Official Rythmik Audio DIY Subwoofer Kit thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 413 Old 05-18-2010, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post


Our finished subs have size on the lower end of the recommended range due to shipping cost. So you can use 3.5cu ft internal volume. Our recommended range is 3-4 cu ft.

Hopefully I'm understanding box volume correctly. If I calculate the interior volume of the box, allowing for internal bracing, I should end up with between 3- and 4-ft^3, right? If I understand correctly, larger box volume will result in higher output level and size isn't super critical as long as I don't go too big.

Do I need to make allowance for intrusion of the driver or amp into the box volume?

Thanks in advance!
Pete

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post #32 of 413 Old 05-18-2010, 03:28 PM
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Brian,

Thanks for the response, I am modeling up my box in CAD so I make sure everything will go together. Since I have external parametric EQ for my subs I think the better deal for me in the 300 AMP.

In this case I am shooting for a box design of 3.5 ft^3. The hardest part is determining the volume for the driver and the amp to subtract from the total box volume.

I estimated this by the cutouts you suggest on the DIY plans and got a volume for the amp of .117 ft^3 and the driver .547^3. I know my estimate for the driver is going to be on the high side because I assumed a solid object (which is not), but even if I was off 50% I will still be under 4.0 ft^3. Do you have any better #'s for the volume of the amp and driver?

Also, would it be ok to have a box that is 4.0 ft^3 and then install the the filler? I only ask because I thought I read the filler makes the box seem "bigger".

I am very excited to build my own DS1500, I just don't want to screw it up by making a box that ends up being too big.

Thanks,
Pete
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post #33 of 413 Old 05-19-2010, 06:07 AM
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Hey Other Pete [vettett15]. Want to trade CAD models?

I've build a 3d solid model based on the plans on the Rythmik site. Need to do volume calcs. I'll let AutoCAD do the number crunching. I just have to create a solid representation of the air inside the box.

Actual amp and driver allowances (cubic feet) would be helpful in my modeling.

If anyone else wants my model, PM me.

I'm stoked about building my DS1500's too. I'm going to build two right away. Already installed a DSP1124 parametric equalizer. Will be using XLR amps.

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post #34 of 413 Old 05-19-2010, 02:48 PM
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Pete,

Absolutely, you can find mine here http://www.filedropper.com/sw, this is in pro/e format, let me know if you need it in some other format. I'm at 3.55 ft^3 according to my spreadhseet and i'm almost positive that it is actually larger due to my guessing of the sub and amp volume. I figure worst case if it ends being too big I can fill the space with wood blocks.

Here is a picture of my model, i made the walls transparent so you can see inside. I think i'm going to adjust the bracing some, but I don't think i'm too far off. Comments are welcomed. In my CAD files I also laid out all of the pieces to see how I would cut up a piece of 4x8 MDF. The way I have the sizes now It's going to be close, may have to find a 4x9 sheet.
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post #35 of 413 Old 05-20-2010, 06:57 AM
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Your bracing is a lot more elaborate than mine (or the plans on Brian's site). I'm basically following his plans, just modified joints to make dimensions less critical and assembly easier.

I always design wood projects so I don't have to measure with precision. If you cut all parts that are the same size at the same time, without changing the saw setup, things fit up better. I'll have to measure to size only one dimension of some small internal bracing pieces. All the other parts need to be cut "accurately" but not "precisely". I also plan some panels slightly oversize so I can use a flush trim bit on the overhang after assembly.

I'm cutting shallow dados in many of the parts to make assembly easier. It can be a bear to juggle a bunch of panels, clamps and slimy wood glue without some way to hold things together during assembly.

I'm looking forward to getting started!

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post #36 of 413 Old 05-20-2010, 09:49 AM
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Pete,

I am newish to wood working so I am looking for any thoughts, yours were helpful. I did make sure that all the pieces were even fractions, no 7.3333" dimensions. I like the idea of cutting slots to hold things up, I was thinking about writing down how I would piece this thing together to make sure that it made sense.

I really like your idea of cutting the panels a little larger and then flush trimming them after its all done. I hadn't thought of that and I am new to a router so maybe I'll give it a shot.

