Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc - Discussion - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tex_Thai View Post
Well, guys and girls,
I found this disc on the Amazon and put it in my shopping cart, but have not pulled the trigger for it yet.
BECAUSE,
reading this thread is like trying to read GREEK to me!!!!!!
Yes, I hate to admit that. I bought a lovely LG OLED 65 C8 with Pioneer LX500 player and have tried my best to get the settings right, from all the online info I can find. And I am just getting more and more confused. Bewildered.
OK, I will admit that I have a quite decent picture now, especially when I play a 4K blu ray, more so when it is native 4K and more so when it is Dolby Vision.
Amazing looking really. But I don't have confidence that I have things really set right, dialed in correctly.
Please don't tell me to find a professional calibrator, I live in the far North of Thailand and that is NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!!!!!
So a disc with simple instructions, starting at the beginning, NOOB proof, step by step what to do to get my new set really set up properly, that would be worth way over the asking price here.
Problem is, from the sound of things, this is not what is being offered, and not sure people who speak the lingo I am trying my best to read here, can even comprehend where someone like me is even coming from.
KISS, PLEASE give some instructions and KEEP IT SIMPLE. This is not rocket science.
Thanks, and God Bless,
Wayne
No disc will give you instructions specifically for YOUR TV. They all have to be pretty general in scope to reach the largest audience. But there are some available for SDR that can give you a background. Older discs include Ovation Software's AVIA, Sound and Vision's Home Theater Tune Up, Disney's WoW (World of Wonder), and Digital Video Essentials' HD Basics. They aren't for HD, but are just the thing for non-HDR 4K. There's also Ted's Calibration Disk, but it is more along the lines of the S&M discs, being technically oriented (meant more for use with calibration-specific test equipment and software).
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post #62 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Tex_Thai View Post
Well, guys and girls,
I found this disc on the Amazon and put it in my shopping cart, but have not pulled the trigger for it yet.
BECAUSE,
reading this thread is like trying to read GREEK to me!!!!!!
Yes, I hate to admit that. I bought a lovely LG OLED 65 C8 with Pioneer LX500 player and have tried my best to get the settings right, from all the online info I can find. And I am just getting more and more confused. Bewildered.
OK, I will admit that I have a quite decent picture now, especially when I play a 4K blu ray, more so when it is native 4K and more so when it is Dolby Vision.
Amazing looking really. But I don't have confidence that I have things really set right, dialed in correctly.
Please don't tell me to find a professional calibrator, I live in the far North of Thailand and that is NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!!!!!
So a disc with simple instructions, starting at the beginning, NOOB proof, step by step what to do to get my new set really set up properly, that would be worth way over the asking price here.
Problem is, from the sound of things, this is not what is being offered, and not sure people who speak the lingo I am trying my best to read here, can even comprehend where someone like me is even coming from.
KISS, PLEASE give some instructions and KEEP IT SIMPLE. This is not rocket science.
Thanks, and God Bless,
Wayne
Hi Wayne,

I completely understand where your coming from! Since I have a purchase history with Spears and Munsil's previous 2 calibration disc releases, I bought this UHD HDR release unquestioned. Only to find it lacking basic instructions that accompanied the previous releases. So for the time being, and until they release these instructive documents, the Disk's content is basically unusable to me. Yes the Demo stuff is Amazing, but not why I bought the product. I don't mean this to sound harsh or derogatory towards S&M's product. Its the simple truth. Cart in front of horse in this particular case.

Knowing the above and that I bought it on Amazon and could return if I wanted. I have trust in S&M. They do make an extraordinary calibration tool and this Edition is loaded with tools to help anyone dial in their Displays. So I will sit and wait until the documentation arrives. I believe in the end it will pay off.

