Originally Posted by Fastfwd
As noted above - I just went through an ordeal with not fully understanding the Dolby Vision spec allowing it to be 'wrapped' in 8bit RGB to pass through legacy devices presumably idk. You might just want to keep that in mind though. My Denon receiver can 'read' the data passing through is how I got tripped up on this.
I also have a LG C9 and to my knowledge there isn't any way to check the technical specifics of what signal is being output to the screen. It supposedly takes that 8bit RGB and unwraps it into 10/12 bit 4/4/4 or 4/4/2 - I honestly don't know specifically about color space for DV done this way.
I did want to express my apologies for jumping to conclusions that something wasn't right with the Sony player. It was the Dolby Vision spec and I've since watched at least one disc - Jurassic Park: Fallen Kingdom (?) that looks pretty sweet with Dolby Vision turned on. It also upscales 1080p nicely too!
This is good information. I also just read about that DV wrapped in 8bit to pass though thing, so I guess it is all right on the player side then. I hope my TV really understand and can switch to right mode. I'm not sure is there any way to force C9 in case it does not automatically switch to right mode?
Originally Posted by Terry78
Apple devices also have trouble connecting with SSID hidden. I’ve had to broadcast because of this. Hidden SSID only stoos the most elementary attackers and they’re not the ones you need to worry about.
My LG E6 reports correct color space, e.g., BT.2020, from discs played on my 800M2.
Originally Posted by mrvideo
Instead of using DHCP to assign an IP address, assign the IP address in the player. Use an address that it outside of the range serviced by the DHCP server.
It does not seem to be DHCP issue since it seems to be losing connection right after turning ssid back to hidden. Anyway, I have also known for quite some time hiding ssid does not really do any good in regards of security. It is just old habit die hard thing as I have kept using the same vulgar ssid name always and I have just kept it hidden for that reason even these days and since all my gear, including Apple devices have been working with it fine, I never gotten around changing it. I guess now it is time for that.
Originally Posted by hodgjy
So, I bought this player back in January, but I returned it after a few days because it made loud cracking noises when the unit heated up and had thermal expansion. I wrote about this previously, and others said they didn't have the issue. Based on this, I bought another one thinking that I had a rare exception and the new one wouldn't make any cracking noises.
Well...the new player still made loud cracking noises during thermal expansion. Drove me nuts, so I also returned that one.
What gives? Am I extremely unlucky? Do all players crack, but I'm just more sensitive to it? I noticed that it made more cracking noises when the optical drive was in use. Using Netflix didn't seem to do it as often or as loudly, so maybe the optical drive generated more heat.
The players were not enclosed in a cabinet, so they had ample space to breathe.
If it makes a difference, both players had a December 2019 manufacturing date. Maybe that batch was made with slightly different parts or quality of materials. At this point I'm not giving the player a third chance until I can somehow track down what is causing variation in this noise pattern. Also, Best Buy might blackball me if I buy and return the player for a third time.
I love the features of this player, especially since it properly handles 24.000 fps material on Netflix. It's a shame I've had bad luck.
On a related note, people describe this player as whisper quiet. While it is quiet with 2K discs, DVDs, and CDs, playing 4K discs is quite loud. I can clearly hear the spinning in my seating position while listening at regular volume. Both players were identical. So, once again, am I unlucky or just more sensitive?
I haven't noticed mine making those cracking noises and I have it even pretty tightly stacked underneath another player but I've had it such a short time I have very limited experience with it.
Also to me it feels much quieter than my other players. I haven't really paid much attention to 4K discs sound but the one I tried I did not notice anything obvious from listening position.
By the way, how do you check manufacturing date? I have no idea when mine was made.
Originally Posted by Lipcsey
I have read way back in this thread that Sony has said that there is no difference in quality between DD+ and the DD on the X800M2; however, I am skeptical about this. I don't know the details of how it converts it though.
I wonder how the conversions from DD+ to DD is made? It seems based on my AV-receiver that it is outputting constantly 640Kbps from Netflix, at least on the few titles I tested with. I guess they are actually using that bitrate at least for some material for 4K subscribers. However I think it must be doing some kind of upconversion to lower that 640Kbps titles. It would be interesting to know how lossy these conversions are and is it even possible to convert even DD+ rates to DD without any loss (I mean 640Kbps DD+ to 640Kbps DD)?
Originally Posted by togs
Looking to find a player has 'source direct/original resolution' that will output 1080p 24fps automatically (no setting changes on the gui needed) without either upscaling to 4k or 1080p 60fps.
I have been told the original x800 can do this by enabling 'Original Resolution' and turning '4k Upscaling' off.
Can any owners confirm if this functionality still works on the M2?
There is settings for 24p in the setup menu and it has even choices for different media types, so it looks like it can output 24P even from Netflix. It definitely does that from 4K and 1080p BD's, I've tested it myself. I have display setting automatic, so for my 4K display it automatically also upconvert 1080p BD's to 4K 24p. I think it works without upconverting too as it has separate settings for 24p output.