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post #1171 of 1191 Old 06-14-2020, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
For software, Pro Plus appears just like the Pro. So CalMan works with both

Is the 1display pro good enough for Autocal Sony 65" 9ZF or would it be worth it to go with the 1display pro plus?


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post #1172 of 1191 Old 06-14-2020, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by apav554 View Post
Is the 1display pro good enough for Autocal Sony 65" 9ZF or would it be worth it to go with the 1display pro plus?





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post #1173 of 1191 Old 06-15-2020, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by apav554 View Post
Is the 1display pro good enough for Autocal Sony 65" 9ZF or would it be worth it to go with the 1display pro plus?
As far as I know, the Pro has 1000nit and Pro Plus 2000nit measuring range.
Purely for calibration/autocal 1000 is plenty, as Sony Bravias are only calibrated in SDR mode.
For measuring and validating HDR modes, it depends. I do not know the max brightness Z9F can produce, but my Z9D can reach 1800nits so I sold my Pro and got the Pro Plus.
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post #1174 of 1191 Old 06-15-2020, 12:55 PM
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I'm not sure where to ask this so I'll ask it here.

What exactly, technically, does black adjust and extended dynamic range do?

From my experimenting, they tend to work with local dimming to help mitigate blooming. But I really don't know what Sony's intention for these were. I sort of understand extended dynamic range based on what little information Sony gives, but I'm not sure what black adjust does.

I know I can just "leave it off" or "just do what you think looks good bro" but I feel like having a basic understanding of them and how they work together can help me determine if and when they should be used.
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post #1175 of 1191 Old 06-15-2020, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NextGen View Post
I'm not sure where to ask this so I'll ask it here.

What exactly, technically, does black adjust and extended dynamic range do?

From my experimenting, they tend to work with local dimming to help mitigate blooming. But I really don't know what Sony's intention for these were. I sort of understand extended dynamic range based on what little information Sony gives, but I'm not sure what black adjust does.

I know I can just "leave it off" or "just do what you think looks good bro" but I feel like having a basic understanding of them and how they work together can help me determine if and when they should be used.
Black adjust takes the last couple of black bars in the greyscale ramp and makes them blacker and the ramp is more pronounced for lack of a better word, so you have less of a gradual ramp and more dark black. This can be helpful with lower quality content that may have lifted black levels or milky/grey look. For example, I use it when I watch sports from cable TV to give it a little more punch picture quality.

The extended dynamic range sort of does the opposite, or "stretches it out" and can be used with SDR content to provide a little more range from the blackest black to the highest peak white. It is almost like a pseudo HDR and can make the picture look a little more punchy and the white levels can look sharper instead of clipped because it extends them to use the TV's capabilities. It can work good with animated movies or cartoons, or certain movies.
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post #1176 of 1191 Old 06-15-2020, 02:04 PM
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Hello,

Looking for a bit of advice. I have a Chromapure and a Calman license. I also have a meter that was profiled for use in Chromapure. Would it be possible to do an autocal in Calman and then compare the results to the profiled readings in Chromapure and then produce offsets to use for Calman autocal runs?

I know I could do it all manually in Chromapure, but with 20 points of adjustment and CMS changes I'd rather I could do it automatically.

I have a Sony AG9 OLED.

Thanks in advance for any advice/assistance.
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post #1177 of 1191 Old 06-15-2020, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sjy1969 View Post
Hello,

Looking for a bit of advice. I have a Chromapure and a Calman license. I also have a meter that was profiled for use in Chromapure. Would it be possible to do an autocal in Calman and then compare the results to the profiled readings in Chromapure and then produce offsets to use for Calman autocal runs?

I know I could do it all manually in Chromapure, but with 20 points of adjustment and CMS changes I'd rather I could do it automatically.

I have a Sony AG9 OLED.

Thanks in advance for any advice/assistance.

Yes. You can apply a global meter “screen offset” in Calman.


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post #1178 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
The extended dynamic range sort of does the opposite, or "stretches it out" and can be used with SDR content to provide a little more range from the blackest black to the highest peak white. It is almost like a pseudo HDR and can make the picture look a little more punchy and the white levels can look sharper instead of clipped because it extends them to use the TV's capabilities. It can work good with animated movies or cartoons, or certain movies.
I have the observation, that EDR will also increase top brightness in HDR mode.
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post #1179 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
I have the observation, that EDR will also increase top brightness in HDR mode.
Well, EDR should always be on High/Max when watching HDR anyway

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post #1180 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 09:18 AM
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Well, EDR should always be on High/Max when watching HDR anyway
Exactly. When the display switches to a HDR picture mode like Dolby Vision, Brightness and Contrast are set to Max, Gamma switches to zero, both Black Adjust and Advanced Contrast are set to zero, and X-tended Dynamic Range is set to High. These are automatic changes requiring no action by the viewer.
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post #1181 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbz06 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by priitv8 View Post
I have the observation, that EDR will also increase top brightness in HDR mode.
Well, EDR should always be on High/Max when watching HDR anyway [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
It's just so aggravating. I'm playing Rise of the Tomb Raider for PC (an SDR game) and there are sections where it just looks jaw dropping with xdr and local dimming on. Then other sections, especially where there is mist or haze, that can leave it a little washed out and hard to see shadow detail. However, leaving all enhancements off tends to kill that realism and depth.

