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post #1171 of 1904 Old 02-01-2020, 11:17 PM
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Dolby Vision calibration does work and patterns can be sent from a notebook Intel GPU HDMI output with 1080p patterns controlled by CalMAN Home.

As an FYI, there is also a Dolby Vision Manual Calibration Workflow available to CalMAN Home for LG, this is available as part of the Legacy Workflow download, and is the only Workflow in that set which is compatible with Home for LG.

As @Rolls-Royce says, it is finicky and will sometimes work and sometimes not. For me, on my bedroom C7, my daughters C8 and my main C9 it works without fail each and every time. It took me a lot of fiddling to get going initially, and it will only work if your GPU output is bit definitely accurate.

You cannot just enable DV on a device such as the FireStick, ATV 4K or Sony X700 to force Dolby Vision. The patterns have to be genuine DV patterns and further to this, the TV has to be set between Relative and Absolute modes at various points throughout.

Check here for the write up that Royce mentioned, but be aware that it was performed using an Integral 4:4:4 600 Mhz and not an Integral 2 so there are some differences in the way things are set up.

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post #1172 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 12:33 AM
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Further to my above post, here are some tips on how you can generate 1080p DV patterns from your Intel iGPU using CalMAN Home. Please note that it has been quite some time since I last actually did this, so some steps may be missed or in the wrong order, but if memory serves me right, it should be correct.

The first thing to do is to make sure your GPU settings are correct. Everything needs to be set at 1080p both on your monitor and HDMI output. There can be no colour management or ICC files in place on your monitor and no display scaling either. Just reset everything to default if either are the case, and then double check in display settings that scaling is 100% as it is often set to 125% to help with text size by default.

Connect your HDMI out to the TOP HDMI in (1) of the Integral 2, and then from the TOP HDMI out (OUT1-1080) to the TV input. At this point, open your GPU settings panel and make sure all is reset to default to ensure any colour management is also removed there and make sure it is set to extended display. Select 1920 x 1080 resolution, 24Hz refresh rate, Maintain Display Scaling and RGB Full output.

Do a FULL RESET on the Integral using the HD Fury GUI. If you have it configured for other use, back up the config first to be able to reload after. Unlock the unit using the key press trick (refer to HD Fury for instructions). Slider settings are HDCP - 1.4, EDID - Automix, Scale - No Scaling. In the GUI, in the first EDID tab, make sure 2020/xcYcc is checked. If I remember correctly, this is the only one necessary but feel free to experiment selecting anything else that relates to HDR in this section if the following steps fail. Close the GUI for now.

Open CalMAN, load a DV Workflow, and progress to the Hardware/Pattern select screen but go no further. In CalMAN Source Settings, Open Pattern Window and drag to your extended display. Double Click to full screen. Back on the CalMAN screen it will ask you to set DV Metadata to Relative Mode. Ignore this and set it to ABSOLUTE. This is found in the Source Settings drop down under HDR Mode.

Re open HD Fury GUI, select the AVI/VSI IF tab, and in the the Custom Vendor Specific In box, copy/paste the following string. DO NOT SEND IF YET.

81:01:18:36:03:0c:00:20:01:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00 :00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00

In CalMAN, click Next where you should now see the Red background with a Yellow patch appear on screen. As soon as this appears on your display, return to the HD Fury GUI and send the IF you just pasted as quickly as possible. The screen should go black, and a white patch should appear with the Dolby Vision pop-up.

You can now switch between Relative and Absolute Metadata Modes at will and as the workflow requests.

If you get the Dolby Vision pop-up, but the screen remains only black, your iGPU is either still wrongly configured, or is not bit accurate.

This works for me with an Intel HD 620 integrated GPU each and every time, without fail.

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post #1173 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 03:41 AM
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Thanks for that. I'll give it a try later today.

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post #1174 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
Further to my above post, here are some tips on how you can generate 1080p DV patterns from your Intel iGPU using CalMAN Home. Please note that it has been quite some time since I last actually did this, so some steps may be missed or in the wrong order, but if memory serves me right, it should be correct.

