Desert DIY aka "2 Bedrooms = Theater" - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 66 Old 08-30-2019, 03:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Desert DIY aka "2 Bedrooms = Theater"

Hello, I'm just getting started on my theater build and figured I'd like to document it to gain some focus on direction. I definitely welcome any comments and ideas anyone may have.

Little History - In my last house I built a theater in a very undesirable location. A living room between a kitchen and office with large openings in the walls to both those, stairs behind me, and tile floors. It became such a great hangout spot though and we really enjoyed having friends over for movies, game night, and even some late night drunk dancing games where the girls would take over the room. Anyhow, I still have the equipment from that 7.1 setup so I'm not starting off empty handed.

I just purchased my new home about a year ago and promptly gutted the entire house. I am just now getting my head above the water ( kitchen is done, bathrooms are done, office is done, etc etc) and I now have some time to get to a theater : D Other than the carpet, these 2 bedrooms have been sitting untouched for about 10 months.


The house is a 1 story 3 br home with an office at the front that could be and has been in the past another bedroom. Btw that office has a million dollar view of the Vegas valley and strip! People are paying millions for homes being built higher up on the mountain for this. Hopefully they will make my property value go up! It is just the two of us in the house and my better half said to go for it if I can turn the other 2 bedrooms into a theater. After climbing up all around through the hatch in the garage and an access above the guest bath I deduced that the wall was certainly not load bearing. It has scissor trusses, which was a good indicator initially that it wasnt.

Ok, enough rambling. Here are some pics.







Below I am going to attempt to track some costs etc. Its already going above what I had anticipated of course.

FREE - Insulation from wall repurposed for riser.

$103 Monoprice 250' 12 gauge CL2 wire
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_...0aAlyWEALw_wcB


$130 Narrow High Pub Table Mr IRONSTONE Bar Table 47" Pub Dining Height Table Bistro Table with Vintage Textured Top (Indoor USE ONLY) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3H4P1D..._FGhVDbQ00Q5D3

$9 cover for fan hole. Looks meh.. Leviton 1228 15 Amp 125 Volt, Duplex Receptacle, with 4" Metal Cover, Residential Grade, Grounding, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NAQ3..._0-2WDbKMG2T0H

$32 total X2 50ft. Subwoofer cables Mediabridge Ultra Series Subwoofer Cable (50 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black - (Part# CJ50-6BR-G1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003P63SP0..._Z72WDbYD1KRPG

$5 cable labels Tuyounger 180Pcs Self Adhesive Cable Labels Waterproof Assorted Color Tear Resistant 6 Sheet Label Stickers for Office Work School Computer Cord Laser Printer (180PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC7NSLK..._-92WDbDAANEE2

$756 r-112sw Klipsch subwoofer X2 (with tax and shipping)Klipsch Reference R-112SW Subwoofer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NVPMJNC..._JO0XDbKPMX1JC

$1290 uh what to do with another subwoofer...? 2X RP-8000F deal with a SPL-120

$540 (2 pair) R-141SA for atmos

$260 (1 pair) R-141SA open box for rears

$504 (1 pair)RP-250s surround speakers

$399 RP-450C center channel

$4,936 Fusion Jives. 2 rows of 4 seats. (2 loveseats). No buttkicker yet, but interested.

$899 Denon AVR-X4500h from Accessories for Less. Refurbished with 3 year warranty.

$340 Silver ticket 135" Cinewhite Screen 16:9
STR-169135 Silver Ticket 4K Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGW15NU...p_mob_ap_share

$1663 Carpet and install from Home Depot.

$250 labor materials for drywall guy
$147 Home Depot Riser wood/hardware
$195 Lowes Riser wood/hardware
$14 2 more boxes of 3" screws
$20 More osb etc for riser
$10 more insulation for stairs.
$145 Paint and supplies
$231 fabric mate channels in black

$270 for blackout double cell blinds. The double cell will help with insulating as well.
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post #2 of 66 Old 08-30-2019, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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The wall is down now!

The rooms are almost a mirror image with closets in the corners. The ceiling is 8' high at one end and goes up to 10' at the other.

I think that the screen would be best on the larger wall at the high end and I was thinking I should cut out the closet on that end. The beauty of this closet is that it does not go all the way to the ceiling so the repairs wont be as in depth.

The room dimensions are 20' 5" long X 13' 3" wide without the closet.