It is Science that is difficult for the average user to come to terms with. IMHO that is the targeted audience for this product. To help the consumer figure this stuff out, at the Basic or limited Advance level, with helpful tools and instructions on how to interpret the results. With suggestions on adjustments to make to improve the results. Or at least that is my take.
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post #63 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex_Thai View Post
Well, guys and girls,
I found this disc on the Amazon and put it in my shopping cart, but have not pulled the trigger for it yet.
BECAUSE,
reading this thread is like trying to read GREEK to me!!!!!!
Yes, I hate to admit that. I bought a lovely LG OLED 65 C8 with Pioneer LX500 player and have tried my best to get the settings right, from all the online info I can find. And I am just getting more and more confused. Bewildered.
OK, I will admit that I have a quite decent picture now, especially when I play a 4K blu ray, more so when it is native 4K and more so when it is Dolby Vision.
Amazing looking really. But I don't have confidence that I have things really set right, dialed in correctly.
Please don't tell me to find a professional calibrator, I live in the far North of Thailand and that is NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!!!!!
So a disc with simple instructions, starting at the beginning, NOOB proof, step by step what to do to get my new set really set up properly, that would be worth way over the asking price here.
Problem is, from the sound of things, this is not what is being offered, and not sure people who speak the lingo I am trying my best to read here, can even comprehend where someone like me is even coming from.
KISS, PLEASE give some instructions and KEEP IT SIMPLE. This is not rocket science.
Thanks, and God Bless,
Wayne
Hi Wayne,

I would read the getting started article on our website and see how you feel after reading it. http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio...n-benchmark-2/ This article covers the basics. Then you can read more indepth articles for brightness, contrast and color tint. That is as simple as it gets.

The general idea is you display a pattern. e.g. Brightness. Then you find the brightness control on your TV and you turn it all the way up and all the way down just to visually see what happens. Then set it to the setting that most closely matches the sample images in the article.

Also, write down your current settings before you start. Or you can always reset back to factory default.

The above will cover SDR. HDR is more complicated and I would at least wait until we publish the 3rd edition articles before making a choice. If it seems like too much, then I would not get it and be happy with what you have.

The two best things you can do with your display is put it in Cinema mode (vs. Cinema Home) and send in 4:4:4 10-bit from your player. If your Blu-ray player is an OPPO, change Dolby Vision from Auto to TV-led.

Stacey Spears
Co-Creator, Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark

Last edited by sspears; 07-09-2019 at 10:33 AM.
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post #64 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 11:14 AM
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Got the disc yesterday and have been playing around with it. New to any kind of calibration and thought this disc could be a good starting point. I am looking forward to the documentation.

Is there a test on the disc I can use to detect Black Crush?
Which display do you have?
LG C8 OLED. Sorry I didn’t mention that before. I’ll take a look using that pattern. Thank you.
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post #65 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 11:47 AM
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LG C8 OLED. Sorry I didn’t mention that before. I’ll take a look using that pattern. Thank you.
As I posted for others, be sure to set your player to 10-bit 4:4:4 if that option exists. Also use Cinema vs. Cinema Home. And take a look at color space eval and compare both modes by looking at the PQ tracking section. Also turn dynamic tone mapping on and off when you compare. The C8 is not as accurate, by default, as the C9.

The best cal you can actually do is with CalMAN. The C8 and C9 both support 1D and 3D LUT calibration. For DV, its the same on both C8 and C9. For HDR10, C9 can take the panel peak and use it while the C8 is limited to the factory setting. Basically C8 introduced measuring the panel peak for Dolby Vision and added it to HDR10 in the C9.
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post #66 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 12:28 PM
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LG C8 OLED. Sorry I didn’️t mention that before. I’️ll take a look using that pattern. Thank you.
As I posted for others, be sure to set your player to 10-bit 4:4:4 if that option exists. Also use Cinema vs. Cinema Home. And take a look at color space eval and compare both modes by looking at the PQ tracking section. Also turn dynamic tone mapping on and off when you compare. The C8 is not as accurate, by default, as the C9.

The best cal you can actually do is with CalMAN. The C8 and C9 both support 1D and 3D LUT calibration. For DV, its the same on both C8 and C9. For HDR10, C9 can take the panel peak and use it while the C8 is limited to the factory setting. Basically C8 introduced measuring the panel peak for Dolby Vision and added it to HDR10 in the C9.
I’m new to any kind of calibration. Anything I do for now is going to be by eye. I don’t see myself getting calibration equipment anytime soon. Hoping the disc will suffice for even some basic calibrations.
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post #67 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 02:09 PM
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For the top end, tone mapping is done. No one really agrees on what should be done on the bottom end.
I believe BT.2390 recommends tone mapping for the “toe” part in addition to the “knee” part of the PQ curve. HCFR implements both.
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post #68 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 03:02 PM
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I dropped out of law school, but I remember one thing from my semester there.

