The Quasar Array (8) LMS 5400 in (4) Dual Opposed Sealed Cabinets - Page 5 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #121 of 440 Old 10-27-2009, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Obsess on the details, I do. What else is there...
Health Nut is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #122 of 440 Old 10-27-2009, 06:51 PM
Member
 
gbegland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 130
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Some big boxes there.

You probably will want to stuff the box anyway. More so to insure there isn't too much tendency for higher frequencies to resonate/reflect in that rigid enclosure than for effective volume changes. It's a PITA to cut, but the recycled cotton bats are a nice absorber for that sort of thing. Note they don't compress much and are much more dense than fiberglass, so you don't need to get crazy with it, but done on the side walls or top/bottom would probably be a worthwhile effort and certainly won't hurt anything in the performance.

I have to agree with Mark here. The recycled demin stuff from Bonded Logic is great but a REAL PITA to cut. I tried every cutting implement that I could find, from a fresh box cutter to fancy shears and all. The factory says good scissors work, but I call shenanigans on them. I finally decided to risk some fingers and try the table saw....yeah bad idea, I know. I compressed the batting with a board on either side of the cut line and went for it. Cut clean and didn't snag on the blade at all. Maybe I was lucky, but it worked like a charm! Not sure I'd do it again but I was deperate and my hand was tired.

Greg
LL
LL
gbegland is offline  
post #123 of 440 Old 10-27-2009, 07:14 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Warpdrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 19
That is where a carpet cutter comes in handy....
I am lucky to have such a tool... and they aint cheap...

Warpdrv is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #124 of 440 Old 10-27-2009, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I don't need the hassle... Unless someone tells me there is a material better for absorbing 200 - 1000 Hz, I'm going to use a combination of the foam previous linked and some acousta stuff... why not...
Health Nut is offline  
post #125 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Does anyone feel strongly about Spade vs Banana connectors? I know that the old government study suggested spade connections to be superior, but who knows what kind of cheap bananna connectors they may have used. The reason I am asking is that I am covering the rear section with stone (with the binding posts) and I'm going to have to clear out a big rectangle around the binding posts if spade connections are to be used. If banana, then I don't have to worry about the 0.5" stone geting too close to the binding post. With the spade connection, I have to leave enough space around the binding post to allow the spade connector and wire to fit (given that I was not planning on covering the back with a 0.5" laminate).
Health Nut is offline  
post #126 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 10:54 AM
Senior Member
 
tlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 405
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Neutrik SpeakOn!
tlag is offline  
post #127 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This build uses binding posts, so I'd appreciate the reply as to spades vs banannas. As listed earlier in this build thread, the binding posts are Cardas CCGR Long http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...ardas_ccgr.htm

Also, Given that all of these amp choices are going to have some loud fans, I am probably going to have to keep them in the closet adjacent to the theater room. The speaker wire run may be 25 feet if I do that... is this acceptable, and if so, what gauge wire is recommended? Does anybody sell 8 gauge zip cord? I know there is power cord, but speaker wire conveniently has +/- dual wires... I could just use 8 gauge power cord though....
Health Nut is offline  
post #128 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 11:19 AM
Senior Member
 
tlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 405
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Oops; missed that binding posts were already inhouse. Reading comprehension? Huh?

Spade connectors, then. Definitely.

Or how about best of both worlds: spade connectors into bananas...
tlag is offline  
post #129 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 12:31 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bossobass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,575
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Liked: 690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

This build uses binding posts, so I'd appreciate the reply as to spades vs banannas. As listed earlier in this build thread, the binding posts are Cardas CCGR Long http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...ardas_ccgr.htm

Also, Given that all of these amp choices are going to have some loud fans, I am probably going to have to keep them in the closet adjacent to the theater room. The speaker wire run may be 25 feet if I do that... is this acceptable, and if so, what gauge wire is recommended? Does anybody sell 8 gauge zip cord? I know there is power cord, but speaker wire conveniently has +/- dual wires... I could just use 8 gauge power cord though....

Over the years I've used both. I've changed subs and combinations of subs very often and here's my input, FWIW:

1) No matter how tight you screw the spades on, they never seem to actually be tight, or they seem to come loose over time.

2) The banana plugs are in or they're out. They don't require worrying about the torque required to screw spades or bare wire down and have never failed me. You can reverse polarity in 1 second and you can disconnect and reconnect just as fast.

Banana plugs are my choice, hands down.

BTW... awesome project. I'll be following the progress.

Bosso
bossobass is offline  
post #130 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thank-you very much. I look forward seeing them covered in the black quartz. I could defintely, most DEFINTELY use your help in doing trim rings.