The first thing to do is to make sure your GPU settings are correct. Everything needs to be set at 1080p both on your monitor and HDMI output. There can be no colour management or ICC files in place on your monitor and no display scaling either. Just reset everything to default if either are the case, and then double check in display settings that scaling is 100% as it is often set to 125% to help with text size by default.

Connect your HDMI out to the TOP HDMI in (1) of the Integral 2, and then from the TOP HDMI out (OUT1-1080) to the TV input. At this point, open your GPU settings panel and make sure all is reset to default to ensure any colour management is also removed there and make sure it is set to extended display. Select 1920 x 1080 resolution, 24Hz refresh rate, Maintain Display Scaling and RGB Full output.

Do a FULL RESET on the Integral using the HD Fury GUI. If you have it configured for other use, back up the config first to be able to reload after. Unlock the unit using the key press trick (refer to HD Fury for instructions). Slider settings are HDCP - 1.4, EDID - Automix, Scale - No Scaling. In the GUI, in the first EDID tab, make sure 2020/xcYcc is checked. If I remember correctly, this is the only one necessary but feel free to experiment selecting anything else that relates to HDR in this section if the following steps fail. Close the GUI for now.

Open CalMAN, load a DV Workflow, and progress to the Hardware/Pattern select screen but go no further. In CalMAN Source Settings, Open Pattern Window and drag to your extended display. Double Click to full screen. Back on the CalMAN screen it will ask you to set DV Metadata to Relative Mode. Ignore this and set it to ABSOLUTE. This is found in the Source Settings drop down under HDR Mode.

Re open HD Fury GUI, select the AVI/VSI IF tab, and in the the Custom Vendor Specific In box, copy/paste the following string. DO NOT SEND IF YET.

81:01:18:36:03:0c:00:20:01:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00 :00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00:00

In CalMAN, click Next where you should now see the Red background with a Yellow patch appear on screen. As soon as this appears on your display, return to the HD Fury GUI and send the IF you just pasted as quickly as possible. The screen should go black, and a white patch should appear with the Dolby Vision pop-up.

You can now switch between Relative and Absolute Metadata Modes at will and as the workflow requests.

If you get the Dolby Vision pop-up, but the screen remains only black, your iGPU is either still wrongly configured, or is not bit accurate.

This works for me with an Intel HD 620 integrated GPU each and every time, without fail.
When I did DV on my C7 quite a while ago, I found two places where scaling happened in the Win10 display on my laptop (Macbook running Bootcamp). I had to be certain both of these were 100% and no scaling or I would not got the DV to pass through. (C7 screen stayed on the orange and yellow pattern)
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post #1175 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon65 View Post
When I did DV on my C7 quite a while ago, I found two places where scaling happened in the Win10 display on my laptop (Macbook running Bootcamp). I had to be certain both of these were 100% and no scaling or I would not got the DV to pass through. (C7 screen stayed on the orange and yellow pattern)
Correct, which is why I said double check Display Scaling is 100% (which is no scaling), and within the Intel iGPU settings to make sure Maintain Display Scaling is selected. This is normally the two places that needs to be checked, although various OEM builds of Win 10 may also have additional hidden settings elsewhere. No display scaling is crucial to getting DV patterns to work correctly.
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post #1176 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 09:41 AM
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Oh what fun. LOL I'll try it later. Watching a movie (non-DV) at the moment. Thanks for the tips, guys! Much appreciated!

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post #1177 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Strange. Tons in the PDF on https://www.hgig.org/ at the bottom: For Better HDR Gaming (PDF) . Lots of discussion here on AVS too. Wonder why you didn't find any of it!



It tells the TV to a "hard clip" with no tonemapping, so that the game is 100% on control of Tone Mapping within the game's engine. See the PDF linked on their page.

Sorry, to clarify, I didn't mean that I didn't find anything, just that I didn't find anything that seemed to answer my question.

If I turn on HGiG, and a game doesn't support it or isn't sending the metadata, do (we know if) my custom tone curves set in auto-cal get ignored?

