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post #1 of 19 Old 03-19-2019, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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New House, New Media Room

Hi All,

I am planning a new media room in a house that is new to me. It will be a dedicated media room , though there are a lot of compromises.

The room is about 14'x17' with 8' ceilings. There is a small 2x5 cutout on one side (photo attached for the floor plan (all furniture will go)). Also, there are windows on two of the walls. Sorry that the details are a little fuzzy right now: we move in next month.

I would like to set up 5.1.4 or 7.1.2 depending on recommendations. I currently have a Denon AVR X4300H and Boston Acoustics A26x2, A25x4, A25 Canter Channel and BA Subwoofer. Will have to buy speakers for Atmos, presumably ceiling speakers, though if the upfiring speakers are better, I welcome recommendations. I will be purchasing a new TV.

It will be used for movies, tv, gaming, watching baseball, and music, in that priority order. Normally it will be just me, though my wife will join from time to time. It would be nice to seat another two as well when guests are in the house.

I am looking for recommendations on setup in general, soundproofing, ceiling speakers, TV size and resolution, and anything else that might me help to plan this out. My guess is that the speakers will be fairly close to the walls, due to the size of the space; mitigation strategies are welcome if this is undesirable.

Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 19 Old 03-22-2019, 12:36 PM
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I can't comment on the sound setup as I still havn't been able to upgrade to an Atmos setup. My next house I definatley plan to! So I'm still rocking old school 7.1. I will say at a 14' wide screen wall (if you had thoughts to put the screen on that wall with the window) you can get away with a 135" screen. That's about the width I use to have in my last room and it fit perfectly with the fronts off to the sides. If in fact you were thinking maybe projection of course. You can do something to cover that window or build a false wall in front of it. In my current small build I'm working on I had a window (much smaller window) to contend with. I just built a "plug" for it out of some black board and weather stripping. I get no light bleed at all. Like there never was a window there. If you planning on TV I personally wouldn't go less than an 80" TV. You can get a nice one these day's for around 3k.

Good luck! It's a nice room to work with and you can do a lot of cools stuff. That celing is crying out for some cool LED effect lighting IMO
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post #3 of 19 Old 03-22-2019, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeruDog View Post
Hi All,

I am planning a new media room in a house that is new to me. It will be a dedicated media room , though there are a lot of compromises.

The room is about 14'x17' with 8' ceilings. There is a small 2x5 cutout on one side (photo attached for the floor plan (all furniture will go)). Also, there are windows on two of the walls. Sorry that the details are a little fuzzy right now: we move in next month.

I would like to set up 5.1.4 or 7.1.2 depending on recommendations. I currently have a Denon AVR X4300H and Boston Acoustics A26x2, A25x4, A25 Canter Channel and BA Subwoofer. Will have to buy speakers for Atmos, presumably ceiling speakers, though if the upfiring speakers are better, I welcome recommendations. I will be purchasing a new TV.

It will be used for movies, tv, gaming, watching baseball, and music, in that priority order. Normally it will be just me, though my wife will join from time to time. It would be nice to seat another two as well when guests are in the house.

I am looking for recommendations on setup in general, soundproofing, ceiling speakers, TV size and resolution, and anything else that might me help to plan this out. My guess is that the speakers will be fairly close to the walls, due to the size of the space; mitigation strategies are welcome if this is undesirable.

Thanks for any help.

I cannot recommend upfiring speakers. They're basically "fake" Atmos. You really do want ceiling speakers. I would definitely choose 5.1.4 of the two choices. You want more object movement than what two overheads can give you. Place the sides a little further back to 100-110 degrees or thereabouts if you won't be adding rear surrounds, though your receiver is capable of a 7.1.4 immersive configuration (even better) if you add a separate stereo amp for the Top Rear speakers (those are fairly inexpensive).



The top contender for relatively inexpensive in-ceiling's with good output with 8 foot ceilings and angled drivers is the RSL C34E from http://www.rslspeakers.com



I would look into a projector and fixed front screen for the best screen size vs cost ratio available... and a real movie theater experience. There are even a few decent 4k DLP projectors now available that won't break the bank and solid fixed screens for not much money. Consider light blocker shades for the windows to kill ambient light into the room.



