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post #1 of 59 Old 11-02-2017, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Corradizo's Theater Area

I'm moving on up from a tv, Monoprice inwalls and diy kit subs to a 120" 16:9 Silver Ticket AT screen, diy Fusion 8 speakers for LCR and am upping my woofage game to 4 diy large low tuned ported subs. It is all going to fit behind the screen in our basement "media area" which is the end of a large cove in the basement. Since I'm installing a PJ and screen I'm calling it the "Theater Area". Projector will be here on Saturday. I went with a short throw Optoma GT1080 Darbee edition. Pics and updates to come..

Optoma GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5..._b4k2fNd5Qim8j


Cheetah Mounts APMFW Universal Projector Ceiling Mount. Includes an Adjustable Extension Pole and Twisted Veins 15" HDMI Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SKR8ZN..._RQNBUO6qu4V5A

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Last edited by corradizo; 11-12-2017 at 08:25 PM.
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post #2 of 59 Old 11-02-2017, 07:27 PM
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post #3 of 59 Old 11-02-2017, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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This is the current setup. The mini speakers are not connected. The in walls are not connected. Tv is a 60" Sharp Aquos. Receiver is a Denon x2200w. Surrounds are all 8" in-ceiling from Monoprice. I had them installed before I got into this hobby and it turns out they are in the right spot for Atmos! Waf dictates that the side surrounds have to be in-ceiling so for now I have it wired up as 5.1.2. Subwoofers are dual 18" in sealed diysg 4cuft cabs powered by a iNuke 3000 DSP.

The console will go and the tv will come down, inwalls removed, cavities stuffed with insulation for bass trapping.


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post #4 of 59 Old 11-02-2017, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Rendering of what I'd like it to look like when done and where the projector will go. The front of the lens will be about 55" from the 120" silver ticket AT screen. Screen will be framed with curtains.

I need to figure out how to run the wires inside the walls to the PJ and then screw a 2x4 to the ceiling that vertical 2x4s will attach to so the screen can be mounted. More to come.

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post #5 of 59 Old 11-04-2017, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Everything came in today. I got my power wire, HDMI, projector mount and proj....wait. THEY SHIPPED ME A BLACK CORSET INSTEAD OF MY OPTOMA GT1080 Darbee!!! I'm not joking.

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post #6 of 59 Old 11-07-2017, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Amazon got it right today and my new Optoma GT1080 Darbee showed up! So I went down a assembled the frame on the 120" 16:9 screen and "tested" it. Damn that is big! Can't wait to watch a movie on it!

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post #7 of 59 Old 11-10-2017, 06:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Picked up some lumber tonight. Here are some drawings of the plan. H frame on rubber feet, screwed to the ceiling. Pressure fit panels to clean up the look and conceal equipment. The screen will be 55" from the lens. It has no zoom and a fixed offset so it will require fiddling.

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post #8 of 59 Old 11-12-2017, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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PJ is up. Wiring it's done through the ceiling. Decided (after 2 hours of deliberation) to mount the projector to the arch way rather than the ceiling. The cheetah mount I bought only does a 6" drop or 15-27" drop. This projector has a fixed lens and offset (because it is short throw) so the height of the projector is really important because the top of the screen will be 9" below the center of the lens.

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post #9 of 59 Old 11-13-2017, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
PJ is up. Wiring it's done through the ceiling. Decided (after 2 hours of deliberation) to mount the projector to the arch way rather than the ceiling. The cheetah mount I bought only does a 6" drop or 15-27" drop. This projector has a fixed lens and offset (because it is short throw) so the height of the projector is really important because the top of the screen will be 9" below the center of the lens.

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Pete,

Hey welcome to PJ world! Great to see another Chicago area HT build on here.
Looks like a really nice layout you have planned. Your behind the screen sub-woofer array looks a bit familiar*

I see you also call this an "HT area" as opposed to a dedicated room. That was also my direction. However after enjoying Mike's setup*, I am rethinking my vision for "HT2".
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post #10 of 59 Old 11-14-2017, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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And success! I think I have the PJ set a bit too far back. The picture is about 3" bigger than the screen. Going to mess with it more today and tomorrow. Maybe I'll move the screen closer and make Moar room for Bigger subs.