I'm thinking the closet at the back will house the electronics and maybe a concession/snack stand.

I need to get a digital sketch layout going.



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post #3 of 66 Old 08-30-2019, 04:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Focus focus! Haha

Goals/Wants/ maybe-

- 7.2.2/4? Atmos ready (ceiling speakers eventually)
- 120"+ fixed Screen
- 4k projector eventually
- Speakers.... not sure yet
- Riser for back row seats and bar behind that
- fiber optic ceiling panels...

My current equipment, which other than using the projector for awhile, its all probably better off being replaced with higher end purpose made speakers and an atmos receiver.

Receiver - Sony STR DN1040
Main Speakers - 2 X Yamaha NS-777
Center Channel - Yamaha NS-C4440
Surround / Rears - 4 X Bose 161
Projector - Epson Powerlite 3010
Screen - 110" Motorized Ceiling/wall mount

I dont have a set budget, but around 5gs (yeah right) should get me somewhere I'd like to be I think since it will all be on equipment with me doing all the labor.

Well, hopefully I can get some of that focus I'm looking for and get my goals set into a step by step timeline.

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post #4 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 12:23 AM
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Super interested to see how this goes. I'm looking at possibly buying a 3 bedroom house that has a nearly identical layout for the two extra bedrooms as yours, and I was thinking of knocking down the dividing wall.

Are you planning on going for an AT screen?
Is there enough length in the room for the 3 rows of seats?

I noticed the wall you took down had a diagonal brace. Do you know why? I wonder if the wall was used for shear stiffness if not for vertical load bearing.
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post #5 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bochoss View Post
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I noticed the wall you took down had a diagonal brace. Do you know why? I wonder if the wall was used for shear stiffness if not for vertical load bearing.
I'm guessing it was to stabilize the wall when they stood it up becuase of its height but that's just a guess

My Theater Build - Full Circle Cinema

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post #6 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 06:51 AM
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That angled brace is likely a shear brace, and likely was there to stiffen that wall against wind loads.

What's on the other side of those entry doors? Will you be removing a door?

Personally, I'd pull both closets and host the screen at the end that had the closet going to the ceiling. That would be
the better layout in regards to the audio performance of the room.
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post #7 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 09:54 AM
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I'm guessing it was to stabilize the wall when they stood it up becuase of its height but that's just a guess
Yeah that's what I was thinking too. Probably not to add shear stiffness to the house itself. But I could be wrong.
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post #8 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
Personally, I'd pull both closets and host the screen at the end that had the closet going to the ceiling. That would be
the better layout in regards to the audio performance of the room.
Agree. Have the tall ceiling where the viewers/listeners are.

That extra height will be especially nice because of the riser needed for the back rows.
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post #9 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bochoss View Post
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Super interested to see how this goes. I'm looking at possibly buying a 3 bedroom house that has a nearly identical layout for the two extra bedrooms as yours, and I was thinking of knocking down the dividing wall.

Are you planning on going for an AT screen?
Is there enough length in the room for the 3 rows of seats?

I noticed the wall you took down had a diagonal brace. Do you know why? I wonder if the wall was used for shear stiffness if not for vertical load bearing.



Hey bochoss,


An AT isn't out of the question. With the closet gone and the height of the ceiling I think the screen would be up enough to put a center under it and wide enough to still fit speakers on the sides if I wanted. I'd like to do about a 130. I'm pretty sure my motorized screen I still have measured at 110" so it is probably a 120".



Your question about fitting 3 rows of seats reminds me to try and get to a sketch layout today. I'd like a high narrow bar behind the back row of seats so that will add a little bit of space. So, bar in the back, then row of seats (those on a riser), then another row of seats in front of those, and then in front of that is going to be people on the floor. We had a super thick shag rug at the last place and many times when we had alot of people they tended to like sitting on the floor with blankets and pillows and gaze up at the huge screen in front of them like kids. I have found something awesome recently just for that "row" of floor dwellers making it into kind of an opposite of a riser, a "lowered row" if you will haha. Check these out! They are very comfy also. I tested it out when I was there and it made me feel like a kid again. The tag on them said Sealy, so if they are made by a mattress company then it's no wonder that they were pretty comfy. https://www.rcwilley.com/Furniture/Living-Room/Chairs/Miscellaneous/111495989/Slate-Gray-Folding-Theater-Lounger-Chair-and-Fold-Out-Bed---Sutton-View

Not bad eh? They look good in person and won't detract from any expensive theater room decor.

