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post #31 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Why should I set contrast to 90 for SDR? Setting contrast to 90 or 100 or anything actually, results in the exact same graph results in the contrast checker, everything hits 100 and goes flat like my dead grandmother.

I set contrast to 91 for my HDR10 in HCFR, because it assisted in keeping my luminance closer to the curve prior to adjusting 2 and 10 point.

Paul

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
For the Sony, when you calibrate CM sets Contrast to 100% and then resets it back to 90 which is where you should leave it. The contrast layout in CM is to check if the set is clipping. If it is, (it shouldn't be), you can lower the contrast to correct it.

The HDR layout in the workflow is there to validate HDR. You always want to validate to make sure your SDR calibration and automatic HDR offsets are correct. They would have one for Dolby Vision but there are no generators able to trigger it.

Sony X900F SDR and HDR Calibrations https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post57551552
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post #32 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 06:31 AM
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If you use CM autocal, setting the contrast to 100 during calibration will enable the TV to line up with the IREs in the workflow.

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post #33 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 09:03 AM
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HI,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Category 5 View Post
Thanks WiFi Spy. I did as suggested. After getting a little higher error in the final cal than I liked, I went back and tried to get the pre cal closer to flat by adjusting the RGB gain and RGB offset controls first, then the calibration itself got about .6 average delta, and didn't bury the blue and green like it was before.

Dolby Vision and HDR look darker than I'd like, but SOny bases the HDR calibration on the SDR grayscale, and to be honest they were dark to start with.

SDR looks great, and my color balance looks rich and warm now. Even Expert 1 is way too blue/green on my set.

Is HDR and DV designed to be viewed at 2.2 also?
What model year is your Bravia?
As hard as I've tried, I can not make AutoCal to produce any useable results on my 2016 ZD9. Tried the Raw XYZ setting on the meter. Tried all of the meter sync options (Auto, On, Off). Not much difference.
Client3 pattern generator seems to be more useable than the built-in pattern window.
I have no idea what is output from Mac HDMI - whether the ICC profile is applied or not.
The main observations, that I have made:
  1. AutoCal does not take any advantage of Gain and Bias settings, it only acts on the 10 points of RGB Offset
  2. In some slots, it just drives the sliders to Max and then leaves it at that, seemingly unable to achieve any closer match to D65
  3. Every time the CalMan for Bravia DDC app connects, it resets display settings to defaults
  4. Pressing Full erase DDC in CalMan program, does not reset Color setting sliders on Bravia, I have to manually select Reset on the Bravia > Picture > Color menu
Am I still overlooking something?
What else can I try?
I think first thing I will try is to do manual Gain & Bias adjustment prior to letting it autocal.
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post #34 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
HI,What model year is your Bravia?
As hard as I've tried, I can not make AutoCal to produce any useable results on my 2016 ZD9. Tried the Raw XYZ setting on the meter. Tried all of the meter sync options (Auto, On, Off). Not much difference.
Client3 pattern generator seems to be more useable than the built-in pattern window.
I have no idea what is output from Mac HDMI - whether the ICC profile is applied or not.
The main observations, that I have made:
  1. AutoCal does not take any advantage of Gain and Bias settings, it only acts on the 10 points of RGB Offset
  2. In some slots, it just drives the sliders to Max and then leaves it at that, seemingly unable to achieve any closer match to D65
  3. Every time the CalMan for Bravia DDC app connects, it resets display settings to defaults
  4. Pressing Full erase DDC in CalMan program, does not reset Color setting sliders on Bravia, I have to manually select Reset on the Bravia > Picture > Color menu
Am I still overlooking something?
What else can I try?
I think first thing I will try is to do manual Gain & Bias adjustment prior to letting it autocal.
My calibration actually looks quite nice on SDR, it's DV and HDR that seem too dark still. I think it may have to do with the full/limited auto trigger because if I manually select full it looks right on HDR. Sometimes, toggling inputs and going back to Apple TV maked the HDR look better too. Maybe an auto switching bug.

For gain and bias I just used the precal curve and manually adjusted to get as close to flat as I could. Then when i did the autocal for the 10 points the sliders weren't extreme like before. I think the result is pretty much the same visually though. You have to go in and manually enter the gain/bias on every input and mode, but the 10 point will already be there.

