Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 35 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1021 of 1062 Old 01-01-2018, 02:17 AM
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Talking New Reed Exodus build w/TB woofer

Hey all, I hadn't seen a build post here for a while so I thought I'd put up some in progress shots of the Exodus build my son and I have been working on... This sub is paired with a set of Overnight Sensations that we built from a DIYSG kit + flat pack a couple of weeks ago. I've posted a couple of pics of those here too... We just finished the sub assembly and we've run some tests... This sub is a beast! Sounds so good with the OS's. It's been YEARS since I built a speaker and, I have to say, it feels good to be back at it!
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post #1022 of 1062 Old 01-12-2018, 11:08 AM
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Nice to see this design is still going strong. I’m planning to build one (or maybe 2) of these. I see Erich over at DIY has the Anarchy woofers now so will use them.
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post #1023 of 1062 Old 01-12-2018, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GWZ View Post
Nice to see this design is still going strong. I’m planning to build one (or maybe 2) of these. I see Erich over at DIY has the Anarchy woofers now so will use them.
I used the Tang Band W6-1139SIF. Worked great
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post #1024 of 1062 Old 02-05-2018, 01:13 PM
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C'mon, guys, please, help the noob
Now I'm looking on some back loaded horn with 8-10" Fostex or Audio Nirvana full range. What would you say?
hi!
here's what i say - find a used or nos pair of Focal 5W4252 midwoofers and Hiquphon OWII tweeters, and build the dillon acoustics ego kit; it would be excellent w/these subs, imo.

just do a websearch on "dillon acoustics ego" and you will find it; i am not allowed to upload the link - too few posts.

the reason i was reading this thread was because i have a pair of the dillon ego's, (w/over-built cabinet & upgraded x-over parts), and they're great; extreme over-achievers, imo.

doug s.
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post #1025 of 1062 Old 02-11-2018, 06:48 PM
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I have permission from the wife to build one of these to hide in a cabinet! I'm excited but so swamped with other projects. This will be my 3rd LilMike build (not including his help with my LilMike version of EconoWaves).
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post #1026 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 11:57 AM
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Hey guys, bringing this one back from the dead. I've been looking at this design to build a couple for my home office to pair with some bookshelves, and in looking for a source for the drivers, I noticed the original Anarchy driver doesn't appear to be available anymore. I see the Tang Band is available from Parts-Express, so I'll probably go with those. However - I also noticed that diysoundgroup has a 7" Anarchy woofer available on their website. I'm assuming this is a different speaker that wouldn't work for this design but since the Anarchy woofer was considered the best performer, I figured I'd confirm.



Thanks in advance.

Jeremy
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post #1027 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeyejw View Post
Hey guys, bringing this one back from the dead. I've been looking at this design to build a couple for my home office to pair with some bookshelves, and in looking for a source for the drivers, I noticed the original Anarchy driver doesn't appear to be available anymore. I see the Tang Band is available from Parts-Express, so I'll probably go with those. However - I also noticed that diysoundgroup has a 7" Anarchy woofer available on their website. I'm assuming this is a different speaker that wouldn't work for this design but since the Anarchy woofer was considered the best performer, I figured I'd confirm.
Its the same driver as before..... the original company making it went under, but let Erich (DIYSoundGroup) continue having it made...

This text is directly from that DIYSoundGroup product listing page:
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As we all know from the website, DIY Cable-Exodus sadly closed it's doors. The 7" Anarchy woofer that Kevin designed is an excellent woofer or midwoofer with it's massive 25mm peak-peak xmax. I'm happy to say that Kevin agreed to let me keep this little beast in production from the same manufacturer, same specs, and using the same materials as before. Kevin helped set up all the ordering to make sure everything was identical. Some people have asked why they aren't $93 like they used to be. There was a large group buy preorder set up to continue the production and I told everyone involved that I would keep them under $70 for as long as I could. Minimum order is two.

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post #1028 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkeyejw View Post
Hey guys, bringing this one back from the dead. I've been looking at this design to build a couple for my home office to pair with some bookshelves, and in looking for a source for the drivers, I noticed the original Anarchy driver doesn't appear to be available anymore. I see the Tang Band is available from Parts-Express, so I'll probably go with those. However - I also noticed that diysoundgroup has a 7" Anarchy woofer available on their website. I'm assuming this is a different speaker that wouldn't work for this design but since the Anarchy woofer was considered the best performer, I figured I'd confirm.



Thanks in advance.

Jeremy
Jeremy,

The DIYSoundGroup Anarchy woofer is the same woofer as the original - the designer ceased selling it but Erich was able to obtain the design and find a builder. So it's a drop in replacement.

That's my understanding anyway.
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post #1029 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 12:51 PM
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For sure it has the same published specs and thanks for the info, wasn't aware it was still available.

GM

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post #1030 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoiswes View Post
Jeremy,

The DIYSoundGroup Anarchy woofer is the same woofer as the original - the designer ceased selling it but Erich was able to obtain the design and find a builder. So it's a drop in replacement.

That's my understanding anyway.

That's great news, thanks for the quick response!


Edit: Thanks to EndersShadow as well.
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post #1031 of 1062 Old 06-27-2018, 01:11 PM
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It's the same woofer and manufacturer. There were no changes made.
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post #1032 of 1062 Old 08-25-2018, 10:17 AM
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Popping in to give a quick thank you to @Erich H and @lilmike - I finished up a couple of these for my home office and just wired them up. They rock! Two of these fed about 60 wpc are able to play loud and clean in my small 12'x12' office. I still need to put an HPF on them before I really go crazy but playing one of my reference scenes this morning - the shootout in Open Range, I was able to get a good amount of chest punch despite pretty horrible room acoustics and having not spend any time yet dialing them in. Music sounds fantastic too. Awesome little subs and a fun project too! I had an old Pioneer A35-R I was able to draft into service to power them so total investment is somewhere around $225, which is hard to beat.

