Calman Home for Sony 2019 - Page 16 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #451 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Looks like from your screenshot you are nearly there.
Device Control is the name of the software that you have taken your screenshot from.

There's help for it here - Google Chrome browser will automatically translate (which is brilliant): https://www.avmagazine.it/forum/88-c...llo-dei-device

Help for the Raspberry Pi PGenerator in general here:
https://www.avmagazine.it/forum/88-c...rator-by-biasi
Everything you need to do is in those two links. The configuration to RGB-full is in the second link, first post, steps 3 and 4.

Go slowly and carefully (may need to read a few times) and you'll be fine

HTH
Perfect, seems it was set to RGB Full by default. Now to find out what TV is not taking the grayscale inputs from Calman.


When I uninstall and reinstall Calman is still picking up some previous settings, I wonder if Calman uninstall is not leaving some config info behind maybe in the registry.

Just feel buggy to me, mayb the TV I may do a full TV reset and start all over again

Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
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post #452 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 11:54 AM
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OK sorry to flood this forume, but here is latest update. I ripped Calman off my laptop, searched registry and disk and removed anything related to it. I reinstall and then did a full factory reset on TV. Same issues. It reads patterns fine, when it gets to grayscale it does what I show in the previous post where it does one reading then seems to fail. Acts liek the TV is not taking the input from Calman as I can read the series of grayscale series. I am suspicious of Calman App for Bravia as when it connects it blanks the screen, but is not on any input, I have to set the input back to the input that I am calibrating. I am going to move on to my X900E and wee if it behaves any better. IF that works fine I will wiat to heard form Portrait Displays and at worst case get TV swapped if it is a communications issue with TV.

Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
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post #453 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
OK sorry to flood this forume, but here is latest update. I ripped Calman off my laptop, searched registry and disk and removed anything related to it. I reinstall and then did a full factory reset on TV. Same issues. It reads patterns fine, when it gets to grayscale it does what I show in the previous post where it does one reading then seems to fail. Acts liek the TV is not taking the input from Calman as I can read the series of grayscale series. I am suspicious of Calman App for Bravia as when it connects it blanks the screen, but is not on any input, I have to set the input back to the input that I am calibrating. I am going to move on to my X900E and wee if it behaves any better. IF that works fine I will wiat to heard form Portrait Displays and at worst case get TV swapped if it is a communications issue with TV.


Which firmware version is your A9F running?

I will set up our A9F on Monday and test it.

Tyler Pruitt - Technical Evangelist - for CalMAN

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post #454 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post
Which firmware version is your A9F running?

I will set up our A9F on Monday and test it.


It is a brand new A9G, I will get you the firmware, but I have a 65X900E doing the same thing. It gets one more reading into greyscale and terminates. I am going to try another laptop, but seems odd that it dies in same place, and it also hangs doing the full DDC reset. This is a Windows 10 Pro latest November 2019 updates.

UPDATE:

OK so I have another laptop also Window 10, more traditional. Clean Calman install on it, doing my X900E and does same exact thing. On Greyscale calibration it takes 2 reads then fails similar messages to my other posts. This time everything is hard wired connected via ethernet and still using PGenerator. Seems to me this is either a Calman Home issue of a Calman Bravia issue.

Only settings I have cahnged is for the i1 Display to set to RAW and the formula changed DeltaE formula from de2000 doe de_ITP, but even setting that back does not help.

Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s

Last edited by kluken; 11-30-2019 at 01:59 PM.
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post #455 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kluken View Post
It is a brand new A9G, I will get you the firmware, but I have a 65X900E doing the same thing. It gets one more reading into greyscale and terminates. I am going to try another laptop, but seems odd that it dies in same place, and it also hangs doing the full DDC reset. This is a Windows 10 Pro latest November 2019 updates.

UPDATE:

OK so I have another laptop also Window 10, more traditional. Clean Calman install on it, doing my X900E and does same exact thing. On Greyscale calibration it takes 2 reads then fails similar messages to my other posts. This time everything is hard wired connected via ethernet and still using PGenerator. Seems to me this is either a Calman Home issue of a Calman Bravia issue.

Only settings I have cahnged is for the i1 Display to set to RAW and the formula changed DeltaE formula from de2000 doe de_ITP, but even setting that back does not help.
Something is not right with your setup. I've calibrated several A9Gs last week without a single problem. I'm not sure if you can do this with the Sony but did you try just plugging your ethernet directly into the Sony without a router? On the LG you can do this just turn off your wifi on the laptop just as a precaution. You when you go into the Sony hardwired network menu's you should see an ip address that your laptop is connected to. The fact that CM is failing on the read sounds like a network issue to me or something in your network that may be blocking the messages.
Let us know.

