2019 LG OLED Calibration and User Settings (No price talk) - Page 54 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1591 of 1656 Old 03-23-2020, 10:27 AM
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Hi Guys, haven't posted here for a long time.
Is the latest calman r3 has improve calibration, is it worth recalibrating my c9?


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post #1592 of 1656 Old 03-25-2020, 05:08 AM
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Did anyone carry out any tests regarding the iTPG? What kind of HDMI input format (YCC, Limited-/Full-RGB) is it really compatible with, if any? (Is there even still some difference between those formats, like in earlier years?)
And on that note, what's passed down by the WebOS apps (like Netflix, etc)?

I was recently made aware VRR (variable refresh rate) mode (G-Sync Compatible in my case) has a different Tone Response Curve compared to the regular fixed refresh rate mode. While I conducted some measurements to check that, I accidentally realized that my iTPG calibration also seems to be off when I validate it though HDMI with Full-RGB and VRR inactive (ALLM and thus G-Sync OFF). I expected it to be a perfect match since the iTPG is also said to work in Full-RGB (although it obviously cuts some processing which is applied to HDMI inputs but the TV is said to convert any and all input formats into Full-RGB at some point anyways, so Full-RGB input should be the most straight-foward, least distorted [if any distortion happens at all] I guess). However, I can't be sure (yet, without further testes) if my iTPG calibration seems to be off (measured with ALLM and thus VRR / G-Sync not avalable) because an HDMI input with G-Sync was active during that calibration and even though the iTPG is not effected by some processing steps, the VRR mode could have been still engaged due to the active input, just like SDR/HDR/DV is set by the active input during iTPG calibration (so may be I effectively calibrated for VRR / G-Sync mode with the iTPG without realizing it). G-Sync makes dark grays brighter and I measured overly dark dark grays, so this theory could fit. Or there can be a drift between the iTPG and HDMI Full-RGB input (some LG rep. claimed the iTPG will simulate the YCC->RGB drift which is a crazy idea but hey... if they claim something like that, I can't be sure it's not true, even if that's some closed ward mental insanity level stuff...).

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post #1593 of 1656 Old 03-26-2020, 07:38 AM
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2019 LG OLED Calibration and User Settings (No price talk)

The TV should be receiving a limited range signal during calibration using the iTPG. That is probably your problem. You can then send the TV a full range signal after calibration is complete.

Tyler Pruitt - Technical Evangelist - for CalMAN

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post #1594 of 1656 Old 03-26-2020, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post
The TV should be receiving a limited range signal during calibration using the iTPG. That is probably your problem. You can then send the TV a full range signal after calibration is complete.
Hi Tyler, calman home lg sometime bug when checking the color at the end of the calibration and showing large error.
Anything i can do to fix this, its very frustrating ?

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post #1595 of 1656 Old 03-28-2020, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
When you are using internal 1D LUT features of LG (the service menu white balance settings are bypassed). The color temp you see at SM, are affect all TV modes (SDR/HDR/DV etc.).

When you are not using internal 1D LUT, then SM WB + normal menu WB, combined are used.

When you will upload only 3D LUT also, SM WB + normal menu WB, combined are used.

If you upload 1D + 3D LUT, SM/Normal Menu WB are bypassed.

The procedure for service crew is described more in older models SM manuals of TV's 2015/2016/2017. While I had them, as it was 2019 thread here, I have upload only the 2019 versions, but it has to do with process of service technicians.

For consumers/only expert users, its recommended instead of adjusting normal TV menu White Balance settings, to adjust only the White Balance values of color temperature from inside the TV's Service Menu only. The reason for that is because the normal menu White Balance settings combined with White Balance of Service Menu settings work as an offset from the native panel response, and when you have active two controls which are performing the same job, this can make the internal processing algorithm more complex, so it's a better idea one White Balance menu to be used only to adjust from native panel's response and not apply adjustments from both menus (normal TV + service) the same time. Performing only Service Menu White Balance adjustments to pre-cal 100% White only, it will provide cleaner picture with smoother gradations.

