2019 LG OLED Calibration and User Settings (No price talk) - Page 51 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1501 of 1518 Old 02-03-2020, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by pazman2000 View Post
Can anyone experienced in HCFR calibrations
Help me a little please.
My just about to calibrated my 65c9 , I have calibrated several oleds in the past but chromapure .
I dont have that software anymore so going with free calibration HCFR software .
I was wondering is there a WRGB EDR file worth using in this last version ?
If not were can I get one for it ?
In preference, general settings dynamic iris latency is 300 , should inchmage this ?
And do I use the black frame insertion of so at what frequency?

Cheers guys

All done now, there was very little to do with SDR with average dE 2.4 .
I that down to 0.5 and HDR was not worth adjusting it was so accurate.
Whites are very clean bright with Chad white point.

Peak light out put was 790 nits at 10% window which I was very happy with
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post #1502 of 1518 Old 02-07-2020, 10:15 AM
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What window size are you guys using when calibrating peak luminance in SDR, 10% ?



Also here's another whitepoint people can try with a i1d3 that i perceptually matched (as close as possible) to a 94% DCI-P3 VA monitor that has been perfectly calibrated to 6504K using a spectraval 1511, using this whitepoint 0.3164 0.3162 the center of the C9 looks almost indistinguishable from the VA monitor (YMMV as all eyes see different), the right/left sides do look different though but i think that's due to tinting/AR coating.
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post #1503 of 1518 Old 02-10-2020, 01:30 PM
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Is it recommended to apply the calibration to all the other inputs or is this unnecessary? This is on the Photos/Videos app on the LG C9 using CalMAN for LG w/ i1Display Pro.
Thank you.
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post #1504 of 1518 Old 02-10-2020, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nanekiu View Post
What window size are you guys using when calibrating peak luminance in SDR, 10% ?







Also here's another whitepoint people can try with a i1d3 that i perceptually matched (as close as possible) to a 94% DCI-P3 VA monitor that has been perfectly calibrated to 6504K using a spectraval 1511, using this whitepoint 0.3164 0.3162 the center of the C9 looks almost indistinguishable from the VA monitor (YMMV as all eyes see different), the right/left sides do look different though but i think that's due to tinting/AR coating.
10% has always been my understanding.

Did you also try D-Nice's and default D65 wp before this?

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post #1505 of 1518 Old 02-12-2020, 01:03 PM
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Going to buy the 55 C9 this Friday. My current setup is a 8 year old Vizio 55", a Motorola DCX700 STB, a SONOS beam and a Samsung BR DVD player.


Right now, I control STB and TV power, SONOS volume through the STB remote, and change channels through the STB remote.
I use the Samsung Remote for watching a DVD.



My question is: can I use the LG magic remote to control all these devices or should I just program the power button on the STB remote for the LG.


Thanks
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post #1506 of 1518 Old 02-12-2020, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster45 View Post
Going to buy the 55 C9 this Friday. My current setup is a 8 year old Vizio 55", a Motorola DCX700 STB, a SONOS beam and a Samsung BR DVD player.


Right now, I control STB and TV power, SONOS volume through the STB remote, and change channels through the STB remote.
I use the Samsung Remote for watching a DVD.



My question is: can I use the LG magic remote to control all these devices or should I just program the power button on the STB remote for the LG.


Thanks


This is the calibration thread. I would suggest posting in the owners thread.

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post #1507 of 1518 Old 02-12-2020, 02:23 PM
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This is the calibration thread. I would suggest posting in the owners thread.
Sorry my bad
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post #1508 of 1518 Old 02-13-2020, 02:22 PM
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after some trouble getting the broke c9 replaced, i have one on the way.

been spending time reading all the c9 threads.

thanks guys
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post #1509 of 1518 Old 02-14-2020, 06:58 AM
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Just installed the latest Calman, and running a new calibration on my C9 with an i1 Display Pro.

I seem to recall you could set the HDR calibration to insert a grey image every x number of seconds, for y amount of time. That doesn’t seem available in the latest version of Calman - does it do it automatically now?

Apologies, can’t remember the technical name for it....!


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post #1510 of 1518 Old Yesterday, 10:49 AM
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hello,

i have a question about panel aging.

i read that the voltage sent to the pixels is adjusted as the panel is used.

this requires turning off the tv to allow changes in voltage to happen when it is turned back on.

so, is it safe to run the panel with slides 24 hours a day for 8-9 days to get to 200 hours?

i had a panel fail at about 60 hours running it 24 hours a day non stop.
(a vertical row died)

thanks for your opinions.