John
Sony 55A1E, A9F / LG 55OLEDC8
Marantz 7012, Ohm Walsh Speakers
Klein K10-A, Jeti 1501, Murideo Six-G Gen2
Calman Ultimate, ISF Level III Certified
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post #456 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 02:57 PM
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Hi everyone,

I've been going hard at this the last couple of days, and have everything set up and comfortable enough to tweak. I've read through the online walkthrough, watched a youtube video, and read through 80% of this thread. I do have a couple questions that have been bugging me on the initial setup, since I'm getting conflicting answers while searching so I figured a consolidated post would give me better answer. To reiterate, I'm fully intending to do this Autocal process only (SDR, and hope it translates it automatically to DV and HDR etc.). I'm just interested in learning this "next step" for correct settings and approach to hold me over for another year or so until professional calibration time

Setup:
- I'm using the Autocal feature, and am a novice enthusiast. The below questions I'm looking for the best/recommended settings for a set it and leave it approach so I know I'm confident the PQ is optimized from that perspective.
- A9G Oled
- Sepctral MobileForge pattern generator via FireStick4k
- X-rite i1Display Pro

Questions:

(1) With the i1Display meter setup, the walkthrough guides specifically says to use the "OLED" setting for meter mode, while the youtube instructions say RawXYZ is best. Which one is it? Do I also need to enable the Low Light Handler?

(2) The guides specifically and clearly call for SDR with Power Gamma 2.2 and D65 for setup. OK easy enough, however, in the guide further down there's a sub-bullet that says for OLED to use Gamma formula bt.1886. Which is correct target? My understanding is that I can still do PowerGamma 2.2 and just manually change it later after calibration to 2.4 (or -2 on Sony).

(3) Measurement options: Sony defaults to de2000, online people are recommending JNDab, the youtube video says ITP....without going into details, what's my best setting with the above?

(4) Set Contrast to 100 for calibration, bring down to 90 afterwards? Or leave at 90 and AutoCal does it automatically to 100?

(5) I'm assuming the "source" pattern generator settings (like APL, pattern size etc) are set automatically with the AutoCal and Mobileforge and I don't need to touch those?

Thanks

Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series

Last edited by pbz06; 11-30-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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post #457 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Hi everyone,

I've been going hard at this the last couple of days, and have everything set up and comfortable enough to tweak. I've read through the online walkthrough, watched a youtube video, and read through 80% of this thread. I do have a couple questions that have been bugging me on the initial setup, since I'm getting conflicting answers while searching so I figured a consolidated post would give me better answer. To reiterate, I'm fully intending to do this Autocal process only (SDR, and hope it translates it automatically to DV and HDR etc.). I'm just interested in learning this "next step" for correct settings and approach to hold me over for another year or so until professional calibration time

Setup:
- I'm using the Autocal feature, and am a novice enthusiast. The below questions I'm looking for the best/recommended settings for a set it and leave it approach so I know I'm confident the PQ is optimized from that perspective.
- A9G Oled
- Sepctral MobileForge pattern generator via FireStick4k
- X-rite i1Display Pro

Questions:

(1) With the i1Display meter setup, the walkthrough guides specifically says to use the "OLED" setting for meter mode, while the youtube instructions say RawXYZ is best. Which one is it? Do I also need to enable the Low Light Handler?

(2) The guides specifically and clearly call for SDR with Power Gamma 2.2 and D65 for setup. OK easy enough, however, in the guide further down there's a sub-bullet that says for OLED to use Gamma formula bt.1886. Which is correct target? My understanding is that I can still do PowerGamma 2.2 and just manually change it later after calibration to 2.4 (or -2 on Sony).

(3) Measurement options: Sony defaults to de2000, online people are recommending JNDab, the youtube video says ITP....without going into details, what's my best setting with the above?

(4) Set Contrast to 100 for calibration, bring down to 90 afterwards? Or leave at 90 and AutoCal does it automatically to 100?

(5) I'm assuming the "source" pattern generator settings (like APL, pattern size etc) are set automatically with the AutoCal and Mobileforge and I don't need to touch those?