Sound proofing will require some demolition and room rebuilding/remodeling, and added costs above a normal remodel job (Green Glue or acoustic drywall, double drywall layering, sound dampening insulation, acoustic sealant, sound door, etc.) if you're up to it.



Seating could be a little tight in your room, but there are slim line theater recliners available and even real theater seats if you want to squeeze four seats in one row without jamming an extra back riser into the space. The latter could make things really cramped if not done correctly.
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post #4 of 19 Old 03-22-2019, 11:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gec5741 View Post
I can't comment on the sound setup as I still havn't been able to upgrade to an Atmos setup. My next house I definatley plan to! So I'm still rocking old school 7.1. I will say at a 14' wide screen wall (if you had thoughts to put the screen on that wall with the window) you can get away with a 135" screen. That's about the width I use to have in my last room and it fit perfectly with the fronts off to the sides. If in fact you were thinking maybe projection of course. You can do something to cover that window or build a false wall in front of it. In my current small build I'm working on I had a window (much smaller window) to contend with. I just built a "plug" for it out of some black board and weather stripping. I get no light bleed at all. Like there never was a window there. If you planning on TV I personally wouldn't go less than an 80" TV. You can get a nice one these day's for around 3k.

Good luck! It's a nice room to work with and you can do a lot of cools stuff. That celing is crying out for some cool LED effect lighting IMO
Thanks gek. I will consider projection. I am hanging a couple of ideas below of what I am thinking now. I have also thought about a false wall.
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeruDog View Post
Hi All,

I am planning a new media room in a house that is new to me. It will be a dedicated media room , though there are a lot of compromises.

The room is about 14'x17' with 8' ceilings. There is a small 2x5 cutout on one side (photo attached for the floor plan (all furniture will go)). Also, there are windows on two of the walls. Sorry that the details are a little fuzzy right now: we move in next month.

I would like to set up 5.1.4 or 7.1.2 depending on recommendations. I currently have a Denon AVR X4300H and Boston Acoustics A26x2, A25x4, A25 Canter Channel and BA Subwoofer. Will have to buy speakers for Atmos, presumably ceiling speakers, though if the upfiring speakers are better, I welcome recommendations. I will be purchasing a new TV.

It will be used for movies, tv, gaming, watching baseball, and music, in that priority order. Normally it will be just me, though my wife will join from time to time. It would be nice to seat another two as well when guests are in the house.

I am looking for recommendations on setup in general, soundproofing, ceiling speakers, TV size and resolution, and anything else that might me help to plan this out. My guess is that the speakers will be fairly close to the walls, due to the size of the space; mitigation strategies are welcome if this is undesirable.

Thanks for any help.
Definitely agree with the others that in-ceiling speakers are the only way to go with ATMOS. I can't do in-ceiling speakers and I'm running 7.4.4 ATMOS with up-firing speakers. I've read what you use for your receiver for and for those uses, it's perfectly fine. I used to own the Denon X4300H too and I thought it was amazing on movies but was without a doubt the worst receiver I've ever owned for music listening. I tried everything to improve that and then finally sold it for a loss on money but a smile on my sound at the improved sound from my new receiver.

Your room in that picture looks both beautiful and challenging. If you get reading enough on here, you'll fall into the pits of doing some crazy things. Most people paint their room black just so it is as dark as possible. You really want to put fake walls over windows? That's a shame on such a nice looking room. Yeah I see the windows present a problem, so get some custom made thick darkening blinds. Want to really blow money, get automated motorized blinds. Nice thick darkening blinds is what I'd recommend and that is what I did. For your particular room, and because I think the picture quality is better IMO, I'd recommend a TV over a projector. Do your research. Your 4300 supports Dolby Vision. New Samsung TV's do NOT support Dolby Vision. LG is pushing OLED TV's and they are having burn-in issues. Sony OLED TV's use LG OLED panels in them. ALL OLED TV's use LG OLED panels. Sony OLED's aren't having burn-in issues but their OLED isn't quite as bright. I'd look at other technology. Just do your research before making an expensive purchase. I have a 75" Sony 4K LED and love it. You could get a nice stand like I've put in my picture, but use it to put the TV on where as I've put stereo equipment on mine.

