrast controls if it's not absolutely necessary: I prefer to profile the native response of the display.
Well... As much as I understand, the panel and the calibration LUTs (1D and 3D) work with 0-1023 RGB (10bit panel interface, 10bit LUT intervals). So, I think it's best to profile/calibrate with Full RGB if you wish to measure and correct the panel response (with the least amount of conversion losses/distortions, if any). Unless you want to try and take the internal conversion errors (if any) into account (like those YCC->RGB examples from @ConnecTEDDD).
My personal opinion always was that calibration should never try to account for external errors (take the example of an old belief that "a TV shall be calibrated with the user's own Blu-Ray player" ... Yeah, what if the manufacturer fixes any player errors with a firmware update or the faulty player is replaced...? What if multiple source devices are used? And then the old slider-based controls couldn't possibly fix 3D errors anyways, neither internal, nor external. I will calibrate the TV and the users should thank me for letting them realize if the player was faulty and then they shall replace it. Period.). This situation is not as straight-forward since these errors are external to the panel+LUTs but internal to the TV as a whole and a 3DLUT is theoretically able to fix "any" such errors (save for precision loss, aka banding) like drifted tone response (and who knows what else might happens there).
So, if you work with various input formats and you either can't or just don't want to calibrate different picture modes for different formats, I think you should calibrate with Full RGB. This way you calibrated the panel and you live with the internal errors the TV happens to throw at itself, hoping LG might fix them one day (and your calibration will still be valid, now for all formats). Or, if you know your main concern is one specific format (say, YCC from a BD player) then sure, use that for profiling/calibration.
Steering back to the question of the internal player: Do we even know if it passes YCC or Limited RGB to the parts of the pipeline which are shared between internal and external sources? Did anyone check if the internal sources (regardless of their format) are affected by the same tone-response drift as HDMI sources (or this problem is isolated to HDMI)?

The steps above won't change much depending on the input format you pick for profiling/calibration, all you need is matching TV settings:
- with Contrast=85, HDMI BL: Low maps input 64 to internal 0 and input 960 to internal 960, High maps input 0 to internal 0 and input 1023 to internal 960
* I think you see why this is not ideal: the internal 961-1023 range is never measured, so even though the WTW/superwhite range is available, it's not calibrated. This is why CalMAN has those weird 16-255 LG SDR patterns which need WTW-capable pattern generators.
- with Contrast = 100, the lower points don't change but Low maps input 960 to internal 1023 and High maps input 1023 to internal 1023
* From the above, you can probably see that it's possible to profile/calibrate the full internal range with 16-235 or 0-255 patterns only when you set Contrast=100 and the latter (0-255 patterns) is the most "direct" way of doing it (Full RGB input theoretically needs zero internal level conversions --- although we know there is at least one back-and-forth [RGB->YCC->RGB] conversion inside, we can hope that those use the same maths and constants in and out, so it should be mostly lossless, whereas a one-way conversion might bears the errors if the conversion is stupid).
Now, of course you can always say that WTW is not important and thus it can be left unprofile/uncalibrated. And I agree. On the other hand, why not calibrate it if you leave it available (calibrate with 100 and revert to 85) or better yet why not just use it (set to 100 and keep at 100)? The default Contrast=85 is not a "no-op", it compresses the actually useful input range into a limited portion of the internal range to allow for WTW/superwhite in SDR (I think this actually limits the effective gradation precision of the TV, wastes the upper end of the dynamic range in the digital domain of the processor). The HDR default is 100 because there is no room for WTW/superwhite when you need every bit of limunance you can get. The only reason to revert the SDR Contrast to 85 is that ABL tends to be more aggressive with higher contrast + lower OLED Light combinations. But even then, 85 is not mandatory. You can just lower it as much as you need to avoid the ABL. The true "bypass" for standard material (16-235 or 0-255 but not 16-255) is 100, not 85. 85 is the right number for 236-255 and serves non other purpose than WTW allowance. It's just a confusing decision by LG (to support WTW in SDR by default but also allow to "repurpose"/clip it).