Thanks
(1) With the i1Display meter setup, the walkthrough guides specifically says to use the "OLED" setting for meter mode, while the youtube instructions say RawXYZ is best. Which one is it? Do I also need to enable the Low Light Handler? Use Raw XYZ and the low light handler.

(2) The guides specifically and clearly call for SDR with Power Gamma 2.2 and D65 for setup. OK easy enough, however, in the guide further down there's a sub-bullet that says for OLED to use Gamma formula bt.1886. Which is correct target? My understanding is that I can still do PowerGamma 2.2 and just manually change it later after calibration to 2.4 (or -2 on Sony). For the OLED Gamma 2.2 and BT1886 are essentially the same. Use Gamma 2.2. Yes you can change to 2.4 manually after and the set will recalculate the necessary values.

(3) Measurement options: Sony defaults to de2000, online people are recommending JNDab, the youtube video says ITP....without going into details, what's my best setting with the above? Use ITP for the best accuracy.

(4) Set Contrast to 100 for calibration, bring down to 90 afterwards? Or leave at 90 and AutoCal does it automatically to 100? CM will automatically switch the contrast to 100 when you do the DDC Reset and then switch it back to 90 after the calibration is complete.

(5) I'm assuming the "source" pattern generator settings (like APL, pattern size etc) are set automatically with the AutoCal and Mobileforge and I don't need to touch those? Use 10% window, YCbCr if possible or RGB.
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Sony 55A1E, A9F / LG 55OLEDC8
Marantz 7012, Ohm Walsh Speakers
Klein K10-A, Jeti 1501, Murideo Six-G Gen2
Calman Ultimate, ISF Level III Certified
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post #458 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
Something is not right with your setup. I've calibrated several A9Gs last week without a single problem. I'm not sure if you can do this with the Sony but did you try just plugging your ethernet directly into the Sony without a router? On the LG you can do this just turn off your wifi on the laptop just as a precaution. You when you go into the Sony hardwired network menu's you should see an ip address that your laptop is connected to. The fact that CM is failing on the read sounds like a network issue to me or something in your network that may be blocking the messages.
Let us know.
2 different Sony's with same issue from 2 different laptops? One was all wired. I will set the one Sony tomorrow to wireless. One laptop was wireless the other wired. I am considering doing a cross over cable to the TV tomorrow if I can get the Client 3 patterns to show on the TV correctly.

The good news on the X900E was I played with just having Calman run through continuous patterns and tweaked the color gains to get everything to an average 1.3 with 1 nasty color patch at 5.6 which I need to figure out. Far better than the >5 deltaE average before I played with it. Skin tones improved noticeably. I will try again tomorrow now on A9G and see if at least the auto fails I will tweak manually.

Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s

Last edited by kluken; 11-30-2019 at 03:36 PM.
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post #459 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kluken View Post
2 different Sony's with same issue from 2 different laptops? One was all wired. I will set the one Sony tomorrow to wireless. One laptop was wireless the other wired. I am considering doing a cross over cable to the TV tomorrow if I can get the Client 3 patterns to show on the TV correctly.

The good news on the X900E was I played with just having Calman run through continuous patterns and tweaked the color gains to get everything to an average 1.3 with 1 nasty color patch at 5.6 which I need to figure out. Far better than the >5 deltaE average before I played with it. Skin tones improved noticeably. I will try again tomorrow now on A9G and see if at least the auto fails I will tweak manually.
That's why I think I may be something in your network. You shouldn't need a cross over cable. Just try without it first.

John
Sony 55A1E, A9F / LG 55OLEDC8
Marantz 7012, Ohm Walsh Speakers
Klein K10-A, Jeti 1501, Murideo Six-G Gen2
Calman Ultimate, ISF Level III Certified
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post #460 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
2 different Sony's with same issue from 2 different laptops? One was all wired. I will set the one Sony tomorrow to wireless. One laptop was wireless the other wired. I am considering doing a cross over cable to the TV tomorrow if I can get the Client 3 patterns to show on the TV correctly.



The good news on the X900E was I played with just having Calman run through continuous patterns and tweaked the color gains to get everything to an average 1.3 with 1 nasty color patch at 5.6 which I need to figure out. Far better than the >5 deltaE average before I played with it. Skin tones improved noticeably. I will try again tomorrow now on A9G and see if at least the auto fails I will tweak manually.
I'm not sure if I missed this yet but, have you tried just using the laptop as the pattern generator?