I guess my concern is that there was a governement study done some time ago that looked into various connector qualities. Apparently Spade came out as the best performer and bananna the least. I do not know the study or have access to it... I could google and try to find it... I'm not sure how or why they reached that conclusion. For all I know they used crappy bananna connectors. Do you think that the contact surface is smaller for a bananna compared to a spade? If you look at what actually makes contact, I think it is only a small part around the rim where it enters the female hole. Does it matter that I'm going to be pushing 4000W? I'm up for either option, I'm just trying to make an informed decision.

The other question remains also: What gauge of speaker wire to use since I am going to be running 25-30 feet of speaker wire to put the amps in another room or in a closet so the fan noise wont be an issue. I was thinking 8 gauge zip/speaker wire, but have only seen 10 gauge. I don't see why I shouldn't use 8 gauge. I could use 8 guage power cord as speaker wire I suppose, but it is nice to have the +/- side by side...

thoughts?

If I were to use bananna:

http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...tech_fp202.htm

If I were to use spade:

http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...mpire_hds1.htm

or

http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...das_ccmsr1.htm
Health Nut is offline  
post #131 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 03:36 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
noah katz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA USA
Posts: 22,867
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1987 Post(s)
Liked: 721
"If I were to use bananna:"

I thought you had them already.

If you don't, get Speakon, which are designed for high power, and I believe have positive retention devices; I've had banana plugs come loose many times.

If you do have fancy banana plugs, sell them, buy Speakons, and you'll likely pocket some $.

Noah
noah katz is offline  
post #132 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The picture I showed earlier was the internal 8 gauge wire and the 8 pairs of Cardas binding posts (sitting on my desk). As shown in the pictures, the binding post holes were cut out in detail to fit the Cardas CCGR Long binding posts and the red/black nylon insulator http://soniccraft.com/products/conne...ardas_ccgr.htm


There are pictures of the Black Hole Subs in this thread which use 8 gauge speaker wire and angled WBT banana connectors.

I did not purchase the external speaker wire and the connectors yet, so that is what I was talking about. I need 25-30 foot runs if I am to put the amps in the closet/different room... I also need terminations that work with the Cardas binding posts.

The WBT posts and WBT angled banas maintain a VERY TIGHT lock, they are great in that regard. I had to get pliers today just to loosen the connectors. I like Bosso's suggestion because the very good Banana connetcors will tighten and stay tightened, however, I am concerned with the small amount of contact surface area of banana connectors (vs spades). As I mentioned, there was a government study that talked about various connector types and banana connections ranked last, with spades ranked first. Again, I do not know the quality of the study or what quality of the connectors used in the study... Banana connections are certainly the easiest to use. I would chose Banana if I knew the contact quality/connection quality was otherwise equal to a spade connection. Just looking for more input... and also more input of where I can get 8 gauge speaker wire/zip cord, so that I don't have to use 8 gauge power cord for speaker wire....
Health Nut is offline  
post #133 of 440 Old 10-28-2009, 05:30 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Warpdrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Search out Car Audio Supplier arena's.... some of the wire they use is ridiculous IMO and totally overkill... but its out there...
Warpdrv is offline  
post #134 of 440 Old 10-29-2009, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I know I should probably just use 10 gauge speaker wire, its just that if 8 was available, why not. With amplifiers having to be in a closet becasue of noise, the runs are going to have to be 25-30 feet. Not a problem with 10 gauge, its just that if 8 was available, I don't see a problem using 8 gauge either.

I've been doing some Googling regarding banana connection vs spade and not anything factual coming up... I had no problem using banana with the BH subs becasue they are amazingly efficient and so easy to power... I guess the thought of running up to 4000W/driver just makes me think about these things more than usual.
Health Nut is offline  
post #135 of 440 Old 10-29-2009, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by spanish68 View Post

Option #1, being away from the corners might not give you the room gain you want (need).

Option #3, the in room frequency response is not going to be as good as the other two options.

Option #2, that's the one I would go with. You will get the room gain by corner placement and a better frequency response since the subs are separated from each other.

In the end, your room measurements and testing will decide if #2 is best.

After review of the JBL/Harman research, the absolute worst response was with two subs in each front corner. The best response was obtained with 2 subwoofers placed at the mid portions of opposing walls. The next best responses were obtained with 4 subwoofers at each of the 4 midpoints of the walls. Finally, 4 subwoofers in all 4 corners was also very good.
Health Nut is offline  
post #136 of 440 Old 10-29-2009, 02:02 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Not sure how well it would work with such large boxes, but you could try the reciprocity method.

That's where instead of moving the subs around, you put one at the listening position and listen to what the bass is like at the candidate sub locations.