This procedure can be used from LightSpace or CalMAN user which will bypass doing 1D LUT profiling (with LightSpace ) or 1D LUT AutoCAL (with CalMAN), as we have find out that it provided better end results, visually but also proven with measurements.

For White Balance calibration using Service Menu, there is a setting 'Test Pattern' with '100IRE', '80IRE' and 'OFF' as options. The 'IRE' selections will display an internal generated full field pattern, but these patterns will bypass a lot of signal processing steps, we don't want this to happen, for that reason select 'OFF' and use a 100% White pattern with 10% window size generated from your HDMI input.

LG is still incorrectly naming the RGB Balance controls as 'IRE', a term which means voltage of the signal in analog world, as used in CRT's before 20 years. They should be renamed as '%' in digital world.

White Balance settings of 'Warm' in Service Menu will adjust the 'Warm 1, Warm 2 and Warm 3' preset of Normal TV Menu.

White Balance settings of 'Medium' in Service Menu will adjust the 'Medium and Warm 1' preset of Normal TV Menu.

White Balance settings of 'Cool' in Service Menu will adjust the 'Cool' preset of Normal TV Menu.

LG is pre-calibrating to their factory these service menu White Balance color temperature modes using a 80% Gray pattern with 6500K for 'Warm', 9300K for 'Medium' and 11000K for 'Cool'.
When you will adjust a specific color temperature mode from Service White Balance Menu, these adjustments will affect all Picture Presets with SDR, HDR and Dolby Vision modes, when you will select that specific color temperature mode from the normal TV OSD menu.

Adjustments of Service Menu White Balance Menu will be bypassed when you will use internal 1D LUT Reset or when you will upload a custom 1D LUT correction.



Use the EZ-ADJ button of Service Remote to access the LG OLED TV Service Menu, it will ask for a password, type '0413', navigate to '12. White Balance', and select the color temperature you want to adjust.

If you want to adjust for example the 'Medium' of Service Menu, start by setting the default 192 value to R-Gain, G-Gain and B-Gain and 64 value to R-Cut, G-Cut and B-Cut controls.



When R/G/B gain in the OSD is at 192 value, it means that the panel works at its Full Dynamic Range. In order to prevent saturation of Full Dynamic range and data, one of R/G/B channels need to be fixed at 192 value, for pre-calibrating the White Balance, lower only the other two channels.

To this menu, don't press the RESET button, it will delete the factory value stored to main board and it will display some letters with red letters to the main SM screen. (it will not harm the TV, just if you send the TV for repair, they can see that you deleted the factory values, where its used automated software and patch generation/meter to pre-cal the WB).

I have plan to update with picture about this, I will post a link.
I just ran across your post after having asked this very question around the values needed to get the TV back into a factory condition (will still have red NG in the in-start menu). Can you give a little more info about how to set up the meter and how to take the readings for each of the white point values using Calman home software?

Another user was kind of enough to get me started down this road and walked me through the process of setting D65 white point in Calman, lowering OLED panel brightness to 25-26 in the service menu, starting with 192/192/192 values and then backing them off to get a neutral white point reading, but I'm not sure how to configure Calman for the other white points needed.

Thanks.
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post #1596 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 03:00 AM
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I just ran across your post after having asked this very question around the values needed to get the TV back into a factory condition (will still have red NG in the in-start menu).
Hi, about NG notice, see there: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post58804578

When you change the SM WB values, it's not available any button to restore them to factory values.

Usually, users keep a note or take a still picture of the factory values before starting their adjustments.
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post #1597 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post
Hi, about NG notice, see there: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post58804578

When you change the SM WB values, it's not available any button to restore them to factory values.

