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post #1 of 23 Old 02-19-2018, 08:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Bafflesteppe Sound Room

In Jan 2015 my wife and I bought our first home together on top of a big hill in the farmland of Maryland. What that means for you and me is exactly 400 sq ft of quasi-finished, in-ground cinder block basement. I have pretty much a blank slate to work with here as long as there's an unobstructed path to the laundry room in the back of the main room.

This thread will be updated as I make progress and change the room around.

I'm an 90:10 music to theater kinda' guy. Maybe 1% gaming, if I can ever prioritize getting an Xbox One S or build a computer.

THE ROOM

Dimensions:
32' long x 12.5' wide with 7' tall plasterboard ceilings that have stupid HVAC ducting that juts down in areas. I'm 6'2" tall so this does not work easily.
Room type:
Full in-ground basement, cinder block on three of the walls. It opens up to two other spaces via doorways which can't be completely sealed yet.
Walls:
The only wall that isn't cinder block is the left wall, which is thin drywall (back side is open studs). There's also three ceiling-height windows.
Floor:
Poured concrete with drains underneath high traffic carpet. Not much foam, if any. Large shag area rugs covering floor listening and practice areas.
Listening Position:
12' from L/R speakers, center of chaise sofa.

Listening Side Before:


Shortly after moving in:


Jam Side Before:


Shortly after moving in (haha):



CURRENT SETUP



Speakers:
I built a pair of Aviatrix MLTL towers and put them 2' from side walls, 3' from rear wall, toed-in almost dead-on.
Surrounds are two Definitive Technology BP 7006 towers (bipolar front/rear array of two 4.5" drivers with 1" aluminum dome tweeters plus one side-firing 8" powered 300W subwoofer and two 10" passive radiators each). Currently the fuse holders for the plate amps have gone missing so I cant use the subs. Doh.
Receiver:
Pioneer VSX-820 5.1, currently running 4.1 with two rear surrounds and no center (not by choice).
Sources:
Chromecast (Spotify Premium), FiiO X1, Song Blu-ray player, Dual 1009 turntable through cheap phono preamp.
Display:
Epson 1980WU projector on a 120" DIY Spandex screen.

FUTURE PLANS












  • DIY reference main speakers (Statement II, Anthology)

  • Two DIY VBSS PA460-8 subwoofers powered by iNuke 3000DSP [ONE DONE!]
  • Six DIYSG Volt-6 or Volt-8 surround speakers (Atmos included)
  • DIYSG 88-Special center channel speaker
  • New receiver for 7.2.2, and possibly a separate amp for Atmos speakers?
  • HTPC

  • Paint walls and ceiling in flat black in projector area—keeping band side white [DONE!]
  • Remove HVAC ducting?
  • Soundproof ceiling and walls, enclose room with sealed hardwood doors?
  • Build equipment rack into a wall ... somehow
  • Remodel LED can lights in ceiling: six on theater side, six on band side
  • Hide hot water pipes?
  • Try to mount projector higher, closer to ceiling if possible. Projector box?


Thanks for checking it out!
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Last edited by bafflesteppe; 10-29-2018 at 08:14 PM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 02-19-2018, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Built some acoustic panels. Here's the easy as pie method:

1" x 4" standard board (pine?) for the frames, 17" W x 47" L

One sheet of Rockwool Safe n Sound insulation per panel. They're 17" W x 47" L and 3" thick.

I used door/window screen, fiberglass not the steel kind so it was easier to cut with a razor knife, secured with 5/16" staples after some light stretching. The screen is made in rolls (I got a 25 foot long roll and needed some more for 10 panels front and back) and they are 48" wide. Made it really easy to just roll out, staple and stretch, cut and on to the next one.

The plan is to order some movie and music posters printed on acoustically transparent cloth something and wrap it around each panel. I know there's a specific thread (link here) for that that I need to read through.

For the panels...
Initial reaction is very positive. The clap test yields much less echo, but I'm getting a calibrated mic on REW to see what specifically I'm solving here. I know I have a lot of bass reinforcement from the room so bass busters in the corners are next. Then, a Full Marty subwoofer build.

I put three panels on each side, one straddling each corner, and one directly behind each L/R speaker—ten total. I think maybe two more for the front wall, and two cloud panels for the ceiling (only going to be 2" deep there I think since my ceilings are low) are in order. Diffuser panels for the rear wall behind the drums set with some more acoustic panels on the walls after I disassemble the bookshelves and get my walls back.