I had a professor who, talking about the law, said, "a clear picture of a fuzzy thing is a fuzzy picture."

That stuck with me. In fact, it ultimately inspired me to drop out and do something else, but I guess it was worth the price of admission.

It taught me that trying to explain something that hasn't fully taken shape yet (HDR) is a real challenge. Because the answers, like the problems, are still in flux. So it sounds like Greek.

One of the biggest home cinema issues right now is having something somewhere (a device, a setting) in your equipment chain that kicks the image out of 10-bit HDR or is causing the loss of parts of the image in other ways. We saw it happen at CE Week, with some of the biggest experts in home cinema in the room. Once dialed in, each of the displays looked stunning. Each with its own strengths, whether it was better handling of motion, brighter highlights, or more naturalistic colors.

There are patterns on the disc that can't be displayed at their designated brightness levels because the devices don't exist yet.

But it also means that you are sort of buying a beta product with this disc, because it's going to be changing, both in terms of user guide and eventually test materials as well. But, in a lot of ways HDR displays are also beta products. We have the chroma bug, for example. We have unpredictable behaviors and interactions between equipment, we have unique features to each display that alter the image in ways that pull it away from a reference image, and we all still buy them believing that they are worth the asking price.

I think the disc will help someone looking for a basic setup, especially once the user guides are complete, but there will always be tons of patterns that are not intended for consumers without test equipment, and that stuff is always going to look Greek to some.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex_Thai View Post
Well, guys and girls,
I found this disc on the Amazon and put it in my shopping cart, but have not pulled the trigger for it yet.
BECAUSE,
reading this thread is like trying to read GREEK to me!!!!!!
Yes, I hate to admit that. I bought a lovely LG OLED 65 C8 with Pioneer LX500 player and have tried my best to get the settings right, from all the online info I can find. And I am just getting more and more confused. Bewildered.
OK, I will admit that I have a quite decent picture now, especially when I play a 4K blu ray, more so when it is native 4K and more so when it is Dolby Vision.
Amazing looking really. But I don't have confidence that I have things really set right, dialed in correctly.
Please don't tell me to find a professional calibrator, I live in the far North of Thailand and that is NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!!!!!
So a disc with simple instructions, starting at the beginning, NOOB proof, step by step what to do to get my new set really set up properly, that would be worth way over the asking price here.
Problem is, from the sound of things, this is not what is being offered, and not sure people who speak the lingo I am trying my best to read here, can even comprehend where someone like me is even coming from.
KISS, PLEASE give some instructions and KEEP IT SIMPLE. This is not rocket science.
Thanks, and God Bless,
Wayne

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Scenic Labs, LLC
Publisher of Spears & Munsil Benchmark UHD HDR Benchmark.
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post #69 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 03:02 PM
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Don and I are presenting the disc at an upcoming meeting to the display manufactures on 7/17. Then another presentation to the studios a couple of weeks later.
Any chance that video of any of your presentations will be available soon? I've been hoping for a presentation or interview similar to Home Theater Geeks 159 with the latest from you and Don.
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post #70 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 05:44 PM
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Any chance that video of any of your presentations will be available soon? I've been hoping for a presentation or interview similar to Home Theater Geeks 159 with the latest from you and Don.
I don't know if either of those will be recorded. We are planning a podcast with someone in August.
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post #71 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 05:46 PM
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The getting started guide has been published. Currently its not showing up under articles, that will be fixed by tomorrow.

We will try and get more of the articles updated this week.

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Co-Creator, Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark

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post #72 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 06:14 PM
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That is more than the B7 shows with DTM off. With it on, everything returns.

Since you have C9, try this.
1. Go to the color space eval pattern
2. Look at the PQ tracking section.
3. Switch between cinema home and cinema. (w/ and w/o DTM)

What you will see is Cinema mode tracks PQ better than Cinema home. The blinking checkerboards should blend with the gray background. The blinking should be subtle to invisible.