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post #1511 of 1518 Old Yesterday, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalWldLif View Post
hello,

i have a question about panel aging.

i read that the voltage sent to the pixels is adjusted as the panel is used.

this requires turning off the tv to allow changes in voltage to happen when it is turned back on.

so, is it safe to run the panel with slides 24 hours a day for 8-9 days to get to 200 hours?
I don't know about "safe", but it is a very very bad idea to do this!

When a panel is new, it changes a LOT. But if you are preventing it from doing its gentle daily compensation cycles, you are interfering with this process. Many people have some "banding" which clears up on its own. By blocking the compensation cycles, you are blocking the TV from healing itself.

It's not a plasma, you do not need to run slides on it for the first 200 hours. Watching normal content on it for the first 200 hours before any calibration is a good idea otherwise you would have to re-do to the calibration.

After every 4 hours of power-on time, you should put the TV into standby, with the power still to the TV, and wait for it to do a gentle compensation cycle. There's no need to run slides. Just watch a mixture of content, and always use standby when you finish for the day.

Quote:
i had a panel fail at about 60 hours running it 24 hours a day non stop.
(a vertical row died)
I don't see any evidence that those two things are linked. But it's a very bad idea to run it for 200 hours non-stop.
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post #1512 of 1518 Old Yesterday, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarleyUK View Post
Just installed the latest Calman, and running a new calibration on my C9 with an i1 Display Pro.

I seem to recall you could set the HDR calibration to insert a grey image every x number of seconds, for y amount of time. That doesn’t seem available in the latest version of Calman - does it do it automatically now?

Apologies, can’t remember the technical name for it....!
It's called Pattern Insertion and it's in the Settings menu - can be used for any kind of calibration. It's not part of any Workflow.

You set 3 values here:
how often it inserts one of these patterns,
how long for each time, and
how dark to make the screen.



HTH
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post #1513 of 1518 Old Yesterday, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalWldLif View Post
hello,

i have a question about panel aging.

i read that the voltage sent to the pixels is adjusted as the panel is used.

this requires turning off the tv to allow changes in voltage to happen when it is turned back on.

so, is it safe to run the panel with slides 24 hours a day for 8-9 days to get to 200 hours?

i had a panel fail at about 60 hours running it 24 hours a day non stop.
(a vertical row died)

thanks for your opinions.
It is "safe". I'll respond in further detail to @mrtickleuk post.

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post #1514 of 1518 Old Yesterday, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
I don't know about "safe", but it is a very very bad idea to do this!

When a panel is new, it changes a LOT. But if you are preventing it from doing its gentle daily compensation cycles, you are interfering with this process. Many people have some "banding" which clears up on its own. By blocking the compensation cycles, you are blocking the TV from healing itself.

It's not a plasma, you do not need to run slides on it for the first 200 hours. Watching normal content on it for the first 200 hours before any calibration is a good idea otherwise you would have to re-do to the calibration.

After every 4 hours of power-on time, you should put the TV into standby, with the power still to the TV, and wait for it to do a gentle compensation cycle. There's no need to run slides. Just watch a mixture of content, and always use standby when you finish for the day.



I don't see any evidence that those two things are linked. But it's a very bad idea to run it for 200 hours non-stop.
It is "safe" to operate the television for extended periods at any time, even when new. By safe, I mean it does not compromise the health of the televison and when new, is a useful technique to ready the set for calibration that much sooner. I know this to be case because,

(a) more than one professional calibrator has indicated (to me) it is. Granted, a pro calibrator could be biased to actually entice a person to do this, but assume for the moment that is not the case.

(b) more than one electronic repair shops have told me it is safe to leave the set on 20 plus hours a day

(c) I personally have left the set while brand new on 20 plus hours a day and have had no issues.

To your excellent point about the compensation cycles, this is precisely why you do not want to run the set 24/7 but instead run it 20 hours and then turn it off for a few hours. So that the compensation cycle runs.

Furthermore, at the beginning of the break in process and at the end, one should run the more aggressive pixel refresh, which I'm told equalizes the voltage among all the pixels. Granted, this is not something to do often, but twice (once before, once after break in) is fine (so say pro calibrators).

As to the material to use, a "combination" of material is best. The primary material can be the break in slides. Other material can be normal television. Some content should be HDR where the OLED light is 100, however, the majority of the 20 hours should be with an OLED light setting at 30, so as to not overtax the television.

I can go into even further granularity in this regard, but you get the idea. And, by all means you and/or others are welcome to disagree. But the bottom line is, if one intends to have their television calibrated and wants to wait the 300 hours (not 200) and intends to just use normal viewing habits, it will be months before you can do it, when there really isn't any need to wait that long
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post #1515 of 1518 Old Today, 11:32 AM
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HDR and DV "Cinema Home"

Would someone please confirm what I think I understand from reading the forums? These were from early posts, so not sure how correct they are...