"being away from the corners might not give you the room gain you want (need)."

It's a continuing point of confusion for me if corner placement helps bass in the pressure region, which by definition means everywhere in the room is effectively near (much less than a wavelength) a room boundary.

I'd think with 5 Hz as the goal it's definitely true, so I'd go for placement that gives smoothest midbass.

Chris, have you checked out the Harman white paper on sub placement?

CONCLUSIONS:

One subwoofer at each wall midpoint is the best in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min but does not support low frequencies particularly well. Two subwoofers, at opposing wall midpoints, performs very nearly as well as four at the midpoints and gives a much better LF factor. One subwoofer in each corner also has good low frequency support, but does not perform quite as well as one subwoofer at each wall midpoint, in terms of Std, Max-ave and Max-min. If cost and aesthetics are considered, subwoofers at 2 wall midpoints is preferred.

The absolutely WORST result was two subwoofers in the front corners.

I can attest to this because I did NOT like the positioning of the Black Hole subwoofers in the front corners. Now that I am armed with more info, I will try for another solution. I may try to have 4 subs, one in each corner, but that may not be practical. Also, I ws thinking of stacking (2) subs and puting them at the mid-points of the two side walls. The problem is that is not usually practical either since I have DVD racks and other items that go along the side walls... hmmmm... at least now I know what I have to do....
Health Nut is offline  
post #137 of 440 Old 10-29-2009, 05:44 PM
Advanced Member
 
spanish68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 659
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 16
For me, a corner placement was the best solution, it gave me a flat frequency response from 16hz-100hz (within 6db's), but each room is different, as you found out with my suggestion of option #2.

I believe your looking for 5hz extension, a tough proposition in that big room you got. Are you also looking for a "flat" frequency response to 5hz? How are you going to get it? Boosting the low end is only going to give you a few db's.
If you can manage that four corner placement for the subs, it might be your solution for the best in room bass response. Like I said before, room measurements will help you decide what's best for you.
spanish68 is offline  
post #138 of 440 Old 10-29-2009, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I agree you have to take each room as different, however, that study was good for educated guessing. The goal was as flat as possible to 5 Hz. The way to do it was going to be either a custom XLR Marchand Bassis with an additional ocatave of boost which would boost 12 dB/octave .... essentially 40-20, 20-10, 10-5 So I would just boost from 40-5 Hz with that custom Marchand unit. I'll take whatever SPL level follows... The reason to have (4) of these subwoofers, was not only for options in flat room response/positioning, it was for headroom to push down to 5 Hz. Using 3 octaves of boost with a Marchand Bassis is going to make me keeo the overall gain levels down. I simply traded headroom for extension to 5 Hz, which is exactly why this setup is not overkill. Again, the goal of this design was: 1) to eliminate the need for a TRW fan subwoofer (get 'close enough' that I don't have to consider one. 2) Flexibilty with 4 subwoofers for placement and even room response (something I can't get with IB).

How well adding 36 dB with a custom XLR Marchand Bassis wil work, I have no idea... I could also get a Dolby Lake processor in the future, or possible a Rane 17 for that matter if needed....
Health Nut is offline  
post #139 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I did go ahead today and order the custom Marchand Bassis. He's putting XLR connectors, which is good since I'm going to have to use about 25 foot run of XLR cable: either from the Meridian 861 XLR to the Bassis, or, from the Bassis to the Amplifier XLRs. I told him the most I would use would be 3 octaves of gain, and we were debating on whether to have 3 or 4 octave capability. He said 40 dB would make for a good display on the front panel since it is going to be a custom front panel anyway.
Health Nut is offline  
post #140 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm actually starting to get scared thinking of how difficult it is going to be installing the drivers due to the cabinet weight... definately going to be a chore.
Health Nut is offline  
post #141 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 10:27 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,502
Mentioned: 167 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 389 Post(s)
Liked: 910
Yeah. Be careful. Those 80lb'ers are finger pinchers.
Ricci is online now  
post #142 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So are ____ lbs cabinets:

Let's see:
160 lbs for (2) drivers
approx 250 lb baltic birch portion
another 250? for the 1/2 inch stone? Hmmm... I better start thininking of custom dollies.

More like finger amputating...
Health Nut is offline  
post #143 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 07:27 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Warpdrv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 19
You can easily install the drivers - Michael Hurd and I had no trouble installing them in a vertical fashion, just place the bottom lip onto the bottom of the mounting hole, and put the top screw in, it just sucks itself right in, then put the bottom screw in, the rest is cake...

The only problem we ran into was that my internal wires were too short, designed for the single coil Mal-X, so they were very tight when they had to straddle both sides of the magnet, making them too short... but we got them to work.

