The Quasar Array (8) LMS 5400 in (4) Dual Opposed Sealed Cabinets - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 440 Old 10-10-2009, 11:28 AM
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"Anodised Aluminum might work, but not sure how I would have something like that made. "

Not sure about cost or minimum qty, but they do what's called roll ring forging of aluminum to create thick walled cylinders, from which you could slice the rings.

We had some done from which we machined telescope tubes.

Probably cheaper to just have it laser cut from plate; some ebay vendors do that.

If it was me I'd have them anodized a bronze color.

Noah
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post #62 of 440 Old 10-10-2009, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manic1! View Post

Might want to look at the new Peavey ampsthat are coming out. 6000 watts rms for $599 they also have ones with DSP. They only weigh 7 pounds. I can't wait for some one to test these.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/IPR6000/

Does not mention specs for bridged mono.

One consideration would be (8) amps like this or from QSC Audio or wherever... I'm just saying...

I'm going to have to think of scenerios with:

2 amps (like the PLS 14000 at 7000W x 2)
4 amps ?
and 8 amps, like mentioned.
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post #63 of 440 Old 10-10-2009, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

"Anodised Aluminum might work, but not sure how I would have something like that made. "

Not sure about cost or minimum qty, but they do what's called roll ring forging of aluminum to create thick walled cylinders, from which you could slice the rings.

We had some done from which we machined telescope tubes.

Probably cheaper to just have it laser cut from plate; some ebay vendors do that.

If it was me I'd have them anodized a bronze color.

I'll have to revisit this when the time comes...
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post #64 of 440 Old 10-10-2009, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

We are making the cuts today and tomorrow. I'll be taking some pictures. We are doing test runs on the CNC machine. We are making the binding post holes perfectly CNC machined so that it includes all of the detail of the inserts: the inserts will be completely flush and even have the notch and all the detail cut out ...

I decided to recess the driver so that it is a total of 0.875" recessed, instead of 0.7"

Cool, I think that is the right way to go, and even just using the rubber gasket that comes with the driver looks really nice too if you choose that route... just color the allen heads with a black sharpie or paint them - they look just fine.
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post #65 of 440 Old 10-10-2009, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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By the way, I was going to use my camcorder to take come pictures of the CNC in action... Can I shoot in 1920 x 1080 mode or do I ahve to shoot at lower resolution to post? What about you tube resolution?
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post #66 of 440 Old 10-11-2009, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some more pictures of the Black Hole Subs being powered by Bryston 7BST monoblocks. The Black Hole Subs are very efficient.
LL
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post #67 of 440 Old 10-11-2009, 12:40 PM
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Love the weapon collection!

Verum postulo res.
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post #68 of 440 Old 10-11-2009, 06:46 PM
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Great project!

You will not be dissapointed with the LMS!

I wish I could be there to feel it when that beast come to life!

______________________________________________
Joe = LFE Addict
Past Builds: 24" LMS-5400 cube, Anarchy 25Hz Tapped Horn, Danley DTS-10 kit, BFM AutoTuba, BFM THT, BFM THT-LP
Joe's LOWARHORN build, Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build
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post #69 of 440 Old 10-11-2009, 07:55 PM
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Your Black Hole Subs look a hell of a lot like Scott's beasts!


Nice weapon collection!

dbldare

Let's all go to the lobby
....Let's all go to the lobby
........Let's all go to the lobby
............To get ourselves a treat!
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post #70 of 440 Old 10-11-2009, 08:56 PM
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The weapon collection is great but if you had a hockey mask on it would be really scary
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post #71 of 440 Old 10-12-2009, 08:06 PM
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Would just love to see 3rd party testing on that Marathon. Definite "sleeper" potential given the $ and impressive internals (not that I really know what I'm looking at).

Allan
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post #72 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 12:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Some of the cutting has been done. The cutting of the driver cuttouts will be done later this week, along with the binding post cutouts. I took some shots with my camcorder in HD, but not sure if I can post it anywhere...
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post #73 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 12:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are a few more:
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post #74 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 07:22 AM
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Gah! Router jealousy. That is a lot of wood. You said that your current drivers are Aura's but they don't have the accordian surround like 1808/8196's and the cones don't look like the the NS/MR's? Which ones are they and do you have any more pics of those?