Usually, users keep a note or take a still picture of the factory values before starting their adjustments.
Good to see you here, Ted. I know this is OT, but I hope you and yours stay safe.

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post #1598 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post
Another user was kind of enough to get me started down this road and walked me through the process of setting D65 white point in Calman, lowering OLED panel brightness to 25-26 in the service menu, starting with 192/192/192 values and then backing them off to get a neutral white point reading, but I'm not sure how to configure Calman for the other white points needed.
You need to create your own "Colour Space Targets" in Calman. (NB: I do not know if this is in Calman Home or not). Take the standard "D65, HD BT.709" which has the D65 white point,
and make a copy of it for the "Cool" Service Menu setting roughly 11000CCT.
and another copy for the "Medium" Service Menu setting 9300CCT.

Start in the Workflow Basic Options menu and press "New/Edit". Here are my finished set of 2 new ones marked:


You are then taken to Calman's "Colour Space Editor". Select "D65, HD BT.709" and press "Copy". it will make a duplicated called "Copy of D65, HD BT.709", so rename it. I called my first one "D93, HD BT.709".

Calman will automatically calculate the x and y co-ordinates for you, and then back to CCT, but NB there are roundings that happen in the conversion. So, to get it to "land" on 9300, I entered "9358" into the CCT box and pressed Tab. You need to experiment but to save you time, if you want to create Cool as 11,000 CCT, it was 11,219 in the box then tab.

(Aside: Perhaps this is a bug in calman. It's certainly very disconcerting that the number changes when you press Tab, and they don't agree with Bruce Lindbloom's calculator exactly.)



This is also the method to use other white points than D65, if you ever get into that stuff. You make a copy of D65 and then change x and y, and use that new colour space throughout.

HTH!

ps if you want to verify the conversions, see Bruce Lindbloom's excellent page here: http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index....alculator.html
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post #1599 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
You need to create your own "Colour Space Targets" in Calman. (NB: I do not know if this is in Calman Home or not). Take the standard "D65, HD BT.709" which has the D65 white point,
and make a copy of it for the "Cool" Service Menu setting roughly 11000CCT.
and another copy for the "Medium" Service Menu setting 9300CCT.

Start in the Workflow Basic Options menu and press "New/Edit". Here are my finished set of 2 new ones marked:


You are then taken to Calman's "Colour Space Editor". Select "D65, HD BT.709" and press "Copy". it will make a duplicated called "Copy of D65, HD BT.709", so rename it. I called my first one "D93, HD BT.709".

Calman will automatically calculate the x and y co-ordinates for you, and then back to CCT, but NB there are roundings that happen in the conversion. So, to get it to "land" on 9300, I entered "9358" into the CCT box and pressed Tab. You need to experiment but to save you time, if you want to create Cool as 11,000 CCT, it was 11,219 in the box then tab.

(Aside: Perhaps this is a bug in calman. It's certainly very disconcerting that the number changes when you press Tab, and they don't agree with Bruce Lindbloom's calculator exactly.)



This is also the method to use other white points than D65, if you ever get into that stuff. You make a copy of D65 and then change x and y, and use that new colour space throughout.

HTH!

ps if you want to verify the conversions, see Bruce Lindbloom's excellent page here: http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index....alculator.html
I will see if it's possible in Calman Home, thanks!
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post #1600 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 08:43 AM
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I will see if it's possible in Calman Home, thanks!
Be careful not to post your pre/post calibration results as there are some (or at least one) forum members that will indicate that this software did a poor job with the color calibration. Not helpful at all with postings like this.

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post #1601 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 09:43 AM
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Be careful not to post your pre/post calibration results as there are some (or at least one) forum members that will indicate that this software did a poor job with the color calibration. Not helpful at all with postings like this.
I'm not sure what you're referring to. But in case you're referring to this one, I suggest you read it again thoroughly. If you felt personally offended, I am sorry, I can assure you that this was not my intention.

