2019 LG OLED Calibration and User Settings (No price talk) - Page 63 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1861 of 1894 Old 06-16-2020, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
Yes it can be used in LS. The 77" models don't need it. I'm still scratching my as to why.
Do you still prefer D65 as white point for the LG 77C9? Or any other white point?
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post #1862 of 1894 Old 06-16-2020, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrfabio View Post
Do you still prefer D65 as white point for the LG 77C9? Or any other white point?
D65 on the 77” models. AWP on all other sizes.
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post #1863 of 1894 Old 06-16-2020, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post
D65 on the 77” models. AWP on all other sizes.
Any idea how 77" WRGB OLED differs what comes to metameric failure?
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post #1864 of 1894 Old 06-18-2020, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Make73 View Post
Any idea how 77" WRGB OLED differs what comes to metameric failure?
or why?
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post #1865 of 1894 Old 06-25-2020, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Callek View Post
Wanted to give Calman Home 2020 RC1 a quick test during the weekend. Did a reset my Technicolor SDR mode, changed to Warm 2 and did a 2-point with the iTPG.

D65, Gamma 2.4, FSI EDR


I'm quite impressed how little adjustment was needed to get pretty good accuracy (didn't touch the CMS). A larger verification patchset might reveal more problems but it looks really good compared to my ISF Dark mode which is Autocaled.
You only did a manual 2 point grayscale, no auto cal? Like to see the "pre"?

bob
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post #1866 of 1894 Old 06-25-2020, 06:02 PM
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I have a month old C9 and after the new FW, the brightness seems bumped up a few points. The pq just isnt dynamic anymore across SDR and HDR. Can anyone recommend some settings post fw.

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post #1867 of 1894 Old 06-26-2020, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post
You only did a manual 2 point grayscale, no auto cal? Like to see the "pre"?

bob
That is correct, only a quick manual 2 point. Wanted something to compare to the autocaled modes.
Apperently I didn't save the session so I don't have the pre results. But I didn't have to do any major adjustments so it should have been pretty good from the start.

This is what I ended up with (id3 pro, FSI EDR)

Warm 2

2 point

High
Red: 0
Green: -4
Blue: -4

Low:
Red: 0
Green: 0
Blue: 3

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post #1868 of 1894 Old 06-29-2020, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by superkyle View Post
Hey guys for those of you who also use a C9 for computer gaming which video mode do you use to calibrate for accurate picture and low input lag? I was thinking cinema home with auto game mode turned on but when I switch input to PC it defaults into game picture mode. Curious if most people use this bc when I calibrate using the calman auto cal the patterns are all green and delta is though the roof.


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Cinema (not Home) for regular high latency mode (ALLM always Enabled but auto-disengaged for <50Hz input) across all formats (SDR, HDR10/HLG, DV), Technicolor for gaming (for SDR and HDR10) because Game modes (for all formats) have the fish-eye elliptic dynamic dimming thingy going and even though I did test DolbyVision gaming with VRR (G-Sync Compatible) at work for curiosity, I never actually play any games in DV (reason 1: it's unnecessary to use the fixed 4:2:0 over RGB version of DV12 when HDR10 can easily work with 4:2:2 or could theoretically work with even 4:4:4 if PC mode wasn't low-quality and we had HDMI 2.1 VGA cards already, whereas Doby can't do more than 4:2:2 in practice and even that 4:2:2 mode is problematic on PC,,, reason 2: very very few PC games have DV mode, even less are working with current Win10+nVidia software versions) but then I would calibrate DV Cinema Home for gaming (I think DV Game also has the fish-eye lenses but ALLM makes everything low-lag when LLM is engaged, so...). Since there is no Cinema Home for SDR (or Technicolor for DV), you can't make it look pretty for the human OCD eyes. But the TV always remembers the last picture mode for alll formats + latency mode combinations which is unexpectedly nice (although FRR and VRR modes having the exact same tone response at display panel level would be even better). Just make sure to set the intended picture mode once for all format+LLM mode combos (3x2 at max).

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post #1869 of 1894 Old 06-29-2020, 07:39 AM
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Thank you

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post #1870 of 1894 Old 06-30-2020, 04:07 PM
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Hi, I bought the C9 a few weeks ago and I've noticed that the image is a little yellowish. I've tried calibrating the white balance by eye comparing it with others monitors I have but it is not the best solution.
So, my question is, would be enough just buying a i1 Display Pro and using it with HCFR for a more or less accurate calibration in SDR and HDR? I have to add that I've just started learning about display calibration and I don't know much about it yet.

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post #1871 of 1894 Old 06-30-2020, 10:05 PM
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quick question!

