Official OPPO UDP-205 UHD Blu-ray Player Owner's Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #271 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by zoe-19 View Post
Wow, add another one to the list. I was thrilled that all multi-channel and dedicated stereo setup went so well, then I do something so careless as to put the wrong disc in.
Lesson learned. Thanks for the help,
Karl


I usually check the disc before I put it in and also make sure I get the HDR pop up on the TV. The one time I didn't I watched John Wick all the way through, even thought it looked pretty good only to realize when I ejected the disc that I watched the Bluray so naturally I had to then watch the entire movie again the next night with the 4k disc.

I now don't even chance it and check to make sure where the 4k disc is when I take the plastic off the case.


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post #272 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
First off, the question I answered was with respect to playing stereo content into the XLR pair of the Dedicated Stereo Analog outputs.



For YOUR question, if you want to apply speaker distance adjustments or the other stuff available in the multi-channel Analog Speaker Configuration settings then you should, of course, wire the muliti-channel outputs.



If you play stereo content into that multi-channel wiring, it will be handled according to the settings that you made for the multi-channel outputs. For example if you specified the LF and RF speakers were at different distances then the distance adjustment would be made. Or if you specified that LF/RF were SMALL then Crossover processing would steer bass to the Subwoofer output.



NOW, with those settings for multi-channel, what happens on the Dedicated Stereo Analog outs depends on your Stereo Signal setting.



If you have that set to FRONT LEFT/RIGHT, then the Dedicate L/R pair -- either the RCA or XLR pair -- will act just like the LF/RF pair of the multi-channel set -- applying all the settings you made in Speaker Configuration that apply to the LF/RF multi-channel pair.



But if you have set Stereo Signal to DOWN-MIXED STEREO, the Dediceated L/R pair will *IGNORE* the settings you made in the multi-channel Speaker Configuration. The Dedicated L/R pair will be treated as LARGE, equidistant, and with 0dB volume trim.



----------------------------



If you play multi-channel content into the multi-channel outputs, what happens on LF/RF there depends on which Down-Mix setting you have selected in Speaker Configuration and also on which speakers of the select Down-Mix have been left enabled -- i.e., with LARGE or SMALL. Speakers set to OFF in your selected Down-Mix will have their content sent to the remaining speakers.



Meanwhile the Dedicated Stereo Analog L/R pairs will still function according to your setting for Stereo Signal. If that's sent to FRONT LEFT/RIGHT, the Dedicated L/R pair will get the same signal as goes to LF/RF of the multi-channel set -- according to the Speaker Configuration settings you have in effect.



But if Stereo Signal is set to DOWN-MIXED STEREO, the Dedicated L/R pair will get a "Stereo" down-mix of the multi-channel content without regard to your multi-channel Speaker Configuration settings.

--Bob


Thank you! That's exactly what I thought and how I'm going to set up. I did set fronts to Large and at 0.00 for all speakers, because my AVR already takes care of that when necessary.

I need to be able to play 5.1 content without switching any options on Oppo, so it just works perfect for both great Stereo and 5.1 when the signal is there.


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post #273 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by michaellsv View Post
Thank you! That's exactly what I thought and how I'm going to set up. I did set fronts to Large and at 0.00 for all speakers, because my AVR already takes care of that when necessary.

I need to be able to play 5.1 content without switching any options on Oppo, so it just works perfect for both great Stereo and 5.1 when the signal is there.


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There you go. The whole point of the Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT setting is that it lets your wire a Dedicated Stereo L/R pair *INSTEAD OF* the normal RCA jacks for LF/RF in the multi-channel set. To do that, the Dedicated L/R pair has to get exactly the same signal as would go to the multi-channel LF/RF. And that's just what Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT does for you.

Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO, on the other hand, configures the Dedicated Stereo RCA and XLR L/R pairs to operate INDEPENDENTLY from the settings you have made in Speaker Configuration for the multi-channel set.