Nice falchion BTW. Functional replica? What else you got? Sorry I like weapons and have a few myself.
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post #75 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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The Black Hole Subs use the Seismic 8196 drivers with a honeycomb Kevlar cone. On the receipt, it says 8196 HK. I need to put an ad in for the Black Hole Subs since I am moving Nov 11th into a slightly bigger house that is not attached like my current townhouse. I have to line up an electrician also. Lots to do today. I will probably make an Audiogon Auction for the Black Hole Subs vs a regular Classified add with B.O., any thoughts? They parts, materials, and labor cost about $8,000 when they were made (but of course that is just the 'manufacturing' cost). The bottom line is that I am going to take the highest reasonable offer. I really should have made trim rings for them. The cabinets do have some dings and scratches, but could be made to look brand new with some refinishing. Put in a trim ring and that would be amazing for looks. The ports are 10" custom plywood cylinders.

As far as the Falchion and other stuff, there is quite a bit more. That falchion was custom made by Christian Fletcher and Ollin. A lot of my swords are from Albion as well. Arms and Armor makes some nice custom items also. The Custom Falchion, the famousTHORPE FALCHION turned out amazing and we got high resolution photos from the museum curator in England (which nobody had pictures of in books, not even close to the detail we got). If you want to take a look at that thread for that one piece, look here: http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=13370
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post #76 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

Some of the cutting has been done. The cutting of the driver cuttouts will be done later this week, along with the binding post cutouts. I took some shots with my camcorder in HD, but not sure if I can post it anywhere...


Very nice!
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post #77 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 05:35 PM
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Have you looked into crown's Itech series? I think that may be the way to go... Extremely efficient power and full DSP all in one unit! 9,000 honest watts from one amp!

http://www.crownaudio.com/amp_htm/itechhd.htm
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post #78 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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The only concern I have with Crown is their use of 8 Hz, non bypassable subharmonic filters... I like QSC Audio because they use only 5 Hz filters...
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post #79 of 440 Old 10-15-2009, 08:21 PM
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If you have the chance, could you find out what make and model that cnc router is? And possibly the cost of that unit?

I'm tossing around the idea of buying one but still debating which brand. There isn't much info on how dependable the "cheaper" brands are. So any first hand accounts would be helpful if you have the opportunity to ask.

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post #80 of 440 Old 10-17-2009, 01:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I will try to find out. I'm hoping he will work on the cuts tomorrow so I can head over.

On a good note, I put a security deposit down on a new house. The new theater room size is about 28' x 18' x 9'. I am getting an electrician to install dedicated lines as usual in every rental home I get... I'm thinking I will most likely Stack the Quasar Array subs into two pair for the sake of ease until I am able to build a home or such... Accordingly, should I have (2) 220 lines put in? So do you have (2) different dedicated 220 lines going to each sub location? What is a 220 line circuit breaker, 30A? How should I deal with 220 lines? Or should I not bother with 220 lines? I finally put the ad in at Audiogon for the Black Hole Subwoofers.
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post #81 of 440 Old 10-17-2009, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

Your Black Hole Subs look a hell of a lot like Scott's beasts!


Nice weapon collection!

dbldare

Hey, yeah! They do like my beasts. Good times.
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post #82 of 440 Old 10-23-2009, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I got the key to the new house today and had an electrician come over, recommended from a friend. I was going to get a couple more bids, but once he said $700.00, I stopped right there. $700.00 to put in (2) 30A 220V lines and (2) dedicated 110V lines as well... That should do it I guess.

Most likely I'm going to get (4) 220 amps, or possibly (2) 220 amps. I'm assuming that if I only have one receptacle per 220 line, I could use an adapter for (2) amps an outlet correct? Or do I need to have some sort of double gang box or such for a 220 line? The only receptacles I ever see have just one outlet.
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post #83 of 440 Old 10-23-2009, 09:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Another question regarding 'take your best shot' and live with it subwoofer positioning. I have no choice but to stack these subs in the current place and use them as two point sources ( or possibly one if all stacked side-by side). I really can't play with subwoofer positioning, although I suppose with extension cords, I could.


Assuming I am going to stack two of them, the height will be 43 + 43 = 86" tall. I have a choice of:

1) Left and right: adjacent to the to edge of the 11.5' wide screen, spaced approximately 12' apart.

2) Left and right: towards the corners, spaced approximately 18' apart, one stack in each front corner.

3) All in the left or all in the right corner (2) stacks of (2) side by side.


It is possible I can have the 4 subs independently positioned, but I doubt it. I think that is most likely going to have to wait until I can build a custom room/house some day. I think it is best to treat this situation as if I have two point sources... and I believe the above are my only real choices.