My Calman app doesn't reset anything unless I press reset, My TV is a 2018 65x900e. I am using HDMI out and the pattern window for my target. I am using the default size (10%) and I am not applying any icc profile on the output. I set it to RGB limited, as wifi spy recommended. I did the calibration at full brightness, with the "use measured luminance" option checked, but may retry later to 200ire white or so (we view in a lit room) and see if I get more brightness for HDR by doing that.

Meter is an i1 Display pro se to LCD(LED) since I can't get an answer on whether RGB or Blue/Green would be more correct. Results don't seem drastically different.

@Anderegg , you should not be trying to calibrate HDR if you are using 900f. Sony remaps it automatically. Also, delta-E .2 vs .5 would be imperceptible to the human eye. I think you should be more focused on what looks better. Not saying HCFR is worse or better, just that the difference in delta-e shouldn't be the decider.

I really think spectracal should have a doc that specifies specific settings for each sony set supported. Also, they should have a setup workflow using HDMI output of the laptop, since most people buying calman home will not have a separate pattern source and will be using the computer. There are way too many variable between installing the software and getting a decent calibration, without doing a ton of research and trial/error. For a "home edition" product at that price they need to improve that aspect.

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post #35 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 11:12 AM - Thread Starter
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The problem I have with Sony "remapping" anything correctly, is that they ship out uncalibrated TV's that are not 2.2 power law, not BT.1886, and definitely not D65...so they cannot be trusted to remap a luminance curve from SDR to HDR when they are shipping TV's with remapping based on a flawed SDR calibration.

I calibrate my HDR to meet luminance curve nit at 10%-65%, and at 80%-100%...I let the rolloff area be as rolled off as possible rather than forcing those adjustments to the max stops.

Paul


Quote:
Originally Posted by Category 5 View Post
My calibration actually looks quite nice on SDR, it's DV and HDR that seem too dark still. I think it may have to do with the full/limited auto trigger because if I manually select full it looks right on HDR. Sometimes, toggling inputs and going back to Apple TV maked the HDR look better too. Maybe an auto switching bug.

For gain and bias I just used the precal curve and manually adjusted to get as close to flat as I could. Then when i did the autocal for the 10 points the sliders weren't extreme like before. I think the result is pretty much the same visually though. You have to go in and manually enter the gain/bias on every input and mode, but the 10 point will already be there.

My Calman app doesn't reset anything unless I press reset, My TV is a 2018 65x900e. I am using HDMI out and the pattern window for my target. I am using the default size (10%) and I am not applying any icc profile on the output. I set it to RGB limited, as wifi spy recommended. I did the calibration at full brightness, with the "use measured luminance" option checked, but may retry later to 200ire white or so (we view in a lit room) and see if I get more brightness for HDR by doing that.

Meter is an i1 Display pro se to LCD(LED) since I can't get an answer on whether RGB or Blue/Green would be more correct. Results don't seem drastically different.

@Anderegg , you should not be trying to calibrate HDR if you are using 900f. Sony remaps it automatically. Also, delta-E .2 vs .5 would be imperceptible to the human eye. I think you should be more focused on what looks better. Not saying HCFR is worse or better, just that the difference in delta-e shouldn't be the decider.

I really think spectracal should have a doc that specifies specific settings for each sony set supported. Also, they should have a setup workflow using HDMI output of the laptop, since most people buying calman home will not have a separate pattern source and will be using the computer. There are way too many variable between installing the software and getting a decent calibration, without doing a ton of research and trial/error. For a "home edition" product at that price they need to improve that aspect.

Sony X900F SDR and HDR Calibrations https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-l...l#post57551552
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post #36 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anderegg View Post
The problem I have with Sony "remapping" anything correctly, is that they ship out uncalibrated TV's that are not 2.2 power law, not BT.1886, and definitely not D65...so they cannot be trusted to remap a luminance curve from SDR to HDR when they are shipping TV's with remapping based on a flawed SDR calibration.



I calibrate my HDR to meet luminance curve nit at 10%-65%, and at 80%-100%...I let the rolloff area be as rolled off as possible rather than forcing those adjustments to the max stops.