------------------------------

The design of the Speaker Configuration settings for the multi-channel set is intended so you can make a single set of settings applicable to your actual speakers and then play any content into it without having to change those settings.

So for example, if the content you are playing has fewer channels than specified in your Speaker Configuration > Down Mix setting, that Down Mix setting doesn't DO anything. That means you can play Stereo content with a Down Mix of 5.1 or 7.1 and the Down Mix won't touch that stereo content. Meanwhile, if you have LF/RF set to SMALL, Crossover will still apply, and so you will get bass steered to the Subwoofer output. So you will have audio on 2.1 cables even though you have 5.1 or 7.1 cables wired.
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post #274 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
There you go. The whole point of the Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT setting is that it lets your wire a Dedicated Stereo L/R pair *INSTEAD OF* the normal RCA jacks for LF/RF in the multi-channel set. To do that, the Dedicated L/R pair has to get exactly the same signal as would go to the multi-channel LF/RF. And that's just what Stereo Signal FRONT LEFT/RIGHT does for you.



Stereo Signal DOWN-MIXED STEREO, on the other hand, configures the Dedicated Stereo RCA and XLR L/R pairs to operate INDEPENDENTLY from the settings you have made in Speaker Configuration for the multi-channel set.



------------------------------



The design of the Speaker Configuration settings for the multi-channel set is intended so you can make a single set of settings applicable to your actual speakers and then play any content into it without having to change those settings.



So for example, if the content you are playing has fewer channels than specified in your Speaker Configuration > Down Mix setting, that Down Mix setting doesn't DO anything. That means you can play Stereo content with a Down Mix of 5.1 or 7.1 and the Down Mix won't touch that stereo content. Meanwhile, if you have LF/RF set to SMALL, Crossover will still apply, and so you will get bass steered to the Subwoofer output. So you will have audio on 2.1 cables even though you have 5.1 or 7.1 cables wired.

--Bob


Yup, the options on OPPO are on point. Makes pairing with a pre/pro or AVR easy with lots of choices for hook up.

The whole set up was relatively painless. I made 3 separate settings on my AVR, 1 for 5.1 content, 2nd for 2.0, and 3rd for 2.0 with TV HDMI switch so the TV (sports or what not) can play in back ground while I listen to the music.

Can't wait to watch some movies with family this weekend. Redbox has lots of new blu rays for me to catch up on ))


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post #275 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 09:29 PM
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[QUOTE=Bob Pariseau;52581969]Well let's start with the simple stuff. Have you told your 205 you want it to play content coming in on the USB DAC Input?

Hi Bob,

Thank you for running to the rescue! :-) I wish it was that simple. Setting and rebooting both to the USB in on Oppo from the Laptop does not work. I have uninstalled and reinstalled the driver. Originally I installed it from the Sonica DAC link and then the second time from the 205 support page. Both drivers seem to be the same version.

Cheers,

Jared
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post #276 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 10:06 PM
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^ OK, next step would be to try a replacement USB cable. On the OPPO end, this plugs into the square shaped USB DAC Input socket on the back panel, not one of the thin rectangular sockets you use for attaching a USB hard drive.

If that doesn't do it, get in touch with OPPO Tech Support in the morning and let them diagnose this with you.
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post #277 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 10:06 PM
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[quote=jaredmmyers;52584009]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
Well let's start with the simple stuff. Have you told your 205 you want it to play content coming in on the USB DAC Input?

Hi Bob,

Thank you for running to the rescue! :-) I wish it was that simple. Setting and rebooting both to the USB in on Oppo from the Laptop does not work. I have uninstalled and reinstalled the driver. Originally I installed it from the Sonica DAC link and then the second time from the 205 support page. Both drivers seem to be the same version.

Cheers,

Jared


I'm hooking up USB tomorrow, should be painless as well, I'm using a MacBook, so no drivers required...plug and play!


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post #278 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 10:09 PM
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Bob everything was easy to figure out so far, but I was planning on using a trigger from my AVR to turn on my Oddo when I press the preset for oppo operation.

