Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 413 Old 02-18-2016, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
I was looking over the plans for the DS1200 for down firing sealed configuration. The baffle is made of two layers, why do we need to recess the driver and attach to the inner baffle? Why not just cut the same size hole in both baffles and mount to the outside. Since it is down firing you will never see the driver? Bob

The recessed driver mounting is just for aesthetics, a carry over from the design of the front-firing enclosure. Mounting the woofer on a double-thick baffle is actually better, it being less resonant and that resonance at a frequency further above the passband of the driver, than that of a single baffle thickness. Just make the legs an extra 3/4" or so taller to compensate. I built my front-firing enclosures with double-thickness baffles (1.5") and the woofers recessed into a third 3/4" layer of MDF, just to make sure!
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post #392 of 413 Old 02-18-2016, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post
The recessed driver mounting is just for aesthetics, a carry over from the design of the front-firing enclosure. Mounting the woofer on a double-thick baffle is actually better, it being less resonant and that resonance at a frequency further above the passband of the driver, than that of a single baffle thickness. Just make the legs an extra 3/4" or so taller to compensate. I built my front-firing enclosures with double-thickness baffles (1.5") and the woofers recessed into a third 3/4" layer of MDF, just to make sure!
I think I am may do that, put them both together and cut one large hole. I have read that if I do that, I should chamfer out the back of the baffle a bit to allow good air flow around the back of the driver, does that make sense?

With the jasper jig, could I actually dado out say 1/4" of the top baffle by using increasing larger circles?
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post #393 of 413 Old 02-18-2016, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
I think I am may do that, put them both together and cut one large hole. I have read that if I do that, I should chamfer out the back of the baffle a bit to allow good air flow around the back of the driver, does that make sense?

With the jasper jig, could I actually dado out say 1/4" of the top baffle by using increasing larger circles?

Yep, the Jasper will do that, but if you mount the woofer with the rubber flange ring removed, the recess should be 3/8" deep rather 1/4". With the ring left on, I believe it needs to be 1/2" deep. For the backside, at subwoofer frequencies a chamfer is not necessary, but doesn't hurt either, so why not!
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post #394 of 413 Old 02-23-2016, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BDP24 View Post
Yep, the Jasper will do that, but if you mount the woofer with the rubber flange ring removed, the recess should be 3/8" deep rather 1/4". With the ring left on, I believe it needs to be 1/2" deep. For the backside, at subwoofer frequencies a chamfer is not necessary, but doesn't hurt either, so why not!
Thanks for your help, can you verify that the cutout for the 1201 is 11-3/16"? Bob
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post #395 of 413 Old 02-24-2016, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bob_m10 View Post
Thanks for your help, can you verify that the cutout for the 1201 is 11-3/16"? Bob

Sorry, no. I just moved 1100 miles, and all my stuff is in storage at the moment. An email or call to Rythmik should get you that info.
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post #396 of 413 Old 05-31-2016, 05:06 AM
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Has anyone built a 1501 kit with the HX800 amp? I have built 2 enclosed cabinets with this kit and seem to be having some confusion on the wiring of this particular amp. I am just curious if anyone else has any experience with particular amp?

Thanks

Don
Anthem AVM-60,Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Five-Channel Power Amplifier, Emotiva XPA-1l x2,Outlaw 5000. Rhythmik DIY 15inch x2, Plus, Magnapan 3.7i, Magnepan CC5,Magnepan MC1,JVC RS400, DIY 125" 2:35 Elite Screen cinegray 3d .
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post #397 of 413 Old 07-25-2016, 03:38 PM
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There is a discrepancy on the sealed DS1200 plan. For the driver cutout, one sheet calls out 11 3/16" and another calls out 11 3/8". Does anyone know which is the correct dimension?
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post #398 of 413 Old 07-28-2016, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuralFission View Post
There is a discrepancy on the sealed DS1200 plan. For the driver cutout, one sheet calls out 11 3/16" and another calls out 11 3/8". Does anyone know which is the correct dimension?