Your warning not to post calibrations results is pretty inappropriate imo. That is exactly what this forum is for, share you results and learn sth. new / improve your results. But you should also be able to cope when someone makes a critical remark about your results.

Anyway, the values you attached in your post here are really not good. The change from an average dE value from 2.0 to 1.6 after a calibration can hardly be considered a noticeable improvement, especially if the max value even increases from 2.9 to 3.3.
Based on this data, my statement is therefore justified that for such an "improvement" the purchase of CalMAN (or any other calibration software) would not be worthwhile. However, this does not mean that you cannot achieve better results with this software or that dE values are the only important factor.
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I'm not sure what you're referring to. But in case you're referring to this one, I suggest you read it again thoroughly. If you felt personally offended, I am sorry, I can assure you that this was not my intention.

Your warning not to post calibrations results is pretty inappropriate imo. That is exactly what this forum is for, share you results and learn sth. new / improve your results. But you should also be able to cope when someone makes a critical remark about your results.

Anyway, the values you attached in your post here are really not good. The change from an average dE value from 2.0 to 1.6 after a calibration can hardly be considered a noticeable improvement, especially if the max value even increases from 2.9 to 3.3.
Based on this data, my statement is therefore justified that for such an "improvement" the purchase of CalMAN (or any other calibration software) would not be worthwhile. However, this does not mean that you cannot achieve better results with this software or that dE values are the only important factor.
I still maintain that the comments weren't helpful since there was no solutions specified, especially for the novice calibrator such as myself. I'm not sure I did it correctly for the SDR calibration? I chose "Raw XYZ" on Meter Mode for this SDR calibration but is that only selected for HDR and Dolby Vision calibrations? I remember Tyler indicating to use "Raw XYZ" if you have the i1 Display Pro but not sure if that only applies to HDR and Dolby Vision? Maybe I should have used "OLED White"? I'm also using the "OLEDFamily_20Jul12.edr" in place of the default one. I was also told to "set the white point to: x = 0.3126, y = 0.3266". I believe the rest of the calibration was done according to Tyler's SDR Calibration video.

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post #1603 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 11:27 AM
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I still maintain that the comments weren't helpful since there was no solutions specified, especially for the novice calibrator such as myself. I'm not sure I did it correctly for the SDR calibration? I chose "Raw XYZ" on Meter Mode for this SDR calibration but is that only selected for HDR and Dolby Vision calibrations? I remember Tyler indicating to use "Raw XYZ" if you have the i1 Display Pro but not sure if that only applies to HDR and Dolby Vision? Maybe I should have used "OLED White"? I'm also using the "OLEDFamily_20Jul12.edr" in place of the default one. I was also told to "set the white point to: x = 0.3126, y = 0.3266". I believe the rest of the calibration was done according to Tyler's SDR Calibration video.
Yes, Raw XYZ for all modes. That's what you use since you have an i1 Display Pro (that's what I use as well). If you have a C6 HDR2000 then you would select something different.

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post #1604 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 11:59 AM
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I still maintain that the comments weren't helpful since there was no solutions specified, especially for the novice calibrator such as myself.
You didn't really ask for help or how to improve your results. And if you didn't notice that the measured dE values are not that good, I would say that the comments were helpful. As long as you don't know that something is wrong, you can't solve the problem. Plus we went offtopic in that forum anyways, this is the right place to discuss calibration related stuff.

But let's stop this pointless discussion here.

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I'm not sure I did it correctly for the SDR calibration? I chose "Raw XYZ" on Meter Mode for this SDR calibration but is that only selected for HDR and Dolby Vision calibrations? I remember Tyler indicating to use "Raw XYZ" if you have the i1 Display Pro but not sure if that only applies to HDR and Dolby Vision? Maybe I should have used "OLED White"? I'm also using the "OLEDFamily_20Jul12.edr" in place of the default one. I was also told to "set the white point to: x = 0.3126, y = 0.3266". I believe the rest of the calibration was done according to Tyler's SDR Calibration video.
If you want to know if you did everything right during a calibration, you have to post all information about it. The exact meter used, software + version, picture mode, calibration settings, results etc.


