Originally Posted by AdamAttewell
I would agree, but what if I were to tell you that using these settings the image "appears" brighter than the Bright Cinema calibration I did with the screen offset/multiplier active?
I’m not surprised at all. If you look at my signature, there are links to “bright curves” for low nits JVC projectors (50-60 nits peak). All you need to do is to keep diffuse white (and below) at a high level, the trade-off being (relatively) diminished highlights. ST2390 even compensates the low end to enhance shadow details.
Here’s are some comparison shots between 75 nits peak and 120 nits peak, taken with the same camera exposure. You can see how close the overall images can get:
This mode also uses the colour filter hence the dramatic drop in nits but at least I get the benefit of the expanded colour gamut.
Most owners would rather have 130 nits for HDR, without the filter. It’s up to each individual. Note that the low luminance curve can lose colour saturation for bright scenes, in spite of the colour filter.
Assuming the curve in your post 102 is Hypervision with 60 nits peak, it gives you only 22 nits at 50%, comparable to a multiplier or 4~5.
Also using the Dynamic Range Adjustment slider on the Panasonic UB820 allows me to increase the overall image brightness without crushing blacks or blowing out whites if use sparingly.
If I only get 60 nits I would use the UB820 in the SDR2020 mode; i.e., let the UB820 handle all the HDR tone mapping. In the HDR mode the UB820 has absolutely no knowledge of your projector’s tone mapping, and can’t perform proper