3/8".
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post #399 of 413 Old 04-02-2017, 03:11 PM
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This was a late 2016 build, a pair of FVX-15 kits...was a lot of fun.
Pics are of various stages of completion, the round one is sealed, and made of all maple ply ~16mm thickness. 1.5" baffle and cap made of Baltic Birch
The other obviously ported and made of all 18mm Baltic Birch.
Both subs are downfire (now), tucked away nicely into two corners of main-floor HT.

Couldn't decide, so I built one sealed and one ported, it may stay that way, as I like just the one sealed while playing music, and both on during movies.
Aesthetically, I may sand down the black ring on cap of sealed sub, should have stayed with the cherry stain on that... I'll fix that this spring.

The direct servo works just as advertised, subs start, and more importantly, stop on a dime, even the ported one.

Cheers
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Actually, I love tube amps..
I play guitars through them.
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post #400 of 413 Old 04-02-2017, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
This was a late 2016 build, a pair of FVX-15 kits...was a lot of fun.
Pics are of various stages of completion, the round one is sealed, and made of all maple ply ~16mm thickness. 1.5" baffle and cap made of Baltic Birch
The other obviously ported and made of all 18mm Baltic Birch.
Both subs are downfire (now), tucked away nicely into two corners of main-floor HT.

Couldn't decide, so I built one sealed and one ported, it may stay that way, as I like just the one sealed while playing music, and both on during movies.
Aesthetically, I may sand down the black ring on cap of sealed sub, should have stayed with the cherry stain on that... I'll fix that this spring.

The direct servo works just as advertised, subs start, and more importantly, stop on a dime, even the ported one.

Cheers
^^^^Beautiful craftsmanship 😁👍🏻
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post #401 of 413 Old 04-04-2017, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
This was a late 2016 build, a pair of FVX-15 kits...was a lot of fun.
Pics are of various stages of completion, the round one is sealed, and made of all maple ply ~16mm thickness. 1.5" baffle and cap made of Baltic Birch
The other obviously ported and made of all 18mm Baltic Birch.
Both subs are downfire (now), tucked away nicely into two corners of main-floor HT.

Couldn't decide, so I built one sealed and one ported, it may stay that way, as I like just the one sealed while playing music, and both on during movies.
Aesthetically, I may sand down the black ring on cap of sealed sub, should have stayed with the cherry stain on that... I'll fix that this spring.

The direct servo works just as advertised, subs start, and more importantly, stop on a dime, even the ported one.

Cheers
Nice job!
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post #402 of 413 Old 05-12-2017, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckingball View Post
This was a late 2016 build, a pair of FVX-15 kits...was a lot of fun.
Pics are of various stages of completion, the round one is sealed, and made of all maple ply ~16mm thickness. 1.5" baffle and cap made of Baltic Birch
The other obviously ported and made of all 18mm Baltic Birch.
Both subs are downfire (now), tucked away nicely into two corners of main-floor HT.

Couldn't decide, so I built one sealed and one ported, it may stay that way, as I like just the one sealed while playing music, and both on during movies.
Aesthetically, I may sand down the black ring on cap of sealed sub, should have stayed with the cherry stain on that... I'll fix that this spring.

The direct servo works just as advertised, subs start, and more importantly, stop on a dime, even the ported one.