I would use DTM myself.
I ran the test as suggested. The disk (@ 1000 cd/m2) running on my Xbox One X, C9 calibrated by @jrref .
Cinema, DTM on, all boxes blended with very subtle blinking.
Cinema, DTM off, all boxes blended except 500 with noticeable blinking.
The disk set to 4000 cd/m2, generally boxes didn't blend as well, especially at 500.
Cinema Home all boxes blended except 500 with and without DTM.
Not sure what this means but @ 1000 cd/m2 with DTM on, box 500 dramatically darkened.
Thoughts?

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post #73 of 144 Old 07-09-2019, 06:37 PM
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I ran the test as suggested. The disk (@ 1000 cd/m2) running on my Xbox One X, C9 calibrated by @jrref .
Cinema, DTM on, all boxes blended with very subtle blinking.
Cinema, DTM off, all boxes blended except 500 with noticeable blinking.
The disk set to 4000 cd/m2, generally boxes didn't blend as well, especially at 500.
Cinema Home all boxes blended except 500 with and without DTM.
Not sure what this means but @ 1000 cd/m2 with DTM on, box 500 dramatically darkened.
Thoughts?
In order for the 500 box to blend, your display needs to be capable of 1000 nits, which your OLED is not.

The way those work is the number represents the nit vale of the gray box. The checkerboard high value inside the gray box is 2x that. So the 500 box is 1000 nits high and 0 low.
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post #74 of 144 Old 07-10-2019, 06:56 AM
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To add one more point on the tracking boxes. On the 600 nit pattern, the 300 box may or may not blend, it all depends on how soon they start tone mapping. Some try and track PQ as high as possible and tone map at the end, which may end up looking like its clipping. Others start tone mapping much sooner and slowly roll-off.

Which one is right? There is no right since there is no standard. Just different trade-offs.

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Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc - Discussion

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Originally Posted by sspears View Post
To add one more point on the tracking boxes. On the 600 nit pattern, the 300 box may or may not blend, it all depends on how soon they start tone mapping. Some try and track PQ as high as possible and tone map at the end, which may end up looking like its clipping. Others start tone mapping much sooner and slowly roll-off.



Which one is right? There is no right since there is no standard. Just different trade-offs.


Edit: Oops you are talking about a different pattern, NM below!

On my C9 all of the boxes blended nicely and the flashing is subtle except for 500 when DTM is off. DTM appears to darkened the test pattern hence blending at 500. For regular viewing and gaming I keep DTM off. @jrref calibrated my C9 with the new custom tone curves but I’ll give DTM another try. However DTM appears to crush shadow detail?


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post #76 of 144 Old 07-10-2019, 07:27 AM
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The getting started guide has been published. Currently its not showing up under articles, that will be fixed by tomorrow.

We will try and get more of the articles updated this week.
Thank you for getting this posted up so quickly! Appreciate the effort and plan to give this a test drive later this afternoon. One element I noted in my first read through. Is it possible to provide some sort of Primer on how to Set the HDR Nit Level to match up with a specific Display? This might become a point of confusion on how to proceed once SDR settings have been completed. Just a thought.

Thanks again sspears!!

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post #77 of 144 Old 07-10-2019, 08:03 AM
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Thank you for getting this posted up so quickly! Appreciate the effort and plan to give this a test drive later this afternoon. One element I noted in my first read through. Is it possible to provide some sort of Primer on how to Set the HDR Nit Level to match up with a specific Display? This might become a point of confusion on how to proceed once SDR settings have been completed. Just a thought.

Thanks again sspears!!
For calibration, you would ideally need to measure your displays peak with a light meter and select the nit version closest to your displays capability.

For evaluation, you would want to check 1000 and 4000 since those are the most common mastering displays used for content creation today.

If you don't know your displays capability, I would stick with 1000, which is why default to it.