I'm wondering if I should just go back and recalibrate the TV at higher nits, like 300 instead of 100/200. Or if I should just take a chill pill and use local dimming on medium and xdr on low.

Which bring me to another question. Is local dimming supposed to be always on?
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post #1182 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 09:41 AM
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Which bring me to another question. Is local dimming supposed to be always on?
IMO, yes. Typically set to Medium. High doesn’t seem to change much.
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post #1183 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 11:59 AM
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This might sound dumb, but I simply turned up the black level setting from 50 to about 56/57 and nearly all my issues seemed to have resolved. It reminds me of the sub brightness service code setting on my old Sony CRT. I had thought simply adjusting brightness within the games would help but that just introduced other issues. Not really sure what black level is supposed to do, but it did the trick for PC games. I get good shadow detail and highlight detail with that CRT like depth. Probably the wrong way to go about it, but if it works out works.
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post #1184 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NextGen View Post
It's just so aggravating. I'm playing Rise of the Tomb Raider for PC (an SDR game) and there are sections where it just looks jaw dropping with xdr and local dimming on. Then other sections, especially where there is mist or haze, that can leave it a little washed out and hard to see shadow detail. However, leaving all enhancements off tends to kill that realism and depth.

I'm wondering if I should just go back and recalibrate the TV at higher nits, like 300 instead of 100/200. Or if I should just take a chill pill and use local dimming on medium and xdr on low.

Which bring me to another question. Is local dimming supposed to be always on?
That's how the game is supposed to look during those sections.

Local Dimming should always be kept On (default is medium). Doesn't matter SDR or HDR. The EDR setting should always be High with HDR content, and with SDR content it's all preference. Personally I kept it on Low for SDR because I liked the effect, and only disabled it for "critical" viewing.

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post #1185 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 01:28 PM
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That's how the game is supposed to look during those sections.

the subdued look and everything yes, but I guess i should have used the term crushed instead. It's as if someone forgot to add some ambient or bounce lights and all you see is a silhouette with no detail.
Bumping up the black level a few notches, anywhere from 55-60, seems to correct these issues with every game I've tried so far, SDR or HDR. Either my set needed this for whatever reason from the factory or it's just a personal preference from my CRT days.

Either way, what a nice tv.
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post #1186 of 1191 Old 06-16-2020, 10:51 PM
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When the display switches to a HDR picture mode like Dolby Vision, Brightness and Contrast are set to Max, Gamma switches to zero, both Black Adjust and Advanced Contrast are set to zero, and X-tended Dynamic Range is set to High. These are automatic changes requiring no action by the viewer.
But one can trim them controls down manually, and they will be remembered. Separately for HDR and DoVi modes.
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post #1187 of 1191 Old 06-22-2020, 08:06 PM
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Do you have, or have you tried, bias lighting? One of the benefits of bias lighting is that it reduces the abrupt transition between a bright screen and a dark background, making it much easier on the eyes. IMO, it is a game-changer.
Thanks for the tip. I do have some mild bias lighting that works great for SDR, but it doesn't do much to mitigate the scorching brightness of HDR in a darker room.

I've recently taken to dropping the Peak Luminance setting to Medium instead of High in HDR. I know this probably isn't "correct", but it makes film-based content look more like I imagine it should instead of the over-the-top cartoonish look it often has, and it provides the added benefit of restoring some of the clipped highlight detail resulting from Sony's tone mapping (A9F OLED).

I watched Starship Troopers the other night, which was always a bright, contrasty presentation in SDR, but in HDR it's just out of control.
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post #1188 of 1191 Old 07-05-2020, 08:31 AM
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So I finally got my x-rite Ipro meter and paid the calman home license fee. Do I need the client 3 as well for the patterns?

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post #1189 of 1191 Old 07-07-2020, 11:07 PM
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So I finally got my x-rite Ipro meter and paid the calman home license fee. Do I need the client 3 as well for the patterns?

Yes, just download and install on your laptop.

Last edited by Paul Butler; 07-07-2020 at 11:12 PM.
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post #1190 of 1191 Old 07-08-2020, 10:28 PM
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Yes, just download and install on your laptop.
Doesn't CalMan sport a built-in pattern generator?
I remember having used it before switching over to a more handy free tool PGenerator
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post #1191 of 1191 Old 07-09-2020, 02:47 AM
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Doesn't CalMan sport a built-in pattern generator?
I remember having used it before switching over to a more handy free tool PGenerator
Yes, it does. IIRC you would only need client3 if the PC displaying the patterns is a different PC on your network to the one which has Calman installed on it.
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