For an i1D3 (Rev. A and B) you can either use "Raw XYZ" or the FSI EDR - just search the forums, there are plenty of posts about this topic. The better approach would be to use a spectro to create a profile for your i1D3+TV.

Generally it makes little sense to calibrate a display until it has been running for about 200 hours. Also make sure you warm up your TV before you start a calibration session, that you're doing it in a dark room and you position your meter properly.
Other recommended settings are to disable Logo Luminance Adjustment and TPC during the calibration.

I would not recommend messing with alternative white points until you've mastered the basics. How are you currently verifying your calibration results?
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I still maintain that the comments weren't helpful since there was no solutions specified, especially for the novice calibrator such as myself. I'm not sure I did it correctly for the SDR calibration? I chose "Raw XYZ" on Meter Mode for this SDR calibration but is that only selected for HDR and Dolby Vision calibrations? I remember Tyler indicating to use "Raw XYZ" if you have the i1 Display Pro but not sure if that only applies to HDR and Dolby Vision? Maybe I should have used "OLED White"? I'm also using the "OLEDFamily_20Jul12.edr" in place of the default one. I was also told to "set the white point to: x = 0.3126, y = 0.3266". I believe the rest of the calibration was done according to Tyler's SDR Calibration video.
Where did you get this white point?

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post #1606 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 12:38 PM
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Where did you get this white point?

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From another forum member and a posting that I read a while back.

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post #1607 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 12:47 PM
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...

Other recommended settings are to disable Logo Luminance Adjustment and TPC during the calibration.

I would not recommend messing with alternative white points until you've mastered the basics. How are you currently verifying your calibration results?
Not sure how to "disable Logo Luminance Admjustment and TPC" or verifying the results since that's not covered on the Tyler video? Also, would it help just to do the color calibration with more "picture points" such as running it for an hour or making it 1750 points (which I believe is around 2 hours?). I only did the suggested "Lighting LUT" calibration type suggested by Tyler which is around 15 minutes I believe.

Questions:

1. Can you skip the gray scale calibration and go directly to color space using the Calman Home software?
2. Can you run a 2-hour SDR movie instead of using the USB drive files in order to get a longer time frame to run the calibration? I know about the longer file that Tyler made but I'm wondering if I can bypass using the flash drive.

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post #1608 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 12:58 PM
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Yes, Raw XYZ for all modes. That's what you use since you have an i1 Display Pro (that's what I use as well). If you have a C6 HDR2000 then you would select something different.

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If that's true then my calibrations are wrong because, following the Calman tutorials (both the html versions and the youtube tutorial) I set to OLED White for the generic 'unlabeled' i1d3 Pro that Portrait sold me along with the Calman LG license.

If this is the case then Portrait needs to do a better job of differentiating. I mean, this is a meter that Portrait is selling with the software and I would imagine is the meter most home enthusiasts are purchasing.
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@jmpage2 If you have the OLED White option then you must have a different meter than me. I just have and option that says OLED and it's a different OLED type than these displays. I didn't buy my i1 Display Pro from CalMan either.

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post #1610 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
@jmpage2 If you have the OLED White option then you must have a different meter than me. I just have and option that says OLED and it's a different OLED type than these displays. I didn't buy my i1 Display Pro from CalMan either.

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Sorry yes OLED not OLED White. I have the $249 oem version i3d Pro meter Calman offers. Sounds like my meter has been in the wrong mode when I've been running Calman calibrations will need to do a little more work on this TV this evening.
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post #1611 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post
Sorry yes OLED not OLED White. I have the $249 oem version i3d Pro meter Calman offers. Sounds like my meter has been in the wrong mode when I've been running Calman calibrations will need to do a little more work on this TV this evening.
Ah, ok. Then yes, your case is the same as mine and with our meters it is recommended to use Raw XYZ. He mentions that in one of his videos. Ideally we should profile them but I can't afford to buy an i1 Pro 2 which I believe is the cheapest option to profile with.