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post #78 of 144 Old 07-10-2019, 02:24 PM
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Hi,

I am wondering if there is a test pattern on this new UHD Benchmark UHD Disc that can confirm if my projector the JVC NX9 is capable of handling YCBCr444 in 10 or 12 bit

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post #79 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 07:53 AM
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Hi,

I am wondering if there is a test pattern on this new UHD Benchmark UHD Disc that can confirm if my projector the JVC NX9 is capable of handling YCBCr444 in 10 or 12 bit
What do you mean by handle? An HDMI receiver will most likely accept both. The test patterns are 10-bit, so 12-bit won't technically improve the quality.

The color space eval and the quantization rotate will help you figure out which input is best. The scaling HD also helped me figure out 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4 and player vs. display side scaling into the LG. But that is a special case where either the display or player has an obvious bug.

Here is the quantization rotate pattern. Keep in mind you are viewing this HDR image on an SDR display. It is also an 8-bit image. I used our dither to make the bottom half look smooth.

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post #80 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 08:13 AM
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Which display do you have?

The brightness pattern has a ramp that goes from +4% down to -4% and the dynamic range low pattern has even more granularity so you can see every code value blinking from 65 up to around 100. On the ramp portion, there is a big square above and below the ramp on both sides. That is where code value 64 is. So you should see the ramp slowly get dark down until it reaches the square. If the ramp is gone sooner, its crushed.

The interesting question is what should the display do with information below its capability. HDR uses an absolute curve where each code value should represent a specific brightness level. For the top end, tone mapping is done. No one really agrees on what should be done on the bottom end.

0.005 black is code value 77. Not many LCDs can go that black, certainly not global dimming. True black is at code value 64.
Hey Stacey. thanks for your help so far. I was able to play around with this last night. From what I can tell, I can see the blinking up to maybe 63 or so, unfortunately. Regarding the large squares on the boarder of the dynamic range low pattern, I saw that some of them say OLED. I assume I use those somehow to find true black correct? On what I thought was true black, where there are no "glowing" areas, I can still see the "OLED box." But one notch lower and it disappears. Which is correct?

On a probably related note, I realized this morning I have not did any SDR calibrations and from what I understand, they could affect my HDR calibrations. Though on my TV, all my settings are clearly different for SDR and HDR. Is HDR derived from SDR on all TVs?

One more thing. On the initial setup screen for this disc, there is P3D65/BT.2020 or just BT.2020. How do I know which one I want?

Thanks.
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post #81 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 08:17 AM
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Hey Stacey. thanks for your help so far. I was able to play around with this last night. From what I can tell, I can see the blinking up to maybe 63 or so, unfortunately. Regarding the large squares on the boarder of the dynamic range low pattern, I saw that some of them say OLED. I assume I use those somehow to find true black correct? On what I thought was true black, where there are no "glowing" areas, I can still see the "OLED box." But one notch lower and it disappears. Which is correct?

On a probably related note, I realized this morning I have not did any SDR calibrations and from what I understand, they could affect my HDR calibrations. Though on my TV, all my settings are clearly different for SDR and HDR. Is HDR derived from SDR on all TVs?

One more thing. On the initial setup screen for this disc, there is P3D65/BT.2020 or just BT.2020. How do I know which one I want?

Thanks.
Sorry for the confusion, I mean the blocks just above and below the ramp in the center of the pattern. The big squares on the top and bottom of the pattern are to show you the difference in black level between the UHDA logo program for LCD and OLED as well as the Pulsar display. If you are viewing on an OLED, you can see what the UHDA said was acceptable black level for an LCD to get the logo. Its also an easy way to measure the black level with a meter.

The SDR impacting HDR is display dependent. (Or rather Brand)

The P3D65 is the default and I would use that since that is what CalMAN and others use. It only impacts the saturation sweeps ramps, saturation sweeps / gamut window patterns.

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post #82 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 08:33 AM
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Sorry for the confusion, I mean the blocks just above and below the ramp in the center of the pattern. The big squares on the top and bottom of the pattern are to show you the difference in black level between the UHDA logo program for LCD and OLED as well as the Pulsar display. If you are viewing on an OLED, you can see what the UHDA said was acceptable black level for an LCD to get the logo. Its also an easy way to measure the black level with a meter.