If I set the Murideo to RGB limited, which 1d & 3dlut option should be used? sdr 16-255 or sdr 16-235?
Normally it should be matched to the Murideo's chroma setting or the default one for sdr RGB 16-255 in the workflow can be used all the time regardless of RGB/YCbCr settings? Can it affect in terms of the black crush?

Btw, for manual calibration, I always choose RGB limited from the signal gen.

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post #1872 of 1894 Old 07-02-2020, 04:59 AM
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Has anyone managed to convert the WOLED LG 6 Series ccss correction file within Displaycal to edr? I have no idea how to use Python at all so I can't do this with the available program.

I'd love to use that correction with Calman Home as I believe it's the most accurate for an i1 Display Pro from what I've read for a WOLED display.
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post #1873 of 1894 Old 07-02-2020, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Callum Jones View Post
Has anyone managed to convert the WOLED LG 6 Series ccss correction file within Displaycal to edr? I have no idea how to use Python at all so I can't do this with the available program.

I'd love to use that correction with Calman Home as I believe it's the most accurate for an i1 Display Pro from what I've read for a WOLED display.
I don't believe so. This has been brought up before. EDR is a proprietary format, and previously XRite utilities have been needed to produce them. AFAIK, only XRite and Portrait can generate them currently.

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post #1874 of 1894 Old 07-04-2020, 11:20 AM
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Hi all.
Just a quick doubt: will resetting the white balance values on service menu void the warranty?
I was trying changing some values and in the end I pressed the reset button.
In fact, white balance seems to have improved with default values for cold color temperature, which I use.
Yet, I just kept thinking whether I voided the warranty with that.
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post #1875 of 1894 Old 07-05-2020, 09:54 AM
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I've been fiddling around the manual adjustments for HDR and read (and heard Vincent on HDTVTest) that it's recommened leaving the low controls for 2-point alone since they can cause posterization. Is this also valid for the C9?
It's nothing I've been able to see with actual content. In my case it's only the red channel that needs a small decrease to get the 30% patch in order.

In older threads I've seen some recommendations to dial in the high controls with a 65% patch is this a better approach than 30/80?
With that said I'm happy with my current results but the OCD is always there

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post #1876 of 1894 Old 07-07-2020, 03:01 PM
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I'm looking for a mobile, LG C9 OLED TV calibration professional in the San Francisco Bay area, to profile my X-Rite i1D3 OEM, using the Bodnar method. I will supply the CalMAN 2020 software and computer. Please PM me if you are interested or know someone who does this. Jeti, Klein, or similar spectrometer required.

Thanks in advance,
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post #1877 of 1894 Old 07-07-2020, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mhmercer View Post
I'm looking for a mobile, LG C9 OLED TV calibration professional in the San Francisco Bay area, to profile my X-Rite i1D3 OEM, using the Bodnar method. I will supply the CalMAN 2020 software and computer. Please PM me if you are interested or know someone who does this. Jeti, Klein, or similar spectrometer required.

Thanks in advance,
Marshal
I’ll PM you as I can do this for you on my Bay Area tour.
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post #1878 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 12:52 AM
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Good morning to all . I have just gone from a LG C8 to a C9. In my previous C8 I have always kept the contrast at 85 following Rtings' recommendations. Now I see that they recommend with the C9 contrast at 90. This confuses me a little, I know that at 90 there is no cliping but I see a more natural and less aggressive image with the contrast 85. I am missing something if I leave it at 85. Thank you
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post #1879 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Pedro Ferreres Gordillo View Post
Good morning to all . I have just gone from a LG C8 to a C9. In my previous C8 I have always kept the contrast at 85 following Rtings' recommendations. Now I see that they recommend with the C9 contrast at 90. This confuses me a little, I know that at 90 there is no cliping but I see a more natural and less aggressive image with the contrast 85. I am missing something if I leave it at 85. Thank you
Rtings.com gives no consideration to "superwhite" (236-255 in 8-bit) in their recommendations and evaluations for any television. (That's my only significant complaint with them. I think the rest of their work is great.) This video range is available as headroom above the 235 reference 100% white level. In the days of analog video and DVD it was common for video to have highlights that overshoot into this range. Setting the contrast low enough to prevent clipping in this range keeps these highlights visible. I haven't seen an assessment of Blu-ray and more recent SDR video in this regard, but I suspect that overshoot into this range may be less common in our fully digital video era.