So make sure you have enough wire coming out of the box itself, you shouldn't have a problem. I will eventually have to revisit that issue. I'll get it when I veneer the boxes.
Warpdrv is offline  
post #144 of 440 Old 10-30-2009, 08:35 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bossobass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,575
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Liked: 690
Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

I did go ahead today and order the custom Marchand Bassis. He's putting XLR connectors, which is good since I'm going to have to use about 25 foot run of XLR cable: either from the Meridian 861 XLR to the Bassis, or, from the Bassis to the Amplifier XLRs. I told him the most I would use would be 3 octaves of gain, and we were debating on whether to have 3 or 4 octave capability. He said 40 dB would make for a good display on the front panel since it is going to be a custom front panel anyway.

Am I reading this right? 40dB of boost? .39W=3200W.

My guess is that you'll use no more than 12dB of boost (200W=3200W). Attempting anechoic flat any lower will result in exceeding X-max and clipping amps with the big box + big boost + big power approach.

The stock 24dB boost (12.5W=3200W) is already way more than you'll be able to use, except at low listening levels.

F3 in the low teens with a wide knee (12dB boost) corresponds to room gain kicking in with a maximum room dimension of 50 feet, which will get you flat to the bottom of your amp.

I've done these experiments a go-zillion times, so... I'm just sayin', FWIW.

Also, the last Bassis i had custom built had no bypass switch on it, so you might want to make sure Phil puts one on yours because it's a must in the tweaking stages, IMO.

Bosso
bossobass is offline  
post #145 of 440 Old 10-31-2009, 02:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the advice....

Well, I don't have to use all the gain, bt it will be there for fun.... The bypass switch sounds like a good idea... I'll run it by Phil... Thanks again for the input!
Health Nut is offline  
post #146 of 440 Old 10-31-2009, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thank-you Bosso!

Quote:


We can put the bypass switch on; no problem. It will be $25 for that; I'll just add it to the charge. I worked out the controls for the boost settings. Instead of a pot I will put on a 24 position switch. It will have 2dB/step increments from 0 dB to 44dB boost. This will be much better than the potentiometer control; both in terms of easier to use and sound quality. I will also use the 24 step switches for the frequency setting. For the other controls I will use the 12 position switches.

Health Nut is offline  
post #147 of 440 Old 10-31-2009, 11:46 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

You can easily install the drivers - Michael Hurd and I had no trouble installing them in a vertical fashion, just place the bottom lip onto the bottom of the mounting hole, and put the top screw in, it just sucks itself right in, then put the bottom screw in, the rest is cake...

The only problem we ran into was that my internal wires were too short, designed for the single coil Mal-X, so they were very tight when they had to straddle both sides of the magnet, making them too short... but we got them to work.

So make sure you have enough wire coming out of the box itself, you shouldn't have a problem. I will eventually have to revisit that issue. I'll get it when I veneer the boxes.

Sounds good. I think I learned that lesson before, but may have forgotten. I've been so happy with the Black Hole subs, I haven't had to build anything but car subs for a while. Which reminds me I have a set of Dual Aura NRS 15's in a 1" Baltic birch sealed cabinet sitting unused for the past 3 years... I never ended up putting in a sound system in my new Toyota Sequoia... I had an M3 which I put a system in and somebody T-boned me 7 weeks after I bought it... GEICO totally ripped me off, totally, so I lost my taste for car audio for a while. I hate GEICO with a passion. I made the mistake of trying to save money on car insurance and it cost me $7,000.00
Health Nut is offline  
post #148 of 440 Old 10-31-2009, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Health Nut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: U.S.A
Posts: 5,149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hmmm... this looks useful for an appliance mover, really cool actually:

http://www.installertools.com/cgi-bi...talogno=17-600
Health Nut is offline  
post #149 of 440 Old 11-01-2009, 10:35 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,217
Mentioned: 860 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2953 Post(s)
Liked: 3685
"somebody T-boned me 7 weeks after I bought it... GEICO totally ripped me off"

shouldn't the other guy's insurance have paid for your loss?

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
post #150 of 440 Old 11-01-2009, 11:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Erich H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 7,384
Mentioned: 308 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1875 Post(s)
Liked: 2691
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"somebody T-boned me 7 weeks after I bought it... GEICO totally ripped me off"

shouldn't the other guy's insurance have paid for your loss?


Not saying this was the case at all, but if someone runs a stop sign, or something like that, they can get T-boned and it would be there fault.

Obviously, I have no idea in this situation, just saying it is possible.

_______________________
The SEOS Waveguide Project
Erich H is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off