Reed Exodus Anarchy 25hz Tapped Horn - Page 36 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1051 of 1064 Old 12-14-2018, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post
I just prefer PL because it is a one-way trip with a horn. Once you put that top panel on, there is no way to get back inside to run a bead along the seams or seal something if there is a leak or a bad bond on one of the panels, etc.
It can be messy at times, but it is insurance. You can build up a heavy double-bead on all the internal panels that virtually guarantees that there will be no leaks and a strong bond as it expands to fill all the gaps. You are never going to see inside of it to care if any oozes out along a panel.

I just never trust my cuts 100%. I am always afraid that one panel will be .01" higher than the other causing the one beside it to not seal/bond perfectly...or a small wood chip gets in the glue while I am setting the top panel on...



thank you sir, this has convinced me on not taking a gamble. i started out using this stuff many years ago for car sub boxes and hated the mess and moved on to glue once i got good at cutting accurately. seems though since there is no access on these designs i shouldn't risk it.

samsung un55hu9000 sek3500 Marantz av7702 Audiocontrol Savoy 7x150 4x MA500U
swope center, tmww fronts, tm surrounds and rears
polk audio OWM3 x4 atmos
4 12" t3 audio subs ep4000 amp 2x15" type r sonotubes
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post #1052 of 1064 Old 12-15-2018, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
thank you sir, this has convinced me on not taking a gamble. i started out using this stuff many years ago for car sub boxes and hated the mess and moved on to glue once i got good at cutting accurately. seems though since there is no access on these designs i shouldn't risk it.
Yes, I had a panel not bond properly in a large horn on an early build and it would vibrate on occasion. My only recourse was to get an 10" screw (used for roofing insulation) and run into the side on act of desperation. Fortunately, it did work but I would have much preferred to not have to do that.

Since then, I use liberal quantities of PL.

______________________________________________
Joe = LFE Addict
Past Builds: 24" LMS-5400 cube, Anarchy 25Hz Tapped Horn, Danley DTS-10 kit, BFM AutoTuba, BFM THT, BFM THT-LP
Joe's LOWARHORN build, Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build

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post #1053 of 1064 Old 12-15-2018, 01:34 PM
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good news, just finished the trade. i got two woofers, wood, and glue from the trade. now to find time to start the build.

samsung un55hu9000 sek3500 Marantz av7702 Audiocontrol Savoy 7x150 4x MA500U
swope center, tmww fronts, tm surrounds and rears
polk audio OWM3 x4 atmos
4 12" t3 audio subs ep4000 amp 2x15" type r sonotubes
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post #1054 of 1064 Old 12-16-2018, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tashspop View Post
good news, just finished the trade. i got two woofers, wood, and glue from the trade. now to find time to start the build.
Nice! Let the dust fly!

______________________________________________
Joe = LFE Addict
Past Builds: 24" LMS-5400 cube, Anarchy 25Hz Tapped Horn, Danley DTS-10 kit, BFM AutoTuba, BFM THT, BFM THT-LP
Joe's LOWARHORN build, Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build
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post #1055 of 1064 Old 01-01-2019, 08:41 AM
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as mentioned before here are some pics. it was a fun build, not as complicated as I thought. I managed all cuts in just a few hours and started layout and build of one of them that day. finished the pair the next day and listened to them after an overnight cure. i'm powering them currently with a technics receiver with 100w sub powered channel in my garage. they will most likely take up garage duty for now. its not the loudest I've had out there but they do sound good and I really enjoy the sub not being exposed, only a box with a square hole. there is a surprising amount of air coming from that port too which is fun. one day I may haul them into my bedroom and see how I like them there on a plate amp.


thank for all the help and suggestions to get these built. it went really smooth, except first layout got off a bit and I had to move the panels after gluing. I won't show a pic of the completed sub because I don't think it adds anything with this design, just a box.
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samsung un55hu9000 sek3500 Marantz av7702 Audiocontrol Savoy 7x150 4x MA500U
swope center, tmww fronts, tm surrounds and rears
polk audio OWM3 x4 atmos
4 12" t3 audio subs ep4000 amp 2x15" type r sonotubes
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post #1056 of 1064 Old 01-01-2019, 08:43 AM
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Good deal!

