Danley DTS-10 "Super Spud" DIY kit - Page 345 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10321 of 10351 Old 06-02-2018, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post
ok now I think I get you - I didn't notice the Alpines are dual voice coil. So it sounds like the Alpines are wired in series each particular standalone driver
Yep, got it. Can see in the one pic I posted where the piece of 10awg wire jumpers the coils together making them 4ohm drivers.

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post #10322 of 10351 Old 06-02-2018, 04:20 AM
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Any of you guys use these in a 2 channel music only system? If so how good do they work? Wondering if i should add one to my new JTR Noesis 215RT's. Thanks!
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post #10323 of 10351 Old 06-02-2018, 04:53 AM
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Any of you guys use these in a 2 channel music only system? If so how good do they work? Wondering if i should add one to my new JTR Noesis 215RT's. Thanks!
I've a 2 channel setup in the garage with lilmikes tapped horn picowrecker(uses a single SWS alpine 10") paired with basically custom made Fustion 10's as mains. Sounds awesome btw. Adding a second picowrecker since have space and an extra channel on the ep4000 powering it. Feeding about 900wRMS to the one cab now. HPF @25hz -12db slope.

I use the upstairs Danleys in 2ch mode with running just 2 of the fusion 12 (tempests) for music sometimes. It works but sometimes I like to boost the low end a few db and overdo the volume. I'm a bass head for music. But detail wise the TH are great for balance not being muddy. Just direct, detailed and accurate sounding.

As a tapped horn enthusiast I'd say you'd like it for 2ch listening as well as movies. The dts-10 definitely is king with movies due to the low knee in the bandwidth ie approx 11hz.

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post #10324 of 10351 Old 06-02-2018, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
I've a 2 channel setup in the garage with lilmikes tapped horn picowrecker(uses a single SWS alpine 10") paired with basically custom made Fustion 10's as mains. Sounds awesome btw. Adding a second picowrecker since have space and an extra channel on the ep4000 powering it. Feeding about 900wRMS to the one cab now. HPF @25hz -12db slope.

I use the upstairs Danleys in 2ch mode with running just 2 of the fusion 12 (tempests) for music sometimes. It works but sometimes I like to boost the low end a few db and overdo the volume. I'm a bass head for music. But detail wise the TH are great for balance not being muddy. Just direct, detailed and accurate sounding.

As a tapped horn enthusiast I'd day you'd like it for 2ch listening as well as movies. The dts-10 definitely is king with movies due to the low knee in the bandwidth ie approx 11hz.

Thank you for the listening impression. Sounds like a potential future upgrade!
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post #10325 of 10351 Old 08-08-2018, 12:39 PM
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What a great info source still going after these years. My DTS-10 never fails to impress visitors to my black basement theater. Just ordered 2 Alpine drivers from Sonic to replace my stock drivers. I'll keep the stock ones as back up.

peace,
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post #10326 of 10351 Old 08-08-2018, 01:02 PM
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Mark if you are able please post photos of the upgrade process as well as your experience once it is complete!

My perpetual home theater build - Omaha Theater #5
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post #10327 of 10351 Old 09-01-2018, 04:18 AM
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Two DTS-10’s for sale in the classifieds. These hardly ever come up for sale as I check often. If I weren’t in the middle of a dedicated room build and already triple my initial budget I’d be all over them so I’d have 6

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post #10328 of 10351 Old 09-01-2018, 07:41 AM
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Two DTS-10’s for sale in the classifieds. These hardly ever come up for sale as I check often. If I weren’t in the middle of a dedicated room build and already triple my initial budget I’d be all over them so I’d have 6
4 can fill some serious space.....6 is insane unless trying to fill over 3000 sq ft, but this is AVS and no replacement for displacement. Seriously 6 would be like 32x 18's on a pile of clone amps. Come on man no reason to put that much pressure on yourself during movie scenes. Concrete bunker with raised wood floor might handle it. Otherwise I'd set aside budget to fix room flaws as they appear. Cracks, broken lights, hell may even destroy the projector
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post #10329 of 10351 Old 04-23-2019, 07:39 PM
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One of my DTS-10 drivers is blown. Can someone suggest me a good replacement driver? is Alpine R-W12D2 the best alternative?