Since I am cutting all these parts out of a big piece of MDF is it a good idea to use the finished edges of the big piece of mdf or does it not really matter since I have a router and can trim them easily?
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post #37 of 413 Old 05-20-2010, 12:34 PM
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A written cutting and assembly plan is helpful. It's important to cut the parts in the right order to avoid having to duplicate a saw setup.

What are you using to cut? Do you have a table saw?

I usually try to NOT use factory edges. They tend to get dinged up in handling. Sometimes they don't take glue as well a freshly cut edges.

I often rough cut a sheet of material and then make finished cuts on the smaller pieces. Much easier to wrestle a quarter sheet of MDF than the whole thing. Just be sure to end up with a factory edge on your "rough" cuts so you have a straight starting point.

Wish you were in ABQ - I'd let you use my big Delta Unisaw.

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post #38 of 413 Old 05-20-2010, 12:43 PM
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Ha, thanks for the offer Pete.

I have a circular saw, that's probably what I'll use to make the rough cuts and then clean them up with the router.

I am hoping that Lowes/Home Depot can make the really big cuts for me. Not sure if they can cut the 4x8 MDF into 2x8 or not.
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post #39 of 413 Old 05-21-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettett15 View Post

Ha, thanks for the offer Pete.

I have a circular saw, that's probably what I'll use to make the rough cuts and then clean them up with the router.

I am hoping that Lowes/Home Depot can make the really big cuts for me. Not sure if they can cut the 4x8 MDF into 2x8 or not.

Sure they will. I've never had a problem with them cutting any size for me. I usually try to go during the week when it is slower.
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post #40 of 413 Old 05-22-2010, 04:58 AM
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You were right badger, didn't realize they could turn their saw 90° and cut it length wise. He messed up one cut but I just arranged my pieces, I still think it will work. FYI I noticed that my Lowes doesn't sell smaller pieces of MDF but Home Depot does if anyone else is looking.

I started cutting all my pieces, going pretty well, I missed one dimension (supposed to be 19.5 and is now 19.375). Not a big deal I just adjusted everything to suit. Forgot how much of mess MDF made, the router with the vacuum feature is pretty nice. The flush trim bit is a must have, picked up a 1/2" cutter with a 1" cutter length at Lowes, works pretty well with 3/4" MDF.

I already sold one PSB 6i and my other one is up for sale (ebay) right now so I have to hurry.

I'll try and post pictures later.
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post #41 of 413 Old 05-22-2010, 07:30 AM
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I always just get the big sheets instead of the small since there isn't a huge price difference. It's always nice to have some spare MDF around, you just never know when you need some. Glad you got it all cut. Looking forward to the pics!
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post #42 of 413 Old 05-22-2010, 04:40 PM
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quick questions guys, I plan on screwing and gluing this box together. I'd like to put a round on the corners using the router but i'm not sure if that will make it harder to hide the screws? Are there particular screws you guys use and how to you sink them far enough down so that you have a smooth wood surface?
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post #43 of 413 Old 05-23-2010, 06:52 AM
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I'm not a big fan of using screws in MDF. Tight joints and glue will do the trick in most cases. If you don't have a ~#&* load of clamps though screws might be your only option.

I like square drive stainless steel screws. Drywall screws like to snap right below the head. I'd countersink the screws and putty the recess with bondo. Just be sure to keep the screws far enough from the edge so you don't hit them with the router bit when you do the roundover.

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post #44 of 413 Old 05-23-2010, 01:00 PM
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Yeah I don't have the clamps so looks like i'm stuck with screws. Will the screw head drive into the mdf or do I need to make a countersunk hole before I put the screw in?

Anyway, I am doing cutting all the piece parts. Couple thoughts:

1. Way harder than I thought, I would say I am ~20hrs into the project, although this is my first woodworking project.

2. Harbor freight router is awesome, Harbor Fregith/Northern Tool plastic wood clamps, ultimate suck. Please don't buy these, get some good ones.

