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post #811 of 1010 Old 11-12-2016, 09:08 PM
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What software are you using for home theater sketches you are showing?
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post #812 of 1010 Old 11-12-2016, 11:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
What software are you using for home theater sketches you are showing?
Google Sketchup, its a free software. There is a little bit of a learning curve but you can find some half decent tutorials out there in www land

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post #813 of 1010 Old 11-16-2016, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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I was having trouble getting OpenPHT to play my MKV files with TrueHD until I tried garnuts setting below from the Plex Thread
Thought I would archive them here in case I need them in the future.... or if anyone else has this issue
Most I had right but the WASAPI was the trick

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Originally Posted by garnuts View Post
I don't have any problems with 7.1 Dolby True HD tracks using OpenPHT on a Win 7 HTPC. Below are my settings:

Under: Preferences> System Settings> Audio Output:

-Audio Output Device: WASAPI: HDMI-DenonAVR....

-Number of Channels: 7.1

-Stereo upmix: UNCHECKED

-Support 8 channel DTS-HD audio decoding: UNCHECKED

-Enable passthrough: CHECKED

-Passthrough output device: Same as output device above

-Then CHECK all the output modes your AVR can support:
--Dolby Digatal (AC3)
--Dolby Digital Plus (E-AC3)
--DTS Capable receiver
--TrueHD
--DTS-HD

.

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post #814 of 1010 Old 11-23-2016, 05:50 PM
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Thanks

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Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Google Sketchup, its a free software. There is a little bit of a learning curve but you can find some half decent tutorials out there in www land
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post #815 of 1010 Old 11-30-2016, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Just checking in..... with a minor update
WOW it takes a looooong time to transfer 4Tb off the NAS to miscellaneous drives..... now to start ripping apart the NAS and computers to do the HDD shuffle.


Also been busy working on Submaximus V3, what a beast!!! She's a thing of beauty

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post #816 of 1010 Old 12-02-2016, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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What are people using to test the integrity of their HDD?

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post #817 of 1010 Old 12-02-2016, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
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What are people using to test the integrity of their HDD?
Depends on the brand of the drive. I think just about all of mine are Seagate, so I use SeaTools. Depending on the results, I will run Lowvel and completely wipe the drive and start fresh if possible.
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post #818 of 1010 Old 12-05-2016, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Depends on the brand of the drive. I think just about all of mine are Seagate, so I use SeaTools. Depending on the results, I will run Lowvel and completely wipe the drive and start fresh if possible.
Thanks, the ones I have are Seagate also...... they all passed.

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post #819 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 08:05 AM
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That looks great! I want to do something similar
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post #820 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 08:12 AM - Thread Starter
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That looks great! I want to do something similar
Thanks n3xtgen

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post #821 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
I've been ripping movies lately using MakeMKV and was not really paying attention to the capacity on my NAS. Then I get an email from My NAS saying hey you only have 10% left and with finishing a few more I wanted to get done I am <5%..... OOPS.
The Lenovo NAS consists of two 4Tb drives in a Raid 1 configuration (I know I know I was still learning when I fired it up) so really I only have 3.6Tb capacity.
So now I am reevaluating my media storage and looking for suggestions.
I have a few HD kicking around, one 3Tb, two 1Tb and three other tiny ones I should really get rid of

Options and random thoughts that I am contemplating:
1) Move all my files onto temporary drives then reconfigure the NAS to Raid 0 like I probably should have done in the first place
2) Drivepool: In my HTPC I could move around some drives and use drive pool (have to check how many HD bays)

A) Compressing some/all files. I am unsure of how much this will degrade the quality of the files
B) Get rid of some Junk.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Water! Silly question time: why rip all the movies and go through the whole HTPC thing? I"m a geek so its not that I doubt, simply that I'm ignorant. How does it work and what makes it worth the effort (as opposed to renting a blu-ray and watching the thing old school)?
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post #822 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
Water! Silly question time: why rip all the movies and go through the whole HTPC thing? I"m a geek so its not that I doubt, simply that I'm ignorant. How does it work and what makes it worth the effort (as opposed to renting a blu-ray and watching the thing old school)?
Hey man not a silly question, for me it was about organizing and convenience
Organization, I don't really have a shelf or place for all my physical media so once I rip I put the disks in a box in a storage closet. On the computer I can arrange the movies however I like and consolidate some of the movies in to collection... like Star Wars.