I never used triggers before...is it strait forward to connect and figure out as the rest of the stuff was?


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post #279 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 10:33 PM
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I don't know if the headphone amp works magic on big "Cans" headphones, but on my Ultimate Ears TripleFi 10 the sound volume is endless yes, but the output seems regular/normal/unchanged so to speak. Flat/Monitor type of sound I guess. With no setting to adjust Bass/Treble :/ I wonder if hooking up headphones through the Amp will be a warmer sound... I'm not too big on listening through headphones, and it's getting too late for today...will experiment over the weekend. GN!


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post #280 of 7324 Old 04-27-2017, 10:37 PM
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I notice one of the aussie dealers posting they have theirs so they must be in the country


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post #281 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
MOST people should not be using LT/RT.



If you want to set up 3.0 or 3.1 speakers via Analog -- L/C/R and possibly Sub -- then use the multi-channel outs, select the 5.1 down mix, and then also set the Left Surround and Right Surround speakers to OFF. When you play multi-channel tracks the surround channels will go into the LF/RF speakers (like a "stereo" down mix). Center channel content will go to the Center speaker. When you play stereo content, the Center speaker will be silent.



------------------------------



Doing digital to analog conversion inherently involves filtering. The DACs in the 205 give a choice of that, and the 205 makes that choice available for user selection. I would not expect you to hear big differences. I'm looking to see if I can get some documentation on these that might be helpful, but nothing so far. So we need some golden ears folks to report. If you don't hear a reason to make a change, stick with the default setting.

--Bob






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post #282 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 12:59 AM
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^ That screen shot was from this:
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/DACE...20Controle.pdf
I don't know if the filters work the same way in the 205 or not. I don't understand the point, as the differences are all past the limit of most humans hearing anyway. Anyone able to explain?


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post #283 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 04:18 AM
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When I hit eject on the 205 remote it opens the disc trey as it should, but it also turns my 103D on and opens the disc trey on it as well! It is really strange as turning the 205 on with the remote doesn't turn on the 103D.

Before I contact Oppo I wanted to know if anyone else is having issues with the remote for the 205 triggering other Oppo devices?
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post #284 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 04:30 AM
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Official OPPO UDP-205 UHD Blu-ray Player Owner's Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by egrady View Post
When I hit eject on the 205 remote it opens the disc trey as it should, but it also turns my 103D on and opens the disc trey on it as well! It is really strange as turning the 205 on with the remote doesn't turn on the 103D.

Before I contact Oppo I wanted to know if anyone else is having issues with the remote for the 205 triggering other Oppo devices?


It seems like the eject command is the same for both and when your 103D is receiving the tray open command it first has to power up before ejecting the tray. Check to see if there is an option in either unit for what remote codes to use. Something like remote codes 1, remote codes 2, etc.

Update: Check page 10 of the manual - Changing the Remote Code


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post #285 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egrady View Post
When I hit eject on the 205 remote it opens the disc trey as it should, but it also turns my 103D on and opens the disc trey on it as well! It is really strange as turning the 205 on with the remote doesn't turn on the 103D.

Before I contact Oppo I wanted to know if anyone else is having issues with the remote for the 205 triggering other Oppo devices?


Changing the Remote Code
The remote control contains three OPPO remote codes. The default is Code 1. If you have other OPPO products placed close to the UDP-205, they may inadvertently respond to the UDP-205 remote control. To prevent this, you can select a different remote code.
To select a new remote code, open the battery compartment cover of the remote control, and then use a ball point pen to flip the switch to one of the positions marked as 1, 2, or 3. Close the battery compartment cover. Make sure that the UDP-205 player is turned on and that the disc tray is ejected. Aim the remote control at the player. Press and hold the ENTER button for 5 seconds. The player will start using the new remote code.
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post #286 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by michaellsv View Post
Bob everything was easy to figure out so far, but I was planning on using a trigger from my AVR to turn on my Oddo when I press the preset for oppo operation.