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post #1178 of 1904 Old 02-02-2020, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
Sorry, to clarify, I didn't mean that I didn't find anything, just that I didn't find anything that seemed to answer my question.

If I turn on HGiG, and a game doesn't support it or isn't sending the metadata, do (we know if) my custom tone curves set in auto-cal get ignored?
Ah right, I see.

As far as I understand it, HGiG mode on the TV will always do a hard clip. Regardless of everything else. But few people who own meters and 2019 LG models have stepped up to do actual real tests (hint, hint!). Try it. Take HDR10 greyscale readings with different settings for the Dynamic Tone-mapping menu on the TV, and post the pictures from Calman here. In months and months of discussing this, you would still be the first to actually do so

The whole point of HGiG is that the game knows far better how to tone-map at the source, than any curve that could possibly be performed in the TV after the event. The way to give the game engine the biggest possible "tone-mapping canvas", if you will, is for the TV to do zero tonemapping and only hard-clip. This gives the game the most possibilities.
For TVs without a HGiG tone-mapping mode, the HGiG Db will still help the game do the best it can. Even better results possible if the user sets up the exact values for their TV in the console's centralised HGiG setup area.

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post #1179 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrtickleuk View Post
Ah right, I see.

As far as I understand it, HGiG mode on the TV will always do a hard clip. Regardless of everything else. But few people who own meters and 2019 LG models have stepped up to do actual real tests (hint, hint!). Try it. Take HDR10 greyscale readings with different settings for the Dynamic Tone-mapping menu on the TV, and post the pictures from Calman here. In months and months of discussing this, you would still be the first to actually do so

The whole point of HGiG is that the game knows far better how to tone-map at the source, than any curve that could possibly be performed in the TV after the event. The way to give the game engine the biggest possible "tone-mapping canvas", if you will, is for the TV to do zero tonemapping and only hard-clip. This gives the game the most possibilities.
For TVs without a HGiG tone-mapping mode, the HGiG Db will still help the game do the best it can. Even better results possible if the user sets up the exact values for their TV in the console's centralised HGiG setup area.
Yeah, that's what I had gathered from my research, that no one had tested it yet. Figured I'd ask in case I missed it.

If I manage to test or verify I'll be sure to share my findings. I only have Calman Home so I'm not sure how easy/possible it will be to do any tone mapping verification. I know I can output certain white levels and get a reading but I'm not sure about forcing luminance levels. But I guess if it changes luminance at peak white with HGiG on vs off- it's definitely doing something all the time.

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post #1180 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 07:03 AM
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I attempted my first calibration today using Tyler's latest youtube tutorial. I have the latest Calman Home for LG software, and a Xrite i1Display Meter. I could never get the gray scale step to complete. I tried about 20 times, and each time the process would run from 1 minute to 3 minutes and then I would get an error saying that I needed to remove the diffuser. I had already done that yet I got this error on every attempt, just not at the same point in the process. Any ideas?
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post #1181 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jednc1 View Post
I attempted my first calibration today using Tyler's latest youtube tutorial. I have the latest Calman Home for LG software, and a Xrite i1Display Meter. I could never get the gray scale step to complete. I tried about 20 times, and each time the process would run from 1 minute to 3 minutes and then I would get an error saying that I needed to remove the diffuser. I had already done that yet I got this error on every attempt, just not at the same point in the process. Any ideas?
There may be a problem with your meter but I would turn on logging in CM. It's in the upper left pull down menu in CM. Check all the logging boxes then do another run and send the log file to CM support. They will then be able to tell you what's going on.

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post #1182 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 08:25 AM
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Thanks, I was hoping not the meter since I just bought it. I did turn on logging (mostly for me to look at). I'm going to try again tonight and if I see the same issue I'll upload the log file to CM support.
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Maybe I missed it if you said this already but what mode did you set the i1d3 to? If you're not using the replaced edr for OLED then you should be using raw xyz. If you picked OLED without replacing the edr it would be wrong.

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post #1184 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamuriHL View Post
Maybe I missed it if you said this already but what mode did you set the i1d3 to? If you're not using the replaced edr for OLED then you should be using raw xyz. If you picked OLED without replacing the edr it would be wrong.