Last edited by abhilash220; 04-23-2019 at 08:30 PM.
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post #10330 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by abhilash220 View Post
One of my DTS-10 drivers is blown. Can someone suggest me a good replacement driver? is Alpine R-W12D2 the best alternative?
No complaints here. The Alpine drivers IMO are much better all around than the factory drivers. Replaced all drivers in my 2 cabinets with no regrets. I highly recommend them.
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post #10331 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by abhilash220 View Post
One of my DTS-10 drivers is blown. Can someone suggest me a good replacement driver? is Alpine R-W12D2 the best alternative?
How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.

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post #10332 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 08:52 AM
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No complaints here. The Alpine drivers IMO are much better all around than the factory drivers. Replaced all drivers in my 2 cabinets with no regrets. I highly recommend them.
Thank you! Ordered 'em.
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post #10333 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.
Honestly I don't know, I rarely play my speakers loud. I don't use a HPF.

When I said the driver is blown, I didn't mean there is any physical damage I could see. There is this noise similar to nails vibrating on a metal sheet from inside the magnet housing. When I took out the driver and bump it on the floor, the same noise is there. I guess something is loose inside.
Anyway I have ordered the Alpines.
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post #10334 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 09:21 AM
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Honestly I don't know, I rarely play my speakers loud. I don't use a HPF.
Well, now is a good time to start using one.

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post #10335 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
How did you blow the driver out of curiosity? Are you using an HPF?

Obviously if you go the Alpine route you will want to replace both drivers and not just the blown one.
This might be dumb question. One of Alpine drivers is already with me. The other might take a while as it is back ordered.
Are there any possibilities for damage if I use the Alpine with the original till the second Alpine arrives?
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post #10336 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by abhilash220 View Post
...Are there any possibilities for damage if I use the Alpine with the original till the second Alpine arrives?...

First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.
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post #10337 of 10351 Old 04-25-2019, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.
Looks like R-W12D2 is the replacement of the SWR. They are not available anymore here in Canada. Also if you look at the picture on the first post of this page, the model number shows R-W12D2.
Today I replaced the faulty one and there was a significant improvement. I think I was listening to the blown driver for a while and never realized.
I have two other 18" subwoofers in the theater and I don't enjoy hearing the rattles from the walls/doors. It takes me out of the movie. So I look for a balance and I never really play them very loud.
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post #10338 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
First of all, why are you buying a different model Alpine driver? All the previous comments were regarding the SWR-12D2 driver.

Is the SWR-12D2 obsolete now? (It looks like you can still get them here)


The Alpine R-W12D2 is not the same as the SWR-12D2, it's got a lower power handling spec and some of the Thiel-Small parameters are a little different too.
I know tapped horn enclosures are very sensitive to driver parameters, but if you're lucky the differences might be small enough to be ignored.


To answer your question, if you really only listen at low volume then there should be no problem mixing drivers until your second one arrives.


The W series alpines which are replacing both SWR and replacing the SWS with W identifiers are more power handling versions than the originals. They still model well for the drivers they replace. Running the W series in my danley cabs and the newer W series SWS type S in my picowreckers (4 of them). Sound just as awesome and really take a beating with power levels.

"dB levels? - Long as can't foam my beer."
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post #10339 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by abhilash220 View Post
Honestly I don't know, I rarely play my speakers loud. I don't use a HPF.

When I said the driver is blown, I didn't mean there is any physical damage I could see. There is this noise similar to nails vibrating on a metal sheet from inside the magnet housing. When I took out the driver and bump it on the floor, the same noise is there. I guess something is loose inside.
Anyway I have ordered the Alpines.
You really need a high pass filter at 11Hz to run these up to potential without the drivers unloading. If no filters at all they will bottom the drivers slamming them into the backplates (unloading by being out of cabinets bandwidth) this damages the back of the coil and causes scrapes and rattles. The rattles are exaggerated due to the fact the horn exit is so high efficiency you hear it. When a hatch is off and push on a driver or listening close it might be hard to hear directly due to not being amplified by the cabinet.