The panels will be mounted off the walls ~1-2" for best bass absorption using a french cleat. They'll be adjustable since I'll be swapping speakers every once in a while once my DIY bug kicks in and I'll want to fine tune.

I need to cut down the useless coaxial cables buttoned to the heating pipes the run across the ceiling and cover those pipes somehow ... they are unsightly. Long term plan is to tear down the ceiling and throw some mass up there for sound deadening and remove the HVAC ducts since they aren't needed. It stays ~68° down here regardless of the outside weather.,but the band is loud and the sound proofing of his room is necessary. The Marty subwoofer will be loud, too.
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post #3 of 23 Old 02-21-2018, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bafflesteppe View Post
This started out in this thread that happened to be in the wrong subforum, so I made a new thread here.

Two years ago I bought my first home with my wife and I have pretty much a blank slate to work with in the basement. I have an entire room to build out and I have adjacent rooms to house electronics as well. I'm a 90% music, 10% theater type of guy.

Room type: fully in-ground basement, half finished
Walls: Front, right side, and back walls are white painted cinderblock. The block in the rear is leaking and needs to be fixed. Three ceiling-height half windows.
Ceiling: Plasterboard with textures white finish
Dimension: 7' tall ceilings x 32' long x 12.5' wide

The previous owners had the main room down there finished out with heavy duty carpet over the poured concrete that exists in the other four rooms in the basement—they connect to the main room via two open doorways. There's some unnecessary HVAC ducting that juts into your head clearance, so that will all eventually go.

Right now, I'm running 2.0 setup with a pair of DIY Aviatrix MTM MLTLs through a Pioneer VSX-820 receiver. Source is usually a hardwired FiiO X1 loaded with flac files, or streaming over Spotify via Chromecast. I have a Dual turntable through a cheap phono preamp for vinyl. For the time being, I'm using a 52" Mitsubishi WD-52628 that I got for free from a coworker—I'll have to put up with only being able to view video in 720p. My plan is to get a projector in the near future (BenQ W1070 or HT2050 if I can find a good used one).

With that said, the room doesn't sound horrid: the Aviatrix are the best speakers I've had up to this point (I've also made the Tritrix MTM ported bookshelf and Overnight Sensation TM). I knew going into it that the Aviatrix were meant to fill enough of the low bass to be acceptable home theater speakers, but even with the transmission line damped to the point I think they may be overdamped: the bass sounds extremely tubby in-room. Enough bass down to 30 Hz or so, but below and they unload quickly.

The speakers, tuned by ear mind you, are on the short side and have their tweeters 26" from the back wall, toed-in pointed at their respective ear at 40" from the nearest side wall.

My listening position in the center of the couch is 12' from the speakers.

Obviously, I have a bunch of hard surfaces surrounding the speakers, save the no-pile carpet floor. I know I need to build some DIY corner bass traps and panels for the walls. So the next posts.

Future plans:
  • DIY Statement II LCR
  • Two Full Marty subs
  • Separate source components
  • 100–120" projector (BenQ W1070 or HT2050 or equivalent)
  • HTPC
  • Paint walls and ceiling grey color in projector area fading into lighter color for band area
  • Remove HVAC ducting
  • Soundproof ceiling and walls, enclose room with sealed hardwood doors
  • Build equipment rack into a wall
  • New lighting in ceiling and along floor somehow
  • Hide hot water pipes for heating

These pictures show from when we moved in to its current state.
I'm really not trying to be a smart a**, but looking at all of your "stuff", when will you have time to sit down and listen to music or watch a movie. I love your cabinet making equipment and your electronics and I hope you will be able to accomplish all that you want to do, but I believe that you are looking at a 5 year project, if not more. I assume you are married, and I saw your dog. (Can I have him/her?) I have several acres in the country and already have 6 dogs and a cat. When my wife's mother died she left us a house with a separate building with 6 dogs and 2 cats. We already have 3 dogs, so we could not live in the city (city ordinance is 3 pets to the household.). Three dogs and the two cats died, then we adopted one more dog that someone dropped off on our dirt road 1 mile in to our home, then we rescued another cat. Anyway, the separate building was used for her mother's sewing and my wife's office (before we were married.)
Now, let me get to the point. I took out a gas heater and the window air conditioner and put it in the well room. I kept the desk and book cases. They are full of my CD's, movies, and Louis Lamoure books. Now I have a room that is 20'x 14'. I had a motel type HVAC unit put in that is very quiet and had an equipment cabinet (H-8' x W-24" x D-24") built for $350 with two glass doors installed, with my Yamaha RX-A3050, RX-A3010 (for Rear Presence), oppo BDP-93, Samsung UHD K8500, and my Dish Satellite player in the top half and vinyl in bottom half. I had most of the speaker wiring in white conduits.
I have an electrician friend help me put it all in and another friend help me get a manual operated screen 9 pull down and my projector in the ceiling.