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post #1612 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 02:33 PM
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Not sure how to "disable Logo Luminance Admjustment and TPC" or verifying the results since that's not covered on the Tyler video? Also, would it help just to do the color calibration with more "picture points" such as running it for an hour or making it 1750 points (which I believe is around 2 hours?). I only did the suggested "Lighting LUT" calibration type suggested by Tyler which is around 15 minutes I believe.
And now you start falling down the calibration rabbit hole, welcome to calibration wonderland!

See here and here for more info about calibration preparations.
And here for some info about the different LUT types.

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Questions:

1. Can you skip the gray scale calibration and go directly to color space using the Calman Home software?
That's what most people do with Lightspace: a simple SM WP calibration and no 1D LUT upload combined with a generated 3D LUT.
But to my understanding that's nothing you can do with CalMAN Home since the workflow relies on a 1D LUT.

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2. Can you run a 2-hour SDR movie instead of using the USB drive files in order to get a longer time frame to run the calibration? I know about the longer file that Tyler made but I'm wondering if I can bypass using the flash drive.
Afaik you could use any movie that puts your TV into the right mode (for AutoCal calibrations). But it won't get any easier than using an USB drive and the 10 hour video Tyler provided some time ago.
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Ah, ok. Then yes, your case is the same as mine and with our meters it is recommended to use Raw XYZ. He mentions that in one of his videos. Ideally we should profile them but I can't afford to buy an i1 Pro 2 which I believe is the cheapest option to profile with.

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Actually I'm a little irritated right now with Portrait. The meter probably started its life in XYZ mode and I dutifully changed it to OLED mode when both the video tutorial and the web "how to" made a point of showing it being changed to OLED mode.

From the tutorial;

Quote:
Plug your meter into a USB port on the computer and press the Find Meter button on the left
When your meter is connected, select your display type from the dropdown (this will vary by meter)
OLED: White-OLED (OLED (White) LG, Panasonic, FSI 2018 for C6 Meter)
.

So, Portrait sells a bundled i1d3 Pro OEM meter for use with Calman home but an't be troubled to specifically give the right settings for this meter in their materials and, what's more, go out of there way to point out in their tutorial/video to put it into OLED metering which will result in a final calibration that is off.

What's more, if you set OLED metering as I erroneously did and then re-start the software, re-connect the meter, etc., it will stay in OLED mode until you manually go and change it back to XYZ mode.

Sigh.

Thanks again for helping me catch this. After a few calibrations the PQ has been slightly "off" in the calibrations and this might explain it.

Also profuse thanks to @liberator72 who has been going out of his way to educate a newb. I think I owe that guy like 30 pints by now.
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Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post
Actually I'm a little irritated right now with Portrait. The meter probably started its life in XYZ mode and I dutifully changed it to OLED mode when both the video tutorial and the web "how to" made a point of showing it being changed to OLED mode.



From the tutorial;



.



So, Portrait sells a bundled i1d3 Pro OEM meter for use with Calman home but an't be troubled to specifically give the right settings for this meter in their materials and, what's more, go out of there way to point out in their tutorial/video to put it into OLED metering which will result in a final calibration that is off.



What's more, if you set OLED metering as I erroneously did and then re-start the software, re-connect the meter, etc., it will stay in OLED mode until you manually go and change it back to XYZ mode.



Sigh.



Thanks again for helping me catch this. After a few calibrations the PQ has been slightly "off" in the calibrations and this might explain it.



Also profuse thanks to @liberator72 who has been going out of his way to educate a newb. I think I owe that guy like 30 pints by now.
at the 4:25 mark he says to use Raw XYZ.

