Family Room Theater Sanity Check - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-09-2017, 10:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Our Family Room/Theater

I finally have the OK to build a home theater in our family room. I have a bunch of limitations, so I'd love a sanity check.
  • The room is 17'6" by 17'5" with a 6ft doorway into the dining room. I can't put doors there, but I am permitted "barn doors" to close it off.
  • The room has a wood burning stove with a brick surround in one corner that also can't go, so I have yet another limitation. So basically, I'm forced to use a 17'6" by 10' section of the room.
  • Right now the plan is to build a cabinet for the A/V which will house our current 63" plasma and mount a drop-down projection screen into it for movie-time.
  • Seating will be approximately 9.5' to 11' from the screen, again, limited by another door. We're empty-nesters, so a single couch is good enough.
  • The projector MUST be placed at the back of the room where I'll be able to "ceiling mount" it inside another bookcase, so projector lens to screen distance will be around 15.5ft.
Sanity Check time:
  • Is a 106" screen too big when you're sitting 10' away? I calculated the viewing angle at around 39-42 degrees.
  • Is the Starling Tab-Tension 2 CineGrey 5D™ Series my best bet for ambient light rejection? I'll be able to close the curtains, draw some shades, and close the barn doors, plus we will really only use the projector at night anyway.
  • With 1.5 gain on the screen, would the Optoma UHD65 be good enough for this

.

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post #2 of 17 Old 08-09-2017, 11:01 AM
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106 will be too small IMHO. I would go with 120"-135"min at that seating distance.

That size is also dependent on what you plan to primarily watch. If it's 95% movies then you may consider a scope screen. If its mostly video games, sports and cable tv, then stick with a 16:9.
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-09-2017, 11:47 AM
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I agree that 106 might be a bit small, but not by much. I sit about 14 feet away from a 163" screen and I think it is about perfect. Wide enough to fill my field of view without having to turn my head. Proportionately, your 10 feet would put you at about a 116" screen.

The Optoma you have listed is a little brighter than my BenQ (which I have in Eco mode and is being projected onto a grey painted wall) but that is also in a basement room with no windows and sliding barn doors to the rest of the basement. If you're not going to have much ambient light, the 2200 lumens should be fine, especially with a 1.5 gain screen.

Pics pf my room are in my signature if you're interested.
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-09-2017, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aberk View Post
106 will be too small IMHO. I would go with 120"-135"min at that seating distance.

That size is also dependent on what you plan to primarily watch. If it's 95% movies then you may consider a scope screen. If its mostly video games, sports and cable tv, then stick with a 16:9.
I initially wanted to go 120", but if I did that I would have to get a acoustically transparent screen because there'd be no room for the L/R speakers.

I can always just move the sofa a foot forward to get the same effect, I guess. I'm looking at making the doorway a foot smaller anyway.
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-10-2017, 07:12 AM
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-10-2017, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aberk View Post
I love AT screens.
Does anyone make a motorized ALR AT screen? I haven't seen one yet, but I'm new to this. This would be my first projector.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-10-2017, 01:14 PM
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Based on your room desc, when you plan to use it and if you have good curtains and shades, I don't think you need an ALR screen.
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post #8 of 17 Old 11-01-2017, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aberk View Post
Based on your room desc, when you plan to use it and if you have good curtains and shades, I don't think you need an ALR screen.
I think I'll document some of my build here... it won't be a full build thread, but maybe it'll be useful to someone (maybe me).