Convenience, having all the movies available via the server and player (Plex and OpenPHT at the moment) is just so easy to find any title that I have with out rummaging through the physical media. It also tracks watched / unwatched and I can stop and return where I was another day. The server also gathers any metadata so I have images and description on each movie. You can even search for a title. I also use my HTPC for DSP and REW so having it all in one spot in the rack is nice.

Ripping was pretty easy with MakeMKV, insert disk, start and walk away comeback later and move to the appropriate folder and done
I made it more cumbersome by deciding to move the media all around (off NAS and on to local HDD's).... hope it will be right move

Hope this helps

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post #823 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Some REW measurements

Left and Right With Subs showing with and without Audyssey


Waterfall with Audyssey


Waterfall without Audyssey


Captured these with the intent of comparing before and after insulation behind the screen wall

Thoughts?
More?
Different ones?

Also going to post them in REW thread
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post #824 of 1010 Old 12-06-2016, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmmmm.... somethings changed and not for the better....
Old measurment Left & Sub with Audyssey

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post #825 of 1010 Old 12-11-2016, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a recommendation to try the toe in of my LR in the REW thread for improving the 200Hz dip..... no real difference that I see
NOTE: removed all delays and PEQ on sub thats why that looks different from before


All with no Audyssey XO at 100Hz. front 3 speakers are all Mackie C200's
Pink is straight forward with subs..... I also ran the other positions with subs to see if it was a inteaction think with the subs but no difference
Green is with L&R straight forward
Purple pointing to MPL
Red pointing to the far chairs

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post #826 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Had a recommendation to try the toe in of my LR in the REW thread for improving the 200Hz dip..... no real difference that I see
NOTE: removed all delays and PEQ on sub thats why that looks different from before


All with no Audyssey XO at 100Hz. front 3 speakers are all Mackie C200's
Pink is straight forward with subs..... I also ran the other positions with subs to see if it was a inteaction think with the subs but no difference
Green is with L&R straight forward
Purple pointing to MPL
Red pointing to the far chairs
No insulation to speak of behind your speakers atm correct? Nor bass traps of any sort?

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post #827 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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No insulation to speak of behind your speakers atm correct? Nor bass traps of any sort?
Nope nothing, this is all pre insulation measurements.
No acoustic treatments at all
Hoping to install the insulation behind screen during my Christmas break

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post #828 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Had a recommendation to try the toe in of my LR in the REW thread for improving the 200Hz dip..... no real difference that I see
NOTE: removed all delays and PEQ on sub thats why that looks different from before


All with no Audyssey XO at 100Hz. front 3 speakers are all Mackie C200's
Pink is straight forward with subs..... I also ran the other positions with subs to see if it was a inteaction think with the subs but no difference
Green is with L&R straight forward
Purple pointing to MPL
Red pointing to the far chairs



Purple is flattest between 15khz and 20khz. Or maybe holisticallyv viewd - flatter through the treble range - so that's probably the way you should keep them aimed. If you have EQ on for this test, you need to retest with EQ off before you decide.


As BeastAudio said, it might be time to consider some room treatments.

You might also consider doing a close mic measurement like this shown in post 31 to verify where you are starting from - so you compare to where it goes at your MLP.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post28545098



This is my Mackie C200 close mic measured (with a poly stuffed cab) as tested, as pictured in my avatar photo.