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Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
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post #461 of 517 Old 11-30-2019, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
Something is not right with your setup. I've calibrated several A9Gs last week without a single problem. I'm not sure if you can do this with the Sony but did you try just plugging your ethernet directly into the Sony without a router? On the LG you can do this just turn off your wifi on the laptop just as a precaution. You when you go into the Sony hardwired network menu's you should see an ip address that your laptop is connected to. The fact that CM is failing on the read sounds like a network issue to me or something in your network that may be blocking the messages.
Let us know.
The A9G was directly connected to wired Ethernet as was the PGenerator the only thing wireless was the laptop. On the X900E the other laptop was wired, but I think the X900E was wired, but I can be sure to wire it in tomorrow and try again.
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Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
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post #462 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:01 AM
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Does the meter need to be absolutely flush on the TV screen? My i1Display is really difficult to get just right with the counterweight, and even when I think I got it, after a couple minutes it sort of starts tilting/shifting/sliding a hair (very little). Any tips to get it 100% stable?

Anyway, I did complete another run...any red flags? Not sure why my dynamic range shows peak of 68 nits.
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Sony XBR-77A9G / Panasonic DP-UB9000 / Marantz SR7011 / Def Tech 9060 Series
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post #463 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Does the meter need to be absolutely flush on the TV screen? My i1Display is really difficult to get just right with the counterweight, and even when I think I got it, after a couple minutes it sort of starts tilting/shifting/sliding a hair (very little). Any tips to get it 100% stable?

Anyway, I did complete another run...any red flags? Not sure why my dynamic range shows peak of 68 nits.
Looks decent to my amateur eyes but others will comment. I think on the last point - the bottom left shows the 90% selected, you can manually read 100% white by clicking the colour patches and reading.

Not sure how to get the meter flush, it is one reason I love the way my C8 tilts backwards slightly. It's not an accident, it's by design, but you wouldn't believe the number of FAQs from newbies about it. I love it because it helps the meter rest in place! Perhaps you could put a few pieces of paper under front of the TV's feet or something to lean it back a touch - not sure of the stand design of your model?

_______________
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post #464 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Does the meter need to be absolutely flush on the TV screen? My i1Display is really difficult to get just right with the counterweight, and even when I think I got it, after a couple minutes it sort of starts tilting/shifting/sliding a hair (very little). Any tips to get it 100% stable?

Anyway, I did complete another run...any red flags? Not sure why my dynamic range shows peak of 68 nits.
Get a cheap tripod that has a boom arm. I have one I use for my sound calibration with my Denon and it works great for the i1 meter especially since my basement wall mounted X900E is wall mounted and tilts forward.
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Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s
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post #465 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Does the meter need to be absolutely flush on the TV screen? My i1Display is really difficult to get just right with the counterweight, and even when I think I got it, after a couple minutes it sort of starts tilting/shifting/sliding a hair (very little). Any tips to get it 100% stable?



Anyway, I did complete another run...any red flags? Not sure why my dynamic range shows peak of 68 nits.

Or just use a short strip of painter’s tape across the back of the meter to keep it against the screen . That is what I use, as mine won’t stay flush otherwise.


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post #466 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 11:28 AM
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Doing a bit of research to help me decide between going the DIY route versus hiring a professional calibrator and have a couple of questions for those in this thread.

1. All else being equal, if I don't have a retail i1D profiled to my Sony A9G, will I see humanly-visible errors in the resulting calibration?

2. I don't see in any documentation that Calman provides a perceptually matched white point for Sony OLEDs in their Calman Home for Sony software. Is there a reason why they only provide D65 and the Judd-Voss modified whitepoints; shouldn't they also provide one for Sony WRGB OLEDs?
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post #467 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jrref View Post
That's why I think I may be something in your network. You shouldn't need a cross over cable. Just try without it first.
OK I don't know what can be wrong with my setup. I tried again today, all devices wired into same switch and both the X900E and A9G hang on the step for DDC reset and fail doing grayscale adjustments. I manually set up both X900Es and got very goo results. The A9G I gave up when I could not get RGB balance to be flat at 0 seems through most of the range is is down a bit and no matter what tweaking I did I could not get it flat nor get DeltaE to be consistently under 3. Seems this is the work for a Pro or at least Calman Home that actually works. I am equally frustrated with Calman and The Sony, since it was far easier to manually bring both my X900s into good results than the A9G that cost more than the other 2 TVs and then doubled. Seems odd that the both X900E dialed right in very easily. I may try with PC as pattern generator but that has been a real hassle.

