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post #1 of 14 Old 07-26-2015, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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On-wall Speaker Placement

This weeks project is to move my plasma up 5", install a PowerBridge cable management system and GoldenEar SuperSat 50 speakers. Ordered in-wall speaker cable from monoprice and my question is how far from the plasma should I mount the speaker so that I do not get audio reflection from the wall on the right? The plasma sticks out 5" from the wall and the right wall is 22" from the plasma so I was thinking I would mount the speaker 10" from the side of the plasma, which is 12" from the wall. Will be mounting the center channel above the plasma and tilting downward. Will be using either EZ Ancor drywall twist and lock or toggler snap skru drywall anchor rated at 50lbs. Will be running the speaker wire through the wall and using a wall grommet/bushing where the speaker wire goes into and out of the wall.

Other suggestions/tips? Thanks






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post #2 of 14 Old 07-26-2015, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Actually, think I will use snap toggle instead. Just ran my stud finder horizontally where I plan to drop speaker wire and there is a fire wall about halfway between where I want to drill a hole for my speaker wires and the baseboard. Is there another way to bypass the firewall than drilling a hole in it and dropping cable? Trying to keep from having to cut and patch drywall.


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post #3 of 14 Old 07-26-2015, 05:31 PM
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Is the fireblock located behind the TV? You could put in a recessed outlet TV box behind the TV, and use that cutout to drill up, using that stud bay for the speaker cable.

Then, drill across from that TV box cutout, to the speaker.

You sure it's a fireblock, and not something else? Might be worth a try, from above, with some fish stix/glow rods. Check the other stud bays for the same obstruction, at similar height.

Drilling blindly across studs is dangerous. Romex may be stapled on the other side. You may be better off cutting drywall.

I have 4-5 foot Flexbits that I've used for bottom plates, but only drilled blindly once, got lucky, no problem. Romex isn't commonly stabled under bottom plates, but I've avoided drilling into a central vac conduit by cutting into the garage soffit below, and inspecting.

Another way is to use the baseboard to hide the horizontal runs, from the TV. Pull the baseboard, channel or cut the drywall, run the cable(s), replace baseboard.

If you have carpet, there is usually room to squeeze the cable in between the baseboard and carpet, but you could still need to run the speaker cables up behind the drywall.

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-26-2015, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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On-wall Speaker Placement

@Neurorad - thanks and Yes, I'm putting in a recessed TV box behind the TV and raising the plasma 5 inches. The box is a PowerBridge [http://www.powerbridgesolution.com]. I checked for more horizontal studs this morning and seems as though I have one goes horizontally the entire length of the wall. I believe my outlet and coax are attached to it, pic below.


I plan to run the speaker wire along the baseboard and up the wall but if the horizontal 2x4 is carrying electricity, I don't want any part in drilling a hole there.

Suggestions?


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post #5 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 02:47 AM
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I missed that your 'fireblock' is between the baseboard and the speaker.

That seems low for a fireblock.

Cut holes behind your speakers and TV. The holes will be hidden. Cover the double gang size hole(s) behind the TV with blanks plates. Speakers will hide speaker holes.

Use painters tape to mark studs, and speakers. Locate the speakers so you'll be able to see the studs from both sides. You may need to use a long (12-18") drill bit so you can reach the stud from your hole.

Did you find a 'fireblock' in the TV stud bay, that will obstruct you from using a power bridge?

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post #6 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 03:20 AM - Thread Starter
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On-wall Speaker Placement

I'm in the planning and buying supplies stage and will be doing the actual work Saturday. There's a stud that runs horizontally from the top of the two outlets. I believe the TV is large enough(60") for me to find an area for a single gang box but will have to cut thru a couple fire breaks to drop cable. I live a townhouse so there may be more firebreaks than a normal home. I bought a flex bit to drill through the fire wall. Concerned about drilling into Romex but will be staying away from power outlets.



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post #7 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 05:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
I missed that your 'fireblock' is between the baseboard and the speaker.