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You can download an EDR for that meter and install it in CM. You will have to look through this thread and the LG calibration threads to find out how to do this. For testing you can use raw xyz mode for the i1D3.

Also I was thinking, I believe, i'm not 100% sure, the meter's hardware detects when the diffuser is engaged so you might what to try moving the diffuser up and down a couple of times to see if that solves the problem since the meter is new.

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Hi, I have european LG C9 and after calibration the whitepoint settings are greyed out, but not the color management, if I take a look to CMS all values are setting in zero althought I did a Lighting LUT calibration, Is this correct or I am doing something wrong?
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post #1186 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OledBoy View Post
Hi, I have european LG C9 and after calibration the whitepoint settings are greyed out, but not the color management, if I take a look to CMS all values are setting in zero althought I did a Lighting LUT calibration, Is this correct or I am doing something wrong?
That's correct. Autocal doesn't touch the CMS controls- instead, it creates and uploads a 3D LUT to the display.
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post #1187 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OledBoy View Post
Hi, I have european LG C9 and after calibration the whitepoint settings are greyed out, but not the color management, if I take a look to CMS all values are setting in zero althought I did a Lighting LUT calibration, Is this correct or I am doing something wrong?
It's correct. Colour Gamut, Gamma and White Balance should be greyed out and locked, CMS stays unlocked. CMS values remain all at zeros as no adjustments were made there, all colour management adjustments are contained within the generated LUT and stored in a LUT slot for the associated picture mode.
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post #1188 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 02:16 PM
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EDIT: see my post HERE - it appears the FSI_XM55U_23Jan19 EDR is the correct on for WRGB OLEDS.


@Anger.miki

What version of the EDR profile for the i1D3 meter do you recommend? There seem to be several different ones here and multiple people have asked.

Is it the version:
FSI_XM55U_23Jan19 --> posted earlier
OR: OLEDFamily_20Jul12 --> posted here earlier
OR: OLEDFamily_28Aug18.edr --> which just came in my current download of lightspace free.

I calibrated my 77C9 using raw xyz on my i1D3 and it seems to look pretty decent (I do notice a green push in SDR) but I'd like to compare to a different EDR profile - I just don't want to go through all the steps on a different EDR version than what you've had good success with.

Thanks.

Same goes to any of you who have had good results replacing the EDR for the i1D3 please share which version you've used.
Thanks.

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Anybody knows about if there is any support plan from Spectracal for x rite i1 plus in a short?, and have We got news about EDR file for LG WOLED from X-Rite for Calman Home for LG?
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post #1190 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 02:53 PM
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Anybody knows about if there is any support plan from Spectracal for x rite i1 plus in a short?, and have We got news about EDR file for LG WOLED from X-Rite for Calman Home for LG?
You're best off asking Portrait Displays directly about support for the i1Display Pro Plus. As of the last release, it still wasn't officially supported, but users have claimed it works and appears as the OEM version in CalMAN, which makes sense as it is essentially the exact same meter in a retail box.

X-Rite do not provide a WRGB OLED EDR, and because of this, you will not find one in CalMAN for use with the i1 Display Pro. They do provide them for their own branded (C6) version of the meter.

There is a WRGB OLED EDR available that was created by X-Rite for FSI & Light Illusion for use in LightSpace. It works in CalMAN, but you will have to acquire it yourself and manually add it to the correct installation folder. Just read through the thread for details on how to do this. It has been talked about many times recently and shouldn't be difficult to find.
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post #1191 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamuriHL View Post
Maybe I missed it if you said this already but what mode did you set the i1d3 to? If you're not using the replaced edr for OLED then you should be using raw xyz. If you picked OLED without replacing the edr it would be wrong.

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I am using xyz. Tonight I uninstalled the i1d3 software from my laptop, now I as soon as Calman completes the initials values part I get an ERROR 300. TV software is up to date and the Calman Home for LG is the current version. I'm going to email error log to CM support and hope they can help.

Correction: when it finishes the "Setting up Grayscale autocal" I get the error.

