Mounting TV on Horizontal studs between vertical studs - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 15 Old 01-11-2020, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Mounting TV on Horizontal studs between vertical studs

Just finishing a new wall in my basement. All of the wall mounts I am looking at will not span 3 studs (I have a single stud dead center of the wall).

So I thought to install a piece of 2x4 horizontally between the vertical studs and used deck screws to attach them to the vertical stud (2 per side). I'm going to pull those out 'cuz I'm slightly shifting the tv placement down on my wall and will use a Kreg now to fasten the horizontal pieces to the vertical studs.

Is this a safe way to mount a tv?

Should I double up the horizontal pieces, in other words, place them back-to-back so that they're double the thickness of a 2x4?

Appreciate any suggestions or help.
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post #2 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 01:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Lot of views no comments, yet. Maybe I was unclear. I'm thinking of using 2x4 blockers between the 2x4s much like would be installed for cabinets. Maybe 2x6 would be a better.

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post #3 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 01:30 AM
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Is the wall open right now? Or are you surface mounting your 2x4s?

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post #4 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 01:34 AM
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In any case, you'll want to add your backer across the top and bottom of the future mount.

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post #5 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 06:43 AM
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Yes, using blocking like this is an acceptable way to mount. Cabinet installers routinely do this for example. For that purpose 2x6 is the minimum and most use 2x8 or larger. 2x4 may be ok for this lighter load but you may want to go larger to be safe. The added cost is minimal.


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post #6 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Darren Chan View Post
Is the wall open right now? Or are you surface mounting your 2x4s?
The back of the wall is currently unfinished and I have access to all of the stud bays.
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post #7 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by The Huntsman View Post
Yes, using blocking like this is an acceptable way to mount. Cabinet installers routinely do this for example. For that purpose 2x6 is the minimum and most use 2x8 or larger. 2x4 may be ok for this lighter load but you may want to go larger to be safe. The added cost is minimal.

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I've got the 2x4s cut already to the right size....is the 2x6 recommended because it will be less likely to twitch or more resistant to twisting once the tv is mounted?
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post #8 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JMak00 View Post

I've got the 2x4s cut already to the right size....is the 2x6 recommended because it will be less likely to twitch or more resistant to twisting once the tv is mounted?
Structurally speaking, 2x4's are fine as long as they are secured well to the studs. The reason for using larger dimension lumber is to allow for more height adjustment for your mount.

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post #9 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Structurally speaking, 2x4's are fine as long as they are secured well to the studs. The reason for using larger dimension lumber is to allow for more height adjustment for your mount.
Oh, well that's good to know.

I have the 2x4s screwed in using 3" deck screws, 2 per side.

Since I have to shift their location now, I thought about using my new Kreg to screw them in that way. Do you think the screws that come with the Kreg kits is sufficient or should I be getting different screws? Also, is 2 per side enough?
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post #10 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JMak00 View Post

Oh, well that's good to know.

I have the 2x4s screwed in using 3" deck screws, 2 per side.

Since I have to shift their location now, I thought about using my new Kreg to screw them in that way. Do you think the screws that come with the Kreg kits is sufficient or should I be getting different screws? Also, is 2 per side enough?
You don't need to use the Kreg. You are framing, not finishing...and all will be hidden behind drywall. 2 screws on either side is sufficient. I'd stay with the 3" deck screws and screw through the stud into your brace . If you want to overkill it, toe-nail a 3rd screw in the middle of your brace back into the stud. Hell, if you really want to go overboard, add some construction adhesive to the mix...but honestly, 2 screws on either side will suffice.

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post #11 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 12:20 PM - Thread Starter
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You don't need to use the Kreg. You are framing, not finishing...and all will be hidden behind drywall. 2 screws on either side is sufficient. I'd stay with the 3" deck screws and screw through the stud into your brace . If you want to overkill it, toe-nail a 3rd screw in the middle of your brace back into the stud. Hell, if you really want to go overboard, add some construction adhesive to the mix...but honestly, 2 screws on either side will suffice.
Thanks...I was thinking about using the Kreg because my first go-round using deck screws I had to or thought I had to stagger the blocking. Meaning that on the shared stud between two backer boards, I staggered them height wise to be able to screw from the stud and into the backer board.

I think what I am saying is that once I install one backer, I can screw from that side into the backer on other side of the shared stud. I thought the Kreg would help, but that means screwing into the stud rather than through it.
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post #12 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 12:28 PM
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You can screw through the stud even from the shared stud. Just go from an angle from above/below. The Kreg just predrills for you to toenail. You can still toenail if you want without the Kreg. Just won't be as pretty and may split the face of your blocking (won't affect structure).

When drywalling, put some drywall screws into your blocking and it will help lock it all together.
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Darren Chan View Post
You can screw through the stud even from the shared stud. Just go from an angle from above/below. The Kreg just predrills for you to toenail. You can still toenail if you want without the Kreg. Just won't be as pretty and may split the face of your blocking (won't affect structure).

When drywalling, put some drywall screws into your blocking and it will help lock it all together.
So okay, structurally, to screw the blocker into the stud or should I be focused on screwing through the stud into the backer?
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 01:00 PM
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Whenever possible, screw through the stud and into the block with your 3 inch deck screws.

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post #15 of 15 Old 01-12-2020, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Whenever possible, screw through the stud and into the block with your 3 inch deck screws.
Ok, thanks. The far side of each block will definitely get the screw through the stud and into the block. One of the blocks will get the through the stud-into the stud screws, but one of the blocks will get toe-nailed.

Now that I have my template on the wall, I have a stud dead-center on my wall mount plate, but there's no hole dead-center on the plate and the steel is too thick to make one. So my mount and tv will be 100% on the blocking.
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