That seems low for a fireblock.
I thought so too that's why I was thinking that my power line could be running horizontally since the 2x4 runs just above the electric and cable box. But doesn't most electrical cable run vertically?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
Cut holes behind your speakers and TV. The holes will be hidden. Cover the double gang size hole(s) behind the TV with blanks plates. Speakers will hide speaker holes.

Use painters tape to mark studs, and speakers. Locate the speakers so you'll be able to see the studs from both sides. You may need to use a long (12-18") drill bit so you can reach the stud from your hole.
Below is a pic of the PowerBridge gang box, shouldn't be difficult to hide somewhere behind the TV. I'm more concerned with drilling through the fire block and hitting electrical cords but after seeing several youtube videos, it doesn't look that difficult. I'll cut a u shaped hole above the fire block and drill a 1 or 2 inch hole using a flex bit and drop my cables down and then seal with fire sealant caulking and then patch and paint the drywall. Unfortunately, there are several fire blocks to drill thru so it may be time consuming. I plan to run the speaker wire right up the where the speaker terminals will be

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
Did you find a 'fireblock' in the TV stud bay, that will obstruct you from using a power bridge?
Haven't taken the TV off the wall yet, I plan on doing so Saturday when I move it up 5 inches. I've been marking everything with painters tape.

PowerBridge Gang Box


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Last edited by mbroadus; 07-27-2015 at 06:34 AM.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 12:09 PM
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Fireblocks are always horizontal, and always 1 per stud bay. If there are more than one, they're probably not fireblocks, and put there for another reason. They're usually at chest height, because that's the easiest height to install them, for the framer.

How high off the baseboard are these 'fireblocks' located?

Flexbit - not what you pictured. Since you've since watched youtube vids, I should assume you now know what they are. But I won't:



Depending on the height of the blocks, you may be able to hit them from below with an 18" stiff drill bit - much easier to use than a Flexbit.

Cutting small holes behind the speakers will make your life easier, whether you come from below, or from the side (from the TV). The holes will be covered by the on-wall speakers. Make the hole wide enough so you can slip your phone camera in, to snap a pic of the 'fireblock'/obstruction.

You can probably hit the 'fireblocks' from the speaker holes, with a stiff bit, drilling down. Make the speaker drywall holes near the bottom of the speakers. Measure your speaker wire to determine the bit diameter.

It's much easier to drill down than up, with any bit, but especially Flexbits.

Your speaker wires will come out of the wall down below, behind your equipment. You could use single gang brushed/scoop/nose pass-throughs for those, at outlet height.

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post #9 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 12:15 PM
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For others' benefit - the Flexbit with the screw tip is much easier to work with than the one without, assuming you know there is no Romex on the other side.



I have both.

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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@Neurorad - lots of great information, thank you very much. Trying to find a flexbit that cuts a large enough hole to put a HDMI cable down...maybe 3/4 inch. Will have to measure when I get home.

I bought these bushing to protect the wall where the speaker cable come out of the wall.


I need to find the path of least resistance!

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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The Arlington TV bridge that I bought does not have a Romex cable, that goes from the top to bottom gang box, need to have some cut to length. Is this the correct wire?

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-2...472G/202304609



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post #12 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 10:08 PM
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That's the incorrect product.

You need 6 feet, not 250'.

Look for remnants, in the cable aisle. Ask for help to find 14/2.

You don't need the bushing, behind the speaker. It's hidden completely. Use a hole, 2" by 2", or larger if needed.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-27-2015, 10:10 PM
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Cut the hole behind the TV, for the TV box, and snap some pics with a phone camera, to see the obstruction.

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-28-2015, 03:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
That's the incorrect product.

You need 6 feet, not 250'.

Look for remnants, in the cable aisle. Ask for help to find 14/2.

You don't need the bushing, behind the speaker. It's hidden completely. Use a hole, 2" by 2", or larger if needed.

Yes...this type cut to 6 ft.

Thanks.


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