UPDATE:

Finally got the Client 3 test patterns some what working. No matter what I do they show up in the lower right corner. There is no way to drag them from one screen to the other. Oddly with PGenerator the RGB balance was on the low side, with Client 3 it is on the high side. Not sure I am trusting the PC prefer PGenerator. I did pick up a FireTV stick 4K on sale for $25 so may play with that at next attempt. Leaning toward Ted's disc and manual patters on my Oppo as probably the best method.

What is current thinking 100 or 200 hours before the professional calibration?

Sony 77A9G (Also XBR65X900E and XBR55X900E)
Denon x7200WA
Oppo BD-203
Klipsch RP-280F / RC-62ii / RP-140SA / RS-35 / RS-25
Dual PSA V1800s

Last edited by kluken; 12-01-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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OK I don't know what can be wrong with my setup. I tried again today, all devices wired into same switch and both the X900E and A9G hang on the step for DDC reset and fail doing grayscale adjustments. I manually set up both X900Es and got very goo results. The A9G I gave up when I could not get RGB balance to be flat at 0 seems through most of the range is is down a bit and no matter what tweaking I did I could not get it flat nor get DeltaE to be consistently under 3. Seems this is the work for a Pro or at least Calman Home that actually works. I am equally frustrated with Calman and The Sony, since it was far easier to manually bring both my X900s into good results than the A9G that cost more than the other 2 TVs and then doubled. Seems odd that the both X900E dialed right in very easily. I may try with PC as pattern generator but that has been a real hassle.

UPDATE:

Finally got the Client 3 test patterns some what working. No matter what I do they show up in the lower right corner. There is no way to drag them from one screen to the other. Oddly with PGenerator the RGB balance was on the low side, with Client 3 it is on the high side. Not sure I am trusting the PC prefer PGenerator. I did pick up a FireTV stick 4K on sale for $25 so may play with that at next attempt. Leaning toward Ted's disc and manual patters on my Oppo as probably the best method.

What is current thinking 100 or 200 hours before the professional calibration?
You need at least 200 hours for the OLED. As far as CM autocal, at this point you need to work with PD Support since if the product was wasn't working there would be a ton of reports in this thread. If you want to try one more thing, as I previously suggested, bypass any of your routers and or switches and just plug your laptop into the Sony with a regular ethernet cable. This will bypass your home network. Don't worry about the test pattern generator, just see if CM still hangs on the read.
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post #469 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:35 PM
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You need at least 200 hours for the OLED. As far as CM autocal, at this point you need to work with PD Support since if the product was wasn't working there would be a ton of reports in this thread. If you want to try one more thing, as I previously suggested, bypass any of your routers and or switches and just plug your laptop into the Sony with a regular ethernet cable. This will bypass your home network. Don't worry about the test pattern generator, just see if CM still hangs on the read.
I will try direct cable next weekend. Plugging everything in to a standalone switch wired should have bypassed any router or any other device as everything was on same network in same switch hard wired. I have a new laptop coming next week as well so will try that before anything else gets loaded on it and plug that one in directly. Not easy finding decent small laptops that still have a real Ethernet port in them.

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post #470 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
I will try direct cable next weekend. Plugging everything in to a standalone switch wired should have bypassed any router or any other device as everything was on same network in same switch hard wired. I have a new laptop coming next week as well so will try that before anything else gets loaded on it and plug that one in directly. Not easy finding decent small laptops that still have a real Ethernet port in them.
Let me ask again.....
Did you run with just the laptop and the TV?
If your laptop has an Intel GPU you can set it for full RGB in Extend display mode. Set the resolution for 4k on the TV. Set everything up as Tyler posted earlier.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


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If you can set your HDMI output on laptop to RGB Full Range then you can use CalMAN’s built in pattern window:


Basic info for using CalMAN internal pattern window with PC HDMI output for CalMAN Home.

1. Uncheck the “Expand Built-in Patterns to PC Levels” in the Application Preferences sub-menu in the CalMAN Settings menu (Gear Wheel).

2. Setup your PC’s HDMI output setting to Full Range RGB 0-255. Configure the TV and an extended desktop display, not mirrored.

3. Force TV setting into Limited range 16-235 . On Sony TVs this means setting “HDMI Video Range = Limited” .

4. Click on the Source Tab in CalMAN and click the “open pattern window” button.

5. Drag pattern window to the TV screen, then click once on the pattern window to make it full screen.
This will take out Client 3 and PGenerator from the mix.