Seeing your equipment list, I really don't think you need a lot of acoustical treatments. I have (4) Powered subs each with 18" drivers. I listened to music and dealt with vibration issues until they were all taken care of. Make SURE you check the outlets to make sure everything is perfect! Good wires, good grounds, no extra wires or wires that aren't up to code. I know you're just purchasing. I can tell it's an old place because of the radiator. I bought a home just a little over a year ago. I'm having a TON of power issues. Inspection company that I paid $375 to never pulled an outlet to see the wires or else they would've known my wiring was rigged. I have TWO Monster Power Surge Centers and about three weeks ago they alerted me that I had both wiring issues and ground issues. The Monster units saved my stereo and TV equipment. I've had a lot of things electrically break in the one year I've been here but I didn't know I had rigged up wiring until my Monster units let me know. I've had to replace the hard start kit in my central air conditioner four times in the last year. My whole house filtration system no longer works. My whole house humidifier no longer works. I have light fixtures that are only a year old that have stopped working. I put new LED bulbs in new fixtures. The bulbs last less than 20 days, not 20 years. Now that I know my house has been rigged, since the seller did not disclose any "problems" and therefore hid all the rigged wiring, we are going to court. Do NOT just trust an inspector. Hire an ELECTRICIAN before you close! Make sure the main thing is good before worrying about stupid things like acoustical treatments and false walls. I've learned the hard way and hopefully can help you before you close on it.

Here is a picture of the front half of my setup. It's now torn down while waiting for electrical work to be done. Like you I have a hardwood floor which is no problem for the sound. I have heat and cooling coming in from floor registers. The two registers vibrate something awful so before turning on my music or movie, I just remove the registers from the floor. But my system sounds very good acoustically and therefore I have no additional plans for acoustical treatments and I think you'll be fine too. Good luck on your purchase.
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post #6 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 03:21 AM - Thread Starter
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[quote=Dan Hitchman;57790482]I cannot recommend upfiring speakers. They're basically "fake" Atmos. You really do want ceiling speakers. I would definitely choose 5.1.4 of the two choices. You want more object movement than what two overheads can give you. Place the sides a little further back to 100-110 degrees or thereabouts if you won't be adding rear surrounds, though your receiver is capable of a 7.1.4 immersive configuration (even better) if you add a separate stereo amp for the Top Rear speakers (those are fairly inexpensive).

Hi Dan. My thought right now is to set up with a good thick rug and curtains, add the ceiling speakers, a couch and a chair and work from there. The end state would be to have built in bookshelves for sound dampening and more of a Craftsman library look. No treatment planned for the ceilings.

Probably will go with a TV over a projector but will look at projectors also.

Thanks for the speaker recommendation, I think those will be contenders when I am looking for something to put up. Im not sure if I have vermiculite (asbestos) in the ceiling as insulation or not. If I do I might look at "on wall" speakers for the ceiling.

Thanks again. Dan
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post #7 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 08:40 AM
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[QUOTE=DeruDog;57791030]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
I cannot recommend upfiring speakers. They're basically "fake" Atmos. You really do want ceiling speakers. I would definitely choose 5.1.4 of the two choices. You want more object movement than what two overheads can give you. Place the sides a little further back to 100-110 degrees or thereabouts if you won't be adding rear surrounds, though your receiver is capable of a 7.1.4 immersive configuration (even better) if you add a separate stereo amp for the Top Rear speakers (those are fairly inexpensive).

Hi Dan. My thought right now is to set up with a good thick rug and curtains, add the ceiling speakers, a couch and a chair and work from there. The end state would be to have built in bookshelves for sound dampening and more of a Craftsman library look. No treatment planned for the ceilings.

Probably will go with a TV over a projector but will look at projectors also.