Cheers
Excellent craftsmanship!
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post #403 of 413 Old 05-12-2017, 12:00 PM
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If anyone in the Chicagoland area is thinking of building the 15" version of these Rythmik subs, I have two enclosures that I built way back that are free for the taking. They are baltic birch with MDF laminated on the outside. These have a primer on them.
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post #404 of 413 Old 12-21-2018, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Van Belkom View Post
<br><br>
Brian thought it might be a good idea to have a seperate thread for the DIY Servo Subwoofer kits.<br><br>
This will help seperate the discussions between fully assembled units and DIY kits.<br><br>
Brian could you chime in and let us know what kits are currently available in the different configurations?<br><br>
Could you also let us know what is in the works and options available in the near future?<br><br>
This will help many of us that want to save money or have an custom finished enclosure made.
Rythmik audio DS1510HP CI build
I designed and will be building the cabinet for my DS1510HP myself, so I’m going to describe that. Most of the time will be spent on the actual build. My hope is that someone who needs some additional guidance on the details of building such a cabinet can get some use out of this.
DESIGN:
This cabinet is going to be part of a wall of built-in bookshelves and cabinets, so that pretty much constrained the design to match the other cabinets. That, plus general acoustics and mechanics issues, led to the following design constraints:
Driver placement: as far as possible to the front and bottom of the enclosure while still ensuring that the driver won’t hit the speaker grill.
Back wall placement: far enough back to provide a minimum of 2” clearance to the back of the driver.
External dimensions: 36” wide x 15” deep x 24” high
External volume: 3-4 cubic feet, with 3.5 being the optimum (as provided by email by Brian Ding of Rythmik Audio).
Bracing placement: external wherever possible. Internal bracing will tend to obstruct the air flow in what will be a shallow box .
Amplifier placement. Since the speaker baffle is the only vertical surface exposed, the amplifier has to be mounted on the baffle. This means that either the amplifier is in the enclosure with the driver, or airtight connections have to be provided between the amplifier and driver, through the walls of the inner enclosure.
Materials: Nominal 3/4” plywood: cherry veneer with hardwood inner plies for all visible surfaces, and Baltic (or Russian) birch plywood for the rest.
There are two basic options for the cherry plywood. One has a layer of medium density fiberboard (MDF)underneath the cherry veneer, and the other has all wood veneers. The MDF gives a very smooth surface, but previous experience with using it for bookshelves has taught me that it’s not as stiff as all wood veneer plywood.
Many people like Baltic birch plywood for cabinets. However, I’m putting a clear finish on these, and I would have had to veneer all the exposed surfaces. That’s a lot of work. Since I have used the cherry plywood on a previous subwoofer (NHT 1259 driver in a cabinet similar to this one) with good success, I decided the benefits of using all Baltic birch didn’t justify the labor involved.
The first three attachments are the plans for the cabinet: front elevation (with the speaker/amp baffles treated as transparent), two vertical cross-sections looking from the side at the position of the driver and the amplifier, and a horizontal cross-section looking from the top at the position of one of the horizontal braces. I don’t use 3D software for my plans, so I don’t have them available for this one. I trust that the plans will make sense once we see the construction pictures, if not sooner.
Rythmik says a sealed cabinet for this driver should be between 3-4 cubic feet. Brian Ding of Rythmik told me in an email that that’s the external enclosure size, and recommended 3.5 cu ft. The external volume of this cabinet is 4.04 cu ft, larger than the optimal size. I could have made the enclosure smaller by putting the amplifier outside it, but I decided that the complications of making an airtight electrical connection were not worth it. Once I decided to include the amplifier in the enclosure, there was no practical way to make the enclosure smaller without exceeding other design constraints.
Rithmyk also says to line the walls of the cabinet with batting, which they supply with the rest of the parts. All the walls except the front will be so lined.