So I guess by counting these and the bar I'm going for 4 rows..... I haven't done my layout yet though. I also have a couple 3/4 size modded arcade games that currently reside in my office and maybe one could make its way in there.



Glad you asked about the wall and that brace. I really dug into the internet and contacted a couple friends with some construction cred about it. That diagonal brace is called a "let in" brace. It is for squaring up the outer wall etc when in construction. There are diagonal braces used for shear loads so for instance when the wind blows hard on the side of your house. We have some high winds here in the Vegas area so I was concerned a bit. A box could just collapse without some shear bracing if pushed on hard enough from the side and I surely didn't want to do anything harmful to my home.
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post #10 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 11:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post
That angled brace is likely a shear brace, and likely was there to stiffen that wall against wind loads.

What's on the other side of those entry doors? Will you be removing a door?

Personally, I'd pull both closets and host the screen at the end that had the closet going to the ceiling. That would be
the better layout in regards to the audio performance of the room.



I definitely need to do something with the overkill door situation LOL. Here is a layout of what is around the room, which along with my reply to bochoss above will answer why I decided that "let in" brace had no function other than in beginning construction. The 4 walls of the bedroom are as follows. The back wall (where back row would be) has the garage on the other side and is definitely load bearing, the front wall (screen side) has the master BR/Bath on the other side, the right side (door side) is the hallway and has load bearing supports, and the left side where the windows are is the outer wall of the house and is definitely load bearing. The majority of homes built now (mine was built in 2001) use scissor trusses and these have the loads going to the exterior of them. Knowing all of these things and even seeing the trusses go across above the wall, I still climbed up and scurried across above the wall pulling up the insulation to make sure that the trusses weren't supported in any way anywhere along the wall. This of course is my house and everyone's is different. I believe that my house is built like this so that they could easily change the bedroom number or layouts for new home buyers when these were constructed without having to make any structural support changes.



So.. regarding the door and back closet. This is where things get a little dicey, at least for me. I think I should keep the door that is closer to the back of the room functional so that is a given. Obviously I was good with the fact that if I sell this house in 10 years I may have to make a concession with a buyer to throw that middle wall back up if they are breeders or don't care about movies and having an amazing place for friends and/or family to watch games etc. I'm good with getting rid of the front closet because I know that other than a small bit of drywall and relocating a switch panel (since the closet walls don't go to the ceiling) it isn't a lot of work.



Logic sways me pretty easily and I agree that the audio would be better at the back if that closet were removed, but it would be a lot more work since it's walls run all the way to the ceiling. Then where would the equipment go? If the equipment needs to go somewhere I figured it could go in there along with some blanket storage, snacks, etc, otherwise the equipment would just be in a rack sitting in the corner. I don't have a place outside the room to house it. It may not be the perfect setup for the equipment, but I don't want to remove it and add a lot of additional work if I'm still going to put something there. I also suck at drywall so I will need to pay someone to come in and clean up where the closet walls were.



Dividing wall- Here is the plan. I left the top and the outer 2x4s in there just in case that wall ever needs to be thrown backup and also because of the way I'm going to repair/cover that area they won't matter. I have a friend that constructed some faux beams in his house and it gave me the idea that those would be perfect to "cap" right over where the wall was. Like I said, I don't like drywall and the faux beams can be attached right to those 2x4s that are left. They could be removed later and a wall could be thrown back up in short order. I may have said to hell with some resale somewhat, but I'm still keeping it in my thoughts so I guess I still have a mental barrier about it somewhat. Still having a closet allows the room to more easily become another Master BR perhaps with nothing but some carpet changed out maybe.... haha I just haven't gone ALL IN yet I guess haha.
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post #11 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Focus.... So regarding that other door.... again. If the wall were to ever be put back up then obviously an entryway into that area would be necessary again and one easily produced even better. I have seen some door replacement bookcases or similar. I guess they are usually used to create a secret door look. Anyone have experience with those or have any other ideas? Basically if it doesn't look like a door anymore from the inside/outside and I can make it acoustically tight then I'm game for ideas.
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post #12 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the trusses going across above the theater room. My light is held up right in line with where the wall is. Even though the trusses surely look like the just span across the wall and dont connect down on top of it for any load I still crawled up in there and double checked under the insulation.