Thanks for the speaker recommendation, I think those will be contenders when I am looking for something to put up. Im not sure if I have vermiculite (asbestos) in the ceiling as insulation or not. If I do I might look at "on wall" speakers for the ceiling.

Thanks again. Dan
One thing to consider is a flat panel TV for every day, knock-about use and a projector for serious movie and sports watching. Get a tab-tensioned screen that you can drop just in front of the TV.

If you plan on a separate living room with a TV, then I still suggest a projector and fixed screen in the theater room. There really is nothing better than a BIG screen for movie watching. It just depends on your budget as to the projector that is right for you.
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post #8 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tedhontz View Post
Definitely agree with the others that in-ceiling speakers are the only way to go with ATMOS. I can't do in-ceiling speakers and I'm running 7.4.4 ATMOS with up-firing speakers. I've read what you use for your receiver for and for those uses, it's perfectly fine. I used to own the Denon X4300H too and I thought it was amazing on movies but was without a doubt the worst receiver I've ever owned for music listening. I tried everything to improve that and then finally sold it for a loss on money but a smile on my sound at the improved sound from my new receiver.

Your room in that picture looks both beautiful and challenging. If you get reading enough on here, you'll fall into the pits of doing some crazy things. Most people paint their room black just so it is as dark as possible. You really want to put fake walls over windows? That's a shame on such a nice looking room. Yeah I see the windows present a problem, so get some custom made thick darkening blinds. Want to really blow money, get automated motorized blinds. Nice thick darkening blinds is what I'd recommend and that is what I did. For your particular room, and because I think the picture quality is better IMO, I'd recommend a TV over a projector. Do your research. Your 4300 supports Dolby Vision. New Samsung TV's do NOT support Dolby Vision. LG is pushing OLED TV's and they are having burn-in issues. Sony OLED TV's use LG OLED panels in them. ALL OLED TV's use LG OLED panels. Sony OLED's aren't having burn-in issues but their OLED isn't quite as bright. I'd look at other technology. Just do your research before making an expensive purchase. I have a 75" Sony 4K LED and love it. You could get a nice stand like I've put in my picture, but use it to put the TV on where as I've put stereo equipment on mine.

Seeing your equipment list, I really don't think you need a lot of acoustical treatments. I have (4) Powered subs each with 18" drivers. I listened to music and dealt with vibration issues until they were all taken care of. Make SURE you check the outlets to make sure everything is perfect! Good wires, good grounds, no extra wires or wires that aren't up to code. I know you're just purchasing. I can tell it's an old place because of the radiator. I bought a home just a little over a year ago. I'm having a TON of power issues. Inspection company that I paid $375 to never pulled an outlet to see the wires or else they would've known my wiring was rigged. I have TWO Monster Power Surge Centers and about three weeks ago they alerted me that I had both wiring issues and ground issues. The Monster units saved my stereo and TV equipment. I've had a lot of things electrically break in the one year I've been here but I didn't know I had rigged up wiring until my Monster units let me know. I've had to replace the hard start kit in my central air conditioner four times in the last year. My whole house filtration system no longer works. My whole house humidifier no longer works. I have light fixtures that are only a year old that have stopped working. I put new LED bulbs in new fixtures. The bulbs last less than 20 days, not 20 years. Now that I know my house has been rigged, since the seller did not disclose any "problems" and therefore hid all the rigged wiring, we are going to court. Do NOT just trust an inspector. Hire an ELECTRICIAN before you close! Make sure the main thing is good before worrying about stupid things like acoustical treatments and false walls. I've learned the hard way and hopefully can help you before you close on it.

Here is a picture of the front half of my setup. It's now torn down while waiting for electrical work to be done. Like you I have a hardwood floor which is no problem for the sound. I have heat and cooling coming in from floor registers. The two registers vibrate something awful so before turning on my music or movie, I just remove the registers from the floor. But my system sounds very good acoustically and therefore I have no additional plans for acoustical treatments and I think you'll be fine too. Good luck on your purchase.
Thanks Ted. I will look in to the electrical system. We had the inspectors through, and they checked all of the outlets, but not sure on the stability of the system. What would I be asking the electrician to do? Check for over- or under-power?