My preference is to leave the contrast at LG's default of 85. This setting is the correct one to avoid clipping of the superwhite, which occurs with settings of 86 and above. The OLED Light setting allows for much more than ample brightness with the contrast at 85, allowing for SDR 235/100% white to be displayed over 200 nits. (The standard recommendation is 100 nits, with 200 nits being an alternate for viewing in a bright daytime environment.) 85 is also the 'bypass' setting which essentially takes the contrast setting out of the video pipeline, like bypassing a tone control on an audio receiver. That is particularly significant if you calibrate the picture mode using the 1D and 3D LUTs, such as with CalMAN.
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post #1880 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 09:23 AM
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I’ll PM you as I can do this for you on my Bay Area tour.
I have PM'd you. Yes. Thanks!

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post #1881 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 12:07 PM
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I tried to go through quite a few threads, but I feel that answers are all over the place. To calibrate a 65C9 for SDR and HDR content:
  1. Is D65 a good white point, or should I be using an alternate WP? (The answers I have seen are JUDD, D65, multiple variations of (0.3xx, 0.3xx), etc etc. Which one should I shoot for?)
  2. Will calibration have a negative effect on life of the subpixels? Like if I have to raise red at IRE90 to balance, will it drive red subpixel harder and end up burning it faster?

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post #1882 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Soul_ View Post
  1. Is D65 a good white point, or should I be using an alternate WP? (The answers I have seen are JUDD, D65, multiple variations of (0.3xx, 0.3xx), etc etc. Which one should I shoot for?)
  2. Will calibration have a negative effect on life of the subpixels? Like if I have to raise red at IRE90 to balance, will it drive red subpixel harder and end up burning it faster?
  1. Sorry, but I don't think there is an easy answer for this. You need to educate yourself about the options, and select what you think is best. I'd recommend starting with D65 to get comfortable with the calibration process and as a baseline for comparison. When you're comfortable with the concept of metameric failure and a choice for an AWP then certainly give it a try if you want. I also recommend taking a few weeks to get used to the look of any new white point or calibration, rather than making a snap judgment as to whether it is better or worse than any other.
  2. I don't think there is any significance to this concern. There probably is some effect, but I would imagine something of the magnitude of 20 or 30 minutes in 10,000 hours. I don't think there's that much change. The ISF Dark and Cinema modes are pretty darn close out of the box, so you're making very small balance adjustments. I suspect that getting out of the Standard or Vivid picture modes and/or getting the OLED Light turned down for SDR are probably a lot more significant for the life of the display. The big thing is not leaving static images on screen for endless hours, much like was the case for CRT displays which were the standard for many, many years.
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post #1883 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
  1. Sorry, but I don't think there is an easy answer for this. You need to educate yourself about the options, and select what you think is best. I'd recommend starting with D65 to get comfortable with the calibration process and as a baseline for comparison. When you're comfortable with the concept of metameric failure and a choice for an AWP then certainly give it a try if you want. I also recommend taking a few weeks to get used to the look of any new white point or calibration, rather than making a snap judgment as to whether it is better or worse than any other.
  2. I don't think there is any significance to this concern. There probably is some effect, but I would imagine something of the magnitude of 20 or 30 minutes in 10,000 hours. I don't think there's that much change. The ISF Dark and Cinema modes are pretty darn close out of the box, so you're making very small balance adjustments. I suspect that getting out of the Standard or Vivid picture modes and/or getting the OLED Light turned down for SDR are probably a lot more significant for the life of the display. The big thing is not leaving static images on screen for endless hours, much like was the case for CRT displays which were the standard for many, many years.
Speaking of CRTs, calibration usually IMPROVED their longevity by taking them out of "torch" mode, reducing the wear on the phosphors and the set's power consumption. I suspect there may be similar results here.
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post #1884 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
  1. Sorry, but I don't think there is an easy answer for this. You need to educate yourself about the options, and select what you think is best. I'd recommend starting with D65 to get comfortable with the calibration process and as a baseline for comparison. When you're comfortable with the concept of metameric failure and a choice for an AWP then certainly give it a try if you want. I also recommend taking a few weeks to get used to the look of any new white point or calibration, rather than making a snap judgment as to whether it is better or worse than any other.
  2. I don't think there is any significance to this concern. There probably is some effect, but I would imagine something of the magnitude of 20 or 30 minutes in 10,000 hours. I don't think there's that much change. The ISF Dark and Cinema modes are pretty darn close out of the box, so you're making very small balance adjustments. I suspect that getting out of the Standard or Vivid picture modes and/or getting the OLED Light turned down for SDR are probably a lot more significant for the life of the display. The big thing is not leaving static images on screen for endless hours, much like was the case for CRT displays which were the standard for many, many years.
Thank you KC. I think your answer is on point. I will start with D65, and progress if I feel differently about it.