I never used triggers before...is it strait forward to connect and figure out as the rest of the stuff was?


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Yes, Trigger wire connections are quite simple. Just read the instructions.
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post #287 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tngiloy View Post
Changing the Remote Code
The remote control contains three OPPO remote codes. The default is Code 1. If you have other OPPO products placed close to the UDP-205, they may inadvertently respond to the UDP-205 remote control. To prevent this, you can select a different remote code.
To select a new remote code, open the battery compartment cover of the remote control, and then use a ball point pen to flip the switch to one of the positions marked as 1, 2, or 3. Close the battery compartment cover. Make sure that the UDP-205 player is turned on and that the disc tray is ejected. Aim the remote control at the player. Press and hold the ENTER button for 5 seconds. The player will start using the new remote code.

Excellent, worked like a charm. Thank you.
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post #288 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by egrady View Post
When I hit eject on the 205 remote it opens the disc trey as it should, but it also turns my 103D on and opens the disc trey on it as well! It is really strange as turning the 205 on with the remote doesn't turn on the 103D.

Before I contact Oppo I wanted to know if anyone else is having issues with the remote for the 205 triggering other Oppo devices?
If you have a power failure or disconnect wall power from an OPPO player, it will respond to power up commands in any of the three remote codes the first time you next power it up. Both Power button and Tray Open button act as power up commands.

For the 2nd and later power ups (after each loss of power) it will only respond to commands from the one of the three remote code sets you have selected for the player.

During that first power up (after loss of wall power) the player will switch to using your selected remote code set as part if its boot up sequence.

NOTE: Doing a Reset Factory Defaults in the player does NOT reset your choice of which of the three remote code sets it will use.
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post #289 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 07:47 AM
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Stream Device to use

I am using the 205 as a center for my stereo source and take advantage of the DAC. Will connect this to my music hardrive thru home network. However, have question on music streaming. I have been using the Denon HEOS Link (Series 1 with 96khz max out) as a Music Streamer for about 3 years now. I use Spotify mostly. Should I upgrade my streamer? I want to know what kind of music streaming device you guys use.
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post #290 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 08:01 AM
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I am using the 205 as a center for my stereo source and take advantage of the DAC. Will connect this to my music hardrive thru home network. However, have question on music streaming. I have been using the Denon HEOS Link (Series 1 with 96khz max out) as a Music Streamer for about 3 years now. I use Spotify mostly. Should I upgrade my streamer? I want to know what kind of music streaming device you guys use.

This is not the correct area for choosing a streaming device. Please use this forum area for recommendations.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-net...ent-streaming/
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post #291 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 08:42 AM
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Notes on Setting Up for Analog Output

For folks new to the OPPO players, these notes may help save you some head scratching.

As mentioned in my post above regarding direct connection to a Power Amplifier, the "normal" way to wire Analog out of the OPPO is to connect to the inputs of a pre-amp -- which also includes the Analog inputs of an AVR since they always have a pre-amp in those.

When doing so, the USUAL Volume setting for the OPPO is the maximum value of 100 -- or setting Output Volume to FIXED, which does the same thing.

However, depending on the headroom designed into the inputs of your pre-amp, a Volume 100 output signal may possibly "clip" the inputs of the pre-amp in the loudest audio passages you play. The symptom would be a sense of "harshness" in the loudest audio passages, which cleans right up if you lower the OPPO's Volume a bit.

If you hear that, what you should do is test a selection of your loudest audio content and lower Volume on the OPPO just enough to insure you don't have clipping. It will usually only take a few steps reduction of Volume: -1dB to -3dB, meaning Volume 99 to 97. If you DON'T hear clipping in your loudest audio passages, that simply means your pre-amp has enough headroom designed in to prevent it, and you can leave Volume in the OPPO at 100.

Once you have found the Volume setting in the OPPO which insures against clipping of your loudest audio passages that is a "set and forget" setting. I.e., use that same Volume for everything you play. (Of course while using the Volume control in your pre-amp to achieve a comfortable listening level.)