I had a blast, but it took me a month to get it all done, with a lot of help. Bad news is that my wife does not like to watch movies.

Good luck on your build. Oh yeah, where are you going to put every thing that is in your room. I bought a building, and filled it to the brim.

Thanks for sharing.
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post #4 of 23 Old 02-22-2018, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jdhelaman View Post
I love your cabinet making equipment and your electronics and I hope you will be able to accomplish all that you want to do, but I believe that you are looking at a 5 year project, if not more.
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, I have a lot going on down here in the basement since my home is the jam area, too.

So my man cave is basically split between a studio practice area and my listening area. The good thing is that orienting the HT side length-ways, I have a good 18 feet to the back wall from my listening position in the center of the couch. Rear reflections are not really an issue, but more bass-specific acoustic absorption is needed and I should build some diffusion treatments to mix in as well.

The last few nights the wife and I have done some semi-critical listening down there and it just sounds splendid compared to without the acoustic treatment. I can’t wait to get a mic in it.

We have two dogs, two cats, a horse, and chickens so it’s a full house!

It will probably take about a year or two for me to get the basement exactly how I want it, but I’m sure by then what I want will change ... such is how the hobby goes! I’m excited to get the subwoofer and projector projects underway.

Last edited by bafflesteppe; 10-29-2018 at 07:31 PM.
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post #5 of 23 Old 03-10-2018, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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EDIT 8/12/18: I've realized that I used the wrong configuration file for my UMIK-1 mic. Since I took these measurements with the mic pointing straight down at the main listening position, I should have used the 90° file, not the 0° straight-on config. Oops. I'll be leaving this up until I redo the measurements in another post.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spent the afternoon taking some measurements and it's great to finally see what I'm hearing. If there's any more graphs that would help tell what the room's doing, let me know and I'll do my best to post it up. Spectrograms?

The UMIK-1 microphone was mounted in a mic stand, pointed straight up with windscreen on. Positioned at main listening position exactly.

I did three sweeps in each of the three configurations: all acoustic panels up, no acoustic panels, and corner panels only. For the SPL/frequency response graphs, I averaged the three sweeps for each configuration to try and even out an discrepancies between runs.

My interpretation of the graphs is that my panels have shortened the reverberation time above 100 Hz a bit, and very slightly flattened some response above 100 Hz. Remember, this is all straight out of the source with no EQ: receiver is set to Pure Direct.

Below 100 Hz, all three are practically the same. It sounds much different in-room when no panels are in it: I'm guessing that's the echos being reduced above 100 Hz. I've got a nasty null between 250–300 Hz, and a few bass frequencies (looks like 50 and 90 Hz) that are ringing fairly bad.

I'm going to need much more bass trapping and few more panels for the side and front walls.

Full Range SPL Comparison, 1/24 Smoothing



Bass SPL Comparison, 1/48 Smoothing



Full Range Waterfall, All Panels, 1/24 Smoothing



Full Range Waterfall, Corners Panels Only, 1/24 Smoothing



Full Range Waterfall, No Panels, 1/24 Smoothing



Bass Waterfall, All Panels, 1/48 Smoothing



Bass Waterfall, Corner Panels Only, 1/48 Smoothing



Bass Waterfall, No Panels, 1/48 Smoothing

Last edited by bafflesteppe; 08-12-2018 at 12:23 PM.
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post #6 of 23 Old 03-10-2018, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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EDIT 8/12/18: I've realized that I used the wrong configuration file for my UMIK-1 mic. Since I took these measurements with the mic pointing straight down at the main listening position, I should have used the 90° file, not the 0° straight-on config. Oops. I'll be leaving this up until I redo the measurements in another post.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I added spectrograms for "all panels" and "no panels" to highlight the delta. I didn't reduce the points at 35, 50, and 95 Hz much, but the small bump at 175 Hz was reduced. For everything else above 200 Hz, the red areas look a bit less prominent in general. Whatever that means.