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And now you start falling down the calibration rabbit hole, welcome to calibration wonderland!
Indeed!

Quote:
That's what most people do with Lightspace: a simple SM WP calibration and no 1D LUT upload combined with a generated 3D LUT.
But to my understanding that's nothing you can do with CalMAN Home since the workflow relies on a 1D LUT.
Well I use the same workflow running on Calman Home Enthusiast and it's fine, it lets you skip the 1D LUT. You have to do/remember two things.
1. Do not ever do a "Reset DDC" when the workflow tries to get you to do it. That will lose the factory 1D LUT which you want to keep, and lock out the white balance controls in the menu.
2. Do not ever press the "Autocal" button on the Greyscale page of the workflow. That will immediately do what (1) does.

The rest is all fine! Just give it a try

Quote:
Afaik you could use any movie that puts your TV into the right mode (for AutoCal calibrations). But it won't get any easier than using an USB drive and the 10 hour video Tyler provided some time ago.
Good advice
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Indeed!



Well I use the same workflow running on Calman Home Enthusiast and it's fine, it lets you skip the 1D LUT. You have to do/remember two things.
1. Do not ever do a "Reset DDC" when the workflow tries to get you to do it. That will lose the factory 1D LUT which you want to keep, and lock out the white balance controls in the menu.
2. Do not ever press the "Autocal" button on the Greyscale page of the workflow. That will immediately do what (1) does.

The rest is all fine! Just give it a try



Good advice
So, from what I am understanding, this is just an alternative way to calibrate without software or what is the point of this?

I've been trying to follow this SM WP option and I am unclear. I know the basics on how to get to it and all, but there is a disconnect where I am not understanding everything needed to make the changes.

Are you adjusting from the 192 R/G/B while viewing an 80% patch generated from the tv itself or is this something I have to be connected to software to adjust?

In the end, if I have Calman Home, why would I want/need to do this?

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Originally Posted by jmpage2 View Post
Actually I'm a little irritated right now with Portrait. The meter probably started its life in XYZ mode and I dutifully changed it to OLED mode when both the video tutorial and the web "how to" made a point of showing it being changed to OLED mode.

...
Quote:
Originally Posted by beardontwalk123 View Post
https://youtu.be/t9ntP01MceQ at the 4:25 mark he says to use Raw XYZ.

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Beardonwalk123, I believe jmpage2 is right where Tyler doesn't say to use RAW XYZ on his SDR video but does say to use it in his HDR and DV videos. That's the reason I asked the question in the first place, it's not mentioned on the SDR video.

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post #1618 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 03:10 PM
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In the end, if I have Calman Home, why would I want/need to do this?
The short answer is if you are happy with your results you don't need to do this.

You don't even need to do it with when you do a 3D LUT only calibration only. It works only as giving a good baseline for the 3D LUT to work from. It's just an extra preparation step.

With AutoCal it is irrelevant anyway as it loads a 1D LUT that bypasses all SM WB settings.

It can be helpful when people are having issues that's all.
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post #1619 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 03:19 PM
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Beardonwalk123, I believe jmpage2 is right where Tyler doesn't say to use RAW XYZ on his SDR video but does say to use it in his HDR and DV videos. That's the reason I asked the question in the first place, it's not mentioned on the SDR video.
I am guessing he missed it. You want the same meter type for all modes.

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post #1620 of 1656 Old 03-29-2020, 03:34 PM
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I am guessing he missed it. You want the same meter type for all modes.

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I recall seeing setting it to OLED in the SDR Youtube tutorial and probably did not notice it in the HDR/DV video as I was going faster at that point as I felt somewhat more familiar with the process.

It would be trivial for them to update at least the written version of their doc to make it clear which mode to use for each of the packaged meters they offer. I was referring to the written tutorial at least as much as the Youtube video.

In any event I'm happy to make this discovery as it will hopefully improve my results.
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