Please do yourself a favor and use a HPF @11hz minimal -12db but recommended up to -24db.

The other 4 necessary filters in this thread are highly recommended also and should always be run with these as the factory does. They are.

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3
PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7
PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8
PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2

All in all thats 5 filters minimum everyone using a dts10 should be using. Then adjust to room eq. These filters are cabinet eq and required for it to survive.
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post #10340 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
You really need a high pass filter at 11Hz to run these up to potential without the drivers unloading. If no filters at all they will bottom the drivers slamming them into the backplates (unloading by being out of cabinets bandwidth) this damages the back of the coil and causes scrapes and rattles. The rattles are exaggerated due to the fact the horn exit is so high efficiency you hear it. When a hatch is off and push on a driver or listening close it might be hard to hear directly due to not being amplified by the cabinet.

Please do yourself a favor and use a HPF @11hz minimal -12db but recommended up to -24db.

The other 4 necessary filters in this thread are highly recommended also and should always be run with these as the factory does. They are.

PEQ minus 4.6dB, @ 29Hz, Q=5 BW=0.2881 BFD=17.3
PEQ minus 8.4dB @ 55Hz, Q=8.9 BW=0.162 BFD=9.7
PEQ minus 7.5dB @ 84Hz, Q=2.8 BW=0.5125 BFD=30.8
PEQ minus 14.4dB @ 154Hz, Q=1.1 BW=1.2701 BFD=76.2

All in all thats 5 filters minimum everyone using a dts10 should be using. Then adjust to room eq. These filters are cabinet eq and required for it to survive.
Thank you for the input. I read a few threads on the topic and have some idea now. What I can't find is any particular recommendation for the EQ and HPF. Do you have any suggestions? I would prefer them to be not too expensive.
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post #10341 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 01:01 PM
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I don't see the DIY kit on Danley's website. Cam the kitsch still be bought? Are the plans available anywhere?
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post #10342 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by abhilash220 View Post
Thank you for the input. I read a few threads on the topic and have some idea now. What I can't find is any particular recommendation for the EQ and HPF. Do you have any suggestions? I would prefer them to be not too expensive.
miniDSP should fit the bill. What amps are on sub duty?
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post #10343 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 02:04 PM
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miniDSP should fit the bill. What amps are on sub duty?
Thank you. I just finalized on the miniDSP 2X4. Not sure if I should get the HD version for twice the cost.
Behringer Ep4000 is running the DTS-10. Another EP4000 for the 2 IXL 18" ported subs.
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post #10344 of 10351 Old 04-26-2019, 02:16 PM
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I would go with the HD. My horned subs almost max out the distance/delay value on Audyssey and doesn't leave much room for subs/mains integration. Also have to consider the output voltage from the AVR when browsing the miniDSP lineup.
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post #10345 of 10351 Old 04-27-2019, 11:16 AM
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I don't see the DIY kit on Danley's website. Cam the kitsch still be bought? Are the plans available anywhere?
No kits available, it was a slim window of opportunity back then to buy one. Luckily Tom and the Gents at Danley allowed a kit to even exist at the time.

Special day for me was I actually picked up the very last kit of the final kit production run. Bought my second kit 22 Apr 2011 and picked up at QMS 29 Jul 2011. They gave a nice quick tour of the facility I wasn't expecting. Needless to say it's understood why they are used to make majority of pro cabs there.

No plans i'm aware of. Online I believe some share the THspud plans using the 8's. There are probably some that try to model and use pictures in this thread to scale dts10 dimensions and folds. Same with the TH50 clones.

All kits of dts10s assembled I'm aware of are glued and screwed sealed forever.

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post #10346 of 10351 Old 04-28-2019, 10:29 PM
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No kits available, it was a slim window of opportunity back then to buy one. Luckily Tom and the Gents at Danley allowed a kit to even exist at the time.