NOTE 1: If you hear "harshness" which does *NOT* go away when you lower output Volume in the OPPO just a few steps, then that's some other problem. For example you may be overdriving your speakers or you may even have a damaged speaker.

NOTE 2: As mentioned in my post above, it is also best practice to set your individual speaker Volume Trims in the OPPO so that none of them are in positive dB territory. If after doing a check you discover that one or more speakers needs a +dB trim, simply lower ALL the trims the same amount so that the largest trim is 0dB and all the rest are -dB trims.

----------------------------------------

The Analog Subwoofer output of the OPPO carries both LFE channel content (the .1 of 5.1 or 7.1 tracks) and bass steered from the main speaker channels due to Crossover processing. Bass steering happens for speakers you have set to SMALL in the Analog Speaker Configuration settings in the OPPO. The Crossover frequency can also be set.

NOTE 1: Crossover is not a sudden change. It rolls into effect over the span of about an octave -- a factor of two in frequency. So if you set a Crossover frequency of 80Hz, that means the main speakers are carrying audio in their individual channels above 80Hz, and that between 80Hz and 40Hz the audio is carried by a mix of the speaker and the subwoofer outputs. Below 40Hz the audio in that speaker channel is carried almost entirely by the subwoofer channel. The upshot is that you should pick a Crossover at last twice as high as the lower frequency limit for good quality audio from your speakers. If that's 30Hz then the Crossover should be 60Hz or higher. It is also wise to not set the Crossover too high, as that steers, for example, male voices into the subwoofer. In addition, the audio from the subwoofer becomes "localizable" at higher frequencies, which means you hear audio coming from the direction of the sub instead of from the direction of the speaker where it is intended. Low bass frequencies on the other hand are not "localizable". The Sub produces low bass by "pressurizing" the entire listening space -- setting up "standing waves". And so that low bass appears to come "from everywhere" -- with no set direction. In particular, not from the location of the sub. The bottom line is that when using Crossover at all, the Crossover frequencies between 60Hz and 90Hz are your best bet. Pick the one that sounds best given your speakers and the "bass response" characteristics of your listening room.

NOTE 2: The industry standard nomenclature of SMALL vs. LARGE is unfortunate. It has nothing to do with the physical size of your speakers. It is simply a way to specify whether you want Crossover processing to happen (SMALL) or not (LARGE).

----------------------------------------

The LFE channel just mentioned is special in that it is a channel designed to carry *LOUD* bass. *ALL* the speaker channels are unlimited in how low they can go in frequency. You can put the lowest of the low bass in any or all of them. But the energy necessary to hear (or more likely, feel) very low bass is pretty significant. And if you put *LOUD* bass like that in the normal speaker channels you would clip those channels.

So the LFE channel is recorded -10dB down from the normal speaker channels -- giving it 10dB additional headroom to carry *LOUD* bass.

The rules of authoring multi-channel audio are that the mixers can not assume listeners will have a sub. So all "critical" bass in the sound design also has to be in the main speaker channels. But *LOUD* bass has its home in the LFE channel.

The Subwoofer output of the OPPO preserves that recording level for LFE. That is, the signal that comes out on the Subwoofer RCA jack is at least -10dB below what comes out on the main speaker RCA jacks. This is so that you can feed the Sub signal through a multi-channel pre-amp (like the multi-channel inputs of an AVR) without clipping that Sub input jack on the AVR.

But before the audio goes to the speakers, "Sub Boost" has to be applied. I.e., that signal from the Sub output jack of the OPPO has to be raised +10dB so it is back up to the same level as is authored into the main speaker channels.

By default, almost all AVRs apply +10dB Sub Boost automatically. If you are using different electronics -- perhaps running the Sub output of the OPPO directly to your Subwoofer - you need to arrange for that Sub Boost yourself. For example by raising the Volume knob on the Sub itself.