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Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
Cheers, I think we will need a big patch set with BFI for this.
It's always the same trade-off: bigger patch sets provide more useful samples but longer measurement times result in more panel(/sensor) drifts.
Another issue to consider is that a CMS can usually understand a "minimalistic" patch set, like my example above. It will interpolate the only sanely imaginable 3D space from the corner points. But if you start feeding it with a limited number of random patches which don't exactly fall in line with the basic expectations (e.g. not resembling a perfectly well behaved R,G,B device) then you can easily end up with crazy results: the entire 3D volume will be assumed to have a morphed shape suggested by those few noisy/outlier points. Thus, if you start going big, sometimes you really have to go BIG and provide sufficient data for the CMS to make a fairly faithful model of the non-standard display response (with enough data to decide what's an outlier or noisy point and what looks like a real, consistent non-linearity spanning though the color volume like a tide...). So it's usually either as few as necessary or as much as you can afford (from your time or IR/BI/drift considerations).
Of course this char could probably be tweaked to provide somewhat better results while still keeping it "HDR compatible" (still fairly small). But I don't see the need as long as it provides a result within acceptable tolerance. And I tried to produce a calibration result comparable to CalMAN's iterative 1DLUT + matrix based 3DLUT, nothing more (especially not for HDR). You can probably go big in SDR but we know that it's impossible in HDR due to the huge panel drifts.

I accidentally lost the validation report of the HDR mode (it's very tricky to work in HDR with DisplayCAL and had to repeat/doublecheck some things during the trial run) but you can get a basic idea about the results in the SDR report (HDR is obviously worse but comparable to this).


(Mind the report settings: the Absolute box is ticked, so white balance is validated against D65 from the synthetic Rec709_g2.2 profile, not the assumed 6400K and not against the display's temporary ICM profile used for the 3DLUT generation. The luminance target was overshot because I didn't revert the Contrast from 100 to 85.)
These are mostly equal or somewhat better numbers than what I got from validating the roughly 1 month old CalMAN calibration (1DLUT + matrix 3DLUT), grayscale included. Note that the ordering of the patch sets were different between profiling and validation.
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continuing with my calibration from the MS COOl, WB D65 objective, I get better results by raising the blue of the RGB low pass one point. Default: R - 64 G- 64 B -. 64. Now: R-64 G- 64 B-65. Any problem with this ????? I get better results and checking with patterns does not affect black. Thank you.
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post #3651 of 3665 Old 11-30-2019, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Norlig View Post
I do have a datacolor Spyder5 Pro (with provided software) that I used on my Computer monitors, but when I tried that on the TV, it looks way worse and it thinks Gamma is 1.6.

Calibration on and Calibration off
But I cant use this on a TV I think, due to the TV's inability to keep the brightness the same if the entire screen is white, or if a smaller point is white, and the softwrae is unable to handle that.

It also seems like the sensor doesnt pick up that I change the saturation of Red (the red bar in the measuring image doesnt go up) , even though I can see on the screen that the bar changes its own red color.
Hi, what source you are using to watch your movies, are you using your PC with software player or a stand-alone player, ...or you watch from TV's USB?

For a calibration software you can use HCFR or LightSpace ZRO, both support your meter, not use the software Datacolor supply.

You will need about 10% sized window patterns, not full fields.

The enhancements are explained to the Calibration Notes here. You will find a lot of advanced info also. (set Peak Brightness to OFF also)

Some other instructions about manual calibration are available there.

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
Meters: JETI Specbos 1211, Klein K-10A, i1PRO2, i1PRO, SpectraCAL C6, i1D3, C5

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro Ferreres Gordillo View Post
If I want to calibrate to D65 from the service menu with the COOL preset, I must set the red to 192 and adjust by lowering blue and green until the correct coordinates are reached. This will only affect COOL and not the rest of the average, warm WB ... I have calibrated from the MS with the warm preset, it will be enough to copy the RGB values ​​to COOL mode and it is the same but it will only affect the Cool preset. I will return the default values ​​to warm and that's it. Please, I understood correctly. Thank you .
Hi, the adjustments of Warm/Medium seems that they are affect other color temp modes, see there: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post58456572

Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Disk Free Version for Free Calibration Software: LightSpace DPS / CalMAN ColorChecker / HCFR
S/W: LightSpace CMS, SpaceMan ICC, SpaceMatch DCM, CalMAN 5, CalMAN RGB, ChromaPure, ControlCAL
V/P: eeColor 3D LUT Box - P/G: DVDO AVLab TPG
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I've managed to reverse engineer most of the protocol. See https://hub.displaycal.net/forums/reply/21190/ with more details and github links.