Special day for me was I actually picked up the very last kit of the final kit production run. Bought my second kit 22 Apr 2011 and picked up at QMS 29 Jul 2011. They gave a nice quick tour of the facility I wasn't expecting. Needless to say it's understood why they are used to make majority of pro cabs there.

No plans i'm aware of. Online I believe some share the THspud plans using the 8's. There are probably some that try to model and use pictures in this thread to scale dts10 dimensions and folds. Same with the TH50 clones.

All kits of dts10s assembled I'm aware of are glued and screwed sealed forever.
That is very disappointing. I would LOVE to build two of these kits.
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post #10347 of 10351 Old 05-02-2019, 03:28 AM
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This tapped horn design that uses one Lab12, has its knee at 16hz, works well with all the Alpine SWS and SWR that I have modelled and measured (including the new R-W series) and has been likened to the DTS20 might be a viable alternative?
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post #10348 of 10351 Old 06-02-2019, 04:16 PM
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Does the DTS-10 deserve new test charts & graphs to better represent what its owners actually hear at home?

I certainly think so.
I’ve always wondered why the existing frequency response, spectrogram, waterfall & distortion graphs are so awful, and so different from what I’m experiencing at home, but I finally realized that the DTS-10 was never designed to play outside in the anechoic space of an open field, it’s supposed to be played in the smaller acoustical space typically found within the average home.

I think the problem is that it’s become so widely accepted that the best place to measure a subwoofer or full range speaker is either in an anechoic room or in the great outdoors in order to prevent reflections from contaminating the measurements. This method works well for direct radiator designs (i.e. sealed, infinite baffle or vented designs) but it definitely does not work well for the DTS-10 because the acoustical transformer properties of a horn are greatly affected by the acoustical impedance of the air that they are designed to play in, whereas a direct radiators response is not appreciably affected at all.

Tom Danley has already explained this in post #430 of this thread. Tom answers multiple questions in that post, but in paragraphs 1, 2, 3 & 5 he explains to "bossobass" how the frequency response of the TH-115’s gets smoothed out when it's operated in a space with higher acoustical radiation resistance, which occurs when either multiple subwoofers are operated close to each other, or when a single sub is operating in a smaller fractional space. (like indoors or close to a wall or corner)
Tom makes it very clear that the DTS-10 was never designed to operate in a free space environment.

Tom’s attached picture at the end of the post (visible here) shows multiple characteristics affected when operating in a higher acoustical radiation resistance location, notably:
- a flattening the power response curve.
- extending the low frequency cut-off point.
- increasing efficiency/raising sensitivity.

I think the only fair way of assessing the DTS-10’s true capabilities are to measure them in a small acoustical space that is somehow devoid of reflections, but I don’t know how that can be done. I’d like to hear your opinions/suggestions on possible methods that can achieve that goal.

Previously, reviewers made use of the near-field measurement method when testing subwoofers indoors, where the microphone is placed as close to the sound source as possible in order to reduce room reflection contribution to a minimum. This is the only method I can think of that will provide measurements more closely resembling what I hear in my listening position.


Examples of outdoor versus near-field indoor measurements: (Note: no EQ is used on indoor signals)
Outdoor measurement.

Notice the typical peaky response with a major resonance at 55Hz.

My indoor near-field measurement, positioned in right front corner of room, sub is parallel to and approximately 6" from right wall, mouth is facing wall.

Notice how the peaky response is greatly reduced, and the 55Hz resonance has dropped to 51Hz.


Indoor near-field measurement, right front corner diagonal placement. (sub placed 45° against front and right wall with mouth facing corner)

Notice how the deep bass energy is higher than the upper bass energy now.


Indoor near-field measurement comparison, parallel to diagonal placement differences.

This graph shows just how much deep bass energy is gained without changing the input drive level just by placing the sub diagonally in the corner, also the 51Hz peak has now dropped to 47Hz!


Outdoor spectrogram.

Most of the energy is in the upper bass and isolated to two narrow frequency domains.


Indoor near-field spectrogram.

Notice how the bass energy is more evenly spread out and extends to <20Hz.