You don't need Client3 when using the Intel GPU laptop directly.

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
Sony XBR-75Z9F, Vizio P75-C1, Pioneer Kuro 5020, Pioneer VSX-1131, XBox One(X), Wii, NVIDIA SHIELD.v1, FireTV 4K-HDR, HDHR Connects, QNAP 431+

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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
I will try direct cable next weekend. Plugging everything in to a standalone switch wired should have bypassed any router or any other device as everything was on same network in same switch hard wired. I have a new laptop coming next week as well so will try that before anything else gets loaded on it and plug that one in directly. Not easy finding decent small laptops that still have a real Ethernet port in them.
Sounds good, just frustrating that you are one of the few having problems with this software. In most cases you install it and it runs perfectly. Most of the issues are with users who are using different types of pattern generators. If you buy a regular TPG, which are expensive, or use your PC to generate the patterns or even the Raspberry Pi solution, for the Sony, it's a very straight forward process to calibrate it.

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Sounds good, just frustrating that you are one of the few having problems with this software. In most cases you install it and it runs perfectly. Most of the issues are with users who are using different types of pattern generators. If you buy a regular TPG, which are expensive, or use your PC to generate the patterns or even the Raspberry Pi solution, for the Sony, it's a very straight forward process to calibrate it.
I know and I am an IT guy so I have been trying to figure this out. That is why on second laptop I just installed it discovered meter, PGenerator and TV and off it goes, but then it get to Grayscale it just fails, same with color settings. I can manually run things, but it just will not work, and I have same issues on A9G and 2 X900E sets. I have tried every combination of wired, wireless, etc. Both laptops are the latest Windows 10 November 2019 update (brand new updates) so it is possible it may have caused something. Trust me I have been racking my head for days now trying to figure it out. I am wondering if the Bravia app can be causing any issues since that is the gateway into the TV.

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post #473 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:49 PM
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Let me ask again.....
Did you run with just the laptop and the TV?
If your laptop has an Intel GPU you can set it for full RGB in Extend display mode. Set the resolution for 4k on the TV. Set everything up as Tyler posted earlier. This will take out Client 3 and PGenerator from the mix.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
That I have not tried yet, the one laptop is older with AMD GPU, the other is a tablet and uses a Thunderbolt to HDMI so before I try direct again I want my new laptop that will have Intel UHD 620 chipset and a real HDMI port due later this week. I don't think that will help it seems to have issue communicating with the Sony as it says it is updating Bravia and it just times our and says it failed to complete. I am not sure how the Braiva App on the TV handles things, but it sure sounds like communication to the TV and everything is gb connections. I even set TV to wireless to see if that would help and same thing.

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Originally Posted by kluken View Post
I know and I am an IT guy so I have been trying to figure this out. That is why on second laptop I just installed it discovered meter, PGenerator and TV and off it goes, but then it get to Grayscale it just fails, same with color settings. I can manually run things, but it just will not work, and I have same issues on A9G and 2 X900E sets. I have tried every combination of wired, wireless, etc. Both laptops are the latest Windows 10 November 2019 update (brand new updates) so it is possible it may have caused something. Trust me I have been racking my head for days now trying to figure it out. I am wondering if the Bravia app can be causing any issues since that is the gateway into the TV.
Agreed. I've never had this problem and I've personally have never heard of anyone running into it so i'm out of helpful suggestions. I would do as you are planning. Try a new PC and load everything from scratch but if you are still having the same problem then your only hope to resolve it is with PD support since they should be getting all the problems and maybe someone else has reported and resolved this issue. Let us know what eventually happens.
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Agreed. I've never had this problem and I've personally have never heard of anyone running into it so i'm out of helpful suggestions. I would do as you are planning. Try a new PC and load everything from scratch but if you are still having the same problem then your only hope to resolve it is with PD support since they should be getting all the problems and maybe someone else has reported and resolved this issue. Let us know what eventually happens.
I opened a ticket with PD as well. I need to collect the logs as I cranked up logging in Calman.
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post #476 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 03:58 PM
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That I have not tried yet, the one laptop is older with AMD GPU, the other is a tablet and uses a Thunderbolt to HDMI so before I try direct again I want my new laptop that will have Intel UHD 620 chipset and a real HDMI port due later this week. I don't think that will help it seems to have issue communicating with the Sony as it says it is updating Bravia and it just times our and says it failed to complete. I am not sure how the Braiva App on the TV handles things, but it sure sounds like communication to the TV and everything is gb connections. I even set TV to wireless to see if that would help and same thing.
It's surely some compatibility issue. I have used mine many times over along with a friends A9G. I have an Intel GPU laptop directly connected via HDMI. The laptop uses WiFi and my TV is Ethernet connected.