Bracing: Most subwoofer designers place heavy emphasis on bracing the cabinet. I agree that it is necessary for such large cabinets. However, we need to remember the purpose of the bracing. We want any resonance in the cabinet to be at a higher frequency than anything the subwoofer will be reproducing. I’ve chosen to do that by using braces that divide the various panels into sections small enough that the resonant frequencies will be high enough.
Bracing in general: I chose to use 2x4 lumber for the braces, for several reasons. First, they take up a lot of space, and I need to reduce the volume of the box considerably. Second, they’re wide that ¾” plywood, which makes driving screws through the wall into them much easier. Third, they’re much easier to make, since all I have to do is cut them to length.
On the inside of the enclosure the limited space pretty much dictated where I can put braces. In particular, I wanted to put one more on the back wall, but there just wasn’t enough room. On the top and right side I had complete freedom, so I chose a semi-random layout.
Front panel: This the baffle plate for the driver and amplifier. It’s a double plate, primarily to make the construction of the driver baffle easier, but also to add stiffness. There’s not much room to brace the baffle, so I wanted to reduce the chances of the entire baffle moving back and forth with the motion of the driver. The double thickness will help that (2 x thickness means 8 x stiffness). In addition, the edges of the baffle are inset in dadoes all around. That essentially keeps the edges from moving at all. In addition the large holes will force the panel to vibrate in small sections. The resonant frequencies should be high.
Top panel: It’s fairly large, and only a single thickness. However, it is extensively braced.
Left panel: These are the smallest, which raises the resonant frequencies, but not as well braced as the other panels. However, it will eventually be screwed to the cabinet to the left. I don’t foresee any issues.
Right panel: This is a single thickness, but small, and very well braced. Again, I don’t foresee any issues.
Bottom: This is extensively braced with the braces connecting to the bottom of the cabinet and should have no issues.
Back. This is extensively braced with the braces connecting to the back of the cabinet and should have no issues.
Construction: I’ve attached two files. One is the plans, with comments. The second is the detailed build process, showing the various steps of the construction. As I go, I will add photos, tied to these steps.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Rythmik audio DS1510HP CI plans.pdf (98.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: pdf Rythmik SW build instructions.pdf (85.8 KB, 40 views)
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post #405 of 413 Old 12-21-2018, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by gistte View Post
Rythmik audio DS1510HP CI build
I designed and will be building the cabinet for my DS1510HP myself, so I’m going to describe that. Most of the time will be spent on the actual build. My hope is that someone who needs some additional guidance on the details of building such a cabinet can get some use out of this.
DESIGN:
This cabinet is going to be part of a wall of built-in bookshelves and cabinets, so that pretty much constrained the design to match the other cabinets. That, plus general acoustics and mechanics issues, led to the following design constraints:
Driver placement: as far as possible to the front and bottom of the enclosure while still ensuring that the driver won’t hit the speaker grill.
Back wall placement: far enough back to provide a minimum of 2” clearance to the back of the driver.
External dimensions: 36” wide x 15” deep x 24” high
External volume: 3-4 cubic feet, with 3.5 being the optimum (as provided by email by Brian Ding of Rythmik Audio).
Bracing placement: external wherever possible. Internal bracing will tend to obstruct the air flow in what will be a shallow box .
Amplifier placement. Since the speaker baffle is the only vertical surface exposed, the amplifier has to be mounted on the baffle. This means that either the amplifier is in the enclosure with the driver, or airtight connections have to be provided between the amplifier and driver, through the walls of the inner enclosure.
Materials: Nominal 3/4” plywood: cherry veneer with hardwood inner plies for all visible surfaces, and Baltic (or Russian) birch plywood for the rest.