Thanks for any insight.
Dan
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post #9 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some thoughts on general layout. The only "treatments" I am considering are blackout curtains and/or shutters, and a good thick rug. I am a little concerned that the speakers might be too close to the walls, the surrounds and the ATMOS speakers can be closer than a foot. Does anyone have experience with that and is it a problem?
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post #10 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DeruDog View Post
Here are some thoughts on general layout. The only "treatments" I am considering are blackout curtains and/or shutters, and a good thick rug. I am a little concerned that the speakers might be too close to the walls, the surrounds and the ATMOS speakers can be closer than a foot. Does anyone have experience with that and is it a problem?

I like layout 1 a little better. You can still place rear surrounds behind you as a possibility for that 7.1.4 configuration I mentioned (you have four surrounds - just need a way to power the Top Rear overheads). The more immersive, the better. You could mount the rear wall A25's on adjustable wall brackets.
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post #11 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 09:52 AM
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Dont forget getting the interior room acoustics right. Soundproofing if just you/wife isn't as big in terms of sound getting out - moreso to keep sound from getting in and raising the ambient noise floor in the space.
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post #12 of 19 Old 03-23-2019, 11:46 AM
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Thanks Ted. I will look in to the electrical system. We had the inspectors through, and they checked all of the outlets, but not sure on the stability of the system. What would I be asking the electrician to do? Check for over- or under-power?


Thanks for any insight.
Dan
I paid $375 for a home inspection. They do some things but not enough in my opinion. They focus so much on certain things and completely ignore other areas. The inspector checked to see if we had hot water. YES. But no hot water coming out the bathroom sink. We had a shower/tub faucet handle that was glued on to pass inspection and then fell off in the first week of owning the house. It was stripped and cost me $300 for a new faucet and installation.

Now, I'm sure you saw your inspector plug a cheap $5 outlet tester in the outlets and when the correct lights lit up, he said it's fine right? NO NO NO NO!! If my inspector would've pulled just one outlet out from ANYWHERE in the house, which takes about a minute max, he would see if it's wired clean with good wiring and no problems. Or he will find a mess and notify you of this. Have the inspector also look into the outlet box to determine if there are any unused wires laying in the back.

In my case, there were wires in the back of the outlet boxes not used that still NEED to be used. Then someone ran red colored wire, which shouldn't be in an outlet box, and they used a red wire as a black wire and a different kind of red wire as a ground wire.

My central A/C unit is almost new and it blew the hard start kit 4 times in one year. My whole house filtration system is now fried. My whole house humidifier is now fried. The 5th burner on a 2 year old stove is now fried. I installed all new light fixtures and all new LED bulbs which should last for many years. I've replaced 20 LED bulbs in one year. New light fixtures are either damaged or completely fried and dead. There are other issues that the inspector couldn't have known but we noticed right away. IE: The dishwasher doesn't hold Jet Dry, it leaks it all over the place.

I'm enclosing pictures of what one of my outlets look like. There should be one black wire, one white wire, and one ground wire. The wires should be wrapped around the screws or stabbed into the back of the outlet, but not both. Outlet wires that are stabbed in the back get loose after awhile. It's much better to screw the wires around the screws on the side. Take a look at these pictures. You'll see black wires on the side and then a black wire stabbed into the back of the outlet. You'll see a red wire being used as a black wire and you'll see a different type of red wire being used as a ground, which is not to code. My whole house is like this. So, look at my pictures and then go pull a few outlets, maybe one per room, or at least pull one outlet somewhere. It takes literally no time at all. You can breathe better when this is done. If I were you I'd hire an electrician to test out your circuit breaker box and look out the outlets instead of just plugging a tester in the outlet. The inspector will just look at your electric box and if it "looks" ok, they'll tell you it's ok. Have an electrician TEST it. Here are the pics of what I'm dealing with because I did not hire an electrician and instead relied on my "inspector".
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Dont forget getting the interior room acoustics right. Soundproofing if just you/wife isn't as big in terms of sound getting out - moreso to keep sound from getting in and raising the ambient noise floor in the space.
bpape; my idea right now is to use curtains and a rug for the short term, and then build built-ins around the perimeter of the room. Bookshelves primarily, and I think they will be pretty good sound abatement. Additionally, I might do interior blinds/shutters with a little extra mass to abate sound. I am not sure how much will be getting in but I will evaluate once I move in. Any ideas and comments are most welcome!
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Those items will deal with primarily upper mid and high frequencies. The challenge in a room is getting the bottom end right which will also help with imaging, detail, dialog clarity, etc. Don't overdamp in the mids and highs and leave the bass untreated or you're just skewing the decay times even farther out of whack.