Outdoor waterfall display.

Notice the prominent ringing at 55Hz & 100Hz.


Indoor near-field waterfall display.

Notice how all frequencies take longer to decay in a non-anechoic environment.
The shape of the waterfall at 0mS is the DTS-10 frequency response, whereas the shape of the waterfall at 300mS is the rooms natural resonant frequency response.
Notice that most of the DTS-10 peaks in the response do not correlate to the rooms peaks. The 47Hz peak is actually notched out and the 100Hz peak has split to 96Hz and 102Hz.


Since those were all near-field measurements, you're probably wondering what the listening position measurements look like.
This is an average of six seating position measurements available in the room. (No EQ)

I think this is very different from the original outdoor measurement.
Anechoic measurements just don't reflect what you will get when an indoor horn/tapped horn speaker is listened to or measured indoors.


How much EQ is required to flatten the response of a DTS-10 indoors?

Notice that less than +/-5dB is required to flatten the listening position response to my liking, and even the 47Hz peak only needs a 2.5dB cut to remove any remnants of the peak from view.


The point I'm trying to make here is that very little EQ is necessary to make a DTS-10 perform wonderfully in an indoor location, compared to the misleading conclusions one could jump to based on outdoor anechoic measurements.
I think it's time we respond to comments from other forum members about the DTS-10's abysmal outdoor measurements by stating that those graphs were not taken in its designed operating environment.


When it comes to horns, the ones that are designed to play outdoors should be measured outdoors, but the ones that are designed to be played indoors should be measured either indoors or in a simulated indoor condition, whatever that may be.
I would really like to hear other peoples ideas on how to take better indoor measurements. Let us know what ideas work to reduce room induced aberrations while maintaining the high radiation resistance of a small acoustical space.
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Last edited by stereo2.0; 07-07-2019 at 09:11 PM. Reason: Changed wording/image to clarify intent of message.
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post #10349 of 10351 Old 06-03-2019, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
Does the DTS-10 deserve new test charts & graphs to better represent what its owners actually hear at home?

I certainly think so.
I’ve always wondered why the existing frequency response, spectrogram, waterfall & distortion graphs are so awful, and so different from what I’m experiencing at home, but I finally realized that the DTS-10 was never designed to play outside in the anechoic space of an open field, it’s supposed to be played in the smaller acoustical space typically found within the average home.

I think the problem is that it’s become so widely accepted that the best place to measure a subwoofer or full range speaker is either in an anechoic room or in the great outdoors in order to prevent reflections from contaminating the measurements. This method works well for direct radiator designs (i.e. sealed, infinite baffle or vented designs) but it definitely does not work well for the DTS-10 because the acoustical transformer properties of a horn are greatly affected by the acoustical impedance of the air that they are designed to play in, whereas a direct radiators response is not appreciably affected at all.

Tom Danley has already explained this in post #430 of this thread. Tom answers multiple questions in that post, but in paragraphs 1, 2, 3 & 5 he explains to "bossobass" how the frequency response of the TH-115’s gets smoothed out when it's operated in a space with higher acoustical radiation resistance, which occurs when either multiple subwoofers are operated close to each other, or when a single sub is operating in a smaller fractional space. (like indoors or close to a wall or corner)
Tom makes it very clear that the DTS-10 was never designed to operate in a free space environment.

Tom’s attached picture at the end of the post (visible here) shows multiple characteristics affected when operating in a higher acoustical radiation resistance location, notably:
- a flattening the power response curve.
- extending the low frequency cut-off point.
- increasing efficiency/raising sensitivity.

I think the only fair way of assessing the DTS-10’s true capabilities are to measure them in a small acoustical space that is somehow devoid of reflections, but I don’t know how that can be done. I’d like to hear your opinions/suggestions on possible methods that can achieve that goal.

Previously, reviewers made use of the near-field measurement method when testing subwoofers indoors, where the microphone is placed as close to the sound source as possible in order to reduce room reflection contribution to a minimum. This is the only method I can think of that will provide measurements more closely resembling what I hear in my listening position.