Paul


You can disagree with how Sony has designed their TVs to work, but when you deviate from the recommendation for calibration process, you are kind on your own. There is nothing wrong with that.
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post #37 of 209 Old 05-12-2019, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Category 5 View Post
For a "home edition" product at that price they need to improve that aspect.
Was it any different for the $399 CalMan Home (or was it Enthusiast)?
For the Client3 that can be used as pattern generator, there is a setup guide available, but it does not describe any of the HDMI output implications.
Client3 also does not want to use any of the other display profiles already created or present on the computer.
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post #38 of 209 Old 05-16-2019, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post
This is for the previous Bravia workflow, not the new CalMAN Home one.

I am personally recording a tutorial video next week, so it will be on our YouTube page coming very soon.
Have you completed the Tutorial Video yet? I could not find it.
I have no experience with calibration, and am unsure what to do with the steps in the "CalMAN Home for Sony Walkthrough" document (May 3) where AutoCal does not support my X900F (e.g. Step 7 Colorspace, Step 8 Dynamic Range).
I am very much looking forward to the video.
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post #39 of 209 Old 05-16-2019, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayneB2 View Post
Have you completed the Tutorial Video yet? I could not find it.

I have no experience with calibration, and am unsure what to do with the steps in the "CalMAN Home for Sony Walkthrough" document (May 3) where AutoCal does not support my X900F (e.g. Step 7 Colorspace, Step 8 Dynamic Range).

I am very much looking forward to the video.

...Wayne


I will be recording the Sony Videos tomorrow. It should take about a week or two to edit the videos after they are recorded.

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post #40 of 209 Old 05-17-2019, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by WiFi-Spy View Post
I will be recording the Sony Videos tomorrow. It should take about a week or two to edit the videos after they are recorded.
Perfect!
Perhaps you could show how to do a step manually, then compare to doing it with AutoCal. Please also comment on what to expect on TV sets, like X900F, that don't have CMS for some steps. Thanks.

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post #41 of 209 Old 05-19-2019, 03:35 AM
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Latest CalMan build 50 seems to give me much better results, than I was able to get previously.
Or maybe the change to dE2000 JNDab algorithm, as was suggested in the quick reference guide helped?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CalMan with Autocal for Sony BRAVIA 2018 Quick Reference Guide
We recommend setting the AutoCal dE Formula to "dE2000 JNDab" for best results.
I wonder how shall I go about the HDR calibration validation after I've come through the Bravia SDR workflow?
Is there a specific reason, why the referred to HDR Analysis workflow is not available in CalMan Home 2019??

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalMan with Autocal for Sony BRAVIA 2018 Quick Reference Guide
HDR Calibration
Sony displays automatically scale SDR picture mode(s) into the HDR picture mode(s).
Calibrations applied in SDR mode automatically apply to HDR. Direct calibration of HDR picture modes is not necessary.
• The calibration of SDR (2.2 Gamma, D65, Rec 709) is automatically applied to HDR and other gamma formulas.
• You can validate it by changing CalMAN and your Pattern Generator to HDR settings (2.2 Gamma, D65, BT.2020, and retaking all the measurements by Read Series.
• HDR Compatible Pattern Generator required for validation
• VideoForge PRO
• Murideo Six-G
• You can do so in the Validation section of this workflow, but for checking HDR, we highly recommend you to use HDR Analysis workflow instead.
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post #42 of 209 Old 05-24-2019, 10:35 AM
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What's the proper gamma setting on the A9F post-calibration? I targeted 2.2 and notice that during calibration gamma is set to 0, but the default setting is -2 and that's what it reverts to after calibration. Does -2 coincide with 2.2?

And despite targeting 2.2, viewing the gamma test pattern on the Disney WOW disc indicates a gamma significantly lower than 2.2. Can I trust this test pattern (and my eyes) or should I assume CalMAN got it right?
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post #43 of 209 Old 05-24-2019, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdkind View Post
What's the proper gamma setting on the A9F post-calibration? I targeted 2.2 and notice that during calibration gamma is set to 0, but the default setting is -2 and that's what it reverts to after calibration. Does -2 coincide with 2.2?