I'm going to start making another round of panels real soon: all four corners with thick bass traps floor to ceiling, cloud panels at the first reflection points, and just more around the room in general. I'll be making them twice as wide this time, so around 32 inches. I also need to put up the french cleat rails.

All Panels, 10–200 Hz


No Panels, 10–200 Hz


All Panels, 20–20k Hz


No Panels, 20–20k Hz


I also want to just post the average for the 10 to 200 bass Hz sweep again, no smoothing. This is my jump point for improvement ... and it looks like my main problem is at 52 Hz, with more bloating at 32 and 95 Hz.


And here's the 20 to 20,000 Hz sweep with 1/24 smoothing. There's a giant null at ~285 Hz:

Last edited by bafflesteppe; 08-12-2018 at 12:24 PM.
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post #7 of 23 Old 03-21-2018, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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So I was a little impulsive and jumped on what I think was a good deal: an Epson 1980WU projector for $400 (305 hours). It seems to be a pretty nice WUXGA data projector that can double as a home theater unit. Because I'm using it as one. It's 1080P (1920x1200) with 4400 lumen and 10000:1 contrast. It looks great to me after using the THX video tuneup app but definitely needs help with the blacks.

I mentioned in the first post that I'm mainly an audio guy, so my screen size and setup will be dictated by L/R speaker position. I'm going to go the DIY route and shoot for 105" using AT Spandex (one layer of matte white over one layer of matte black for help with the dark levels). The center speaker, which will be a Statement II DIY guy, will be mounted somehow behind the screen. I'll have about 25" behind the screen, so the twin Full Martys will be back there, too, somehow.

I'll also be able to fully treat the front wall, which I'm pumped about.

So I've bought the Spandex and black velvet for the border. I'll be purchasing the wood for the screen once I finish deciding how I want to go about it.

The pictures in the following album are taken with the projector 11 feet away from a table cloth stapled to the ceiling. High class. Screen size here is roughly 104" diagonal and the room is pitch black: See Album Here

Last edited by bafflesteppe; 03-21-2018 at 07:52 PM.
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post #8 of 23 Old 08-06-2018, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Bafflesteppe Sound Room

The AT projection screen is about 90% done.

Only thing left to do is the black velvet masking which I’m trying to brainstorm ideas for: something cheap, functional, and adjustable. Both layers of Spandex are stretched over the frame, and the frame is hung from the ceiling using eyelets and hooks.

I ended up building the screen larger than I had initially planned: 120” diagonal at 16:9. It took a bit of stretching of the Spandex, but it was not a problem and the stretch causes no visual artifacts I can see. With the projector as installed, I have a maximum of a 120” screen with the PJ zoomed all the way out: perfect!



The screen weighs probably 30-40 lbs total. I tried to keep it light and used 1x4” prime pine boards for the external framing, and 1x3” prime pine boards for the two internal vertical supports and corner braces. I kept the center of the screen clear for an unobstructed center channel window.





The current state of the basement is semi-deconstructed so I can paint the theater side matte black! I’ve burned through a gallon and have to get another to finish the ceiling, as well as add another coat in some thin spots. Very pleased so far.





These pictures are before the walls were painted black ... you can see the amount of reflection I have with white walls in close proximity to the screen.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by bafflesteppe; 08-07-2018 at 01:21 PM.
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post #9 of 23 Old 08-07-2018, 08:45 AM
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I have read that the walls and ceiling make a more effective theater. Exactly how does it make your theater more effective? How much longer will it take to finish your theater? I read somewhere in your blog that you will only use your theater for movies 10% of the time and much more of the time for music. It seems that you are putting in a lot of work and money for using it for movies 10% of the time. I do like the idea of painting the room black. Did you write that you put a white basecoat on first and then the flat black. What type of white paint did you use? Was it flat white? As for your flat coat, what type of paint did you use? Us there a special consistency for the white and/or black paint? Also, can you give a blow by blow on how you have or will have built your screen? What material do you use? It must be relatively thin to be able to put a speaker behind it and still hear the sound. I bought a screen, and I really like it. It only cost about $200 and is only 100" x 72" and is manually pulled down. My cat loves the string hanging from the screen. I have an Optoma HD-26 1080p 3D projector. I have bitten the bullet and bought the Optoma UHD60 4K UHD 2160p projector to replace the HD-26. I have the Samsung M8500 4K UHD Blu-ray player. It is hooked up and I can play a 4K movie and the sound of ATMOS and DTS-X sounds really great, even though the projector is "only" 1080p. I have over 300 movies, most of them bought before Blu-ray, but they still sound great.