1) Once both DV and HDR "Cinema" Modes have been calibrated, both HDR and DV "Cinema Home" modes are automatically generated (i.e. "calibrated") as well (as non-accurate "bright room" modes) based on the "Cinema" calibrations?

2) I have also read in the forums that DV "Cinema Home" uses the ambient light sensor, but I have not seen this for HDR "Cinema Home". Is this true, or is this just determined by the AI Brightness setting in either case?

Thanks!

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post #1516 of 1518 Old Today, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by rlhn View Post
Would someone please confirm what I think I understand from reading the forums? These were from early posts, so not sure how correct they are...

1) Once both DV and HDR "Cinema" Modes have been calibrated, both HDR and DV "Cinema Home" modes are automatically generated (i.e. "calibrated") as well (as non-accurate "bright room" modes) based on the "Cinema" calibrations?
No, sorry. The only modes which share calibration settings are the "HDR" modes.
So
"HDR Cinema" means "HDR10 Cinema" and "HLG Cinema", both sharing the calibration.
"HDR Cinema Home" means "HDR10 Cinema Home" and "HLG Cinema Home", both sharing the calibration.

There is no cross-pollination of user settings between those two mode above, or Dolby Vision Cinema / Dolby Vision Cinema Home.

One thing is shared, which is the Service Menu's underlying factory 2pt/10pt calibrations for the Cool/Medium/Warm1/2/3 colour temperatures.
These are shared between SDR and HDR10/HLG and Dolby Vision, (all 3!). If you do not perform a full calibration using a 1DLUT. If you do, you get a customised calibration just for that one mode, and it's then "detached" from the others.

Quote:
2) I have also read in the forums that DV "Cinema Home" uses the ambient light sensor, but I have not seen this for HDR "Cinema Home". Is this true, or is this just determined by the AI Brightness setting in either case?
I don't think it is true, no. Both that any Dolby mode uses the ambient light sensor, and that the AI Brightness setting does anything in any Dolby mode. But I have a C8 with no AI Brightness setting, so I'll defer to the C9 owners.

For my C8, the Ambient light sensor is only used for HLG modes, and if you have turned on "Energy Saving=Auto" at the top-level Picture menu (above all the modes), as far as I know. I think! HTH

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post #1517 of 1518 Old Today, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hal250 View Post
It is "safe" to operate the television for extended periods at any time, even when new. By safe, I mean it does not compromise the health of the televison and when new, is a useful technique to ready the set for calibration that much sooner. I know this to be case because,

(a) more than one professional calibrator has indicated (to me) it is. Granted, a pro calibrator could be biased to actually entice a person to do this, but assume for the moment that is not the case.

(b) more than one electronic repair shops have told me it is safe to leave the set on 20 plus hours a day

(c) I personally have left the set while brand new on 20 plus hours a day and have had no issues.

To your excellent point about the compensation cycles, this is precisely why you do not want to run the set 24/7 but instead run it 20 hours and then turn it off for a few hours. So that the compensation cycle runs.

Furthermore, at the beginning of the break in process and at the end, one should run the more aggressive pixel refresh, which I'm told equalizes the voltage among all the pixels. Granted, this is not something to do often, but twice (once before, once after break in) is fine (so say pro calibrators).

As to the material to use, a "combination" of material is best. The primary material can be the break in slides. Other material can be normal television. Some content should be HDR where the OLED light is 100, however, the majority of the 20 hours should be with an OLED light setting at 30, so as to not overtax the television.

I can go into even further granularity in this regard, but you get the idea. And, by all means you and/or others are welcome to disagree. But the bottom line is, if one intends to have their television calibrated and wants to wait the 300 hours (not 200) and intends to just use normal viewing habits, it will be months before you can do it, when there really isn't any need to wait that long
ok. thank you.
only doing 20 a day and 4 off would be a problem.
i will work it out.

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post #1518 of 1518 Old Today, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CalWldLif View Post
ok. thank you.
only doing 20 a day and 4 off would be a problem.
i will work it out.
It's very simple. This is what I do.

First, make sure all energy saving modes, and auto power off modes are disabled.

Turn it on in the morning and leave it playing normal content, go to work or just go about you daily business as you would any other day.

Get home in the evening, turn it off for 10 - 15 minutes to let it run a compensation cycle.

Turn it back on, watch you favourite TV shows, enjoy a movie, just use it as you normally would of an evening and just before bed, turn it off for 10 - 15 minutes to run another cycle.

Turn it on playing normal content and go to bed. Wake in the morning, turn it off for 10 - 15 minutes to run yet another compensation cycle, then turn it on and go to work............

This way you are running 20+ hrs a day, and it is getting it's full dose of automatic compensation cycles.

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