Congrats on a great build!

______________________________________________
Joe = LFE Addict
Past Builds: 24" LMS-5400 cube, Anarchy 25Hz Tapped Horn, Danley DTS-10 kit, BFM AutoTuba, BFM THT, BFM THT-LP
Joe's LOWARHORN build, Dual LMS-5400 Ultra Endtables build
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post #1057 of 1064 Old 01-01-2019, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post
Congrats on a great build!
What he said!

My two are still in use daily.

.

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post #1058 of 1064 Old 08-30-2019, 08:26 AM
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Hi,

I have 2 quick questions regarding this TH:

1-. The material used is 1/2 inches, right?

Is there any problem If I use 12mm material? Obviously some measures would vary, but not that much.

Or maybe you would recommend going to 15mm?

2-. also related to the other question... is there any plan in millimeters? or should I just use aprox. measures (no more than 1mm in variances)
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post #1059 of 1064 Old 08-30-2019, 10:35 AM
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I used 3/4 inch material and it worked just fine. Yes you are going to have to make some measurement changes but its not that big a deal
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post #1060 of 1064 Old 08-30-2019, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marto2009 View Post
Hi,

I have 2 quick questions regarding this TH:

1-. The material used is 1/2 inches, right?

Is there any problem If I use 12mm material? Obviously some measures would vary, but not that much.

Or maybe you would recommend going to 15mm?

2-. also related to the other question... is there any plan in millimeters? or should I just use aprox. measures (no more than 1mm in variances)
I drew the plans at 1/2", but the plywood used was most likely 12mm.

You can open the files in Sketchup and change the units to mm if needed.
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post #1061 of 1064 Old 08-30-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
I drew the plans at 1/2", but the plywood used was most likely 12mm.

You can open the files in Sketchup and change the units to mm if needed.
Mike,

Thanks for your reply,

So, no problem using 12mm plywood/mdf ?? Obviously -mostly- respecting all the measures of the horn.
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post #1062 of 1064 Old 09-02-2019, 09:57 PM
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Should be fine.

I've only ever measured/listened to these made out of 12 mm ply. I used Arauco and baltic birch for mine, radman12 used baltic birch for his.
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post #1063 of 1064 Old 03-26-2020, 12:37 PM
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I've been looking at these for a while now, reading the thread, learning about TH in general, playing around with HornResp and looked into getting the drivers. Still very early stages on the project and with the current situation it'll be a while before I get to start building.



In the mean while, while tinkering with the plans, looking over some measurements (and looking confused while trying to figure out how you're supposed to add fractions together on a calculator) and making notes, I was wondering how much can you modify the enclosure?

NOW, before anyone panics, I completely understand that it's all calculated and carefully designed and I'm not trying to do anything sacrilegious here. I'm just pondering the aesthetics and where the line would be with rounding the outer corners, like this:







Originally I was thinking about rounding all the outer corners, but modifying the mouth to that level could cause some issues.

There's bunch of horny-type enclosures where the builder/designer added diagonal pieces in the inside corners and I've seen some with rounded up ones as well. I've also seen comments saying that's a no no as it takes up so much volume.
I'd imagine rounding just the three corners would be fine up to a point. I'm just not sure where said point is, and that's really what I'm here asking. Is that something that has been properly tested somewhere?


Any and all advise, hints, encouragements, discouragements and refers to other sources of knowledge will be much appreciated



I know it's an old thread and all, but I really dig the design; the size, form factor, how low it plays... it's exactly what I've been looking for.
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post #1064 of 1064 Old 03-28-2020, 01:26 PM
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Cool. 10 years later people are still looking at this design.

Consider the size of the wavelengths involved. 100 Hz is 3.43 meters, or about 11.3 feet, They're 5 times that size when you get to the low corner of this design. When the largest dimension of the cabinet is less than a quarter wavelength, it is still "small" acoustically, so the corners don't really matter all that much.

I have not tested reflectors in this cabinet, but I did some extensive testing on reflectors and corner fill in another design even longer ago. I found no significant difference.

Rounding the three corners for aesthetics will likely not harm anything, but it won't help anything other than the looks.
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