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I cannot recommend upfiring speakers. They're basically "fake" Atmos. You really do want ceiling speakers. I would definitely choose 5.1.4 of the two choices. You want more object movement than what two overheads can give you. Place the sides a little further back to 100-110 degrees or thereabouts if you won't be adding rear surrounds, though your receiver is capable of a 7.1.4 immersive configuration (even better) if you add a separate stereo amp for the Top Rear speakers (those are fairly inexpensive).
Since I've owned the Denon X4300H before, I can comment on this. I've always used an external amplifier for my front main speakers. The power of any receiver is just not enough to do them justice. One of the nice things about the Denon is that since I wasn't using my front main internal amps, I was allowed to reassign them to do an 11.2 channel amp setup 7.4.4. Then I got a Sony ES receiver which also advertised 11.2 also with adding an external amp. But on the Sony ES that I have, the external amp has to be plugged into HEIGHT 2. That meant I still needed my external big front amp for my front mains and the front internal amp could NOT be reassigned. I bought a used external amp off of eBay. It's called a NILES two channel external amp. It was $100. It's a very good amp for powering smaller speakers such as ATMOS speakers. So, I agree with Dan Hitchman, pay an extra $100 for a NILES external amp and then you'll be able to do a true ATMOS 7.1.4 setup. Also, I recommend the speakers that he linked to you. My home is a Parade of Homes Showcase house. It was built in 1968 and has some unique features. The ceiling has blown sparkles on it. It's very unusual to find a house that still has blown sparkles on the ceiling. I plan to sell the home in about 6 or 7 years so I don't want to cut up the ceiling. Next house I'll probably do ceiling ATMOS speakers because yes, they really are the only way to go.
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Last edited by tedhontz; 03-26-2019 at 11:50 PM.
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post #16 of 19 Old 04-01-2019, 02:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedhontz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
I cannot recommend upfiring speakers. They're basically "fake" Atmos. You really do want ceiling speakers. I would definitely choose 5.1.4 of the two choices. You want more object movement than what two overheads can give you. Place the sides a little further back to 100-110 degrees or thereabouts if you won't be adding rear surrounds, though your receiver is capable of a 7.1.4 immersive configuration (even better) if you add a separate stereo amp for the Top Rear speakers (those are fairly inexpensive).
Since I've owned the Denon X4300H before, I can comment on this. I've always used an external amplifier for my front main speakers. The power of any receiver is just not enough to do them justice. One of the nice things about the Denon is that since I wasn't using my front main internal amps, I was allowed to reassign them to do an 11.2 channel amp setup 7.4.4. Then I got a Sony ES receiver which also advertised 11.2 also with adding an external amp. But on the Sony ES that I have, the external amp has to be plugged into HEIGHT 2. That meant I still needed my external big front amp for my front mains and the front internal amp could NOT be reassigned. I bought a used external amp off of eBay. It's called a NILES two channel external amp. It was $100. It's a very good amp for powering smaller speakers such as ATMOS speakers. So, I agree with Dan Hitchman, pay an extra $100 for a NILES external amp and then you'll be able to do a true ATMOS 7.1.4 setup. Also, I recommend the speakers that he linked to you. My home is a Parade of Homes Showcase house. It was built in 1968 and has some unique features. The ceiling has blown sparkles on it. It's very unusual to find a house that still has blown sparkles on the ceiling. I plan to sell the home in about 6 or 7 years so I don't want to cut up the ceiling. Next house I'll probably do ceiling ATMOS speakers because yes, they really are the only way to go.
Thanks Ted.
Understanding that I could use NILES for my surrounds or ATMOS do you have any recommendations for an amplifier for my front mains? Since I will get another amp anyhow, maybe I should just upgrade the power to the front speakers.
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post #17 of 19 Old 04-01-2019, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeruDog View Post
Thanks Ted.
Understanding that I could use NILES for my surrounds or ATMOS do you have any recommendations for an amplifier for my front mains? Since I will get another amp anyhow, maybe I should just upgrade the power to the front speakers.