3. Best moment: having the ice cream truck drive buy and doing the fit check on the parts and they are all good.

4. Worst moment: Saturday night, realizing its time to stop when I tried to blow some MDF dust out of the way with my mask still on....

Here are some pictures (this is just a fit check) and a link to a couple more: http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...%2015%20Build/


I was thinking about trying to get away with using these ratchet straps like you would clamps and just gluing the box together. Seems to work ok, will work on it a little more and report back, could be a cheap way of doing it.
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post #45 of 413 Old 05-23-2010, 03:00 PM
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Screws will do the trick if you dont have clamps. I would definitely recommend predrilling and countersinking. MDF tends to bulge when you drive a screw into it. The center of the panel is much softer. Surface is very hard and will be better if you countersink.

MDF dust is nasty stuff. Not my favorite material by a long shot.

You're making good progress. I'm jealous since I'm still in the virtual world.

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post #46 of 413 Old 05-23-2010, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettett15 View Post

Yeah I don't have the clamps so looks like i'm stuck with screws. Will the screw head drive into the mdf or do I need to make a countersunk hole before I put the screw in?

Anyway, I am doing cutting all the piece parts. Couple thoughts:

1. Way harder than I thought, I would say I am ~20hrs into the project, although this is my first woodworking project.

2. Harbor freight router is awesome, Harbor Fregith/Northern Tool plastic wood clamps, ultimate suck. Please don't buy these, get some good ones.

3. Best moment: having the ice cream truck drive buy and doing the fit check on the parts and they are all good.

4. Worst moment: Saturday night, realizing its time to stop when I tried to blow some MDF dust out of the way with my mask still on....

Here are some pictures (this is just a fit check) and a link to a couple more: http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...%2015%20Build/


I was thinking about trying to get away with using these ratchet straps like you would clamps and just gluing the box together. Seems to work ok, will work on it a little more and report back, could be a cheap way of doing it.

Looking good! If you have the time to run to Harbor Freight, their steel bar clamps are pretty good. I've got a bunch of them for cheap. Check the on-line price before you go. Sometimes they have sales on-line that they don't have in store. Definitely pre drill the MDF and get the screws designed for MDF if you go that route. Also, if you use screws, be very very careful if you do any routing (I think you mentioned do a round over).
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post #47 of 413 Old 05-23-2010, 07:50 PM
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Looks like the ratchet straps work pretty well holding the box together tight. I think I'm going to just glue the box together using the straps to hold it all in place. I just have to decide how I am going to get the bracing in the box and mounted to the exterior panels.
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post #48 of 413 Old 05-29-2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettett15 View Post

Looks like the ratchet straps work pretty well.....

How's the build coming along? Pictures!

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post #49 of 413 Old 05-29-2010, 06:53 AM
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Here's a question to Brian Ding (or anyone else that has experienced this). A few years ago I bought a couple of 12" LT drivers you had on sale (but not the amps). Now I'm running them in a couple of front firing sealed boxes, using a DCX2496 as the EQ/crossover, feeding a Nano Patch Plus gain control to an Aragon 8008ST amp to drive the subs. Sounding great.

I installed these with the original thick rubber gaskets on, would I get different results if I replaced those gaskets with something thinner (seems to me one of the drivers came with an alternate)?

Thank, John

Oh, yeah and these are used in a strickly 2 channel music system, not HT (I have your 15"er for that ). Now using them with Fostex single drivers, soon to be upgraded to modded Magnepan MMGs.
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post #50 of 413 Old 05-30-2010, 06:13 AM
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Pete,

I got all the box glued together except the top lid. Everything went pretty smoothly. Looking back I probably should of glued it together in stages instead of all at once but mis-alignment was nothing a big ass hammer couldn't take care of. The straps seemed to work pretty good and were a cheap solution (8 bucks @ harbor freight for 4 of them).

I'm hoping to get the driver/amp this week so I can test fit, but while i'm waiting for that I will be gluing some more edges and sealing up the box. Then I need to trim flush the edges and start sanding.

I will get some pictures up tomorrow.
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post #51 of 413 Old 06-03-2010, 09:06 PM
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Sorry for the delay guys, been pretty busy.