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Last edited by Archaea; 12-12-2016 at 12:08 PM.
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post #829 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Purple is flattest between 15khz and 20khz. Or maybe holisticallyv viewd - flatter through the treble range - so that's probably the way you should keep them aimed. If you have EQ on for this test, you need to retest with EQ off before you decide.
I agree Purple is flatter through the treble range and will probably move them to that position, although with AUD on it seams to bring it up some
These measurements were with AUD off

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it might be time to consider some room treatments.
Yes, first off will be the filling of the "cavity" behind the screen

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
You might also consider doing a close mic measurement like this shown in post 31 to verify where you are starting from - so you compare to where it goes at your MLP.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post28545098
This is my Mackie C200 close mic measured (with a poly stuffed cab) as tested, as pictured in my avatar photo.
OH shoot.... this was on my hit list.... I could have done a couple when the screen was down last night... ugh.... next time
Would the close range be with the speakers insitu and not pulled out like the test you did for stuffing test?

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post #830 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 12:38 PM
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Might be interesting to test both.
See what your permanent wall installation close mic looks like as opposed to free standing if you have a speaker stand.


Realize, the measured frequency response is susceptible to pretty massive swings by relatively minor mic position movements which I can easily see on the omnimic because it allows for real time sweeps.




What is your smoothing set to with REW? EQ is assumedly on in those captures? (EQ "off" wouldn't typically look like that I don't think) - - did you run all eight positions? How wide were your mic position points for the Audyssey capture?

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post #831 of 1010 Old 12-12-2016, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Might be interesting to test both.
See what your permanent wall installation close mic looks like as opposed to free standing if you have a speaker stand.
Ok I will try but unfortunately I do not have a speaker stand

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Realize, the measured frequency response is susceptible to pretty massive swings by relatively minor mic position movements which I can easily see on the omnimic because it allows for real time sweeps. .
Yes I have seen your great video before on the variance that can occur and I did do some test with moving the Mic 2 inches from my "typical" MLP position to also see the changes




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What is your smoothing set to with REW? EQ is assumedly on in those captures? (EQ "off" wouldn't typically look like that I don't think) .
Smoothing is at 1/6 in REW
I happen to have access to the measurements attached in this post handy if you want to see different smoothing

No Audyssey is off

This is the result with Audyssey on
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post #832 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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did you run all eight positions? How wide were your mic position points for the Audyssey capture?
I missed these....
Yes typically all 8
I try to do per the recommendation I think its about 2 ft

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post #833 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
Ok I will try but unfortunately I do not have a speaker stand


Yes I have seen your great video before on the variance that can occur and I did do some test with moving the Mic 2 inches from my "typical" MLP position to also see the changes





Smoothing is at 1/6 in REW
I happen to have access to the measurements attached in this post handy if you want to see different smoothing

No Audyssey is off

This is the result with Audyssey on
Turn off smoothing and look at that dip at 100hz. Make sure you subs and speakers are not out of phase. It could be a room artifact. It could be a phase issue.


Otherwise - it looks good to me with Audyssey on at that mic position. You are in a pretty tight +- tolerance after EQ. (with the bass run hot for preference)

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post #834 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Turn off smoothing and look at that dip at 100hz. Make sure you subs and speakers are not out of phase. It could be a room artifact. It could be a phase issue.


Otherwise - it looks good to me with Audyssey on at that mic position. You are in a pretty tight +- tolerance after EQ. (with the bass run hot for preference)
Here is the unsmoothed... I am unsure how to identify a phase issue .... I might have to tweak XO's a little (currently 100Hz)
Cool.... ya bass is a little hot and might get hotter
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post #835 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 10:42 AM
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is it only me or is that unsmoothed sweep pic a broken link?



You can check phase by simply reversing the speaker wire connectors (red to black/black to red) ---- or subwoofer connectors. But only one or the other.

So either switch both mains, or switch both subs. (The mains may all be in phase together, and the subs may all be in phase together --- but the subs may not be in phase with the mains)

What you are looking for in your unsmoothed measurement is to see a smooth crossover region where the subs cross to the mains. If there is a dip there - there might be a problem. So switch one back and forth and whichever is flattest in that 80-100hz region where you are crossing over - that is the wiring arrangement you keep. Audyssey can't detect this problem. Your manual measuring can. It's hard to see in a smoothed graph, easier to see unsmoothed.