Last edited by jednc1; 02-03-2020 at 04:45 PM.
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post #1192 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jednc1 View Post
I am using xyz. Tonight I uninstalled the i1d3 software from my laptop, now I as soon as Calman completes the initials values part I get an ERROR 300. TV software is up to date and the Calman Home for LG is the current version. I'm going to email error log to CM support and hope they can help.

Correction: when it finishes the "Setting up Grayscale autocal" I get the error.
Yea I would definitely open a support issue and send them the files they need to help diagnose the issue. Something is definitely not right there. I never installed any of the i1d3 software that came with it. I simply plugged it in and let Windows 10 find the device and install the driver. After that I used it directly in Calman Home for LG. So yea something doesn't seem right there.

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post #1193 of 1904 Old 02-03-2020, 10:03 PM
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I tried to autocal hdr game preset with no success. Calman shows error 300 and stops. The preset loses the picture completely and the only way to recover back the image is doing a full factory reset. This is on a c8 tv. Hdr cinema preset has no such problem. I contacted portrait displays support, waiting for a reply.

@WiFi-Spy any ideas?

Edit: After some troubleshooting, installed R2 version and problem has resolved. Must be a bug with (R3) the latest version.

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post #1194 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 03:15 AM
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i1D3 WRGB OLED EDR

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
@Anger.miki

What version of the EDR profile for the i1D3 meter do you recommend? There seem to be several different ones here and multiple people have asked.

Is it the version:
FSI_XM55U_23Jan19 --> posted earlier
OR: OLEDFamily_20Jul12 --> posted here earlier
OR: OLEDFamily_28Aug18.edr --> which just came in my current download of lightspace free.

....

So after more digging I found a post that answers my question elsewhere. And this is important, because it would suggest 2 of the 3 linked EDRs for the i1D3 I found on this forum are incorrect and are for Sony RGB OLEDs not consumer WOLEDs.

According to this post by @ConnecTEDDD Post here
Quote:
The FSI_XM55U_23Jan19.edr is for LG OLEDs 2018 panel based models, since FSI use the same glass as C8. The spectral data used for this EDR has been generated from the FSI XM55U display (~15K$ post production monitor).
Hopefully this helps others looking because this correct information was not easy to locate through all the other conversations. Not sure how much affect it has that this EDR was specifically created with a monitor that uses glass from 2018 panels vs 2019, but nonetheless it appears to be the closest EDR available.

"Correct" i1D3 EDR file (zipped and) attached directly from the most recent install of Lightspace
Attached Files
File Type: zip FSI_XM55U_23Jan19.zip (47.6 KB, 49 views)

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Last edited by Tomcup; 02-04-2020 at 03:20 AM.
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post #1195 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
So after more digging I found a post that answers my question elsewhere. And this is important, because it would suggest 2 of the 3 linked EDRs for the i1D3 I found on this forum are incorrect and are for Sony RGB OLEDs not consumer WOLEDs.
To be honest, not too much digging would have been required for that information. The WRGB OLED EDR from LightSpace has been discussed extensively over the past several months, not just here in the CalMAN Home thread, but in the nearly all of the LG OLED calibration threads, and some of the LG OLED Owners threads too.

It is a long known fact that any OLED EDR's provided by X-Rite in the official SDK are for RGB OLED panels, and not for consumer WOLED's.

I think the confusion comes when new users still don't realise this and use the included OLED EDR, and then others chime in with incomplete or inaccurate information. That confusion was amplified when it was said that because it isn't an official X-Rite EDR included in the official SDK, it shouldn't be trusted. Which is, of course, far from the truth.

Portrait/CalMAN could (if they chose to) include their own WRGB OLED EDR, but doing so would negate pretty much any need of their own custom C6 meters, so in some respects it is totally understandable why they don't. Whether you agree with it or not is totally a matter of your own opinion, but in my own opinion it is obviously a business decision and should be respected as such.