Also, here is a pic at the beginning stages of my old setup. At the end I had painted the screen case to match the walls, added pull down blackout shades in the wall openings, painted the baseboards, and added a large dark shag rug to fill the entire floor in front of the screen. It was prewired for 7.1 thankfully.

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post #13 of 66 Old 08-31-2019, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick thrown together layout..... I will of course need to go through and check distances from surround speakers etc, but I'd like to have a decent amount of seating. I'm showing the back closet wall and rear door still there along with lines for about where I think the riser should go. This is about as detailed as this sketch layout would let me go, but it is to scale at least from what it said when I put in the room dims. The front 4 chairs are to represent those loungers I linked to above.



My kitchen island is 4' wide and can easily accommodate two large bar stools so this 8' bar in the back should be able to fit 4 there easily. These people aren't seated for the best audio and definitely won't get it, but I still need to deal with them not ruining the rear surrounds for the rest of the viewers. I'd guess it's ok to mount the speakers above them aiming down. That may be a sacrifice I'm willing to make.
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post #14 of 66 Old 09-26-2019, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally had some time to finish the front closet removal. I still have yet to patch the drywall and move the switches to the wall. This thing was pretty heavy duty for just a closet, but I guess they figured people might put stuff on top of it. It had a 4x6 in it for christ's sake.

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post #15 of 66 Old 10-17-2019, 04:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Removed ceiling fan. Mounted Projector. Hooked up power. Plugged in Firestick. Watched Bronco Billy.

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post #16 of 66 Old 10-24-2019, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Just took the CC out and ordered 2 rows of 4 seats from Roman at Fusion. I ordered the Jives with a loveseat in the middle. They will work perfectly in the middle with a width of 109" giving about 20" of a path around each side. The back row is going to have an overflow seat shoved against the wall and it will be a tighter fit leaving about 18" or a little more on the one side depending if I don't break it down to a 3 seat sofa with an extra on the end saving me the 6" armrest width.




Next is to clean up the electrical and prepare to build the riser. I have to sort out the steps onto the riser so you can get onto it in front of the seats and then also step up in the back to go behind the bar tables.
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Here's the plan currently

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post #18 of 66 Old 10-24-2019, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
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Here's the plan currently

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What software are you using? I need to start using this for my work in progress.

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post #19 of 66 Old 10-24-2019, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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What software are you using? I need to start using this for my work in progress.



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This last one was using an app called Magic plan. It's free to download and I didn't pay for it yet since I'm just trying it out so I had to snap a pic of that layout with my ladies phone. It wouldn't let me do a screen shot.


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post #20 of 66 Old 10-29-2019, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
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SCREEN HAS ARRIVED and is sitting in the box! After setting up my projector I see that I can do about a 120" wide (135" diagonal). Since I can upgrade later and it isn't much to pay now I decided to go with the Silver Ticket 135" screen. It is 123" wide, which is right where I need it to be. This allows me to have the front left and right speakers fit on the sides in the corners. An AT screen would be good, but I really want the screen as close to the wall as possible so on it is the best and it gives me more flexibility for the audio speakers I will purchase. My old yamaha surround speaker setup in my living room we have grown accustom to having now so the lady and I agreed to buy an entire new setup for the theater. BTW- Don't buy an OLED. After buying a C9 Oled for the living room everything else looks like crap in comparison. I will really have to get the black levels looking good in the theater. At least the oled is only a 65" and my theater will be double that so it has that going for it.



Looking over painting options now.



Next is Paint and carpet. (I'll build the riser once I get a row of seats in there to really see what I'm working with.



1. Black Paint Color/Brand? I've read about Tricorn Black and some Benjamin Moore flat, but also have now heard of a Ralph Lauren suede recently.

2. Carpet???? I'd like to do some theater style carpet, BUT it seems kinda expensive and would require me to install whereas I could get some good dark carpet locally including installation. I'd guess I'd probably still have to install the carpet on the riser or maybe the guys would charge me extra to do it for me. Anyone have any insight into that?