Done so far:
  • Finished putting in engineered hardwood flooring to match the rest of the house
  • Ordered Optoma UHD65 for proof of concept testing from ProjectorPeople
  • Ordered Raceway Crown molding from Home Depot to hide all my speaker cables
  • Ordered two 37"x84" Shaker 3-Panels Natural Rustic Pine Interior Barn Doors from HD
  • Ordered two sets of TMS WoodenSlidingDoor-Hardware Modern Interior Sliding Barn Wooden Door Hardware Track Set, Stainless Steel from Amazon
  • Ordered Denon AVR-X4300H
  • Ordered Klipsch L/R RB-61 and a Center RC-62 from Crutchfield and Frys
  • Ordered a pair of ELAC Debut A4 Atmos-Enabled speakers (they may go back so I can do height speakers instead...)
  • Ordered a Klipsch R-12SWi from Woot so I can have two
Over the weekend, I ordered bookcases for the back (projector) wall. My plan is to hang the Optoma UHD65 from the top shelf, as the wife doesn't want anything ceiling mounted. We decided to get the wall-bracket kind to make it flexible, but went with Hafele to make it also look good. Their brackets connect to the sides of the standards, allowing you to put painted or stained fascia over the standards themselves. We think it'll look good once we're done... https://www.hafele.com/us/en/product...17d5600020023#

For seating, it was between the Flexsteel Catalina loveseat with power headrest and the Fusion Theater Jive. The Jive won out in a |O|OO|O| configuration. Just gave the go-ahead and will pay the invoice this weekend.

Todo:
  • Buy a rug
  • Build the Hafele bookcases. Mount the standards, get some shelf-quality wood from Lowes or HD. Stain and poly? Maybe paint? unknown so far...
  • Hang the projector from the top shelf, get a sense of screen size on the far wall
  • Order a screen. After receiving and testing the UHD65, I think I don't need an ALR screen since we'll only use it at night anyway. Leaning toward a 110" AT screen right now since my speakers are in the way otherwise and would limit me to below 92". Recommendations wanted, but don't tell me about the >$2.5K screens...
  • Find a way to mount the screen from the wall above the TV credenza so that it's about 14 inches from the wall to clear the speakers... should be fun to try to follow the "nothing hangs from the ceiling" rule. Anyone have any ideas? Long bracket?
I think that's enough of an update for now. Would love to see your comments and suggestions!

Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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post #9 of 17 Old 01-23-2018, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Update:
  1. Mounting from the top shelf of the bookcase didn't work - not high enough. Switched to the Chief RPAU mount.
  2. Purchased a 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF motorized screen from Projector Supply. Was going to mount it on top of the high-mounted Ikea Besta cabinets, but didn't trust that it would support the weight, so I ceiling-mounted it just in front of them. Yes, I broke the "nothing hangs from the ceiling" rule.
  3. Switched from a Chief RPAU mount to a Vantage Point CGUPM12 mount so I could have the projector lined up between studs. Don't love it either... may switch back. Any suggestions for mounting 4-5" from the nearest stud without dropping it down more than 6 inches from the ceiling?

Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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post #10 of 17 Old 01-23-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idean View Post
Update:
  1. Mounting from the top shelf of the bookcase didn't work - not high enough. Switched to the Chief RPAU mount.
  2. Purchased a 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF motorized screen from Projector Supply. Was going to mount it on top of the high-mounted Ikea Besta cabinets, but didn't trust that it would support the weight, so I ceiling-mounted it just in front of them. Yes, I broke the "nothing hangs from the ceiling" rule.
  3. Switched from a Chief RPAU mount to a Vantage Point CGUPM12 mount so I could have the projector lined up between studs. Don't love it either... may switch back. Any suggestions for mounting 4-5" from the nearest stud without dropping it down more than 6 inches from the ceiling?
Any suggestions for mounting 4-5" from the nearest stud without dropping it down more than 6 inches from the ceiling?

It sounds like your dilemma is that you need to mount into the stud? You can cut the drywall out and essentially a wooden shelf between the studs to mount into. Either patch the drywall or just paint/replace with cloth/etc...

"Damn, you can't get black levels like that on your projector!"
- My brother, just before he realized his LED display had died.