The 2018 & 2019 panels do differ very slightly (different size sub pixels), so there is a chance that spectral response also differs slightly. But if it does, it will likely be marginal, and as the FSI/Light Illusion EDR is the only one available that was created by X-Rite for WOLED panels that is available to all i1d3 probes (using data from FSI/Light Illusion), it is the best anyone is going to currently get outside of using a spectro to profile their probe.

Again, the information is out there and has been for quite some time, it's just a shame that users now have to sift through so many inaccurate, misinformed or incomplete posts to find it.
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Last edited by liberator72; 02-04-2020 at 04:18 AM.
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post #1196 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 04:35 AM
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The (sad) truth is that it all depends on your i1D3. Not all i1D3 have good RGB CIE filters, some are really impossible to profile with a WOLED panel. How do you know if yours is one of them? You need a spectro to profile against and see what happens. Some are easy and fast to profile, some makes you fight to get red luminance within the NIST tolerance and some other has red and green hugely out of tolerance.
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post #1197 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anger.miki View Post
The (sad) truth is that it all depends on your i1D3. Not all i1D3 have good RGB CIE filters, some are really impossible to profile with a WOLED panel. How do you know if yours is one of them? You need a spectro to profile against and see what happens. Some are easy and fast to profile, some makes you fight to get red luminance within the NIST tolerance and some other has red and green hugely out of tolerance.
Miki, I know you have done a lot of testing with the i1D3 so what's your guess on why there is such variability across meters? I would think that X-Rite does QC.
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post #1198 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
To be honest, not too much digging would have been required for that information.

....

Again, the information is out there and has been for quite some time, it's just a shame that users now have to sift through so many inaccurate, misinformed or incomplete posts to find it.
Right lol, it "would have been" easy if I kept up reading every OLED forum since I walked away back in the fall. On top of what you said, there's just way too many split up forums to follow at this point. I had asked about using 3rd party EDRs back in the calibration forum in May (here) and other than being told there was a WOLED profile for the i1D3 in lightspace, I did not know which one was correct.

I was ultimately trying to make a post with easily identifiable search terms that can help clarify the issue for future users versus announcing some great revelation.

It's obvious that the OLED profiles in Calman are incorrect for the i1D3 (it's right in the guide) but it was not largely discussed and tested until later in the year that the "recommended" i1D3 WRBG OLED EDR profile from Lightspace is titled "FSI_XM55U_23Jan19" and is indeed for a WOLED panel. That is very hard to find in a search if you don't know the correct file name. Searching for it otherwise will lead to posts with the filename changed so it looks like the RGB OLED EDR or are the wrong files completely.

I personally was away from the forums for quite a few months (I had been quite active for the months around the C9 release) and only just got around to calibrating my panel after having my set since June because I'm on my 3rd panel due to dead pixels and poor black uniformity (jailbars and vignetting). I didn't want to cal a panel I figured I'd get replaced.
3rd panel is much more uniform and I think I can live with it, but it still has more vertical bands and vignetting than I'd like for the price.

My calibration came out pretty good I think, and I didn't have issues by following the guide. I was actually very impressed at how smooth it was.
I'm also glad there's some customizability for grayscale measurement increments. But, even though I'm pretty pleased, I can't help but wonder and want to compare raw with a different EDR.
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post #1199 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liberator72 View Post
To be honest, not too much digging would have been required for that information.
It took me about two hours. Although there has been much recent discussion about using this EDR, I had considerable difficulty finding reference to the specific name of the EDR file. Searching OLED WRGB EDR produced way too many results to review. I then tried searching for each of the individual file names, but unfortunately the search function separates everything divided by an underline or a period as a separate search term, so again too many results to review. I then had success by removing the ".edr" and "FSI" from the search terms. I finally found a post from about a year ago that specified the file name, and fortunately some help regarding how to access the hidden folder that it needed to be placed in.
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post #1200 of 1904 Old 02-04-2020, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
It took me about two hours.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d...l#post59029004
That took 30 seconds

When I bought CalMAN Home software I quickly readed this thread so got view what is discussed.
If I would do it now, I would get more mixed feelings about software, buy or not, but this story is discussed also...

Last edited by Make73; 02-04-2020 at 08:29 PM.
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