And despite targeting 2.2, viewing the gamma test pattern on the Disney WOW disc indicates a gamma significantly lower than 2.2. Can I trust this test pattern (and my eyes) or should I assume CalMAN got it right?
With the new Sony's you can calibrate at gamma 2.2 and then select 2.2 or 2.4 or whatever gamma you want. The TV will calculate the correct offsets for the gamma you use post calibration. You can get a little more accuracy calibrating with gamma 2.4 if that's what you intend to use.
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post #44 of 209 Old 05-24-2019, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
With the new Sony's you can calibrate at gamma 2.2 and then select 2.2 or 2.4 or whatever gamma you want. The TV will calculate the correct offsets for the gamma you use post calibration. You can get a little more accuracy calibrating with gamma 2.4 if that's what you intend to use.
Right, I gathered this from reading the various A9F threads. My concern is that the gamma test pattern I'm looking at says it's way below 2.2, and even if I crank the gamma to max, it's still not quite 2.2, let alone 2.4. And since we have cryptic labels like "-2" instead of actual gamma values, I have no way of knowing what setting corresponds to what target gamma.

So what setting do a I choose for 2.2, and can I trust that CalMAN got it to 2.2 like it claims and ignore the visual test pattern I'm using? If so, why is the visual test pattern so far off?
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post #45 of 209 Old 05-24-2019, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdkind View Post
Right, I gathered this from reading the various A9F threads. My concern is that the gamma test pattern I'm looking at says it's way below 2.2, and even if I crank the gamma to max, it's still not quite 2.2, let alone 2.4. And since we have cryptic labels like "-2" instead of actual gamma values, I have no way of knowing what setting corresponds to what target gamma.

So what setting do a I choose for 2.2, and can I trust that CalMAN got it to 2.2 like it claims and ignore the visual test pattern I'm using? If so, why is the visual test pattern so far off?
On the Sony 0 = 2.2, -2 = 2.4

If you are still getting weird results then double check to make sure your TPG is sending RGB limited not full to the set. If it's ok then e-mail PD support with all your information and they will tell you what's wrong.
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post #46 of 209 Old 05-24-2019, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
On the Sony 0 = 2.2, -2 = 2.4

If you are still getting weird results then double check to make sure your TPG is sending RGB limited not full to the set. If it's ok then e-mail PD support with all your information and they will tell you what's wrong.
Thanks for clarifying the gamma settings. That's helpful.

I'm using CalMAN's internal pattern generator on my laptop's HDMI output set up using WiFi-Spy's recommended settings (RGB Full, "Expand built-in patterns to PC levels" unchecked, and display set to RGB Limited) and everything looks correct.

I'm happy with the resulting image quality. Pre-calibration I saw a lot of compression artifacts and pulsing/flashing in certain material (GoT) and that's gone now. I'm finding 2.2 gamma is good for daytime viewing and 2.4 is good in a dark room (2.2 reveals too many artifacts in lower-quality material).

I just find it odd that the Disney WOW gamma test pattern indicates the gamma is too low, but I've seen all kinds of things affect how that pattern looks, including sharpness settings and scaling (this is a 1080p pattern). It never looked correct on my Kuro either.
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post #47 of 209 Old 05-25-2019, 10:20 AM
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I almost bought this today for my ZD9 (or Z9D as you folks know it) but noticed just in time that Autocal for the CMS doesn't work for that model.......arghhhh!!

Last edited by Paul Butler; 05-25-2019 at 10:29 AM.
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post #48 of 209 Old 05-25-2019, 11:41 AM
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I almost bought this today for my ZD9 (or Z9D as you folks know it) but noticed just in time that Autocal for the CMS doesn't work for that model.......arghhhh!!
Because the Z9D doesn't have CMS controls.
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post #49 of 209 Old 05-25-2019, 02:37 PM
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Because the Z9D doesn't have CMS controls.
I just checked, you're right! Thats a real surprise, I didn't know that.
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post #50 of 209 Old 05-25-2019, 08:28 PM
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I just checked, you're right! Thats a real surprise, I didn't know that.
The real surprise is that Sony opened up CMS on the F series.
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post #51 of 209 Old 05-26-2019, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Butler View Post
I almost bought this today for my ZD9 (or Z9D as you folks know it) but noticed just in time that Autocal for the CMS doesn't work for that model.......arghhhh!!
It works only for grayscale and only with 10 points.
Adjusting Saturation to 55 and Hue to R1, I was able to drive the color checker points a little closer, but closer than that I can not get.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...2&d=1557677271
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post #52 of 209 Old 05-26-2019, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
It works only for grayscale and only with 10 points.
Adjusting Saturation to 55 and Hue to R1, I was able to drive the color checker points a little closer, but closer than that I can not get.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attac...2&d=1557677271
Well I ended up buying it, have mild buyers regret at the moment I must admit. The color checker crashes everytime I try to use it, that plus I too have had some difficulty using Calman and also been getting some corruption onscreen when using it with my laptop. Not the best of starts.