I'll post here once this is ready for general use (as a standalone command line tool for DDC reset and LUT uploads to start with).

Appreciated that this functionality is available with Calman and DeviceControl with LG templates, but this is a free/open source alternative.

This is ready for broader testing now. https://github.com/bendavid/aiopylgtv

I've started a new thread at https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...t-uploads.html
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Is there a simple method to do a 2 point calibration for HDR10 on a 2018 LG B8?

I have Calman Home, Spears and Munsil UHD, i1 Display Pro, laptop, and Dolby Vision / HDR10 patterns on USB.

I would like to simply know which patterns to read for a high point reading, and for the low point reading.

Thank you.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark-007 View Post
Is there a simple method to do a 2 point calibration for HDR10 on a 2018 LG B8?

I have Calman Home, Spears and Munsil UHD, i1 Display Pro, laptop, and Dolby Vision / HDR10 patterns on USB.

I would like to simply know which patterns to read for a high point reading, and for the low point reading.

Thank you.


Use the 100% 10% area white HDR pattern on the S&M disc. Only leave it up for a few seconds to take a measurement then bring it down so it doesn’t sit there.

Adjust the HDR gain controls, Measure again and repeat.

I usually recommend people don’t touch the RGB low control, but others may disagree with me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark-007 View Post
Is there a simple method to do a 2 point calibration for HDR10 on a 2018 LG B8?

I have Calman Home, Spears and Munsil UHD, i1 Display Pro, laptop, and Dolby Vision / HDR10 patterns on USB.

I would like to simply know which patterns to read for a high point reading, and for the low point reading.

Thank you.


Use the 100% 10% area white HDR pattern on the S&M disc. Only leave it up for a few seconds to take a measurement then bring it down so it doesn’️t sit there.

Adjust the HDR gain controls, Measure again and repeat.

I usually recommend people don’️t touch the RGB low control, but others may disagree with me.
Thank you. Will update with the results.

Really appreciate your help.

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post #3657 of 3665 Old 12-03-2019, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post

Use the 100% 10% area white HDR pattern on the S&M disc. Only leave it up for a few seconds to take a measurement then bring it down so it doesn’️t sit there.

Adjust the HDR gain controls, Measure again and repeat.

I usually recommend people don’️t touch the RGB low control, but others may disagree with me.
Worked. I was aiming for the Dolby white point. 308 .313 since it came out so well targeting in SDR Calman Autocal.

I used S&M which has a nice quick skip to 15% gray, and got the white point where I wanted it. I also backed the OLED light down to 95 to max the nits at 700.

Final adjustment was -20 G, -1 B, 0 R Gain.

I copied this offset to both Cinema HDR and Dolby Cinema HDR and I'm happy with the results.

Until I get that Video Forge anyways. 🙂
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post

I usually recommend people don’t touch the RGB low controe HDR pattern on the S&M disc. Only leave it up for a few seconds to take a measurement then bring it down so it doesn’t sit there.

Adjust the HDR gain controls, Measure again and repeat.l, but others may disagree with me.
I agree, I never touch the RGB Low unless the set is out of spec and needs a small adjustment.

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I wonder again and again, what is the difference to adjust gamma, between using the 20-point brightness controls and using the RGB. Is it the same or do they behave differently? Many thanks friends.
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post #3660 of 3665 Old Yesterday, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I wonder again and again, what is the difference to adjust gamma, between using the 20-point brightness controls and using the RGB. Is it the same or do they behave differently? Many thanks friends.
The 2pt RGB controls make course adjustments and the 20 pt make fine adjustments. They are doing the same function. The problem with the 2pt is since the adjustments are course, you can introduce artifacts when adjusting the 2pt low. When adjusting gamma you want to fine tune as much of the gray scale as you can to make sure the gamma is correct from >0 to 100%

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