P.S. Subs will be crossed in the 50-60 Hz range...
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post #84 of 440 Old 10-23-2009, 10:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm also waiting to hear back from Lab Gruppen and just sent them an email:

One thought was to use (1) FP+ 14000 and (1) PLM 14000. Can you pass the processed signal of the FP+ 14000 to a PLM 14000? This could allow us to take advantage of the Dolby Lake processing without having to purchase (2) FP+14000 units. Otherwise we are thinking that (2) PLM 14000 would be more affordable. We would be using 220V lines. Accordingly we were going to run (2) 30A, 220V lines. The appeal of the FP+ 14000 was to have Dolby Lake processing capabilities, but I think 2 would exceed our budget. Also, could you tell me at what frequency, if any, are subharmonic filters placed (i.e, 5 Hz, 8 Hz, or ??), or can they be made to be DC coupled? Can I use these amps to weld? (Just kidding about the last question)
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post #85 of 440 Old 10-24-2009, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I was hoping to discuss useful topics, like those I listed above.

We already discussed, ad nauseum, the design goals several months ago. I've been doing this for 20 years. Why you would bring this up now makes no sense to me. Start with half a build? Maybe you haven't noticed but the build is essentially finished, so your post makes no sense. This design wasn't built for reproducing down to 15 Hz, the design goal was as flat as possible down to 5 Hz with negligible distortion @ ___ dB in a room size of approximately 10,000-14,000 cubic feet. Also, you don't build two of these subs and come back a year or two later and build two more. These subs are built to last a long time with the highest quality level obtainable via sealed subs. That last octave is a bitch and there is no reason to even have this debate. What would be helpful, however, is to discuss some of the questions I posed above.

Nobody has a problem seeing what the TRW fan subwoofer can do.... however, when you try to build something from multiple sealed subs to try and get close to what a TRW can do in the lowest ocataves, even close, it takes drivers and power. I'm really not interested in having more discussion on that particular subject, however, I am interested to debate about the positioning of these 4 subwoofers as described above.

Hopefully in 1.5-2 years I will be able to independently position them in a 28' x 38' x 12' new construction room... that is the ultimate plan.

For now, in the temporary, current 28 x 18 x 9' room (non sealed and open to other room on one end) the question comes down to:

Assuming I am going to stack two of them, the height will be 43 + 43 = 86" tall. I have a choice of:

1) Left and right: adjacent to the to edge of the 11.5' wide screen, spaced approximately 12' apart.

2) Left and right: towards the corners, spaced approximately 18' apart, one stack in each front corner.

3) All in the left or all in the right corner (2) stacks of (2) side by side.


It is possible I can have the 4 subs independently positioned, but I doubt it. I think that is most likely going to have to wait until I can build a custom room/house some day. I think it is best to treat this situation as if I have two point sources... and I believe the above are my only real choices.

P.S. Subs will be crossed in the 50-60 Hz range...
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post #86 of 440 Old 10-25-2009, 08:33 AM
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Option #1, being away from the corners might not give you the room gain you want (need).

Option #3, the in room frequency response is not going to be as good as the other two options.

Option #2, that's the one I would go with. You will get the room gain by corner placement and a better frequency response since the subs are separated from each other.

In the end, your room measurements and testing will decide if #2 is best.
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post #87 of 440 Old 10-25-2009, 11:19 AM
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Not sure how well it would work with such large boxes, but you could try the reciprocity method.

That's where instead of moving the subs around, you put one at the listening position and listen to what the bass is like at the candidate sub locations.

"being away from the corners might not give you the room gain you want (need)."

It's a continuing point of confusion for me if corner placement helps bass in the pressure region, which by definition means everywhere in the room is effectively near (much less than a wavelength) a room boundary.

I'd think with 5 Hz as the goal it's definitely true, so I'd go for placement that gives smoothest midbass.

Chris, have you checked out the Harman white paper on sub placement?

Noah
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post #88 of 440 Old 10-25-2009, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm going to be FINSHED assembling the boxes today... They look AWESOME. INDESTRUCTABLE.... wow. Will be posting pictures tonight. Decided to cover entire sureface with stone... Called in for one more slab. David Finde (owner of SF Wood Turning and I had a good talk about the options. At this point it makes sense just to do the complete cabinet in stone. Hopefully they can add another 1/2" slab on the order without a delay...

Noah, will have wood for you available starting tonight... He's going to cut the
remaining 4' x 8' piece...

STEELERS RRRRRRRR!! YESSS!!!!

Went with the good ole TITEBOND.... and screws. Dado cuts really helped...
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post #89 of 440 Old 10-25-2009, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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The 1.575" (4 cm) Baltic Birch cabinets are done... Now I need the LMS 5400 drivers and the 1/2" CAESER STONE.

The entire box will now be covered in Caeser Stone, it just makes sense at this point.
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post #90 of 440 Old 10-25-2009, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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More pictures:
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