No idea whats causing all this, that plus the fact my own calibrations using HCFR weren't that far off to begin with have annoyed me and the improvement didn't justify the cost.....! YMMV of course.
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post #53 of 209 Old 05-26-2019, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
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Well I ended up buying it, have mild buyers regret at the moment I must admit. The color checker crashes everytime I try to use it, that plus I too have had some difficulty using Calman and also been getting some corruption onscreen when using it with my laptop. Not the best of starts.

No idea whats causing all this, that plus the fact my own calibrations using HCFR weren't that far off to begin with have annoyed me and the improvement didn't justify the cost.....! YMMV of course.
What pattern generator are you using? I went with Client3.
But now I have the feeling something is amiss on that end and I will have to run some measurements again.
AFAIK IRE16 should look pitch black on SDR screen. When I set up the 16 patch in Grayscale Multipoint step of workflow, I see dark grey window on my screen.
Prior to CalMan, I also used HCFR and my post-calibration measurements were much closer to level, than now.
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post #54 of 209 Old 05-26-2019, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
What pattern generator are you using? I went with Client3.
But now I have the feeling something is amiss on that end and I will have to run some measurements again.
AFAIK IRE16 should look pitch black on SDR screen. When I set up the 16 patch in Grayscale Multipoint step of workflow, I see dark grey window on my screen.
Prior to CalMan, I also used HCFR and my post-calibration measurements were much closer to level, than now.
Hi Priitv8!

I used the pattern generator thats built-in to Calman Home. End results, at least for SDR are very good. I'm at work just now and can't recall exactly but you need to press a button in the Source Tab, something like Show Pattern or some such. If you are using a laptop you'll need to Extend The Screen so the extended screen shows on the TV and Calman screen remains on the laptop....you'll figure it out.

The dark grey window is (if I am understanding you correctly) the result of Local Dimming being switched off whilst you are using Calman Home. Once you complete the calibration the Local Dimming should switch back on (or maybe you need to do it yourself) and black will be black again.

Where I run into problems is with Dolby Vision, the calibrated result looks awful , its way too dark (funnily enough HDR looks fine but I need to check/test it a bit more with some patterns etc and DV may simply be more accurate but looks odd if you know what I mean).

Check this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...on-thread.html for a lot more info than you'll ever need!

All in all, it does what it says in the box. Is it worth the money......yes I think so, although for the ZD9 you miss out on CMS calibration which is not Calmans fault. I think the Calman Home interface is maybe a bit overwhelming for home use but the speed, simplicity and accuracy it has does make it a valuable tool for home calibrations.

I think I need to take more time to learn Calman to get the best out of it. Is it better than my own calibration using HCFR? For SDR probably about the same but for opening up HDR and DV so that I no longer have to keep switching from (say) Custom home for SDR to Custom Pro for HDR, its excellent!

Just need to nail DV and sort out the crashing Color Checker.....!

One last thing, Calman Home did a calibration on my ZD9 in about 15 minutes that quite frankly took me probably the equivalent of a good few days, maybe weeks (spread over a couple years) to get close to.......it'll save buyers a lot of hassle and time.