An important concept here is that Sub Boost should be applied *EXTERNAL TO* the player. That is, it is not a good idea to try to achieve the needed Sub Boost by raising the Subwoofer Volume Trim in the OPPO. Why? That clipping I just mentioned.

----------------------------------------

If Crossover processing is engaged in the OPPO, there's more audio than just LFE going out on the Analog Subwoofer output jack. You now also have that jack carrying bass "steered" from the channels of speakers you have designated as SMALL.

To accommodate that, whenever Crossover is active in the OPPO an additional -5dB of attenuation is applied to the Analog Subwoofer output jack -- again to prevent "clipping" of that input of a pre-amp. That means the Sub Boost you need to get it back to the level of the main speaker output is now +15dB. To summarize:

1) If no Crossover happening, external Sub Boost should be +10dB.
2) If Crossover happening, external Sub Boost should be +15dB.

How do you achieve that additional +5dB? Well some AVRs and pre-amp processors will have an adjustable Sub Boost setting. Simply change that from +10dB to +15dB.

Otherwise, achieve the additional +5dB by raising the Volume knob on the Sub itself.

NOTE: If you are doing Analog "pass through" in your AVR, raising the Volume on the Sub to achieve the right level of Sub Boost may result in too MUCH bass when you are playing content via digital connections. The solution to THAT problem is to first set Volume on your Sub as needed to get the Analog connection to work. Then in the digital audio settings of your AVR or pre-pro, REDUCE Sub output the same amount to compensate. In most cases, that adjustment will not affect the Analog "pass through" levels and so you now have achieved correct Sub levels both for Analog "pass through" from the OPPO and for Digital content played through your setup.

-------------------------------------------------

There is a gotcha here for folks who want to play multi-channel DSD content using DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion. When the player is set to send DSD directly to the DACs for Analog output (i.e., without first converting that DSD to LPCM) no processing of the audio is possible. No down-mixing, no speaker distance adjustment, and in particular no Crossover processing. All you can do with DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion is Volume control.

And that means even if you have some speakers set to SMALL in the OPPO, they are treated as LARGE when you have DSD going directly to the DACs.

And THAT means the required Sub Boost is now +10dB -- because no Crossover is engaged.

NOTE 1: For those familiar with the design flaw in SACDs regarding LFE level for multi-channel tracks, suffice it to say the OPPO compensates for that automatically. That is when you play a multi-channel LFE track the .1 channel is treated exactly the same as the .1 channel of normal content. This is true regardless of whether you are sending DSD or LPCM to the DACs for Analog output of that multi-channel SACD track. The same -10dB level is produced on the OPPO's Analog output path, meaning the same, default +10dB Sub Boost is needed for both types of content -- plus the additional +5dB if the Crossover is engaged.

NOTE 2: If you screw this up and apply +15dB Sub Boost during DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion instead of the correct +10dB you may not actually hear any problem! Why? Because of that design flaw in the SACD spec I just mentioned. It has caused so many headaches that many studios author their 5.1 SACD tracks with *NOTHING* in the .1 channel! I.e., they author ALL the bass into the 5 main speaker channels. So it is actually 5.0 content packaged as a 5.1 track. So with nothing in the LFE channel -- and no Crossover happening from the main speaker channels -- the Subwoofer output of the OPPO is silent. Meaning there's nothing for the incorrect Sub Boost level to screw up. In the alternative, you may hear WEAK bass (instead of too much). That's because you've gotten used to Crossover processing supporting your main speakers by sending their lowest bass to the Sub. But that doesn't happen when you use DSD-Direct-to-Analog Conversion, so you are now totally dependent on the low bass output characteristics of your main speakers.

-------------------------------------------------

All of the above is complicated to read, but checking whether you've got things set up CORRECTLY is actually pretty easy. Simply play a calibration track and check!

For checking your non-DSD setup, I recommend the LPCM 5.1 or 7.1 Channel ID tracks on AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray (available direct from OPPO).