Sorry for rambling.. Keep us informed. :-)
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post #10 of 23 Old 08-07-2018, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Bafflesteppe Sound Room

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhelaman View Post
I have read that the walls and ceiling make a more effective theater. Exactly how does it make your theater more effective?
The flat/matte black paint reduces the reflections from the screen and improves the darkness of blacks on screen compared to the surrounding halo of ambient light if the walls were left white. I think the darkness just makes diving into a movie a bit more immersive since the distraction of light on the walls is negated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhelaman View Post
How much longer will it take to finish your theater? I read somewhere in your blog that you will only use your theater for movies 10% of the time and much more of the time for music. It seems that you are putting in a lot of work and money for using it for movies 10% of the time.
Is it ever truly “finished?” I’m hoping to get another gallon of black paint to finish the ceiling up by the end of this weekend. After that, the priority is getting the acoustic panels hung on the wall and to take more measurements since I used the wrong configuration file for my calibrated mic the last time around—I used the straight on config instead of the correct 90 degree offset.

The basement build is really going to tick along bit by bit as I have some extra money to put towards it. Now that the room is nearly entirely flat black, I need to really think about recessing some LED can lights into the ceiling ... like, many of them. I’m not sure where to start in planning their layout and if I’ll have enough lights to make the room feel inviting again.

That half of the basement is merely for sitting down and enjoying music with the lights on most of the time, but if I’m up late I’ll pop in a movie or watch a show. Since I already have my DIY stereo towers built and everything is sounding fairly grand, I haven’t had to focus much on the “music” aspect recently. The first Full Marty sub build isn’t too far off, though. The acoustic treatments have been the most recent audio upgrade, and I still have to get some posters printed to wrap them with, as well as mount them on their respective homes on the walls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhelaman View Post
Did you write that you put a white basecoat on first and then the flat black. What type of white paint did you use? Was it flat white? As for your flat coat, what type of paint did you use? Us there a special consistency for the white and/or black paint?
This whole build out is just really simple: I posted a picture of the top of the paint can I used. I went up to the guy at the paint counter in Home Depot and said, “Mix me up the most basic can of them flattest black you got,” and that’s what he gave me.

Vacuumed all the walls and corners, cut in everything with a small brush, and rolled the rest on in one thick coat. No other prepping, no primer, no sanding of the old wall surface. Just roll and pray. Turned out really good—nice smooth surfaces with only a couple spots to do a second coat over since the portion of the wall that’s cinderblock had a really smooth coat of paint on it.

The white paint I went over was just basic wall/ceiling white the previous owner put on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhelaman View Post
Also, can you give a blow by blow on how you have or will have built your screen? What material do you use? It must be relatively thin to be able to put a speaker behind it and still hear the sound.
The screen, if you look back a couple posts in the pictures, is just a large rectangular box assembled with the thin edge facing the viewer.

The external box is made from 1x4” prime pine. Cut to length and screwed in with two wood screws per joint: just simple butt joints, nothing fancy.

Then I added two vertical supports made from boards that are not as wide as the external frame: this is so when you stretch the screen material (Spandex, in my case) it doesn’t accidentally hit a portion of those vertical supports and show through as a bump. The vertical supports and corner braces are 1x3” prime pine.

Vertical supports are screwed in place, same as the rest of the screen with simple butt joints, and the corner braces were made on the miter saw.

There is a dedicated subforum here on AVS just for DIY Screens that helped me out a ton (shout out to the resident expert over there, MississippiMan) choosing the right material and colors: I went for a single layer of black over one layer of white ... reasons explained in earlier posts. The Spandex is completely transparent acoustically (AT) since I plan to put my center channel and subwoofers behind the screen.

In terms of finishing the screen, I have the black velvet material and just need to figure out how I want to mask it (make the border around the screen). This should help with my black levels a bunch, too.
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Last edited by bafflesteppe; 08-10-2018 at 08:03 PM.
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post #11 of 23 Old 09-01-2018, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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The screen has been great, and the dark room only improves things. I really need to address the lighting because it's so dark over here now. I was fooling around with SketchUp and made a model of what I'd like the room to end up like.

