Originally Posted by Nanekiu
I just got my LG C9, this is my first time calibrating a tv so i have some questions:
do you guys think a i1d3 pro will be enough for gamma/3DLUT calibration?,
Is using the service menu for white balance pre calibration better than the user menu?
Does the 3DLUT also take care of correcting gamma, and also what's the most correct EDR/spectral correction file, i heard that the one in HFCR/lightspace was taken with Rec709 gamut emulation mode, or is that outdated info?
I tried to measure the whitepoint of warm2 using displaycal, and the WOLED correction but I'm unsure what observer i should use, if i use the juss vodd one then it reports 6100k 0.3dE in warm2, but even if it's closest to D65, to my eyes it looks greenish, and not really neutral, do i need to target a alternate whitepoint, i do have a PC monitor that has been used with a Spectraval 1511 CCSS correction file, so would visually matching the whitepoint be better?
Also for last i kinda want to try out lightspace software to create a 3DLUT with gamma correction but without white-point correction as most likely visually matching the whitepoint to my refernce monitor will be better in my case, what's usually the best configuration/settings in that case?
For the gamma calibration there's not really much i need to do, there's only that spike in near black that's at 2.5 gamma, and maybe bring the RGB balance even closer if possible.
The TV is relatively very new with probably less than 20 hours real screen time with most being a black background, i kinda want to have it professionally calibrated but i heard that the TV should be broken in to around 200-300 hours with actual content playing on it, so i thought i could probably do a DIY calibration before that.
The other thing is when calibrating what colorspace should i do it in, or does that not matter as depending if it's in pc mode, or if I'm sending RGB Full/limited, or ycbcr limited, i get more, or less banding with RGB full being the worst, and ycbcr limited 8 bit being the best (for some reason sending 4:2:2 10-12 bit has excessive banding).
To be honest, if you really are planning on having it professionally calibrated at some point in the near future, then selecting one of the ISF modes, setting your OLED light to your preferred output and disabling all processing is going to give you a pretty good and fairly accurate image straight out of the box.
But based on your questions, hopefully some of the following will help.
The i1d3 is perfectly fine for calibrating OLED's. The WRGB OLED EDR that is currently floating around and being discussed a lot recently was created specifically for LightSpace but does apparently work across all the other software. I'm not sure if that is the one that has been added to HCFR, but it was created by X-Rite themselves using data supplied by FSI & Light Illusion. You can be assured that they would have done this correctly and anyone saying otherwise is spreading misinformation. If using it gives you a green tint to your whites then you may be better visually matching to achieve an alternate white point and measuring it's coordinates with the EDR in place. Or you could try the alternate white point that D-Nice has provided in these threads. You only have to look in the last 2 pages to find that, and with D-Nice being one of the most respected calibrators around, you can be certain that any advice he gives on the matter is true and accurate.
If you are determined to give it a go yourself first, although this is technically the 2019 LG OLED Calibration thread, it is primarily focused around using CalMAN software for calibrations. So if using CalMAN (with CalMAN Home being the cheapest license level), the Service Menu White Balance doesn't make any difference as during AutoCal the Full DDC Reset bypasses SM WB values during 1D LUT creation. You can use any alternate white point you like in setting the parameters at the beginning of the workflow.
Using LightSpace, there is some benefit to doing the SM WB first if you are skipping the 1D LUT, but it is not a requirement and I personally wouldn't recommend it to first time users anyway. I recently saw another post in the C9 thread of a user poking around in the SM where he accidentally changed something and screwed up the sound on his TV. You can use your alternate white point in generation of the LUT prior to upload to the TV, but for further LightSpace recommendations you'd be better served checking out this
thread for more instructions. Be aware that you'd need a paid license there too for LUT generation. LightSpace HTL would fit your needs.
You could also use DisplayCAL for LUT creation, but I have never used that software so could not advise on how to proceed there.
All methods to calibrate will correct for White Balance, Gamma and Colour. The question of RGB Full/Limited vs YCbCr etc. is really dependant on what you will be using for pattern generation. Using the C9 iTPG this becomes a non issue as the patterns are generated internally and you set your pattern range within the software. Using the RPi PGenerator for example, you have to use RGB Full and use parameters in the software to decide the pattern range.