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sony LCD Master Series Calibration Thread
My P75-C1 Calibration Settings (5.0.14.1).
Sony XBR-75Z9F, Vizio P75-C1, Pioneer Kuro 5020, Pioneer VSX-1131, XBox One(X), Wii, NVIDIA SHIELD.v1, FireTV 4K-HDR, HDHR Connects, QNAP 431+
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OK it seems either Calman is not communicating to the TV or the TV is just mot responding well. I noticed that one I connect Calman to the Bravia App I still need to change the input to get the PI output to show up. I can pull up the DDC menu and see that all setting are 0, but the first reading and setting dies. See attachements
I had similar issues at first too. Mine was because I was connecting to the TV first rather than go through the workflow. Once I followed the workflow steps page by page (i.e. find meter, find source, pre-cal check, then find tv etc.) it seemed to work. Not sure if it was coincidence or something else, but I had the exact same issue you did where it would hang at that step.

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post #478 of 517 Old 12-01-2019, 06:55 PM
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I had similar issues at first too. Mine was because I was connecting to the TV first rather than go through the workflow. Once I followed the workflow steps page by page (i.e. find meter, find source, pre-cal check, then find tv etc.) it seemed to work. Not sure if it was coincidence or something else, but I had the exact same issue you did where it would hang at that step.
Ah, let me try that. I was connecting envy then starting the workflow. Makes sense that sounds like TV times out.

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post #479 of 517 Old 12-02-2019, 08:12 AM
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(1) With the i1Display meter setup, the walkthrough guides specifically says to use the "OLED" setting for meter mode, while the youtube instructions say RawXYZ is best. Which one is it? Do I also need to enable the Low Light Handler? Use Raw XYZ and the low light handler.

(2) The guides specifically and clearly call for SDR with Power Gamma 2.2 and D65 for setup. OK easy enough, however, in the guide further down there's a sub-bullet that says for OLED to use Gamma formula bt.1886. Which is correct target? My understanding is that I can still do PowerGamma 2.2 and just manually change it later after calibration to 2.4 (or -2 on Sony). For the OLED Gamma 2.2 and BT1886 are essentially the same. Use Gamma 2.2. Yes you can change to 2.4 manually after and the set will recalculate the necessary values.

(3) Measurement options: Sony defaults to de2000, online people are recommending JNDab, the youtube video says ITP....without going into details, what's my best setting with the above? Use ITP for the best accuracy.

(4) Set Contrast to 100 for calibration, bring down to 90 afterwards? Or leave at 90 and AutoCal does it automatically to 100? CM will automatically switch the contrast to 100 when you do the DDC Reset and then switch it back to 90 after the calibration is complete.

(5) I'm assuming the "source" pattern generator settings (like APL, pattern size etc) are set automatically with the AutoCal and Mobileforge and I don't need to touch those? Use 10% window, YCbCr if possible or RGB.
Thanks a ton, very helpful. So basically for #4 (contrast) I don't adjust it at all in the autocal process since CM resets it to 100 and then reverts to 90 after all done.

One more question and I'm all set. A little confused on the luminance section. Let's say I'm targeting 100 nits peak white, as instructed/recommended...the note says to put brightness about 15% higher...

1. So do I put it at 115 nits using the measure button and just set the prompt to 100 nits?

2. When adjusting the brightness at the same section, does it matter if I do it through the DDC button via CM or manually through the TV settings?
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post #480 of 517 Old 12-02-2019, 10:25 AM
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Thanks a ton, very helpful. So basically for #4 (contrast) I don't adjust it at all in the autocal process since CM resets it to 100 and then reverts to 90 after all done.

One more question and I'm all set. A little confused on the luminance section. Let's say I'm targeting 100 nits peak white, as instructed/recommended...the note says to put brightness about 15% higher...

1. So do I put it at 115 nits using the measure button and just set the prompt to 100 nits?

2. When adjusting the brightness at the same section, does it matter if I do it through the DDC button via CM or manually through the TV settings?
Yes and No
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