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post #11 of 59 Old 11-14-2017, 05:54 AM
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post #12 of 59 Old 11-14-2017, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eng-399 View Post
Hey Pete how does the picture look have you fired the protector up on the screen yet.
I think it looks pretty nice but I don't have any black velvet behind there and the walls are not black so I'm getting plenty of light reflecting back.

Funny story to prove I'm a noob projector owner: It was almost 1am last night when I finally got the projector running and it looked a little blurry but i figured maybe I was just tired went to bed right after. I woke up this morning and realized the projector has a focus ring!! lol. I ran downstairs and focused it, looks much better!

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post #13 of 59 Old 11-14-2017, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I read that keystone correction involved compression and is to be avoided if possible. So I removed the mount and screwed onto the wall a couple of 5"x5" pieces of plywood to move the projector a little closer to the screen and to let the angle the projector is mounted enough room to avoid using any sort of digital correction. I also had to move the screen up and down a couple times to get it just right. Ahh the price you pay for livin la vida short throw.

Also sold my 6 year old Sharp Aquos 60" LCD TV for $300 bones! My daughter is holding all the cash!

I think I definitely need the black backing material for my screen. I can see the support bars and in since scenes the image on the back wall itself. I've emailed silver ticket to see if they sell it separately. I also got some good info from eng-399 of where I can buy my own fabric. I need to buy some anyway to make the side panels to surround the screen.
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Last edited by corradizo; 11-14-2017 at 08:12 PM.
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post #14 of 59 Old 11-14-2017, 11:20 PM
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Now I see what your taking about the fabric I was talking about should work fine behind the screen and if your seeing the 2/4’s definitely drape that behind the screen. I have samples of gom and dmd fabric that should help. Joann fabrics has a thinner material that might work to. Once you get these in hand and put it up you’ll see. Looking good man!
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post #15 of 59 Old 11-21-2017, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Picked up some preprimed mdf 1x2 today to make up the panel frames for around the screen. Also installed 3 yards of Parts Express grill cloth directly behind the screen. Can't see the screen supports or the 2x4's although some light does seep all the way through. I guess it should since this is an AT screen and AT fabric behind it. Today I also rewired my speakers after making new interconnects with banana plug tips from Monoprice. Sounds exactly the same, but it looks cooler back there where no one but me will ever look ;-). I ran a full audyssey xt 8 point calibration too. It just sounds great. I never thought it'd like hearing the speakers from behind the screen so much. It just makes the experience so much more enjoyable because that's how it is at the movie theater. It's hard to explain. Oh, the other night I busted out my very old Avia disk and just set the brightness and contrast, it didn't need much of a change but every little bit helps. I'm really impressed with the projector, for the money I think it does a fine job. The kids already like playing the old Wii on it. Being short the means they can walk right up in the screen! Mission accomplished!

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post #16 of 59 Old 12-02-2017, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Lined the back wall with r19 6" thick pink fluffy insulation. This is to comment SBIR as my speaker baffles are about 20" off the wall. So I need to absorb 170hz which is a wave that's about 3' in all directions. Bob Golds absorbtion coefficients page states that the r19 has an nrc if .64 @ 125hz and 1.14 @ 250hz. That should cover the range I need to absorb. Worst case I put another layer on there. A roll is $35. So far I have one role in there.



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post #17 of 59 Old 12-15-2017, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Started the frames for the panels for around the screen. I started painting them tonight before test fitting them. Before I painted the last panel frame I remembered to do that...

Fit was a bit too tight as I plan to have these pressure but into place. I'm going to try to sand them and repaint. Otherwise I'll rebuild them. With the brad nailer it goes very quick.

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post #18 of 59 Old 03-28-2018, 09:46 PM
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Updates?