There are two basic options for the cherry plywood. One has a layer of medium density fiberboard (MDF)underneath the cherry veneer, and the other has all wood veneers. The MDF gives a very smooth surface, but previous experience with using it for bookshelves has taught me that it’s not as stiff as all wood veneer plywood.
Many people like Baltic birch plywood for cabinets. However, I’m putting a clear finish on these, and I would have had to veneer all the exposed surfaces. That’s a lot of work. Since I have used the cherry plywood on a previous subwoofer (NHT 1259 driver in a cabinet similar to this one) with good success, I decided the benefits of using all Baltic birch didn’t justify the labor involved.
The first three attachments are the plans for the cabinet: front elevation (with the speaker/amp baffles treated as transparent), two vertical cross-sections looking from the side at the position of the driver and the amplifier, and a horizontal cross-section looking from the top at the position of one of the horizontal braces. I don’t use 3D software for my plans, so I don’t have them available for this one. I trust that the plans will make sense once we see the construction pictures, if not sooner.
Rythmik says a sealed cabinet for this driver should be between 3-4 cubic feet. Brian Ding of Rythmik told me in an email that that’s the external enclosure size, and recommended 3.5 cu ft. The external volume of this cabinet is 4.04 cu ft, larger than the optimal size. I could have made the enclosure smaller by putting the amplifier outside it, but I decided that the complications of making an airtight electrical connection were not worth it. Once I decided to include the amplifier in the enclosure, there was no practical way to make the enclosure smaller without exceeding other design constraints.
Rithmyk also says to line the walls of the cabinet with batting, which they supply with the rest of the parts. All the walls except the front will be so lined.
Bracing: Most subwoofer designers place heavy emphasis on bracing the cabinet. I agree that it is necessary for such large cabinets. However, we need to remember the purpose of the bracing. We want any resonance in the cabinet to be at a higher frequency than anything the subwoofer will be reproducing. I’ve chosen to do that by using braces that divide the various panels into sections small enough that the resonant frequencies will be high enough.
Bracing in general: I chose to use 2x4 lumber for the braces, for several reasons. First, they take up a lot of space, and I need to reduce the volume of the box considerably. Second, they’re wide that ¾” plywood, which makes driving screws through the wall into them much easier. Third, they’re much easier to make, since all I have to do is cut them to length.
On the inside of the enclosure the limited space pretty much dictated where I can put braces. In particular, I wanted to put one more on the back wall, but there just wasn’t enough room. On the top and right side I had complete freedom, so I chose a semi-random layout.
Front panel: This the baffle plate for the driver and amplifier. It’s a double plate, primarily to make the construction of the driver baffle easier, but also to add stiffness. There’s not much room to brace the baffle, so I wanted to reduce the chances of the entire baffle moving back and forth with the motion of the driver. The double thickness will help that (2 x thickness means 8 x stiffness). In addition, the edges of the baffle are inset in dadoes all around. That essentially keeps the edges from moving at all. In addition the large holes will force the panel to vibrate in small sections. The resonant frequencies should be high.
Top panel: It’s fairly large, and only a single thickness. However, it is extensively braced.
Left panel: These are the smallest, which raises the resonant frequencies, but not as well braced as the other panels. However, it will eventually be screwed to the cabinet to the left. I don’t foresee any issues.
Right panel: This is a single thickness, but small, and very well braced. Again, I don’t foresee any issues.
Bottom: This is extensively braced with the braces connecting to the bottom of the cabinet and should have no issues.
Back. This is extensively braced with the braces connecting to the back of the cabinet and should have no issues.
Construction: I’ve attached two files. One is the plans, with comments. The second is the detailed build process, showing the various steps of the construction. As I go, I will add photos, tied to these steps.
Didn't mean to quote the original post. Sorry.
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post #406 of 413 Old 01-31-2019, 02:11 PM
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hi guys,,