On the subwoofer front, I've switched from my original plan of two Full Martys with UM18s to two VBSS builds with the PA160-8. Since I'm mostly enjoying music here I figured I'd bias the subwoofer towards a 40 Hz tuning. I can always stuff a port for the 15 Hz tune for home theater use even if they wouldn't be as great as the UM18s there. It'll be much cheaper, which I can't complain about.

For surrounds, I think I've decided on the simple DIYSG Volt-6 or Volt-8, including my two Atmos locations. The center will be the DIYSG 88-Special, I think.

I also ran my room dimensions through the amroc calculator. The room modes from the calculator match up nicely to the measurements I took a while back.

On the immediate front, I'm going to take down the shelving around the "live" side of the room so I can start to treat it acoustically. I'll probably have to paint a bit, too. Not black. Probably some shade of white or light blue.

I play bass in a four piece band and we practice on that side ... most of the gear here goes with us when we play a larger gig. Smaller ones don't call for the full PA stacks. It's fairly loud, boomy, and echoy when we're playing at louder levels so I want to improve that.

As of right now, the plan is to space out 16x48x3" Roxul Safe'n'Sound acoustic panels on the long sides, corner bass traps floor to ceiling in all four corners, and DIY diffusor spaced around the front and rear walls.

Does that sound ... right?
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post #12 of 23 Old 09-06-2018, 02:03 PM
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Hey bafflesteppe, any progress on your build? Hope you are doing well. Was eager to some of the subwoofer builds... Thanks and good luck with your project!

Wanted: M&K Sound S-150P, INWALL S-150
Stereo Integrity HT18 D4 subwoofer drivers
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post #13 of 23 Old 09-06-2018, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starcat View Post
Hey bafflesteppe, any progress on your build? Hope you are doing well. Was eager to some of the subwoofer builds... Thanks and good luck with your project!
Not much progress after getting the room painted. I have a couple of house projects I need to finish before it gets too cold—about 60 ft of fence and some chicken coop work—but I think I can set a few realistic goals to hit before 2019:
  • Mask the screen and make it variably adjustable somehow since I Hulu/Netflix mostly, it's a random mix of formats and sizes.
  • Build a pair of VBSSsssess. What will take the longest is saving for the amp.
  • More acoustic treatments. This includes disassembling the shelves and repairing the walls a bit. Probably some repainting (white).
  • I'd love to finally finish off my Aviatrixes since they've been bare MDF and Purple Heart for years now.

    And that bring me to my current question (see my last post) regarding my model: do the acoustic treatments make sense? Or should I just measure and make it as adjustable as possible with french cleats?
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post #14 of 23 Old 09-07-2018, 11:41 AM
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See here for a very nice 4-way masking system with digital step and very precise Somfy motors which you can get for $100 per motor on ebay

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...fy-motors.html

Wanted: M&K Sound S-150P, INWALL S-150
Stereo Integrity HT18 D4 subwoofer drivers
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post #15 of 23 Old 09-07-2018, 11:42 AM
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Or in case you decide to go for a CIH (Constant Image Hight) and curved screen, this one

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/174-d...masking-4.html

Wanted: M&K Sound S-150P, INWALL S-150
Stereo Integrity HT18 D4 subwoofer drivers
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post #16 of 23 Old 09-07-2018, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Bafflesteppe Sound Room

Wow, those are some fancy options that I’ll probably just admire and drool over. I was thinking something like magnets placed at the different ratios where I could pull and connect the masking to. Something a bit more rudimentary and cost effective. No motors or anything fancy like that. I’d rather take that $500 for a masking system and upgrade my stereo mains or receiver.

Or SUBS.
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post #17 of 23 Old 10-10-2018, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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The VBSS build is underway! Nothing really to take pics of yet as I’ve only glued one side, top, and bottom together. I’m doing a single 1” slot port that’s about 38” long overall, which will give me a tune of 15 Hz in the 6.25 cu ft enclosure.

I got the PA460-8 in today so I’m anxiously staring at that.








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post #18 of 23 Old 10-10-2018, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Here’s where I am today. The panel saw at the store was just a hair out of square and I had a hard time fixing it on my dad’s table saw, so assembly has been more calculated than usual. I have enough clamps, though, which is always a miracle.

I’m adding a little horn bit to the end of the slot port to hopefully reduce any chuffing or other nosies—it isn’t in the assembly drawing. I’m also doing a 1/2” roundover on all the port surfaces. I’ll probably do some exterior edges as well. The enclosure will sit on rubber feet.