Marantz 6012 | Dual Full Marty’s with UM18's | iNuke6000DSP | ViewSonic PJD7828HDL | 135” Elite Screen 16:9 | Dual 8” speakercraft LCR | AIM 7 Surrounds | 5.2.2 Currently
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post #19 of 59 Old 03-29-2018, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Updates?
Thanks for reading along. I took a break to make some new subs. I'll add a link later to my thread over in the diy forum. I call these the Periscope subs because of the way I designed the ports.

I hope to have them done this weekend.
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post #20 of 59 Old 03-29-2018, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Started the frames for the panels for around the screen. I started painting them tonight before test fitting them. Before I painted the last panel frame I remembered to do that...

Fit was a bit too tight as I plan to have these pressure but into place. I'm going to try to sand them and repaint. Otherwise I'll rebuild them. With the brad nailer it goes very quick.

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The primed mdf I used to build these frames was too flimsy. I got three panels built but they are junk. I'm also not happy with the speaker cloth I got from PE, only because it can sometimes look brown depending on the angle. I'm going to start over with stronger wood and will use my trusty kreg pocket hole jig to make strong frames. I'm on the look out for a good Black Velvet fabric that isn't super expensive. I figure to do all of the frames it would take 9 yards.
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post #21 of 59 Old 04-01-2018, 05:01 AM
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You might want to paint your framing out in flat black....
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post #22 of 59 Old 04-01-2018, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
The kids already like playing the old Wii on it.

Also sold my 6 year old Sharp Aquos 60" LCD TV for $300 bones! My daughter is holding all the cash!
She'll need it. A new lamp is $180.
You might want to hook the old Wii back up to a TV.

BTW, those new subs make your sausage sub look like a toy.
Great job!
Michael
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post #23 of 59 Old 04-01-2018, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
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You might want to paint your framing out in flat black....
I did, but in the end they are going to get rebuilt.
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post #24 of 59 Old 04-01-2018, 05:45 AM - Thread Starter
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She'll need it. A new lamp is $180.
You might want to hook the old Wii back up to a TV.

BTW, those new subs make your sausage sub look like a toy.
Great job!
Michael
If we use it that much I'll be happy to buy one! (Until I actually have to for over the money).
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post #25 of 59 Old 04-01-2018, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Installed. I'm one speakon connector short! Be here tomorrow. Haven't had time to play with them due to it being Easter and all. I need to order up some fabric to cover the pink insulation, fan mod the inuke 6000dsp and have lots of tuning to do. Happy Easter!
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post #26 of 59 Old 04-07-2018, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Build a little speaker stand/equipment rack from the leftover wood.

The old one was just a quick and dirty stand that I promptly took apart and put back into the wood scraps pile.
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post #27 of 59 Old 04-07-2018, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I reengineered the way my screen is mounted. I originally had floor to ceiling 2x4's that the screen mounted to. This was way over kill. The screen doesn't weigh that much. I cut the 2x4's down to 24" and screwed them back into place. The problem then is that the screen wants to lean back at the bottom so I added some wood and leftover weather stripping to the wood to make a perfect little spacer that minutes to the screen bracket that then mounts at the bottom on the screen. Each rests on a sub and keeps the screen nice and perpendicular to the projector.

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post #28 of 59 Old 04-07-2018, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm finally really happy with the sound and the picture, it is just awesome! I need help figuring out how to finish. I'm thinking a valence on top, curtains in sides and valence on bottom. I'm open to suggestions!
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post #29 of 59 Old 04-07-2018, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradizo View Post
Each rests on a sub and keeps the screen nice and perpendicular to the projector.
This won't cause vibrations in bass-heavy scenes (we know how you are )?
Michael

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #30 of 59 Old 04-07-2018, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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This won't cause vibrations in bass-heavy scenes (we know how you are )?
Michael
Luckily, I braced the heck out of my cabs and have them resting on carpet padding. I haven't seen the screen vibrate yet. If it does, that would be kinda cool. ;-)
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