anyone built a front firing ported version using the DS1200 kit? would like to hear there impressions.

thanks in advance.
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post #407 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 04:52 AM
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My DS1510ci Build

Hi all,

I recently purchased the DS1510ci and the H600XL2 servo amplifier and sent them to The Netherlands since there are no european distributers that i know of.
If anyone is intrested, below are my pictures of the build.
I used v313 MDF (waterproof) and had them CNC cut to (outside) dimensions and then i used an ordinary electrical jigsaw and handrouter for the rest, so ABSOLUTLY homemade apart from the outside dimensions.

I chose to go for a seperate amp enclosure and still get the 85-115liters (3-4cu ft) or so that was needed for the driver, came out at a whopping 53x53x53cm (20.8 x 20.8 x 20.8 inch) outside dimensions.

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LG OLED 65C8PLA - Denon AVR-X7200WA +DCD-520AE
Front + Surrounds = Apogee Acoustics Ribbon Speakers: Caliper Signature (upgraded), Centaur (Upgraded), Centaur Minor
Center + Height = DIY Aria 2 MHT Center + DIY Aria MHT
Vero 4K+, DIY 2ch Hypex UcD400HG (HxR) with TR501a Coil and Hypex UCD Supply HG

Last edited by Rozz73; 06-25-2020 at 05:07 AM. Reason: typo`s...
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post #408 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 04:55 AM
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My DS1510ci Build

Continued.....
Spraypainted warnex black, but because i do not have a hvlp spraygun with pressurized cup, i could not really get the details i wanted, next time i will use a roller or get a pressurized cup, but for now i am very happy with how everything came out! this was my first time with building a sub like this.



I am REALLY impressed with the results, reason i got a sub in the first place was because the ribbons where really displacing alot at higher volume due to the low frequencies they could produce, i think the former owner did the same with result that i had to renew the ribbons because they where loose and flappy and old.

So to protect the ribbons from the lowest of low frequencies i searched for a sub, but wanted a fast sounding sub to match the ribbons, so i came across Rythmik Audio Directservo...
Cut-off now is at 80hz but my next project might be using a minidsp or something like that...but for now...i`m a happy camper as they say it.
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LG OLED 65C8PLA - Denon AVR-X7200WA +DCD-520AE
Front + Surrounds = Apogee Acoustics Ribbon Speakers: Caliper Signature (upgraded), Centaur (Upgraded), Centaur Minor
Center + Height = DIY Aria 2 MHT Center + DIY Aria MHT
Vero 4K+, DIY 2ch Hypex UcD400HG (HxR) with TR501a Coil and Hypex UCD Supply HG

Last edited by Rozz73; 06-25-2020 at 05:15 AM. Reason: typo`s...
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post #409 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 05:23 AM
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Congratulations,
the work looks prodigious and
a fine display of well organized, disciplined thought and follow thru
clean , right and tight.

as far as the minidsp is concerned,

take advantage of that discipline and get to be good with REW

DIY FAN Denon X4400 , ATI A 2000 for 7.4.6 SCATMOS Sammy 82" 4K/HDR
L/R: Fusion 15 V2 , C: 88 Special , SL/SR: 88 Special(V2) , RL/RR: F-3, TF/TR: Volt 6's TM: SLX, FH: F4Q4
SUBMAXIMUS V2, ,Submaximus V3,LOWARHORNCustom Dual Driver VBSS,2 x 6000DSP
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post #410 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 06:59 AM
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@Rozz73 - they spelled "favorites" wrong.

Just kidding, that's awesome man! I'd like to swap to a direct servo sub with my ML Motion 40's.

Martin Logan Motion 40 mains
HSU ULS-15 MK2 and SVS PC-2000
NAD T757 with AM200 audio card
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post #411 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 06:59 AM
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@Rozz73 - they spelled "favorites" wrong.

Just kidding, that's awesome man! I'd like to swap to a direct servo sub with my ML Motion 40's.

Martin Logan Motion 40 mains
HSU ULS-15 MK2 and SVS PC-2000
NAD T757 with AM200 audio card
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post #412 of 413 Old 06-25-2020, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01svtL View Post
@Rozz73 - they spelled "favorites" wrong.

Just kidding, that's awesome man! I'd like to swap to a direct servo sub with my ML Motion 40's.
Whaha, didn’t even notice it...english is not my native language, so easy to look over it, but now i can’t not see it...thanks buddy hahaha

LG OLED 65C8PLA - Denon AVR-X7200WA +DCD-520AE
Front + Surrounds = Apogee Acoustics Ribbon Speakers: Caliper Signature (upgraded), Centaur (Upgraded), Centaur Minor
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post #413 of 413 Old 06-30-2020, 05:17 PM
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Beautiful Work!Cheers to another living room theater!
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