Your Boston Acoustics bookshelves won't handle a lot more amp power, according to their specs. My suggestion, since they no longer make the A series, is to upgrade your front three speakers and use the remaining bookshelves as surrounds for the time being. Then sell the BA's off and get matching surround or bookshelf speakers from the same line you choose for the front. If you choose (wisely IMHO) to go with an acoustic screen, you can then pick three of the same vertical speakers for LCR.


Do that before you spend money on more expensive and more powerful amplifiers.

There are a few speakers to choose from that will get the job done and won't be budget busters.
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post #18 of 19 Old 04-01-2019, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Hitchman View Post
Your Boston Acoustics bookshelves won't handle a lot more amp power, according to their specs. My suggestion, since they no longer make the A series, is to upgrade your front three speakers and use the remaining bookshelves as surrounds for the time being. Then sell the BA's off and get matching surround or bookshelf speakers from the same line you choose for the front. If you choose (wisely IMHO) to go with an acoustic screen, you can then pick three of the same vertical speakers for LCR.


Do that before you spend money on more expensive and more powerful amplifiers.

There are a few speakers to choose from that will get the job done and won't be budget busters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeruDog View Post
Thanks Ted.
Understanding that I could use NILES for my surrounds or ATMOS do you have any recommendations for an amplifier for my front mains? Since I will get another amp anyhow, maybe I should just upgrade the power to the front speakers.

@DeruDog . I agree mainly with @Dan Hitchman . Your Boston Acoustic speakers aren't power hungry speakers. And while my speakers are even more efficient, they are also much larger and benefit from an external amp tremendously. I think you'll be fine to use the Denon internal amps for your front mains. This is all a hobby and you can start spending money at a fast rate. Talking about external amps and then new speakers and it gets worse from there. IF you ever do want to get an external amp, get an ADCOM GFA-555. This amp was made back in 1985 if I remember correctly. Some Adcom products are junk but this particular amp is amazing. I have two of them and another in my closet in case one goes out. It was designed by Nelson Pass. Nelson Pass, after making the Adcom amp, went and started making his own amps. He has an amp almost identical to the GFA-555 and Adcom sued over this. A Nelson Pass amp runs about $20,000. You can get a good Adcom GFA-555 for $450-550 on eBay. It's an amazing amp. Mine has never clipped off or even distorted. Another great thing about it that many people comment on is that if you hook it to a Denon receiver, it sounds like a Denon amp. If you hook it to a Yamaha receiver it sounds like a Yamaha amp. Unlike many amps, it doesn't try to remake the sound, it just makes it more powerful and louder. ADCOM recently revived this amp after decades of demand and now it is called a GFA-555se. I do not know if it is as good as the original though and it's $1300 plus tax and shipping.

But for now I WOULD recommend getting a NILES external amp so you can have the extra ATMOS speakers but I WOULD NOT recommend anything else unless you like throwing your money away.
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Update on the design. I have calculated 1st reflection points for all speakers on all walls and the ceiling. A photo is attached. With 7.1.4 Atmos it is a bit of a mess but doable. Clearly I will have to figure out something for the side window, and currently I am thinking 2" thick acoustic shutters. The attached photo includes built-in Bass traps in the corners with the front face at 2' wide. Not sure how quicly I will decide to build them in, but it seems like it will not be as offensive looking as I thought it might be at first. I'll also include a design for a craftsman bass trap I have thought up. Let me know your thoughts!
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