Link to my Basement build
https://www.avsforum.com/t/1529034/conspiracy-basement-build
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post #11 of 17 Old 01-24-2018, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Conspiracy* View Post
It sounds like your dilemma is that you need to mount into the stud? You can cut the drywall out and essentially a wooden shelf between the studs to mount into. Either patch the drywall or just paint/replace with cloth/etc...
Exactly, I don't feel comfortable hanging it from the drywall alone, so it has to be mounted to the ceiling joists. But of course, since this projector has to be lined up perfectly with no adjustments, it has to be mounted about 4.5 inches from the joist. I don't have attic access, so I have to find another way. Cutting out part of the ceiling and adding a cross-joist is a good idea, but my ceiling is textured and it would be incredibly hard to make the patch look like it belongs.

Another idea is to get the Chief Lateral Shift Bracket LSB100, but it only gives you 3 inches of shift. I'm not sure I can make up the difference elsewhere either.

Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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post #12 of 17 Old 01-24-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by idean View Post
Exactly, I don't feel comfortable hanging it from the drywall alone, so it has to be mounted to the ceiling joists. But of course, since this projector has to be lined up perfectly with no adjustments, it has to be mounted about 4.5 inches from the joist. I don't have attic access, so I have to find another way. Cutting out part of the ceiling and adding a cross-joist is a good idea, but my ceiling is textured and it would be incredibly hard to make the patch look like it belongs.

Another idea is to get the Chief Lateral Shift Bracket LSB100, but it only gives you 3 inches of shift. I'm not sure I can make up the difference elsewhere either.
I have a thought, could you maybe use a board or something to make the span from joist to joist and then mount the projector to that? That way you don't have to retexture the ceiling and you can paint it or stain it or something to make it look nice.
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post #13 of 17 Old 01-25-2018, 09:50 AM
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I have a thought, could you maybe use a board or something to make the span from joist to joist and then mount the projector to that? That way you don't have to retexture the ceiling and you can paint it or stain it or something to make it look nice.
I see people doing that on walls for mounting TV's. I would think it'd work fine on the ceiling as well.
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post #14 of 17 Old 01-25-2018, 09:58 AM
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I see people doing that on walls for mounting TV's. I would think it'd work fine on the ceiling as well.
Exactly and since it would be visible he could dress it up with some molding or something to make it look nice and then paint or stain it to match the rest of the room.
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post #15 of 17 Old 01-25-2018, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I saw someone say something to the effect of "A home theater project is complete whenever the projector is hung, even if there's plenty of other work to be done".

This is as true a statement as I've ever seen, since now that I can actually use it, I'd rather watch movies than finish all the other little pieces.


My wife doesn't agree with that concept, so I still need to:
  1. Remount the projector properly. I'll probably go with the board spanning two joists to mount the projector to. I agree with everyone above, I think it can work.
  2. Finish the crown molding that's supposed to hide my 437 (estimated) miles of speaker and HDMI cabling.
  3. Finish the bookcase that originally was supposed to contain the projector, but turned out to be not tall enough
  4. Move the rug forward. It involves moving all my home theater seats first... arghhh.
  5. Replace my old Cambridge Front Height speakers with new Cambridge Minx Min 12 speakers to match my Rear Height speakers.
  6. Replace my very old Cambridge Surround rear speaker with something decent that isn't a dipole. It was an idea to re-use a speaker that just didn't work.

Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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post #16 of 17 Old 09-30-2019, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Like a BOSS

I'm not quite happy with my subwoofer situation, so I'm building a BOSS platform:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post58590466

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...l#post58621238

Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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post #17 of 17 Old 10-12-2019, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Micro-BOSS finished

What I love about it:
  • Huge BANG for my buck
  • Almost invisible for WAF
  • Did it myself
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Denon AVR-X4300H | Klipsch RB-61/RC-62 LCR | Klipsch R-12sWi | Cambridge MINX MIN 12 Front and Rear Heights
Micro-BOSS | Optoma UHD65 | 103" Seymour AV Center Stage UF AT screen
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