Post 680 in the following thread will show you my own failure on this subject -- so you'll know what to look for.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post33827297

Fortunate for me, Desertdome happened to be the one to measure my room not using smoothing and pointed this out so I could have it fixed for the upcoming 2017 crawl.

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post #836 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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@Archaea tried a relink.... posting has been a little glitchy for me

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post #837 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 12:11 PM
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When you try the flip it'll either measure worse or better. Give it a shot. I'll be interested to see if that 100hz dip goes away or gets worse.




TURN OFF ALL EQ BEFORE YOU DO ANY VERIFICATION.


You are measuring only one main speaker at a time with your subs right? If not - do that.


Also to make sure your subs are firing in phase with each other, you'll want to turn one off, and only have one playing - capture a sweep. Then add the second one at the same amplifier gain settings and make sure your overall sweep SPL is higher after the second one is turned on. That'll confirm the subs are both in phase. Then verify the subs and mains are in phase properly.

Archaea's 9.12.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
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post #838 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
When you try the flip it'll either measure worse or better. Give it a shot. I'll be interested to see if that 100hz dip goes away or gets worse.
TURN OFF ALL EQ BEFORE YOU DO ANY VERIFICATION.
You are measuring only one main speaker at a time with your subs right? If not - do that. I was not but did on these runs
Also to make sure your subs are firing in phase with each other, you'll want to turn one off, and only have one playing - capture a sweep. Then add the second one at the same amplifier gain settings and make sure your overall sweep SPL is higher after the second one is turned on. That'll confirm the subs are both in phase. Then verify the subs and mains are in phase properly.
So I ran home at Lunch to do some quick measurements....
Hope they are helpful

NOTE: all have a 2ms delay on subs

2 subs on Red=0 phase Black= 180 degrees. (toggled in inuke DSP software)
no smoothing No Aud


Sub comparison 0 phase No Aud


Left and Right with 2 subs and phase flipping No Aud




Left with 2 subs and phase flipping WITH Aud


Right with 2 subs and phase flipping WITH Aud
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post #839 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterboy77 View Post
So I ran home at Lunch to do some quick measurements....
Hope they are helpful

NOTE: all have a 2ms delay on subs

2 subs on Red=0 phase Black= 180 degrees. (toggled in inuke DSP software)
no smoothing No Aud
It appears you only changed the phase on one of the two subwoofer drivers in the iNuke Amp? (are you running a single amp or two amps? --maybe you only changed one of the amps? or needed to 180 phase in both A and B output tabs if a single amp.) If the subwoofer drivers are out of phase the overall volume will drop as you saw with the black line. if the subwoofer drivers are in phase with each other, but out of phase with the mains - then the overall subwoofer volume should be about the same as before --- just you'll see a dip, or won't see a dip around the crossover point.

Until we get the two subwoofer drivers in phase with each other I can't tell much of anything with any degree of reliability.

Archaea's 9.12.4 Home Theater Room
(13) JBL CBT 70j-1 | Denon x7200wa | Sherbourn PA 7-350 amplifier | (8) Ultimax 18" sealed subwoofers | (4) iNuke DSP 6000 amplifiers | (4) MB Quart 12" subwoofers mounted direct mounted to Berkline theater chairs BOSS style | Epson 5040UB Projector | Jamestown 144" acoustic transparent 2.35:1 screen w/ Seymour XD fabric
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post #840 of 1010 Old 12-13-2016, 05:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
It appears you only changed the phase on one of the two subwoofer drivers in the iNuke Amp? (are you running a single amp or two amps? --maybe you only changed one of the amps? or needed to 180 phase in both A and B output tabs if a single amp.) If the subwoofer drivers are out of phase the overall volume will drop as you saw with the black line. if the subwoofer drivers are in phase with each other, but out of phase with the mains - then the overall subwoofer volume should be about the same as before --- just you'll see a dip, or won't see a dip around the crossover point.

Until we get the two subwoofer drivers in phase with each other I can't tell much of anything with any degree of reliability.
Ya I messed up and was only toggling the phase on channel A.
One 6000dsp for both 21's Channels A and B
Hope this one is better..... except I am confused even more as there was no difference at all between 0 and 180
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