I can’t find my Jasper jig at the moment which is pain in the butt. Going to place that order tonight so that’ll hold me up mounting the driver.

I don’t have a proper iNuke for it yet, either. My plan was to use a Crown XTi2000 I use in my band to drive PAs for the time being.








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post #19 of 23 Old 10-17-2018, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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The VBSS build is coming along—I haven’t really worked in the shop for a while, so I was knocking some rust off myself. Some of my joints aren’t flush, but I purposefully set it up so the proud surfaces were “end grain” so I’ll take care of them with a flush trim bit on the router. The 90 deg angle corner clamps helped a ton, especially with the first large panel glue up.

I really just need to get a good table saw built and set up a compound miter saw station so I can make sure the large boards are square.

To do:
1. Route out Speakon connector relief and install. Going with a side mount down low due to how my port is.

2. Cut and install braces.

3. Route driver through hole on baffle.

4. Glue on baffle.

5. Clean up all proud edges with trim router.

6. Roundover all edges, including port. Thinking 1/2” all around externally, maybe 3/4” for the port (if I have one that large).

7. Flat black of some sort after a thick coat of sealer and some sanding for a primer.

8. Mount rubber feet.

9. Wire and install driver. Test!!










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post #20 of 23 Old 10-17-2018, 09:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a bunch done today. I only have two more edges left to round over— I have to wait until after I glue the baffle on since I have to trim an edge. The driver hole has been cut, and I added a 10 mm relief as well. The subwoofer isn’t fully countersunk but it’s as deep as I wanted to go in 3/4” thick material without compromising strength. It looks good. I also made a 45 deg chamfer all the way around the inside of the driver hole for ease of air movement in that area.

Two braces are done and glued in. One vertical, the other horizontal. I want to add two more braces from back to front since they are the largest panels in the enclosure. I’ll install those at the same time I glue the baffle on tomorrow, hopefully.

What screws has everyone used to mount the PA460-8?







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post #21 of 23 Old 10-18-2018, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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The cabinet is ready for finishing. I’m going to paint the exterior with high-build primer and satin black paint. The Speakon leads need to be soldered on, and I need to find suitable hardware to install the driver. I’m thinking T-nuts and 1/4-20 Allen or Torx machine screws with washers? The mounting holes in the PA460-8 frame are rather large.

I’m estimating it weighs about 90 lbs right now. An RCA to XLR cable is on the way to run signal from my old receiver to the pro amp. For testing and initial badassery it’ll be driven by a Crown XTi2000 (475 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms). That’s until I can get me an iNuke 3000dsp. I do plan to build another one to match and use the remaining channel.


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post #22 of 23 Old 10-21-2018, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Bafflesteppe Sound Room

Enclosure is finished! Waiting for the last coat of flat black to dry. Like I earlier, it’s been a while since I’ve thrown around dust in the shop and have definitely been reminded of a few things. Definitely prefer birch ply over MDF simply due to the dust. I need to get a dust cyclone and up my respirator game a bit.

I’m going to wait for everything to dry overnight. Tomorrow night I’ll throw the Speakon connector in, screw on the feet, throw some stuffing in there and mount the driver. For the mounting hardware, I used 1/4-20 hex head socket screws and T-nuts. Ive had better luck in the past using these over the ones that mount in from the front because I can crank down on the screw and not worry about pulling the insert out.

Then I’m just waiting on the RCA to XLR cable, which Fed Ex says should be here by Tues! Very much excite.








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post #23 of 23 Old 10-23-2018, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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The RCA to XLR came in yesterday, so I quickly installed the Speakon connector, stiffed two pillows worth of poly fill inside, and mounted the driver. I couldn’t find the preamp voltage spec for my cheap Pioneer VSX-820 receiver’s subwoofer pre-out, but the Crown XTi2000 found it to be high enough.

I couldn’t really crank it, but let’s just say I’m going to pit aside a weekend morning with the house to myself to track down some household rattles. My lord the rattle. I ran some test tones down to 15 Hz and the output is substantial.

It sounds really good just tipped in to fill that bottom out and my lower-mids / upper-bass sound a bit more clear, probably because the Aviatrix towers don’t have to worry about sub-80 Hz anymore. Those ND140-8’s can only go so far.

Extremely happy and can not wait to build another.

Finished pics whenever I get the motivation to pulled it out from behind he projector screen.


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