Examples of outdoor versus near-field indoor measurements: (Note: no EQ is used on indoor signals)
Outdoor measurement.

Notice the typical peaky response with a major resonance at 55Hz.

My indoor near-field measurement, positioned in right front corner of room, sub is parallel to and approximately 6" from right wall, mouth is facing wall.

Notice how the peaky response is greatly reduced, and the 55Hz resonance has dropped to 51Hz.


Indoor near-field measurement, right front corner diagonal placement. (sub placed 45° against front and right wall with mouth facing corner)

Notice how the deep bass energy is higher than the upper bass energy now.


Indoor near-field measurement comparison, parallel to diagonal placement differences.

This graph shows just how much deep bass energy is gained without changing the input drive level just by placing the sub diagonally in the corner, also the 51Hz peak has now dropped to 46Hz!


Outdoor spectrogram.

Most of the energy is in the upper bass and isolated to two narrow frequency domains.


Indoor near-field spectrogram.

Notice how the bass energy is more evenly spread out and extends to <20Hz.


Outdoor waterfall display.

Notice the prominent ringing at 55Hz & 100Hz.


Indoor near-field waterfall display.

Notice how all frequencies take longer to decay in a non-anechoic environment.
The shape of the waterfall at 0mS is the DTS-10 frequency response, whereas the shape of the waterfall at 300mS is the rooms natural resonant frequency response.
Notice that most of the DTS-10 peaks in the response do not correlate to the rooms peaks. The 46Hz peak is actually notched out and the 100Hz peak has split to 96Hz and 102Hz.


Since those were all near-field measurements, you're probably wondering what the listening position measurements look like.
This is an average of six seating position measurements available in the room. (No EQ)

I think this is very different from the original outdoor measurement.
Anechoic measurements just don't reflect what you will get when an indoor horn/tapped horn speaker is listened to or measured indoors.


How much EQ is required to flatten the response of a DTS-10 indoors?

Notice that less than +/-5dB is required to flatten the listening position response to my liking, and even the 46Hz peak only needs a 2.5dB cut to remove any remnants of the peak from view.


The above settings were used to flatten the response in this central seating location.

(Please ignore the nasty notch at 68Hz. The microphone was sitting on the backrest for this sweep and the notch goes away if the mic is moved forward to where a head would be)



The point I'm trying to make here is that very little EQ is necessary to make a DTS-10 useful in an indoor location, compared to the misleading conclusions one could jump to based on outdoor anechoic measurements.
I think it's time we respond to any negative comments from other forum members about the DTS-10's abysmal measurements by stating that previous graphs were not taken in its designed environment.
(That's like stating Ferrari's don't have fast acceleration, when you're actually testing it on a gravel road)


When it comes to horns, the ones that are designed to play outdoors should be measured outdoors, but the ones that are designed to be played indoors should be measured either indoors or in a simulated indoor condition, whatever that may be.
I would really like to hear other peoples ideas on how to take better indoor measurements. Let us know what ideas work to reduce room induced aberrations while maintaining the high radiation resistance of a small acoustical space.

IMO when something works as well as the DTS10s, it will be criticized to the point it justifies ownership. To each their own. When setup with correct EQ in a room, yes the mind baffles over what can come out of 2x 12s on relatively minimal power compared to a wall of drivers. It will be scrutinized to the end of AVS time, just learn to accept it

BTW can we just push the thread to over 1M views already. Most viewed thread in the diy sub forum, but 1M has a nice ring to it.

"dB levels? - Long as can't foam my beer."
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post #10350 of 10351 Old 06-03-2019, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post
I think the only fair way of assessing the DTS-10’s true capabilities are to measure them in a small acoustical space that is somehow devoid of reflections, but I don’t know how that can be done. I’d like to hear your opinions/suggestions on possible methods that can achieve that goal.

The only thing that occurs to me is an outdoor measurement with vertical panels adjacent to the DTS-10 to simulate nearby wall surfaces.

This would give the increased acoustic impedance that they contribute but not muddy things up with ceiling and far wall reflections.

Noah
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