For checking your DSD setup, I recommend tracks 43-48 -- the speaker level tracks -- found on the 5.1 content of "Stay in Tune with PentaTone", SACD, available on Amazon. Important note: Do NOT use the speaker ID tracks found earlier on that disc for this. Even though those sound the same, the LFE channel for those has an artificial +10dB increase "to make the subwoofer easier to hear". Use tracks 43-48 instead.

It is best to check this using a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter. Set that to Slow response and "C" weighting, and point it straight up towards the ceiling while held at seated ear height at your normal, center seating position. Adjust Volume so that the test tracks are producing roughly 75dB SPL.

If things are set correctly, the main speakers *AND* the Subwoofer will all produce the *SAME* SPL reading with these test tracks. It doesn't matter HOW you have achieved the correct Sub Boost; if you get the same SPL from the Sub as from the main speakers then things are set correctly.

Even set to Slow response, the readings will bounce around a bit, particularly for the Sub. So just do a mental average of them as you check.

===============================

ETA: Things Change!


In the Official 0922 firmware for the 205, released September 25, 2017 in the US, the implementation of the Volume control was changed. See this post:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-bl...l#post54896420

The new Volume control attenuates at -0.5dB per step below Volume 100, instead of the -1.0dB per step used prior to this.

In the discussion above, I mention some equivalences which now have to be adjusted. So for example, reducing output -3dB (if needed) to eliminate Clipping would have equated to Volume 97 before. It now equates to Volume 94 (six steps of -0.5dB per step). Please adjust what you read above, accordingly.

--Bob

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Last edited by Bob Pariseau; 10-03-2017 at 09:30 AM.
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post #292 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 09:09 AM
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^ That screen shot was from this:
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/DACE...20Controle.pdf
I don't know if the filters work the same way in the 205 or not. I don't understand the point, as the differences are all past the limit of most humans hearing anyway. Anyone able to explain?


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Interesting. But also puzzling. For one thing, only 5 charts are shown, but the 205 offers 7 filter choices.
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post #293 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 09:23 AM
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Regarding setting up your Subwoofers and dealing with unfortunate "bass response" characteristics in your listening room: This is a complicated topic.

However there's a whole Forum here on AVS where folks talk about just such stuff! For example you can learn about the importance of setting your Sub to be In Phase with your main speakers. If you have more than one Sub, they also need to be In Phase with each other.

And you can learn that at bass frequencies, even a shift of a few inches of Sub position will change how its output "couples" to the bass response of your room. Often adjusting the Sub position is your first and best way of tackling room bass issues.

Etc., etc. I don't want to turn this thread into another tutorial on how to do Subwoofer stuff, but questions are certain to arise. So please see if you can find answers in the Subwoofer setup Forum first, and then ask here if the application of those techniques to your OPPO setup still leaves you puzzled.
--Bob

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I just got my new 205 connected to the LG 65B6P. I was well versed on video settings in the HD era, but this is my first experience with 4K and HDR. Can someone point me in the right direction for video configuration of the two components? Any help is appreciated.
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I just got my new 205 connected to the LG 65B6P. I was well versed on video settings in the HD era, but this is my first experience with 4K and HDR. Can someone point me in the right direction for video configuration of the two components? Any help is appreciated.
For a starting point on video settings for the 205 I suggest you take a gander at Bill's developing FAQ for the 203, found here:

http://watershade.net/wmcclain/UDP-203-faq.html

For the LG, it's the usual trick of disabling all the crufty extra processing TV makers love to leave turned on by default, and selecting a Picture Mode more suitable for quality viewing --(like ISF Expert (Dark Room), and HDR Standard. Be aware that your LG automatically switches to and entirely different set of picture modes (and settings) when you send it HDR content. So you have to check setting first sending "normal" content, and then again while sending HDR content. The same confusion happens when you send 3D content. Or view content from any of its built-in Internet apps. Lots and lots of settings to check....