Here are some pictures of the box so far, gluing and sealing got kinda messy but I know the thing is sturdy and won't leak.

I need some help figuring out what feet to use, I would prefer something easy and local (home depot, lowes, etc). Any thoughts?
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post #52 of 413 Old 06-04-2010, 03:01 PM
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Got the first coat of satin black on, doesn't look too bad. Definitely could of spend some more time on prep work.
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post #53 of 413 Old 06-04-2010, 03:49 PM
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Prep is key. I'm still deciding between paint or veneer. Leaning towards paint. Good excuse to buy a HVLP spray setup.

You're making good progress. Can't wait to hear about the SOUND. Do you have the Rythmik kit yet?

Foot suggestion: How about metal door stoppers? The kind that screws into the baseboard. Might be a bit flimsy for that heavy beast though.

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post #54 of 413 Old 06-04-2010, 06:20 PM
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pete,

You are right, I guess I got a little anxious and was tired of waiting for the wood filler to dry. If I were to do it again I would use wood filler over every joint so it would look seemless.

I haven't received the kit yet, Brian said he shipped it out like last Wednesday so I should be getting it next week sometime.

Door stoppers, not a bad idea, but you may be right about being a little flimsy. I ended up getting some furniture table legs (2x2 square wood stock) from Lowes and have them cut four pieces 2.75" length (Brian's site says 2.5" but its going to be on carpet so I figured it will sink a little).

Not sure yet what I am doing yet about holding the woofer in. Either just going to use screws or bond some inserts in there. Do you guys use sealant on the screws you put in?

Still have to put in the foam that apparently comes with the kit, planning on just titebonding that in.

I'm excited to get this thing going, sold 2/3 of my subs so I need this thing.
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post #55 of 413 Old 06-12-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettett15 View Post

Sorry for the delay guys, been pretty busy.

Here are some pictures of the box so far, gluing and sealing got kinda messy but I know the thing is sturdy and won't leak.

I need some help figuring out what feet to use, I would prefer something easy and local (home depot, lowes, etc). Any thoughts?

I got some Decorative Corner type feet at Lowes(or HD I think it was lowes), they are like 5-6" tall and are corner feet, they attach to the corner of the sub and stick down as low as you like (use wood glue and an air gun finish nailer to install).

I haven't even installed them yet(Have lined them up-using it woofer facing up right now as that looks better in REW graphs in my testing), but they will work awesome when I finally do get sick of it facing up.....which is coming......

Why waste $ on more cheap stuff, it's like challenging a dragon with a pocket knife.
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post #56 of 413 Old 07-27-2010, 02:16 AM
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Hi.

My DS1200 project is starting to be finally finished. I got the flamy birch veneer on. Finishing is made by using Osmo Color wax. First layer with 1/3 oak and 2/3 of clear wax, and then 3 layers of clear oil wax.

Here's a pic of the veneered box:
Veneered

And here's pics of the finalised sub:
Finalised_1
Finalised_2

I'm not quite happy with the results, so I'll apply one more layer of clear wax and do some sanding with 800 sand paper. After that polishing and new pics...

The main speakers will be "darkened" too to match the sub color.

All the project pics can be found here.
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post #57 of 413 Old 07-27-2010, 06:55 AM
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Nice work. How does it sound?

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post #58 of 413 Old 07-27-2010, 08:13 AM
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Mårde, Very nice! Great job!
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post #59 of 413 Old 07-28-2010, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
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Nice work. How does it sound?

Thanks for the compliments.

The sound is awesome, alltough it's my first sub. I built it mainly for movie experiences, but now I find myself listening to music more often than ever before. No wonder these Rythmik subs are so hyped.

Now I have done the re-waxing and sanding. I'll probably do the polishing during the weekend. It's starting to look better now allready. More pics next week.
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post #60 of 413 Old 10-04-2010, 06:46 AM
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I'm planning to build a F15 replica to match my existing F15 in black ash vinyl finish. But what brand is most likely to match the original Rythmik vinyl? Any thoughts on the Dayton-brand available at Parts Express?
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