I of course am going to paint the screen wall black. What I need to decide is how far back to bring the black on the ceiling and/or walls. I was thinking of bringing the ceiling black all the way to the room midpoint where the wall was since there will be a fake beam I'm building to cover the header of the wall that was left behind. I'll need to read some more and look at pics to decide on the walls. I can't recall really seeing too many walls that are black. I'm probably going to go with a dark gray for the rest of the theater that isn't black. The dark gray will go along with a couple accent walls in the house that are gray plus I have large gray tile throughout the house.
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post #21 of 66 Old 10-29-2019, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I found a round cover with a shallow outlet in it, but it still leaves a bit of a gap around the edges since I didnt remove the fan mount cup inside there. From what I've seen youd have to tear up some of the drywall to pull it out so I'll add a spacer or cover to this later and it should look fine once painted.

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post #22 of 66 Old 10-29-2019, 02:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Took out the light switch that was going to projector (fan power) and connected the wires with a wire nut. Anything to save me from paying an electrician to do it.

I may still need to pull wire from the back of this switch into the closet where the equipment will be. There is no outlet inside the closet, but there is one nearby that I could cover up the cord with the riser and stair though.


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post #23 of 66 Old 11-01-2019, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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A few things purchased so far. I am going to track some costs as I go and add them to the first post hopefully.

- Narrow pub table. There were several lengths to choose from and this one was 47 1/4" because I believe that two that length will fit just about right, but I only ordered one to check it out first.

- Silver ticket 135" projector screen. This is how it comes and I'll be keeping it boxed up until I get the front part of the room painted and ready for it. I debated and researched a 2.35:1 screen, but in the end I was happy with the masking (velvet over foam board) I had made before for my 110" 16:9 so I decided to go 16:9 again.

- A 250' spool of 14 gauge speaker wire CL2 rated for in wall use. I'm not sure how much in wall excitement it's going to get, but I may be running it behind some baseboards.

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post #24 of 66 Old 11-02-2019, 07:51 AM
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a real cost total. i am looking forward to that number.

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post #25 of 66 Old 11-06-2019, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Added some expenses above.

Picked up parts for the riser and started putting it together.



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post #26 of 66 Old 11-07-2019, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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In progress. Working on the notch step.

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post #27 of 66 Old 11-07-2019, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone know what I'm doing? I dont. Hahahaha

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post #28 of 66 Old 11-07-2019, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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This wood has been terrible. I cant believe what they charge for this crap nowadays. I went to home depot and lowes and the 2x10s were the same at both. Splits galore and dimensions arent even the same when you check widths unbelievably.



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post #29 of 66 Old 11-08-2019, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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I planned on a (10') 120 "X 110" riser. Since the longer section was 10' I was able to just get boards that didnt need to be cut and I could have the others cut at the store.

I wanted about a 12" riser. I maybe should have gone a bit higher, but we shall see.

With a 12" height in mind and no moisture problem I was able to just put down roofing felt and use 2X12X10s for all of the base.

2 at 10' on the outside and then 7 in the middle cut to 107" to fit between the outer ones and give me a width of 110".

Almost a plug and play setup except that this wood is all ****e and the guy at lowes who did the 107" cuts managed to cut them at a slight angle somehow. In the end they still worked, but it was frustrating to have it done to save you the hassle and the simple act of cutting a 12" board across on a machine made for that simple process is screwed up. Anyhow, if it was done correctly this would have been a very very easy assembly....BUT

One thing to keep in mind is your floor being level. Check it first. The reason is that if you do like me and put all the beams on the ground (I used ALL 12" pieces) then you may have a problem if the slab/floor is humped. This problem is alleviated if you use end hangers (u boats) and smaller lumber. You may save a few bucks that way also, but I can tell you that my riser is as solid as the titanic at port. I hung one beam because the floor had a raised area and that is the only area where I hear noise from creaking when I walked across the beams before the osb was put on so I expect that youd have less chance of creaking if you have all of your base touching the ground.

Now my only concern is that if I add the other layer of osb (most peeps recommend 2 or 3) I will have to move the outlets up : (

I havent ever done this, but I dont think it will be too bad. I also decided to not run any power through the riser since I have outlets all around the room and it will save me a lot of headaches to just make some clean hidden runs for the seat power etc. I'm also leaving a lip around the riser so I can run an wires I need to around under it.

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post #30 of 66 Old 11-09-2019, 05:18 AM
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dumb question

I know this is probably all over the forum.... What is the reason for putting insulation in the riser?

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