This my first OLED so I am just trying to be a bit cautious with it. Cheers!!!

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post #1885 of 1894 Old 07-08-2020, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Soul_ View Post
Thank you KC. I think your answer is on point. I will start with D65, and progress if I feel differently about it.

This my first OLED so I am just trying to be a bit cautious with it. Cheers!!!
Because of the numerous hoops and workarounds the manufacturers have had to go through to make consumer WOLED sets bright enough to compete with LCD and reliable as well, OLED is absolutely the toughest display tech to properly calibrate today. These also change from manufacturer to manufacturer, model year to model year, and model to model, so KC's recommendation to educate yourself is on point. If you can't wait, consider hiring a professional.
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post #1886 of 1894 Old 07-09-2020, 01:31 AM
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Is it possible to calibrate SDR mode of LG C9 with with X-Rite iDisplay Pro Plus to have maxed out OLED light and peak brightness, with contrast at default, and a really high gamma; 3.8 or even 4.0?
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post #1887 of 1894 Old 07-09-2020, 02:59 AM
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Is it possible to calibrate SDR mode of LG C9 with with X-Rite iDisplay Pro Plus to have maxed out OLED light and peak brightness, with contrast at default, and a really high gamma; 3.8 or even 4.0?
Depends on how you interpret that. You used the word "calibrate", and the whole point of calibration is to display the content as intended by the creators as accurately as possible. Since no content is mastered with a gamma higher than 2.4, and no SDR content is mastered at an eye-blasting 500 nits or whatever, then the answer is a very obvious "no".

But if we ignore that one word (even though it's the goal!), I'm sure it would be possible to adjust the TV in that way with such a setup. It would not be a "calibration", and it would look absolutely horrible, but sure, I don't see why it's not possible. It's your equipment to do as you like with at the end of the day

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post #1888 of 1894 Old 07-09-2020, 03:06 AM
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Depends on how you interpret that. You used the word "calibrate", and the whole point of calibration is to display the content as intended by the creators as accurately as possible. Since no content is mastered with a gamma higher than 2.4, and no SDR content is mastered at an eye-blasting 500 nits or whatever, then the answer is a very obvious "no".

But if we ignore that one word (even though it's the goal!), I'm sure it would be possible to adjust the TV in that way with such a setup. It would not be a "calibration", and it would look absolutely awful, but I don't see why it's not possible.
I know the implied meaning with regards to accuracy. I just meant its usage as verb to mean, "carefully assess, set, or adjust". I don't want reference SDR right now. Just alternate white point and that high-gamma with maxed luminance for SDR and calibrated reference HDR with alternate white point.

In the calibration process, is there an option for inputting any gamma value as desired, so that the meter can test for that gamma, or they limited to the commonly used ones? If not sure, can you link me to any resource where I can find out whether inputting a custom high-gamma value would be possible or not? Don't want to purchase the hardware and then find out I can't do it.
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post #1889 of 1894 Old 07-09-2020, 08:58 AM
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I know the implied meaning with regards to accuracy. I just meant its usage as verb to mean, "carefully assess, set, or adjust". I don't want reference SDR right now. Just alternate white point and that high-gamma with maxed luminance for SDR and calibrated reference HDR with alternate white point.

In the calibration process, is there an option for inputting any gamma value as desired, so that the meter can test for that gamma, or they limited to the commonly used ones? If not sure, can you link me to any resource where I can find out whether inputting a custom high-gamma value would be possible or not? Don't want to purchase the hardware and then find out I can't do it.

Yes you can enter whatever power law Gamma number you want to calibrate to.


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post #1890 of 1894 Old 07-09-2020, 09:13 AM
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Yes you can enter whatever power law Gamma number you want to calibrate to.


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Awesome! Thanks. Weird request, I know. Lol

I basically want to extend the dynamic range of SDR. I'm currently using gamma of 3.4 dialed in approximately by IRE adjustments in the white balance. It's working well for me, but since I can't go higher, as maximum luminance offset is +/-50, I can't push higher than 3.4, which means I'm not maxing out luminance for highlights without making the picture too bright. At OLED light 80. Want to hit 100 with 3.8 maybe. Plus, my panel was replaced for uniformity and white point not calibrated, and I doubt I can get LG to do it here in India. Really doubt if they even have the right resources provided to the service team. So I can fix that too.

Would X-rite iDisplay Studio be sufficient for this purpose, even if slow, taking into consideration the panel will drift in higher luminance range, or will you recommend iDisplay Pro or Pro Plus for this purpose? Also, would Calman Home be able to do this, or do I need to go into in-depth methods?
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