Last edited by Paul Butler; 05-26-2019 at 11:49 PM.
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post #55 of 209 Old 05-27-2019, 06:30 AM
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With the Sony Autocal is manipulating the user controls so once Autocal is done, you can always go in and make any manual tweaks if needed. A lot of calibrators use Autocal to quickly reduce the errors then go in and manually make any changes. It saves a lot of time and with CM Autocal, you are using the correct gray scale IRE's which match what the set is looking for vs the plain 10pt which also gives you a more accurate result.
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post #56 of 209 Old 05-27-2019, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Butler View Post
I used the pattern generator thats built-in to Calman Home. End results, at least for SDR are very good. I'm at work just now and can't recall exactly but you need to press a button in the Source Tab, something like Show Pattern or some such. If you are using a laptop you'll need to Extend The Screen so the extended screen shows on the TV and Calman screen remains on the laptop....you'll figure it out.
Yes, I also tried the internal generator, but I found the Client3 works better and I hoped it is closer to macOS hardware, eliminating the Parallels VM inbetween.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Butler View Post
The dark grey window is (if I am understanding you correctly) the result of Local Dimming being switched off whilst you are using Calman Home. Once you complete the calibration the Local Dimming should switch back on (or maybe you need to do it yourself) and black will be black again.
I will do some measurements to illustrate, bur IRE16 needs to be black level with all image enhancements disabled. Thats the basis of brightness control. Showing that patch from AVS test bluray indeed gives me black. Showing it from my MacBook Pro, gives me dark grey.
Quote:
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Where I run into problems is with Dolby Vision, the calibrated result looks awful , its way too dark (funnily enough HDR looks fine but I need to check/test it a bit more with some patterns etc and DV may simply be more accurate but looks odd if you know what I mean).
Where do you get Dolby Vision test patterns/signal from?
Quote:
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One last thing, Calman Home did a calibration on my ZD9 in about 15 minutes that quite frankly took me probably the equivalent of a good few days, maybe weeks (spread over a couple years) to get close to.......it'll save buyers a lot of hassle and time.
Well, what bothers me, is that I only get results as shown in my post #33 above. They are way too off from what I would call a good result. As a matter of fact, the pre-cal measurement looked better than post-cal :/
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post #57 of 209 Old 05-28-2019, 06:10 AM
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Ah I forgot you have a Mac, is there an Intel chip inside or an Nvidia card? I think you can only use the built-in patterns if your laptop or Mac has one or other of these. I think you will have to eliminate the VM from the chain as well, I don't think that helps.

Level 16 was a dark grayish blue on my ZD9 when using Calman, in fact the whole screen was a dark grayish blue until the calibration was complete (and I'd disconnected comms from my laptop to the Z9D if I remember correctly). Your Mac/Calman will be telling the Z9D to switch off Local Dimming which will cause the screen to look dark grayish, the Bluray player won't be doing that so the pattern will look black.

I only have HDR test patterns, I use R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns - see this thread here https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...-patterns.html . I think they cost about $20 or something but they are well worth the investment. I checked HDR black levels using that software and they were spot on, Calman says that both HDR and DV setting are drived from SDR settings and my SDR and HDR calibrations look really good. Only way to check DV is by comparing it to an HDR version of a movie or something. Not the most accurate test but it'll give an idea if its right or not. Certainly Birdbox on Netflix looked way too dark as did a couple other DV movies but I need time to test and tweak.

Only things i can think that might be causing your calibration problem is maybe the Mac isn't outputting the correct signal to the ZD9 (Limited instead of Full maybe?)or maybe a problem with your Color Meter perhaps. What meter are you using? Can you try another laptop perhaps (not sure about Licensing issues though)?

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post #58 of 209 Old 05-28-2019, 11:26 AM
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My MBP has nVidia GeForce GT 650M. Because Client3 is available as native macOS app, I was hoping it can take care of clean HDMI output. I can not be sure, unfortunately.
So here are my measurements. All Picture settings have been reset - Color reset (Gain, Bias, Offsets), Brightness (backlight) Max, Contrast 90. All settings reset on TV and prior to any measurements. So both inputs should receive equal treatment.

I also have R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns, but I don't think it will make any sense to validate them until I get my SDR cal right.
To eliminate HDMI distortion by Mac, I will run one manual calibration with patterns from AVS disc.
I was under impression, I should keep HDMI output limited (16-235) should I rather try full range?
My meter is X-Rite i1 Display Pro (also visible on the screenshots below).
I can try another laptop, with Win 10. Just to understand if there is any difference. CalMan homepage insists, that Mac users can safely run the software inside a VM.

Here you can see, that Mac HDMI creates much (10x!) brighter IRE16 patch, than the AVS bluray disc. In contrast, IRE235 patch is darker:
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post #59 of 209 Old 05-28-2019, 12:54 PM
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Mac graphics card should be set to Full range, Sony set to Limited 16-235

Brightness should not be set to max, should be around 10 maybe. Black level should be 50.
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post #60 of 209 Old 05-29-2019, 10:40 PM
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Do you guys, find any bug with the "read series" function in HDR ? it works perfectly for me in SDR, but in HDR i have to restart calman Home for Panasonic a lot of time before it works ... I send an email to the technical support but : no response
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