For the LG, at the bottom of its General settings you will find HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color. This is a per HDMI input setting, defaulting to OFF, and must be turned ON for the input you are feeding from the OPPO in order to get HDR into the LG.
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post #296 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gregeas View Post
I just got my new 205 connected to the LG 65B6P. I was well versed on video settings in the HD era, but this is my first experience with 4K and HDR. Can someone point me in the right direction for video configuration of the two components? Any help is appreciated.
The FAQ has recommended settings for the player when using the E6, and the B6 will be the same: Recommended Settings.

There are threads on the displays themselves. Make sure you have HDMI Deep Color turned on to use HDR. Must be done for each HDMI input where you need it.

-Bill

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post #297 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 10:00 AM
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The FedEx guy naturally arrived at my house to deliver the 205 just as I was leaving for a Drs Appointment which just added to the wait before I could get to play with it. First impression is this thing is a beast, size of it reminds me of my old Denon 2500 Transport Bluray player. Got it all connected just now, updated firmware and now streaming some music. Ill update later after it plays some but early impression is similar to others that the 205 has a little more punch to it musically than the 203

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Bob and wmcclain: Thanks for the guidance!
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There's a setting in the OPPO for Power On Volume, and a separate setting for Max Volume. Both are available when you set Output Volume to VARIABLE.

The Power On Volume setting gives you a choice of a fixed, numeric value, or "LAST", which is I believe what you are looking for.

--------------------------------

ETA: If you are connecting through a Receiver then normally you would use the *RECEIVER* for Volume control instead of the OPPO. In that case the correct Volume setting in the OPPO is 100 (or "FIXED") to send the full scale signal to the Receiver.

The advice above about starting at low Volume until you find the right Volume setting in the OPPO applies when you are connecting directly to an Amp -- i.e, where there is no Volume control external to the player.
--Bob
Bob, I really appreciate your advice to insure no issues connecting up to my MAC6700 using the XLR outputs. A very discernible improvement over the 203 for CD audio. I followed your instructions and started at 40 for the volume and it was very faint so I worked my way up to 100 safely.

I checked out rest of the 205 using an HDR DVD. HDMI Main to Denon X6300H with MAC6700 set to pass through yielded the same performance as 203, as expected. I have the X6300H HDMI monitor output directly into my LG OLED65E6P tv using HDMI 1 so I did not need to make any adjustments to the TV to enable HDR. Other HDMI inputs had the Deep Color set to off. Guessing it comes from factory with HDMI 1 enabled so if someone runs from the 205 to another HDMI input then they would need to turn on the feature.
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post #300 of 7324 Old 04-28-2017, 01:40 PM
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The Asynchronous USB DAC Input of the OPPO 205 is Stereo only -- either LPCM or DSD. That works now. The driver (only needed for Windows computers -- Mac and Linux systems already have what's needed) is available on the Support page for the 205, here:

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-u...5-Support.aspx

I've not seen any statement from OPPO yet on whether multi-channel USB DAC Input is even possible with this hardware. My guess would be "No", but I could be surprised here.

For now, that would mean using HDMI, Optical or Coax from the computer to get multi-channel audio into the 205. Of course if the multi-channel file types you are playing are ones the 205 itself can play, then you can play them from an attached USB drive, or streamed over your house network from either an SMB or DLNA server.
--Bob
Well the Oppo 105 was not able as an USB dac to decode multi channel, what I then already thought of as a missed opportunity and I hade hope now that the upgrade replacement machine 205 would be able to do this. It certainly has the framework for it to really want it.
Of course maybe not too many people would need it, but also professionally one would then be able to use digital workstations and use the Oppo as a sound device in surround (now only via HDMI perhaps in surround) otherwise via USB in stereo.

For the moment the extra features almost not make an upgrade from my Oppo 95 necessary and also not from the 105 (95 does not play DSD via usb disc and network, which the 105 does do), which then seems to have the same playback facilities in audio as the 205 (?)
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