The SDR impacting HDR is display dependent. (Or rather Brand)

The P3D65 is the default and I would use that since that is what CalMAN and others use. It only impacts the saturation sweeps ramps, saturation sweeps / gamut window patterns.
That is quite alright. I am so new to this. I am just trying to avoid asking stupid questions or just too many questions. I'm still confused about true black level. How can I set that on my OLED with your patterns?

Also, I admit to not knowing what the UHDA logo program is. Using those squares would I want the OLED one to be visible or not visible?
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That is quite alright. I am so new to this. I am just trying to avoid asking stupid questions or just too many questions. I'm still confused about true black level. How can I set that on my OLED with your patterns?

Also, I admit to not knowing what the UHDA logo program is. Using those squares would I want the OLED one to be visible or not visible?
This is not a calibration pattern, it is an evaluation pattern. All three squares will be visible on an OLED.

UHDA is the UltraHD Alliance. They offer a Premium logo program that is supposed to be a sign of quality. The boxes on both the low and high pattern is to show what their standard uses for high and low on LCD and OLED.

Your OLED should have black level set correctly by default in Cinema mode on the LG. I think Cinema Pro on Sony. Have not looked at a Panasonic in a while since they are not easy to see in the US.

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post #84 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 10:40 AM
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This is not a calibration pattern, it is an evaluation pattern. All three squares will be visible on an OLED.
I see. Makes sense now.

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UHDA is the UltraHD Alliance. They offer a Premium logo program that is supposed to be a sign of quality. The boxes on both the low and high pattern is to show what their standard uses for high and low on LCD and OLED.
Good to know, thank you.

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Your OLED should have black level set correctly by default in Cinema mode on the LG. I think Cinema Pro on Sony. Have not looked at a Panasonic in a while since they are not easy to see in the US.
I did not know that about cinema mode. So Cinema mode at default should have my black level set correctly where true back is represented? My brightness on HDR10 is at 50 and I have never changed it.

However, I have a different situation with regard to Dolby Vision content. Not too long ago, I noticed on DV content with black bars, the black bars were not pure black and I could still see a glow. Reducing the brightness to 49 solved the problem. In doing some research, I discovered adjusting down one notch like that isn't unheard of and is normal with regards to panel tolerance. However I do know my model of OLED, the C8 has had some firmware issues and that could also be the cause. I had my brightness at 50 for months before I noticed the glow and I can't definitely say if it was always like that and I didn't notice or if a firmware update actually changed my brightness and caused it to happen.

I use Cinema Home and Cinema for DV content (Most Cinema Home) and both picture modes require the Brightness adjustment to 49 for pure blacks.
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I believe the DV black level issue with letterbox bars was a bug. At least I recall an issue when it launched, but I don't remember the specifics.

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I believe the DV black level issue with letterbox bars was a bug. At least I recall an issue when it launched, but I don't remember the specifics.
I think you are right but I also thought it was a past bug. But something is affecting the black levels on my DV bars currently. All my equipment is updated and on current firmwares.
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I think you are right but I also thought it was a past bug. But something is affecting the black levels on my DV bars currently. All my equipment is updated and on current firmwares.
One of the metadata items for DV is the letterbox region. If they don't set that, it might impact tone mapping. What is really cool, is you can change this per shot for a mixed aspect ratio movie. Again, you have to set it.

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One of the metadata items for DV is the letterbox region. If they don't set that, it might impact tone mapping. What is really cool, is you can change this per shot for a mixed aspect ratio movie. Again, you have to set it.
Sounds cool. When you say it can be changed per shot you're talking about those making the movie/disc? Is this a DV only thing?
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post #89 of 144 Old 07-11-2019, 11:28 AM
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Sounds cool. When you say it can be changed per shot you're talking about those making the movie/disc? Is this a DV only thing?
Lets take The Dark Knight were some shots were shot on IMAX and are 4x3 on the disc vs. other parts of the movie that is 2.39:1. While creating the Dolby Vision master, you can mark the shots that are 2.39.1 so tone mapping will know not to modify the region of the image where the letterbox bars are.

For HD DVD, we would crop off the bars and re-add them by aligning the top with a macroblock boundary to remove noise in the bar region. I am sure some are doing this for BD and UHD BD as well.

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Brainstorm is another black bar odd one ...

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