Originally Posted by Anger.miki
D-Nice is certainly one of those few real professionals that I deeply respect because he gets paid for his (amazing) job and, AFAIK
, he does not accept weird and compromising sponsorships.
True! He is using LightSpace a lot time for all 3D LUT profilings.
Originally Posted by liberator72
What I can say, hand on heart, is that despite the limitations of the equipment I own (which is well documented, and I knew about before my purchase), the image I see on screen matches the results I see "on paper". And certainly better than the calibrations I've paid good money for in the past.
Originally Posted by Anger.miki
before using Jeti, I was also convinced that the visual difference could not be detected with the naked eye. I had to change my mind. I repeat, it is not an epochal change and I cannot even tell you if it is worth spending all that money, but the difference is there and is sufficiently evident. It is however such as to make the images more natural, on the same level as those that only my plasma (Kuro) was capable of giving me.
Every enthusiast use whatever is possible for his pocket to calibrate as best as possible his display, but its important also to use correct software and procedure, as it can happen to have the best calibration gear and use a software with a broken color engine volumetric 3D LUT, so your end results to not be so perfect.
Even by using the best software but with wrong meter settings or bad TV pre-calibration or setting to not able to get so great results.
Its true that for all that perfect results you see for LG OLED's, its behind a team of enthusiasts (Fabio, Miki, James, Miki, Ric, Adolfo, Abdessamad, Enrico) who have performed many different profilings with many different settings until to finalize with some specific settings which will work for all users with LG OLED's to have the best possible picture.
Its not that the picture was not good with the first profiling, but the passion to improve as more as possible the end results (using any method or software, with different meters etc) to end measurements but to real content also.
LightSpace provide tools to evaluate the generated correction and has drift plots which helps a lot in comparison of actual LUT data and see how delay or black frame times before each patch read affect the end results...also about how different patchsets order with same meter/generator settings can change the panel's stability.
So for someone who will follow these steps, then the accuracy of the end results can be improved by using better instruments, so the order of gear recommendations to improve the end results can be:
1) Use i1Display PRO with WRGB OLED table for LG 2018 available officially only LightSpace (for i1Display PRO users I mean) as it was a job performed for FSI and LightIllusion from X-Rite.
2) Use i1Display PRO with Generic CMF and profile using i1PRO2.
3) Use i1Display PRO with Generic CMG and hire a pro with high-end spectro to get a meter profiling only (then DIY the profiling).
4) When you have a spectro (i1PRO2 or better) and a CRT/Plasma or an old LCD (not wide gamut) you can use the spectro to calibrate the 100% White and then do perceptual matching to find and create a custom White Point for your OLED.
5) Get the best colorimeter for large profilings, the Klein K-10.
6) Paint the area of your eye sight, ceiling, side walls and back TV wall with a Munsel N5 calibrated paint (about 40 euros per litre it costs). There 2 companies for such paint, one in USA and one in UK. The UK's provide calibration report also.
Munsell N5 calibrated paint is a neutral gray with flat spectral response, without having any hue bias because for the eye to see color accurately, the surround environment need to be chromatically neutral also.
Post-production studios have their room, even desks painted using a specific calibrated neutral gray paint.
There is an industry-specified neutral matte gray (vinyl latex emulsion) with 18% reflectance (Munsell N5) calibrated paint specifically formulated for critical color viewing conditions with neutral surround as specified by ISO 3664:2009 (Viewing Conditions - Graphic Technology & Photography) / SMPTE ST 2080-3:2017 (Reference Viewing Environment for Evaluation of HDTV Images), not all gray's are the same, you need spectrophotometric measurement to be sure that it has an equal mixture of all the spectrum (r-o-y-g-b-i-v) colors, for that reason that paint is multiple times more expensive and there only a few companies which are selling it.
Below is the calibration report of the Munsell N5 calibrated paint I use to my room for example:
To the opposite wall, it need to be non-reflective, its better to have black painted wall, blacks paint which is truly black is the Rosco TV black paint
(which meets specifications for 3% reflectance), most of normal black paints have blue-ish tint.
You can use cloth also, the deepest black is called 'Triple Velvet Black', see there
When you have Neutral Gray area behind your TV (or walls) this will provide more comfort when you will watch movies because it stabilizes your eyes iris. Also it provides a consistent white balance for your eyes, giving a constant reference in the peripheral area around your display, eliminating the negative effects of simultaneous contrast.
Also it will minimize the ''color pollution''of viewing area caused by reflections from chromatic surfaces.
The application of a neutral gray to chromatic surfaces will eliminate such color pollution by providing spectraly neutral surfaces around the viewing area.
How you will say WOW, all these stuff sound so crazy....has anyone that has done all these to his HT environment, yes..... Ted ..who else? lol