I've already started thinking about 2 picowreckers for my living room setup to see what they can do in a very large open space...
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post #1033 of 1062 Old 10-29-2018, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Erich H View Post
It's the same woofer and manufacturer. There were no changes made.
Is this the Anarchy 70(4|8) on your site? The original plans were for a 6.5" driver, so I'm just trying to make sure that the larger diameter is OK. Thanks!
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post #1034 of 1062 Old 10-29-2018, 07:24 PM
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It's a 6.5" driver [~5" dia. diaphragm] in a ~7" frame.

GM
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post #1035 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 05:48 PM
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sorry if i missed it, are there any issues beyond adding weight to build with MDF?

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post #1036 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 05:59 PM
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sorry if i missed it, are there any issues beyond adding weight to build with MDF?
None, as long as the thickness is the same or VERY nearly the same.

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post #1037 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post
None, as long as the thickness is the same or VERY nearly the same.

i was worried about that after seeing most of the ply was around .453 or so actual. do we have a tolerance level here before i run into issues?

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post #1038 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
i was worried about that after seeing most of the ply was around .453 or so actual. do we have a tolerance level here before i run into issues?
The first panel with the driver mounted is the most critical. After that, small variances will not radically affect the design.
Obviously, the exact spec'd materials are preferred, but that small of a difference should be negligible.

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post #1039 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 06:47 PM
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i can add out from that point no problem. i stumbled across this thread and remembered my cousin just got a pair of these mids in a trade a few weeks ago so i'm bartering some 8's i have for them.

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post #1040 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
i can add out from that point no problem. i stumbled across this thread and remembered my cousin just got a pair of these mids in a trade a few weeks ago so i'm bartering some 8's i have for them.
Sweet! Go for it!

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post #1041 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 07:15 PM
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once i have them in hand i'll see what i can do and hopefully add more visuals to this thread

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post #1042 of 1062 Old 12-12-2018, 10:59 PM
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I use and recommend ply because I am not a fan of MDF. I just don't like working with it.

Dimensionally? It should work out fine, as I recall, I drew the panels at half an inch.

MDF is weaker than ply and does not take fasteners nearly as well. Should work out OK if you're careful, cut your joints tight, and use enough PL though.
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post #1043 of 1062 Old 12-13-2018, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
I use and recommend ply because I am not a fan of MDF. I just don't like working with it.

Dimensionally? It should work out fine, as I recall, I drew the panels at half an inch.

MDF is weaker than ply and does not take fasteners nearly as well. Should work out OK if you're careful, cut your joints tight, and use enough PL though.
+1

I refuse to use MDF for anything.

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post #1044 of 1062 Old 12-13-2018, 03:57 PM
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man, i really don't mind using it. probably because its a cheaper and easier to get option so i've always used it.


one more quick question after the suggestion of PL. is that necessary or just a nice to have for gaps? i usually just use regular wood glue.

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post #1045 of 1062 Old 12-13-2018, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
man, i really don't mind using it. probably because its a cheaper and easier to get option so i've always used it.


one more quick question after the suggestion of PL. is that necessary or just a nice to have for gaps? i usually just use regular wood glue.
If your cuts are accurate and you can clamp the pieces well, then wood glue is fine.
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post #1046 of 1062 Old 12-14-2018, 04:46 AM
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PL Premium is completely waterproof too, can bond wet and frozen 2x4 lumber with the stuff. Since you’re using MDF though, that’s gonna be your weak spot before the wood glue. Just don’t submerge the cabinet in water and you’ll be fine 😝

Yay! A Signature!

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post #1047 of 1062 Old 12-14-2018, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
man, i really don't mind using it. probably because its a cheaper and easier to get option so i've always used it.


one more quick question after the suggestion of PL. is that necessary or just a nice to have for gaps? i usually just use regular wood glue.
I just prefer PL because it is a one-way trip with a horn. Once you put that top panel on, there is no way to get back inside to run a bead along the seams or seal something if there is a leak or a bad bond on one of the panels, etc.
It can be messy at times, but it is insurance. You can build up a heavy double-bead on all the internal panels that virtually guarantees that there will be no leaks and a strong bond as it expands to fill all the gaps. You are never going to see inside of it to care if any oozes out along a panel.

I just never trust my cuts 100%. I am always afraid that one panel will be .01" higher than the other causing the one beside it to not seal/bond perfectly...or a small wood chip gets in the glue while I am setting the top panel on...

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Joe's LOWARHORN build, Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build

Last edited by jpmst3; 12-14-2018 at 07:35 AM.
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post #1048 of 1062 Old 12-14-2018, 12:34 PM
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+1 to the above.

PL Premium isn't perfect, but the fact that it expands to fill gaps has helped me make tight horns more often than not. I can't get back in to seal things in a typical horn build like I can with a conventional cabinet. On conventional cabinets, I always caulk the interior seams.
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post #1049 of 1062 Old 12-14-2018, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
man, i really don't mind using it. probably because its a cheaper and easier to get option so i've always used it.


one more quick question after the suggestion of PL. is that necessary or just a nice to have for gaps? i usually just use regular wood glue.
Have you ever built a folded horn? All the seams inside must be airtight or the cabinet won't work right.
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post #1050 of 1062 Old 12-14-2018, 01:32 PM
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No truer words spoken......... learned the hard way that even a pinhole too small to notice in a driver's surround at rest can completely ruin even a simple vented alignment to near open baffle response, so in a folded horn, two or more sections can be reduced to just a fraction of its axial length, acting somewhat like a low pass filter [AKA muffler], part III.A: http://users.cms.caltech.edu/~ps/All.pdf

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